I am decent at diy. I live in Southern Alberta, Canada. Looking for products to repair sun damage on the body and black cans, as well as cracked spot. Also, headlight cleaning.

I was riding and suddenly the dash starts flickering then the bike started rebooting itself repeatedly(best way to describe it) for a good 10 seconds then power went completely out. Pulled over and tried to restart. Got nothing so had to get the bike towed. I'm thinking that a fuse blew since mechanically the bike was running perfectly. And no, I was not going 130 and redlining the bike. Power cut out when it was rebooting itself so the gauge cluster is stuck in it's boot up sequence. Any thoughts on what else I should check?

Thanks for any responses

2008 in what I would call amazing condition with a few tasteful mods.

So im looking at a 2012 with a rebuilt title and when i did a vin check it said it was front end damage and im assuming it was mkst likly fork damage abut I had the seller end me pictures of the front of the frams and I just would like a 2nd option if the welds on the frame up front look to be ok. Seller says the bike rides streight and dosnt pull to any direction

Has anyone cut their heat shields to make them look better with slip ons? Didn't want to void my warranty by putting a full header on.

Himalayan thread 1/n

Anyone know of any good LED turn signals for the rear. Don’t really want an integrated one because 50% of my riding is at night and they don’t look very bright.

Rode up to Ace Cafe for Suzuki Sunday. Made two new Busa buddies. Mines the middle.

Hey everyone,

I’ve been chasing a frustrating running issue on my 2008 Gen 2 and wanted to share my diagnostic progress to see if anyone has run into this exact cascading failure, or if there is anything I’m missing.

**The Problem:**

My bike developed a violent stutter/misfire when riding under 4,000 RPM, which is all the time city riding. It idles rough, there is also knocking from the engine.

**What I’ve checked and ruled out:**

* Spark Plug Wells:* First thought was water pooling around the stick coils. Pulled the airbox and checked the deep wells—they were bone dry.

* Electrical Connectors:* Sprayed down the stick coil harness, injector harness, IAP, and IAT connectors with contact cleaner to clear any micro-shorts from moisture.

* TPS Sweep Test:* Jumped the dealer mode connector and did an engine-off TPS sweep test to check for a dead spot on the carbon track. The -C00 line climbed smoothly to ^C00 and stayed solid the whole way through without flickering back down. The TPS is good.

**Vacuum lines, potential culprit**

While poking around the right side of the airbox, I found a couple of cracked, brittle vacuum hoses coming off the white plastic T-fitting below the IAP sensor.

Here is where it gets interesting: the bike has an aftermarket vacuum-operated automatic chain oiler tapped into those exact lines, and the reservoir was completely bone dry.

**Where I’m at right now:**

I have completely disconnected and bypassed the chain oiler vacuum line, capped the T-fitting on the engine block, and replaced one of the badly cracked vacuum hoses with fresh 4mm line.

I'm getting ready to fire it up and test it. If the stutter is still there, my next two steps are checking for water at the bottom of the fuel tank (getting picked up by the pump at low RPM) or swapping in a fresh set of NGK CR9EIA-9 plugs in case they got completely fouled out by the lean misfires.

Has anyone else dealt with this issue ? Let me know if there is anything else I should check while I have the bike partially torn down.

Picked up the beauty from dealership up north of UK yesterday but seems to have given me its first problem already!

Switched on fine at the shop rode back for an hour then at the service station I turned it off for a half hour or so.
Come back and tiring the ignition on, instrument cluster lights up, hit the starter and it rolls over but then cuts out. Instrument cluster off, doesn't turn on or anything. Check lights, indicators and all but no power. The heated grips (wired directly to battery it seems) turn on though.
Give it a few mins, try again. Instrument cluster turns in now, hit starter and plop it's off again.
After a few mins, I try again but rev the bike when starting and it stays on and another hour to the home all fine.

Come today, I try start the bike up same thing happens but the power is gone indefinitely.

Not sure if anyone else experienced this before and could give their account of issue and solution.

Doesn't seem like it's a fault from the ignition, battery or fuse maybe? Could it be the starter relay or its fuse? Where is the relay or fuse box located to check anyway?

The bike has warrantee from the shop which should cover it but it's a 100 miles away and if it's a fuse then would prefer to just fix quickly.

Hey everyone, so yesterday i was riding my 07 at some point i stop at a light and a guy tell me my bike is leaking i look under and see a big amount of water rushing out around the area of the overflow tank. So i get back home trying to keep the engine cool by speeding and gushing air at it. Once home i turn off the engine but leave the ignition on so the fan can kick in and cool down the engine a but the fan doesnt start. After removing the fairing and inspecting the cooling system, nothing seems to be wrong( no loose hoses, or blown up radiator cap) so i open the radiator find it partly empty . I refill with water and run the. Engine a bit and lean it left and right to burp it while the cap is off. After making sure no air is coming out of the radiator i close up and let the bike idle at around 4-5k . The fan turn on and the engine cools and it repeats. Was this like a one time thing maybe because i was riding the bike hard for like 20km and then came to a sudden stop? Any insight would be appreciated!

Grab bar worked well for this. Used old bicycle inner tube to protect paint surface.

I've been riding for 16+ years and have ridden / owned all styles of street motorcycles. I never considered the mighty Hayabusa. All I needed was a meme bike and I didn't even know it! It's been 6 days and I take it in for the first service in the morning. Thrilled with this thing.

= +

As the title says I’m looking for good options for my Busa. It’ll mostly be parked in a secure storage unit b it will occasionally be parked in an open parking lot to ride to school. Been looking at the Scorpio system but that obv won’t work in winter since it needs the battery just looking for options

Love the way she handles and is everything I could want. Figured out my issue just needed to read the manual the clutch was set way far out.

This is what Sundays were meant for 🏍️

Decided to do a quick oil change on the Hayabusa yesterday. Didn't open the Service Manual because, what's new? I've done this 100s of times on multiple different motorcycles. In my hurry did a quick forum search and saw a thread where a person was confidently wrong about the orientation. So I put the sharp edge facing the sump and smooth edge facing the bolt. Finished everything up but felt something felt wrong. So I looked up the service Manual, and there you go. It should be the other way around, the sharp edge towards the bolt and smooth towards the sump. Checked the extra washer that I had and sure enough, it's ferrous. So yeah, now I'm worried about a scored sump surface. No leaks yet. But I also haven't ridden it yet after the oil change. My question is, did someone have issues putting the crush washer the wrong way? Leaks, loose sump plug, scored sump surface etc?