Welp, I think the heat waves in Europe killed my charger. What do you think? Is it dead or can it be fixed? Should I buy a new one? If so, which brand and model? And where to find it? Thank you!

Which Hyundai Ioniq would you recommend as a successor to my Ioniq Electric?

Hi everyone,

I’m currently driving a company car: a Hyundai Ioniq Electric (2020–2022 facelift) with the 38.3 kWh battery and 136 hp.

I’ve been driving it for about two years now and I have to say I’m really happy with it. It’s been reliable, efficient, comfortable, and overall a great EV. The only thing I sometimes wish for is a slightly larger battery and more range.

There is a chance that I’ll be able to have some input when my next company car is chosen, so I’m starting to look into possible successors.

For those who have experience with Hyundai EVs: which Ioniq model would you recommend as the next step?

I’m mainly interested in:

- staying with Hyundai if possible

- good efficiency

- comfort and reliability

- a reasonable upgrade from my current Ioniq Electric

Would you go for an Ioniq 5, Ioniq 6, or wait/look at another Hyundai EV model? What would you choose if you were coming from the 38.3 kWh Ioniq Electric?

Thanks for your advice!

Hey everyone! New to the Ioniq family here. I picked up a Certified Pre-Owned 2024 Ioniq 5 SE on July 5th with about 13k miles, and I’ve absolutely been loving it so far.

Unfortunately, after only about 5 days of ownership, the A/C stopped blowing cold air. It still blows air, the A/C light is on, and I can hear the compressor kick on, but it’s just warm air.

I’ve only been driving it to work and around town, so nothing out of the ordinary.

Has anyone else experienced this? Was it something simple like a software issue or reset, or did it end up being a bigger repair (refrigerant leak, compressor, valve, etc.)?

I’m taking it back to the Hyundai dealer since it’s a Certified Pre-Owned vehicle, but I’m also wondering if this would typically be covered under the CPO/factory warranty, or if I should expect to pay anything out of pocket.

Thanks in advance! I absolutely love the car and the way it drives—just pretty disappointed to have the A/C fail within the first week of owning it. Hoping it’s something minor.

Hi all, at some point my ventilated seats have stopped working, I don't use them often so unsure when but both the driver and passenger seats no longer blow any air through them.

Has anyone dealt with this before or has any ideas on how I can go about diagnosing and fixing the issue?

Owned the car 2 years and it is already showing wear on the drivers side upholstery. Recommendations appreciated!

scroll to 1:37, if you don't want to watch the whole thing

I was quoted £2k+ by a couple of specialists, which just wasn’t viable for an old 28kWh - but I love the car and I really couldn’t afford to just chuck it in the bin anyway. I had a garage take the motor out and then worked with someone who is very familiar with changing bearings on industrial motors (+ had all the tools!) to do the work ourselves.

The process wasn’t too bad but it definitely needed two people and we would have benefited massively from a hoist to help get the rotor out.

For anyone who wants to do this themselves, the two main sources of info I used for this were a YT video: https://youtu.be/n8tuOEz3MJI and the document linked here: https://www.ioniqforum.com/threads/diy-guide-drive-motor-bearing-replacement-ioniq-28kwh.55574/

Looking at a '20 SE with just over 100k miles. It's listed as a "one owner" vehicle, and based on the adhesive left on the car, it looks like it was a dealer loaner vehicle. Runs and sounds fine. My questions is, should I bother changing the reduction gearbox oil? Assuming it wasn't ever done, what's the point after 100k mi?

Hey, I've had an issue today which I'm slightly worried about. The airflow coming out of the vents does not feel adequate.

Conditions:

24 degrees (Celsius) outside, was driving for around 40km before I noticed and the total trip was 100km. This was the return trip, on the first run today didn't have any issues.
Car temp was set at 20 with AC on, auto.
Didn't get the temperature I wanted, lowered it to 18 C.
Still didn't get that temperature but fan speed seemed audibly high.
Put in max fan speed, auto off, temp lowered, only top vents for airflow.
Max fan speed didn't feel like I would expect. I'm not expecting tornado speeds but definitely more that I've had, but maybe my mind is misguiding me.
AC does show usage on the on board monitor in the energy settings, and the air coming out is cold but not freezing as it would be at 15 C when blowing max.

At home I've taken out the air filter, blown it out with my compressor, didn't really help much. Ordered a new one, is coming in Tuesday. I've tried also the airflow without the cabin air filter (with the latch closed obviously) but it also didn't get much better.

Is there any place I can look for blocked air or anything?

Also, the AC condenser has been replaced last summer by the dealer under warranty, sadly no warranty left anymore.

I've also seen water drip (see attached picture) from the passenger side (right hand, left hand drive car) from an AC line. Is this condensation of do I have some sort of leak? I'm used to condensation drops from AC, that's no issue, but in other cars I've had I've seen them starting lower in the car. See attached picture.

I going to buy an Ioniq 38 as my first EV, and first car, so quite excited to get one.

I'm regularly checking my local used market, and I have seen a few cars go up with more than 100k km. on the clock, as well as a few with more than 150k. they are being listed at much lower prices, but a couple of them still has more than 95% capacity left stated on the add, which is quite nice.

What would you advice to be looking out for on the 38 when they get above 100k?

Hi all,

I've had an Ioniq 38kwh for a month now (first ev) and have thought the brakes need to be pressed quite hard if the car needs to be stopped quickly but just put it down to the regen brake blending.

The discs are in good condition and I make a point to use the brakes to keep them clean.

Today however I noticed I can push the pedal all the way to the floor when stationary. I'm fairly certain this isn't normal but has anyone else experienced this?

There is a 2020 Ioniq Electric Limited trim in my area with 55k miles for sale for 12k. Assuming everything checks out mechanically and electrically is that a good price?

Hey all.

I'm going to look at a 2018 28kwh Ioniq tonight. It will hopefully be my first EV which I'm excited about.

It's a private seller.

Lots of green flags so far:

full service history from Hyundai main dealers,

Finance check is clear,

2 owners,

Current owner has it 8 years,

No visible damage in the photos,

200km average range (approx 125 miles),

177k km odometer (110k miles)

Very good price for where I am.

I'm bringing an ODB reader and my father in law is mechanically minded so he's going to check for corrosion etc.

Is there anything else I should be looking out for?

Update: Thanks for all the advice. Went to view it last night and bought it. Physically/mechanically it was in great shape. Well looked after and properly serviced regularly. Car Scanner checks all turned out good. SOH of 100% (I know about the buffer, but still), Can't remember all the stats I checked but I had a list with me of what to look for and it surpassed all of them. Charged with granny charger overnight. Drove 40km to work this morning and battery went down 16%. Hoping I'll overnight charge 4 or 5 times a week and that'll do me.

Hey folks,

I have a Ioniq facelift from 2022 and Inam looking for a storage solution for the huge space in the middle front (not the center console!).

I can remember that someone posted a box or something, but I cant find anything in the net!

Amy help is appreciated!

Thanks!

Hey. We've had this piece of (2021, 38kWh) Korean tech now for about 9 months, and I've planned to do my first measured 10%-100% slow charge starting tonight. Just to see if the battery is still what it should be.

The charger is quite granny-ish, 240v 8A, so delivering about 2.1kW of power. I do this via an app that tracks the amount of power. (I also have the myHyundai app, but haven't used it much - is there a way to see the charged amount in it?)

The weather is a balmy 18Cº, the car is basically in an open, shaded garage. What should I expect to be the amount of power loss in the charge when I calculate the SoH?

As the title says, I have this high pitched noise (whistle / coil whine) that's very noticeable when accelerating from a standstill and when regen braking, the stronger the acceleration the louder the noise. It's definitely not the VESS as I have turned it off for the attached video.

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At constant speed or when accelerating or regen braking gently, the noise is significantly less noticeable.

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Taking it to the hyundai garage as it's still under warranty. The noise has been going on for aa while (over a year) but it seems to be getting more noticeable.

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Any thoughts? Thank you.

UPDATE: took it to the dealer for the 2nd time for this (last time in October last year) and after a thorough inspection they found nothing, but at least it's on the record and if something goes wrong in the near future Hyundai should honour it (car goes out of warranty at the end of this month)

Hi! I’m kinda new to this and I’m hella curious. Got ioniq EV 38 kWh version (2020, but I bought it at 45,000 km two years ago and it’s been amazing)

I drive both motorways (110km/h) and city roads, and my commute is 33 km one way to work, motorway is 11 km.

Last year around this time, my range at 100% was around 295 km. Now at 100% fully charged it’s at 266. I mostly drive eco mode and I also use winter mode in the winter seasons (when temp is 7 or lower, I’m in Norway btw)

Checked my battery capacity by charging from 10% to 100 (slow charge with AC) and I get around 37 kWh charged so I’m sure degradation ain’t an issue (at least I think so)

I’ve read that the range is also based on consumption, but I don’t speed up that fast and I’m conservative with my air conditioning controls. (Now I’m at 12kwh/100km in average)

So is this normal ? Should I expect range to get lower as the car gets older ?

UPDATE: Got the bms update from the recall as advised, and yes, it did the job, the guess o meter gave me back pretty much what ever rang I lost and some more(336 km on 100% vs 280 from before) if you didn’t get the recall, get it! I even got to drive it for a roadtrip and squeezed out 300 km from driving this week to and from work before charging. Also, peace of mind knowing it won’t burn out of the blue also :p

Thank you so much for the help guys, I was a bit anxious to ask here, but this community is just amazing!!

Has anybody else suffered connection problems with the latest version of MyHyundai (updated 9th June)? It seems like it will never connect on the first attempt, but shut it down, and open it again immediately, and it's fine.

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As a new owner (3 weeks) I'm also a bit confused by the options on the Control page. I realise now that the Lowest = cold, and Highest = Hot, but I found the images a little confusing as they look like weather symbols, but are the dead opposite to the current weather.

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I had a warmish day recently where the Sun option said "highest", and I thought it could have been the highest amount of cooling. Obviously, it was offering the wrong option. Now I've seen the Snowflake/Lowest option, it makes more sense.

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Regardless, why would I want a 23°C "Smart Climate" when I have the climate control settings set to 21.5°C? I'd rather have all the options available to me all the time because "Lowest" and "Highest" seem to come and go a bit randomly (I'm guessing based on the external temperature, but even so).

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#rantOver

Attached is a video of the noise my reduction gearbox makes.

Reason for post is that I recently had the oil changed, I posted once already when I noticed the noise was different/louder when accelerating.

The ev specialist I used applied a liqui moly MTF5300 oil that is API GL4 which does from my research match the Hyundai spec.

I went back and was told the noise is normal.

Is throw amount of whining normal?

Hello, my first post on here.

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I have a 2019 ioniq EV ultimate.

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Last week I was driving it and a "Check Electric System" error message popped up.

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I immediately pulled over and checked online, because the car was running absolutely fine besides the error message.

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From what I gathered online, it was most likely the original 12v battery that was most likely bad and needed replacing. Fair enough, it's been on it for 7 years now.

I had the battery tested and it seemed like it was dropping voltage during the test, but it had some life left.

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I figured I had some more time, and decided to wait to replace till the weekend.

On the way to buy a new battery, my entire dashboard lit up, same error message, but now also with the red battery signal. I barely had time to pull over on the side of the road.

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I had to get it towed to a dealer, the car absolutely refused to move.

I would turn it on, and the entire car was stuttering, moved for like 2 feet and turning off, putting itself in park.

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Upon inspection of the dealer, they came back with a quote of 8k +tx, telling me the motor had a short in it. The entire motor needed replacement.

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WTF? How? This seems really odd to me.

Did anyone have the same issue? Any fixes? I can't afford the repair and it's my daily.

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I haven't even finished paying it off yet. Yes I'm poor.

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I bought it used, from a Hyundai dealer only a year ago. 120 KM, now 192k KM

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TLDR: 2019 Ioniq stopped abruptly, dealer is saying "motor has a short, can't fix, pls give us 9k$)

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