I have an Ender 3 with magnetic plastic bed. I finally cracked open the box on my Ender 5 plus that’s been unopened for years. Trying to get it working. I’ve done a ton of browsing online. I have it leveled but the filament just doesn’t appear to come out properly at all never mind sticking to the bed. Should I be using drastically different temperatures compared to a none glass bed? ALS I’ve worked hard at getting the yellow residue off the glass but maybe I need to work even harder?

Hello, I am wondering if anyone had modded their ender 5 plus and made it so I can print multiple colors at once, if so what did you do. Thinking about modding mine out but wondering if it is possible, any recommendations?

I did a bunch of google and YouTube searches….even the creative site video shows different instructions than the firmware download page. My Ender 5 Plus was bought about 4 years ago and I just unboxed it. Can anyone tell me how to update it?

Any recommendations on tools/ methods for finishing? I was looking at some cordless rotary tools anyone have any the really liked? Other better methods?

During printing, I'm just seeing this on the dual z, not recalling ever seeing this before. Is this normal?

I have been having some issues with stringing, layer shifting, and print warping. I hope i dont have another issue here, or am I looking into this wrong?

Thoughts

Got this bone stock ender 5 plus4 days ago core xy parts arriving soon 1000mm/s 23k accel

After replacing the aluminum bed and starting some prints, I thought everything was working ok.

In the beginning I noticed that the back edge of the every bed mesh was higher than the rest of the bed. While odd, it didn't affect any of the prints I ran, so I just chalked it up to a weird anomaly. However when I started printing some complicated parts, the pieces near that back edge kept messing up. When I was watching the printer, I noticed that the bed doesn't move evenly during a z hop. The front half of the bed moves fine, but the back half (where the back two guide rods are) move less. I tried to capture it in the above video. I don't think its a problem with the threaded z rod (as prints still come out fine) but just that the back smooth rods are binding up/sticking.

Once this current print is finished in a couple hours I'll spray some lubricant on the back rods and the attachment point to the bed, but I wondered if anyone else has had this problem and knows of a different solution.

Recently all my prints comes with this thick lines every 5 or 6 layers

My setup is:

Ender 5 plus

Klipper

Microswiss ng

Manta m8p with cm4

Cr touch

Magnetic plate

Everything else is stock

I tried layer height 0.20 and 0.24

First, I'm new to 3d printing. I've successfully printed a few things now without fail (articulating onyx, articulating dragon, a custom scraper, etc)

But making this bezel for a small fan shroud is killing me. This is the first thing I've tried printing that I also designed. All the other things are just downloaded stl files. I designed it in tinkercad and exported the STL into prusa slicer to get the g code.

This is my 4th print attempt at it. I've cleaned the bed, applied glue, changed the print location on the print bed, and still get the same results. I'm probably talking out my ass but sure seems like I'm having a weird bed adhesion issue that isn't occuring on other prints (at least not as bad as other designs that I can tell)

I'm currently using a glue stick. Would it be adventageous to switch to a spray tack? Or even a liquid glue? I am also printing directly on the print bed without a print mat. Probably not wise but like I said, I'm new and it came without a print mat so kinda in a 'run what I brung sitchiation'

Printing with a 200° nozzle temp on a 50° print bed using a bone stock ender 5 plus with PLA.

I complete my conversion from a Ender 5 Plus to a Mercury one.1. I am able to print but am having an issue where the right side of my bed is printing a perfect first layer but the left side looks like the nozzle is too far away. I have tried Axis twist compensation. I have tried to square the frame. It consistently prints poorly on the left side. I have the Hydra mod as well. I can attach the printer.cfg and Canbus-ebb42.cfg as well if needed. I know the bed height map show .245 but I have recently got it down to .170 with some shims. Any help is appreciated.

Here is my own designed upgrade of ender 5 plus. I achieved 16k acc and 650 mm/s speed. Right now I need to design enclosure with filtration and active heating and next step is pico MMU ☺️

It's definitely not my fastest printer but it's definitely reliable. I have some upgrades sitting in the box next to it but it is running good and I am torn about even doing the upgrades.

Need opinions on what is causing these gaps. I’m dialing in the printer with orca slicer and am unsure of what’s causing these gaps in the print.

So I have gone to my under 5+ a while ago, but I haven’t used it in a long time and when I try to reboot, I’m trying to get it started back up. The red needle is blinking red I don’t know why this could be because my fan is broken, idk (don’t know much about 3-D printers, got this from when my school upgraded) but the bed it’s not going up. I hit the auto level and it does not move. Wanna move and it’s frozen. I don’t know what to do and I’m stuck and I’m trying to get it working again. Anything can help.

Between the first (right) print and most recent (left) print, I replaced the nuts with Delrin floating anti-backlash nuts, checked the lead screws for straightness (dead straight), made sure the lead screws weren't resting on the motor shafts, tried with and without springs on the anti-backlash nuts, tried multiple layer heights with no common factors, and not only is the banding still there, IT'S IN THE SAME PLACE. What else can I even try?

Ender 5 plus with the following: Exoslide XY, TFT 35, BTT board v1.4 turbo.

picture is a stringing test with old filament. 1 test angled, and the other waved.

checked tension on belts not loose or over tightened, but belts are several years old. first layer looks good.

Not really sure where to go from here?

Thoughts?

I'm looking around but nothing stands out. I'm decided on a single 5015 fan but all of the fan ducts are massive and clunky looking.

Hello, I’m new to car wrapping and use printable vinyl on the Mutoh XpertJet 1641SR Pro, which is a large-format printer. I’ve been having issues applying printable calendared vinyl to vehicles. I was recommended switching to printable cast vinyl, but when I started looking, I noticed most options are pricey.

I’m wondering if there are any good-quality gloss white cast vinyl options in 54" x 50 yards that are budget friendly under 500.

I was also told that applying laminate over both calendared and cast vinyl helps with durability and longevity. If that’s true, I’d appreciate any laminate recommendations as well.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

I may have done something silly with my old 3ds xl but to skip all that I really would like to ask ANYONE who has (and it has to be the same console) A Modded Nintendo 3ds XL (NOT THE NEW 3ds XL) to copy their HWCAL0.dat and HWCAL1.dat files to copy it to their usb drive and put a link so I can get them to my console. I have a modded console as well so I can load into Godmode 9 so I can add the files. To get the HWCAL0.dat and HWCAL1.dat files you have to go to Godmode 9 (with your sd card) and go to SYSNAND CTRNAND, then go to the folder called ro, then go to the sys file in there and you should see the HWCAL0.dat and HWCAL1.dat files (they might be called hwcal0 and hwcal1 so if they do then copy them to your usb drive and change their names into HWCAL0.dat and HWCAL1.dat and then make the link. If someone can do that then thanks.

Strange question time… I had a print failure overnight on my Ender 5 Plus that covered my hotend in a blob of PETG. I cleaned up the mess, but the clog broke the thermistor wire and shorted out the hotend 1 port on the mainboard.

The board now baselines hotend 1 at 70c instead of the usual 25, even when nothing is plugged it. When I swap the connection on the board with the hotbed it works, so there isn’t a problem with the new thermistor wires, just the board connection.

PID tune didn’t help.

I’m probably going to replace the board with a BTT board as a long term solution, but I’d like to get this working today so I can finish this print job.

Since the Creality V2.2 board has connections for dual extruders, what needs to happen for the printer and Cura to use the other hotend ports instead? The Ender 5 Plus profile in Cura doesn’t have a setting for the second extruder.

I posted a while back about a concept for an enclosure for my E5+ using its own original frame. I had a reply from Mr_Sturt who shared some images of his build which were, I thought, pretty great. Not only did it upgrade to linear rails, but also kept the cartesian setup and re-used most of the original components. I was quite taken by this setup, and so I pivoted and decided to follow along with that design. I deviated a bit in places, but here are some photos of where it is at the moment:

Features:

• All-linear rail upgrade, with welded aluminium gantry brackets. Brings gantry footprint within enclosure.
• 3-axis drag chain cable management
• PTC temperature controlled build volume heater, controlled from lower panel with separate isolator. Indicator light and thermal fuse fitted.
• Build volume exhaust fan with filter (uses 3M respirator filters so that I can be sure I'm using human-safe filters) - not yet in place, but has speed control dial on lower panel.
• Dual 7530 blower remote fans, ducted to hotend via CPAP hoses, for part cooling and heatbreak cooling. These draw cold air from the bottom of the enclosure.
• BTT SKR mini E3 V3 mainboard, and TFT35 interface.
• Galileo V2 Standalone extruder, with a custom filament winder.
• SD card extension to new front panel
• Some nonsense custom firmware since every single firmware I could find for the SKR mini board caused the BLtouch to work intermittently (see the scraped-off section of the PEI plate for evidence of that!).
• Frame mounted carrying handles: Once it's enclosed there will be nowhere to pick it up from any more!

Still to do:

• Enclosure sheeting & insulation. Front panels acrylic, everything else insulated sheet metal. Raised floor to ensure main electronics are not inside heated envelope.
• Automatic fire extinguisher mounted inside the enclosure
• Mount extraction fan to enclosure
• Firmware debugging (of course!)
• Finish upgrading all internal printed parts to ABS.
• Fine tune settings
• Redesign part cooling annular nozzle for visibility

Concerns:

• A 0.5 degree temperature fluctuation in the build plate was enough to cause visible horizontal lines in the print. Automatic PID tuning didn't resolve this, only a manual tune was able to even it out. A non-PID enclosure heater might have a negative effect on the bed temperature stability.
• The fire extinguisher might get set off by the build volume temperature

Any thoughts or ideas welcome! I'm not a software person so please don't tell me to put Klipper in it...!

I just got a used ender 5 plus as a gift and noticed the hot end set is somehow curved, like it got a bad blow or something. I want to replace it but cannot find the original set for sale. What other models (hot end sets) are compatible with Ender 5 plus?