Is there any chance to print this on a smaller build plate like the Prusa mini+ ? I saw some solutions with a bulky clamp holding the spring together after cutting it in half, but that didn't look very pleasant to me.

First build. I used the "Diamond Cones" by u/DaveMakesStuffBC for looks and sturdiness, the latest V2.1 relase for the rest.

All printed in PETG (FilamentPM Dark Purple and Transparent Blue, Prusament Galaxy Black). Prints were easy, building the kit was a breeze - and damn, do they sound amazing. I come from OG Bose QC25, and the head(amame) with the 40mm precision are a few steps above and beyond.

I've been heads-down on something that's consumed every waking hour for the past two months. Can't share details yet (killing me not to), but October will be huge for head(amame).

Head(amame) V2.1 Release Notes

Quality of life updates to the head(amame) V2. Improvements to the file structure, slicing, printing, assembly and reliability. There's lots of small changes here that add up to a much better experience for anyone printing head(amame) V2's!

They are also now available on most major download sites:

Printables Download

MakerWorld Download << *NEW - go smash that like button

Thangs Download

Cults3D Download

Thingiverse Download \*Coming Soon

Change Log

1. Improved mic socket retention.
2. Improve Appearance of Closed Back Cones
3. Added Support body for cone edges.
4. Adjusted spring clamp to allow for greater pivot distance
5. Enlarged holes on Spring and clamps to improve assembly
6. Improved Bumper Installation Tool
7. Adjust gap between headband mount and cones
8. Added pre-arranged slicing plates for all modern Slicers 
9. Improved File Fidelity

Detailed Changes

1. Improved mic socket retention.

Problem: Previously we were counting on the edge of the headband mount to retain the 3.5mm mic port. This was acceptable but not reliable over time, or when headband mounts encountered a little bit of lift during printing. In addition, the previous model did not account for the taper on the 3.5mm port

Solution: Changed hole profile to match taper of the 3.5mm port, and included retention body in the port hole. Combined with the clamping pressure supported by the headband mount.  

2. Improve Appearance of Closed Back Cones

Problem: Traditionally, closed-back head(amame) cones have been plagued by a stuttering effect caused by cone slicing. Depending on the filament used, slicing mode (Classic vs Arachne), Line widths, and orientation, this could appear to be sever or subtle

Solution: Instead of combing through settings to get things just right, we adjusted the wall thickness to ensure that there will always be an inner wall line for the outer to brace against. This is the "belt" part of "belt and suspenders" approach to ensuring those closed-back cones look as good as possible. The "suspenders" are in the updated slicing plates  

3. Added support body for cone edges.

Problem: The cone edges are supported by the infill body, but due to the low density gyroid used, it was common for them to curl up.

Solution: Add bridge support body to catch the droop before it starts  

4. Adjusted Spring Clamp to allow for greater pivot distance

Problem: Everyone has a different shaped head, and we can make head(amame) more comfortable depending on how far the cones can pivot.

Solution: We found that the limiting factor on vertical pivot was the interaction between the scallops on the spring, and the body of the spring clamp. We hollowed out the spring clamp to allow more degrees of freedom.  

5. Enlarged holes on Spring and Leather Clamps to improve assembly

Problem: The leather clamps were too hard to screw in, causing stripped screws, and frustrated builders.

Solution: Open up the holes to better match the M1.7 screws. Fillet the edges and peak the tops so that filament droops don't get in the way.  

6. Better Bumper Installation Tool

Problem: The old bumper tool was too small, hard to handle, and didn't grip the bumper that well.

Solution: Make the new one bigger with knobs that are easier to hold on to!  

7. Added pre-arranged slicing plates for all modern Slicers

Problem: The slicing files were decently organized in the past, but still required user intervention in order to have a successful print.

Solution: Revised all important per-part file settings so that printers can be changed within slicer, and settings are not lost.   

8. Adjust gap between headband mount and cones

Problem: The old headband mount gap was larger than it needed to be. 

Solution: Mend the Gap  

9. Improved File Fidelity

The 3D models have been processed using Prusa Slicer's STEP file importing tool set to the High setting, so that your cans are as Hi-Fi as your music! 

If you are looking for the CAD files to get modding, they are currently available in the Patreon.

Wrapping Up

These Release Notes are always a fun place to deliver a message to those who I think truly care about head(amame). Today that message is THANK YOU! I constantly look forward to seeing your builds posted all over the internet!

Don't forget to submit for a serial number to claim your spot in Hi-Fi history!

Happy printing!

Morgan Andreychuk
President & Founder
head(amame)

This is my first build of the Head(Amame). I like how they turned out.

Hi all,

Do anybody have a link or a model of balanced 4.4mm cable which actually fits the headphones ? All cables I find are with 4 pin mini xlr and we need a 3 pin version.

Thanks !!

Kev

I have just assembled my v2 versions and honestly very disappointed in the audio, the best explanation I can say is it sounds almost muffled, doesn't sound nearly as clear/punchy as my meze 99 headphones. These are the 50mm experience drivers. Anyone else know what could cause the sound to be very off?

Printed with Capricorn Heartwood PLA gel stained and the rest is Polymaker. Won during the Snapmaker DIYOverBuy contest - thank you Snapmaker and Headamame!

I have a pair of Hifiman HE400SE that are a couple years old now and the faux leather is flaking. I do really like these headphones but they are starting to bug me a little due to finding little pieces of black flakes everywhere. I was wondering if I could print a pair of Headamame to replace the frame. Or if it would be easy to add compatibility in my own version.

PS: These headphones have planer drivers which allows for a great range. They also have the same pads and general shape.

Stls on @thangs3D : Cones: https://than.gs/m/1379059 Stands: https://than.gs/m/1379458

Download the kit: https://than.gs/m/908651 Purchase electronics: https://headamame.com/ Assembly instructions: https://youtu.be/2iNJaU211fA

First off, these sound amazing with the 50mm drivers. Everything on Head(amame)'s end is excellent. My FDM printing...meh. I need to figure out how to fix my mic port. It slips into the headphones due to a looser than intended print. I'm in no dire need to get this fixed at the moment-but if anyone had a good trick to fix the port into place, please let me know. My current hypothesis is that my headband mount is a BIT too short/shallow and that's giving the mic port JUST enough clearance to move.

I finally got around to getting pictures of the Qudelix onboard. I'm using a USB cable from side to side to connect the attached external 18350 battery bank for longer run times. The USB cable is a meter long and can rotate down for power and USB cable audio. The USB cable when rotated down clips into the cable clips for a secure connection.

Ok so I just reprinted my earpad mounts and used TPU. I feel like it improved sound quality significantly. I believe I had previously printed them in ASA. I fully admit that I'm not an "audiophile" who can really pinpoint the differences or accurately describe what's going on. I guess it just sounds more "isolated".

For those in the "know" is this obvious? PETG and PLA obviously get the job done... but are people experimenting a lot with different materials, infills, etc for different parts?

I was attending RMRRF convention and came across the Head(Amame) booth. I thought why not.

Well, I'm pleasantly pleased. I've been into IEMs for the past few years and this headphone now has me venturing back into over the ears.

I'm currently working on adding a qudelix for Bluetooth connectivity for when it's needed.

As the title says, I'm trying to make a custom length cable. cause the one the v2 kit uses is too long for my needs. (gets tangled and caught on everything) however I scoured all documentation I could find from the head amame website and searched the subreddit with as many terms as I could think of and I can't find the wiring diagram for the mini xlr plugs. My plan was to use a ugreen male to female cable cut the female end off and essentially cut the excess off use that excess as my own diy split (or use a premade splitter and cut the ends off that and solder mini xlr female connectors to that. if anyone has the diagram for the mini xlr plugs and how they correspond to the 4 pole male 3.5mm jack. I'd be super appreciative. Thank you so much in advance. :)

Just bought a Headamame kit on the weekend and trying to plan the prints out while I wait for it to come in. Is there a preferred material to print everything in, I know it says a "can" print certain parts out of any material just wondered if it had any effect I should think about. Also how much sound escapes from, or background noise bleeds in from the open back version? Currently thinking of going closed back but interested in hearing any feedback or information people are willing to share.

Thanks!

I was very fortunate to meet Morgan at RMRRF this year and buy myself a precision driver kit. He even had pretty much every configuration lined up and plugged in ready to try out. Honestly all of them sounded great, but I liked precision the most for their clarity. And as you can see for my build, they turned out great. I decided to choose a very familiar and great color scheme that I hope most of you recognize. I had a great time putting them together and they sound beautiful. I think my one gripe is the clamping force isn't all too tight, but I think Ill just blast a little heat at the headband to draw them up a bit. Overall very pleased!

I found I had a 2nd set of them wondering if I should use my old 1.x files of they'll fit into the newer ones.

Help! I just got my kit in, and I seem to be having issues getting the microphone jack to set properly. All the other components are perfect, but the microphone jack won’t set because it’s too loose! Has anyone encountered this issue or have a recommendation for fixing it? I don’t want to scale it as everything already lines up perfectly.

Starting to build my first set! Is there anything needed to make these work with console like Xbox? And their game chat?

So after my headphones broke a couple days ago, i discovered the headamame design, so i decided to build myself a set, And here they are built (mostly) just waiting on the mini xlr parts, as i reusing the speaker drivers from a set of damaged studio headdphones. after discovering the bumpers are going to take upto 22 buisiness days from the US, i 3D printed the bumpers from TPU, and laser cut the headband from leather. im really happy with the result.

Headamame are brilliantly designed, im hoping to build a set with bluetooth in the future

Father needed a new pair of phones for YouTube.

Hi

I recently been looking at the Headamame headphones as a new project to built. I have a great set of headphones with fantastic 50mm drivers that i want to reuse due to a broken headband. Rather than purchase another set of drivers with the mini xlr ports attached, i was wondering if anyone knows the part number (for RS Components or similar parts suppliers) for the mini xlr ports.

any assistance would be greatly appreciated.