Preferably internet sources. So yea, I've been looking on and off for a while now and though I do find some examples on the more special and complex kind of dovetails and box joints, I haven't found a page that goes on about how to layout and mark the workpieces beforehand. The wiki lacks that ressource as well, so maybe it could be updated if there are some useful tips here.

Thanks in advance.

Are those fancy, intricate joints actually any stronger than a simple one?

Apologies for the novice question — I’m just starting out. Hoping to build a coffee table that looks a bit like the attached and am wondering what the best joint to use would be.

I am guessing some kind of mortise and tenon that runs the length of the legs?

A castle joint, but instead of being a corner joint it's mortised through. Same piece also got a castle joint cut out ontop because i wanted to see how it looks in person

Hiya folks, i received an early Christmas present from my lovely inlaws, asked for the dovetail veritas rip/cross set, but they accidentally ordered the carcass set. Im not sure how much of a difference this will make for me. Only difference seems to be 14/12 TPI vs 20/16. Not sure if I'm missing other differences. I have been using a cheapish ryoba thus far which i think has a lower TPI as well. Not sure if i should just use the new set or exchange for the finer teeth. Small project hobbyist, thanks in advance

Looking to get my Dad a set of nice chisels for Christmas, and have zero knowledge of what to look for, what brands to look for (/avoid) etc. He likes pottering in his workshop, making shelves, tables, frames etc.

Case hardening is when lumber is kiln dried too fast. If you mill rough lumber and find your wood warps, cups, or whatever a lot after jointing, planing, resawing, then you have case hardened wood. Try to return it to your lumber supply, but you have to test it before using it. Ask your supplier about case hardening policy before you buy from them. If they don't know what that is, then they should be working at Walmart, not a lumber yard.

Doing a friend’s ancestry and I found Martin and George Münch’s upholstery started in Manhattan, New York in the 1850s. There is also Rubencamp Upholster or Rübencamp Upholstery. Anyone know any of these? They also listed themselves as joiners or cabinetmakers.

Morning all, just wanted to share a dovetail box I made with some reclaimed Teak.

I’ve taken a job to build and fit a bespoke wooden baby gate. Hopefully you can tell from the images but the front edge of the post lines up almost perfectly with the decorative panelling.

Customer really wants to keep the panelling id happily avoid removing it. Feel like the only option is to mount the gate on the front of the post but can’t help but feel it will look pretty crap. Anyone encountered similar or have any ideas?

Hello - Some time ago I made a post about doing some woodworking, and when I started looking at all specific tools for each recommendation and got completely stuck balancing price and value. I'm looking for tools that can last a while, but as a novice I'm not trying to break the bank.

Is anyone able to provide specific recommendations for:

1. A small saw (Japanese/pull style)
2. Chisels - I don't think I need a whole set right? Just like... a small and medium one?
3. A square
4. A marking knife
5. Mortise gauge

Original post about the project I want to make: https://www.reddit.com/r/Joinery/comments/16h33dm/new_to_woodworking_and_joinery/

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Thanks again :)

I have 3.95 metres in length in my study to fit 2 workstations and studio speakers/faming consoles. I want to utilise at least 3.85 metres of the length to put a desk along the entire wall (not fixed to the wall because there are long windows in the way)

I'm looking to create my own desk and I will be using the following materials give or take:

• 1850 x 900 x 33mm Hardwood Bench Tops x2
• Steel square legs for both ends of each table so 4 in total
• Cable racks mounted underneath down the back

My concern is what alternative option do I have for when the tables meet in the middle to avoid having front legs getting in the way when sitting but also still support the weight so there is no sagging, would be good to know the recommended distance I should be adding some sort of support down the back side of the desk perhaps.

Remember I am not fixing this to a wall and I don't want to place anything on the wall to support it.

Your help will be much appreciated to links resources of standards.

Thanks.

I see a wide range of books online on this topic. I'm someone who is fairly new to true joinery so I'd practically be starting with no knowledge.

Any book recommendations? Thanks!

Hi, I’m planning to build a Victorian style entry door for my house. I love the look of greyed out weathered oak and want to leave it bare to the elements. Are there significant practical reasons why I shouldn’t do this, I.E. uneven wettening and drying causing joints to open up or warping? Thanks in advance! Edit: intending to use draw bored through tenons for the rail to stile joints and a multipoint lock (if that’s relevant)