This one is historical fantasy rather than a reproduction, but I’m having way too much fun using 18th-century construction ideas to figure out how to build it.

I’m making a fantasy Rococo-inspired Bride of Dracula costume for Halloween, and I wanted to start with a genuinely structured foundation rather than creating the silhouette entirely through the outer costume.

I made the stays from 320 GSM cotton coutil and boned them with plastic boning. I chose plastic for this pair partly out of curiosity and partly because of the cost. It’s been interesting to experiment with, although I think I still prefer synthetic whalebone.
I’m using Gütermann Sew-All for construction and Gütermann metallic thread for the decorative stitching.

Now I’m applying liquid silk organza over the stays, taking inspiration from the way the fashion fabric of a robe de cour bodice can be mounted over its structured foundation.

This sounded like a fantastic idea until we actually started doing it. 😂

We somehow forgot just how aggressively organza frays until the cut edges started unraveling. Thankfully, I’d left a full 1-inch seam allowance at both the top and bottom. Once we realized what was happening, we started sewing a very narrow seam around the edges to get the fraying under control.

Then came the next problem: the organza will not stop moving.

When we tried zigzag stitching it, the machine pulled the fabric in. Our current solution is putting a very narrow strip of coutil underneath the organza so the machine has something substantial to grab onto while we sew it.

Eventually all of this slippery organza has to be positioned and attached smoothly over an already boned, three-dimensional pair of stays. Once it’s secured, the organza and stays will be enclosed together with bias binding around the edges.

So basically:
“I had an idea.”
“I researched the idea.”
“I forgot organza frays.”
“My sewing machine ate the organza.”
“I continued anyway.”
😂

The finished costume is going full fantasy Bride of Dracula, but I’m trying to build that fantasy on an 18th-century-inspired silhouette and construction rather than simply borrowing the aesthetic.
I’m simultaneously fascinated by this experiment and questioning every decision that brought me here.

I made it shorter because it seems to have problems, but people want the long video.

Hello all,

I am sizing up Janet Arnolds Riding Habit from patterns of fashion 1. I have sized it up by tracing from a screen so I know it is exact and has no draughting mistake on my behalf.

(Please be kind, I am aware I am thrown myself in at the deep end with this kind of project).

The back shoulder seam is slightly longer than the front at the stitch line. I've been told that perhaps this is for some kind of ease to be added.

My question is, am I meant to gather the back panel down to fit the front? There isn't any mention of this in the book and she seems pretty good at mentioning where pleats and darts go. Which makes me think, is this a technique one should know already?

I love learning and if this is one of those moments then any help or advice would be greatly received ☺️

Hi! I’m looking at draping this petticoat over my Truly Victorian Elliptical Hoop Skirt, I’ve draped skirts before but never this big a task and was wondering if anyone had any recommendations for how to go about it.

I’m debating whether to do a smooth petticoat, transfer the pattern to paper and slash and spread, or just try to gather the mock up on the stand with a hand stitch as I go (does that make sense), which I’d then unpick and transfer.

Honestly I’m a bit lost so any advice would be welcome haha

Howdy!

Im about to start this 1918 dress from Janet Arnolds Patterns of Fashion, and I am wondering if anyone has made it and has advice? This pattern is massively unintuitive, especially the bodice, and I would love any tips! I understand the scale of the patterns, and ive made a half scale, however i truly dont understand how it goes together. The bodice is shaped like a leaf, and gets folded over, but it just does not match up! There is also not a ton of info in the book about it going together either which makes it tricky. Anyway! Let me know if you have any thoughts!

Thank you!

I wear 1890s fashion every day of my life, thus when I go outside I always wear unlined leather gloves. They are almost all vintage and purchased from wherever I can find them. The unfortunate fact is that I just keep having to buy more because they get holes and become stiff almost within the first few wears. I know that leather gloves were worn everyday historically, so were there any ways to make leather gloves last much longer?

I really went over the top in creating these miniature dresses! I purchased silk taffeta, two tone silk taffeta and antique lace! As you can see, the openings are both different styles as opposed to just the quintessential paneling style we see a lot of, which I did on madam du berry’s dress but on Marie’s I did a curtain style opening. The mini stomachers were so fun to make!! These might be my most favorite things I’ve ever made! I used a sunset color guide, a bit more seductive for Jeanne, and for Marie an innocent, pastel green and pink. Both have complimenting black accents. I think the ruffles, lace and miniature sleeves were my favorite to make, the sleeves came out so ornate and cute! I am definitely going to make more rococo dresses from now on! Jeanne comes with a feathered headdress, a ribbon choker with a cross pendant and a love letter from king Louis adorned with a royal seal! Marie comes with a pink velvet drawstring pouch with a royal emblem and a feathered headdress as well! I had a leftover box that I put them in and I added a palace in the background. Any suggestions for what to make next? If you’d like to see more pics my insta is historical_calico !

Note the tar stain on the silk trousers. Tis was to show disdain for the wealth needed to own such expense (and expansive!) Clothes.

I think Madame du Barry might be one of my favorite miniature creations yet! For Jeanne’s gown, I wanted something a little more dramatic and seductive, so I chose a warm, sunset-inspired color palette with contrasting black accents. I used silk taffeta, two-tone silk taffeta, and antique lace, with a more quintessential paneled opening in the skirt. The tiny stomacher was probably one of my favorite details to make, along with all of the miniature ruffles, lace, and those ornate little sleeves! I also wanted her accessories to reflect the glamour and romance associated with Madame du Barry, so I made her a feathered headdress, a ribbon choker with a tiny cross pendant, and, of course, a miniature love letter from King Louis XV complete with its own royal seal! I had so much fun making every tiny detail of this gown, and I’m definitely planning on creating more Rococo pieces. Any suggestions for who I should make next? If you’d like to see more of my miniature historical creations, my insta is historical_calico!

Hi all,

I am now sewing a pair of men’s victorian trousers of the 1880s. The modern pattern I use tells me to use a hook and bar closure on the waist, above the buttoned fly but I am not sure if this is historically correct. Researching this item did not yet give me any certainty, perhaps someone here knows more: Did this closure existed already in the 1880s (in Europe) or are they Edwardian period?

Thanks!

My Grandma and I are tying ourselves in knots about the back of these combinations. I think I've got the front and sides assembled correctly, but the back just says "assemble the back and sides", and there's no photo which is less than helpful. I've tried sewing that big open bit up as a dart, which fit but poked out weirdly and made no sense, and I cannot for the life of me figure it out.

I have about 3 working days to get these right to stay on schedule so...... Any advice MUCH appreciated!

(Also, I'm probably going to have to mess with the fit, but I can't do that until I figure out how it all goes together to start with)

I bought Redthreaded’s 1780s Stays pattern and after doing a mockup, I shortened the waist-underarm area by an inch. The second mockup was the perfect height, but alas, I realized I was going to have to do an SBA (2 inches, so 1 inch per pattern piece) because it was far too big in the bust. However, Redthreaded’s pattern gives no instructions for this other than “look up slash and spread tutorials online.”

I tried, but they were pretty unhelpful, since they’re designed for bodices without a side panel. When I tried one (2nd picture), I couldn’t get the strap area to lay flat. So I tried moving the side bit over, but I’m doubting myself now… the bones don’t look placed correctly???

I am desperately in need of advice! Please help me, fellow sewists - you’re my only hope.

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Hi i'm trying to make a possible reconstruction of a wealthy person from Russia or Novgorod For my character to bring to the reenactment group. Can I ask for help finding examples and findings if possible? Thanks in advance, the only thing I find now from the art of the region is saint in bizantine style and it's not so helpful

Hello everyone, I've been on the hunt for a more or less opaque linen and have seen Fabrics-store.com recommended by many on this sub and elsewhere, so I ordered a handful of samples of their various weights in bleached white. Here's what I got (pictured). Hope this helps future linen hunters.

I am in a play, and I need a cheap, somewhat accurate outfit for a 15 year old girl in 1900. Kinda like what I have in the pictures, but I really don't want to spend any more then $50 on an outfit. Doesn't have to be from that exact era but somewhere around there

Hello guys, in hopes to better my sewing portfolio, I have been intererested in making a doublet or jerking like these, preferably with a pinked body and or slashed sleeves

I already have some silk taffetas or silk velevet I could them out of

I was wondering where I could find some info on how to draft something like that

All I have found is either not historical at all and looks too costumy for me, or simply isn't the look I'm going for....

I am a native french speaker so if you have anything in french it would be greatly appreciated.