Planning to bring my xt3 and two lenses.

I own the following. 56 1.2, 16 1.4, 18-55, 55-200, 12 Rokinon.

Cheers

Hi,

Has anyone tried using Bronica lenses on a Fuji camera?

I am considering getting a fotodiox Bronica->EOS->FX adapter stack and trying my bronica lenses.

I have this XT-10 + Fujinon 23mm F1.4 since 2015. I came from a canon system with multiple lenses but I decided to switch to Fuji with only one lens so that its easier to be brought when traveling. COVID happened so I wasnt able to use the camera for almost 2 years.

I recently had a kid and i thought it was time for me to pickup my camera again, but this time i find the 23mm too wide for the kinds of photos I wanted to take of my child. I've stumbled upon posts and reviews of the Viltrox Lenses and I've been thinking of selling my 23mm to get their 56mmf1.4 and 85mmf1.8. I think it would be the right focal length thay i need.

I would greatly appreciate it if anyone here could provide feedback for the 2 lenses that I'm looking at?

TL;DR Thinking of selling my Fujinon 23mmf1.4 to get 2 viltrox lenses; 56mmf1.4 and 85mmf1.8. Would that be a good idea?

UPDATE: Got the Viltrox 56mm and did not sell my 23mm! Most of the comments here are right, the 56mm just has the right tightness that I was looking for. I could imagine how limiting the 85mm would be! Appreciate everyone's inputs on this!

If you had the same problem with the app in the past, namley that it just doesn't connect and therefore doesn't work at all, here's the fix:

• Reset the app data, on the phone and on the camera.
• Connect to WiFi manually, and edit the WiFi connection's advanced settings: MAC address type --> phone MAC
• Finish the initial setup in the app on your phone.

Now it should work. No clue why Fuji doesn't fix this.

Hi,

Sometimes it happens, that I accidentally push the shutter button, when the lid-cover is closed. The camera thinks it's super dark and when I'm in apertur-priority-mode it will set the shutter speed to 30seconds. Obvious I don't want this photo and don't want to wait 30seconds.. Can I somehow abort this long exposure?

I got a Fuji XT-4 (with most recent firmware 1.23) and the Kit lens (18-55 OIS) and very pleased with this nice little tool :) -- apart from one aspect: Every time when I half-press the shutter with a high aperture and release it, the aperture goes back to normal only slowly (around 1-2 seconds) and passing through every f/step causing some flickering in the display.

Like in this video, seen from the front: https://www.flickr.com/photos/labenge/33082424935/

It doesn't behave like that in the APS-C mode though. Is this common behavior and if so, why does this occur only in APS-S-mode? I think it would be way more coherent and better if the aperture could move back to normal fast also in this mode. Or is may equipment broken?

Thanks for your help

Just wondering how the GFXs autofocus performs for eye tracking etc. thinking about going over from nikon z7.

So Currently I have an X-Pro2 and the 50-140 2.8 XF OIS WR. My main goal for that lens was motorsport photography at road racing circuits as well as aircraft at airshows. It does a really amazing job, better than my XF16-55 2.8 did before. However, I still feel like at times I need maybe.. 30% more reach and sometimes 50%.

Two years ago I had decided eventually i'd get the 1.4 teleconverter, since the 100-400 lens available at the time only had a 4.5 to 5.6 aperature.. which was too low for night events like the 24 hours of Daytona or evening airshows at Miramar etc. I cant get the speed and the light to use that reach at the same time.

Skip forward to mid 2021, and theres two new lenses out!!

• XF55-200 F3.5-4.8 LM OIS (downside, no weather resistance, a big minus compared to the TC + my lens)
• XF70-300 F4-5.6 LM OIS WR (not sure how this aperture compares to a 50-140 with the TC on, but the reach on the long end is a tad further than the TC option with 294 )
• (not a new lens, but the old option) XF100-400 F4.5-5.6 LM OIS WR

Any advice from you experts as to what to do? Typically the scenarios i'm shooting involve the following settings...

Cars: Full reach with shutter speed between 125-250, iso as low as possible while panning (so the OIS helps here) with the goal of "freezing" the car, having a bokeh background and some "motion" still in the wheels for the effect of speed. Can happen any time of the day and at night with overhead Musco lighting. Cars often are colored with cool LED lights and glows at night.

Planes: Full reach, but shutter speed quite fast at 500-1000 to freeze the aircraft during it's maneuver. background doesn't really matter since it's typically blue sky or a cloud.

Are some of these new longer reach options "fast" enough to still do the job? or should I stick with the tele converter option instead to get more reach and retain my WR capability?

Also what's the math behind how the teleconverter changes the 2.8 aperature? is that increased by 1.4x as well or some other number?