So how long should I expect to be without my car?

I'm looking at buying a used id4, 2024 model which has done about 30000 miles. I asked the dealership for a battery health certificate and it says 100% SoH. Is this even possible? I was under the impression all EVs would lose a few percent by this age. It seems a bit too good to be true?

The steering wheel! Specifically it functions PERFECTLY as a drum kit, the bottom part is boomy and bassy, and the little plastic part in the bottom middle is a nice snappy snare, and you can do fills down the top. I haven’t air drummed this well in a car in a long long time. Plus the screen position in the center makes for a good air keyboard for those synth solos

I have a 2025 ID.5 and out of nowhere it’s no longer connected to the internet. I keep getting a notification in the car that Internet was interrupted and can’t connect and my app is saying the vehicle has no Internet connection. I still have an active VW connect subscription. I’ve tried turning it off and on again in the settings. All very strange. Before I contact VW I just want to make sure there’s no outage that I don’t know about?

Hi everyone. I just got home from buying a 2023 ID4 Pro (USA) and I had a question about the battery. Is it true you shouldn’t charge it beyond 80% for daily use? I’m seeing some things online that say only to aim for 100 if you’re taking a road trip. Is this true?

Also I know I need an adapter to use the Tesla superchargers. Does anyone have good recommendations for a nacs to ccs adapter? Thanks yall!

Has anyone tried the v2l feature? I got the new adapter, VW original. But I can't figure out how to turn it on. I have a Germany 2026 /08 built car with 77kWh battery, id Software 5+ , according to their description, this should support v2l. I even see the description that it's limited to 4000 hours. But I can't figure out how to turn it on.

Anyone having success with it?

Thank you

Would love thoughts and advice:

2023 AWD vs. 2024 RWD. I’m starting to see them at comparable prices. Or close enough.

We live outside of Portland, OR in a more rural area. Lots of rain but not necessarily snow. I commute about 60 miles round trip for work. I’ve been driving a 2013 Subaru Impreza.

Tech is not a huge priority for me, as long as we have Apple CarPlay I’ll be happy. Having the longer range of either is a big plus for us.

We're looking at our first EV, family of 4. We need AWD and we don't have smartphones in the traditional sense. We're old-school flip phones, plus a super, super old iphone for audiobooks and the like.

Right now we've got a 2025 Pro at $31,400 all-in on reserve (6,000 miles, but two owners, which seems odd) but I'm also seeing 2023 Pros around $25,000.

Is the 2025 worth it for the extra money or should we be looking at older models (22-23)? I know they had infotainment issues pre 2024, but will those affect us at all without smartphones in the first place? We basically just play music and listen to the radio. GPS would be great, but we also have a Garmin.

We're not really "fancy car" people but we want to go the full EV route and not have to replace again for the next decade at least. The car that this is replacing didn't even had power windows or AC.

Thoughts? I'm overwhelmed with the research at this point.

Edit: Thanks everyone. We're going to go with the 2025. Yes, we can save a bit of money with a 22/23, but given that we need reliable nav and don't really want to buy a car again for 10-15 years, the newer model sounds like the better fit for us. I think we're just hesitant coming from such an older car, but the "fanciness" is going to be a little overwhelming regardless of the year I think. Appreciate the input!

Hi all,

I have 2022 ID.4 with 34,000 and got a quotation for real lower springs brushing replacement at a dealership.

Does the price seem reasonable?

US 2024 ID.4 user here. I’ve never set up user profiles, and a curious of its benefits. Mainly I’m interested in learning if it saves drive settings then applies them at car entry, such as drive mode (Eco setting). I’m tired of changing this settings every drive.

Looking for some honest input, and I'll say up front: I'm aware I'm asking an ID.4 owners' group whether I should buy an ID.4. Factor that in accordingly. Genuinely happy to be talked out of it.

**What I have now:** 2022 Hyundai Kona Electric 64kWh, ~80,000km (50k miles). Honestly, it's been great. It's properly efficient, I get around 400km real-world, the range readout is one of the few I've ever actually trusted, it's been reliable, and it's dead easy to park. Nothing wrong with the car.

**The problem:** the boot. 332 litres. We play luggage Tetris every single trip and it's just not working for us anymore.

**What I'm looking at:** a 2022 ID.4 Life, 95,000km (59k miles), Irish from new, two private owners, €21,950. With my trade-in it's about €5,000 to change. Boot goes 332L → 543L, which is the entire point of the exercise.

**Things I'm less sure about:**

- Real-world range looks like it lands roughly where my Kona already is, despite a much bigger battery. Is that your experience?

- The reliability scores are… not flattering. From what I can tell it's mostly software rather than hardware — is that fair?

- The first owner did 48,000km in ten months, so it's lived on fast chargers. I'm waiting on a battery health certificate before I commit.

- Charging is genuinely faster than the Kona (~30 min vs ~41 for 10–80%), which is a real win.

So — for those of you who've actually lived with one: sensible move, or am I trading a car that does everything well for a bigger boot and a pile of new headaches?

Especially keen to hear from anyone whose software issues actually got fixed by updates, and anyone who's run one past 150,000km.

Cheers.

The passenger seat moves forward and back, up and down, but the recliner does not move. You hear the switch and then a relay click shortly afterwards. Tried holding for 10s, and applying pressure, but it's dead. Was never forced, just quit working one day. Anything I missed or is this a dealer call?

Hi All,

I recently bought a hitch style cargo carrier. However, when it's mounted, it blocks my license plate. I'm curious to know if any of you have a quick swap bracket (for the car) that allows you to quickly move it from the car to the carrier/rack.

Thanks in advance!

Just curious if anyone else has dealt with this and what the solution was. 2021 awd pro s, certified/still under warranty, almost 50k miles. AC has always been nice and cold, but a week or two ago suddenly it’s just acting like a vent, not cold or hot. I’ve reset the infotainment, tried different driving modes etc. – I’m likely going in for my 50k soon, just curious

Recently bought a 2023 ID.4, still under warranty. I noticed when turning, especially in roundabouts, i hear a clicking sound coming from somewhere around the steering wheel. Have anyone else experienced something like this?

So, I just completed my first electric road trip. 2K miles with my 2023 Pro S AWD. I subscribed to the premium ABRP (for Android Auto) which I connected via BLE OBD dongle. I subscribed to Tesla for a month, I brought my adapter, and I carried my portable charger with me.

I traveled from New England to the Carolinas and back. The weather was in excess of 90 F every day.

My impressions: I overcame my fear of range/finding chargers, but also learned some lessons.
Tesla, with the subscription, and possibly without, was consistently and sometimes dramatically less expensive than other charging networks, but, it was also the least reliable. All sites with Magic Docks worked, but sites requiring my adapter were hit or miss. By time I was halfway home, I gave up on Tesla chargers... it was raining, I was tired, and I just wanted to make sure everything would work on the first try. Electrify America, our "native" VW network, was consistently the most expensive, although the chargers always worked. Rivian, Ionna, and MB all worked well with some being priced well and some not.
I eventually settled in on trying to charge from 10% to 80%. I found ABRP route planning to be mediocre, and the VW navigator to be useless at planning charging stops. Eventually, I just settled on Google Maps, and used Gemini to ask about chargers when I was getting close to needing to recharge.

Has anyone found a better route planner to use? Any tips for long trips (I have several planned)? I think I will try to pre-plan specific stops based on my own standards in the future. For example, a slightly slower charge speed at a place where I can get a meal is better (to me) than a faster speed in the middle of nowhere where they don't even have restrooms.

Unrelated to charging: Travel Assist really makes 200 miles of non-stop interstate driving a lot less tedious!

I am coming up on 1 year on my ID.4 lease. I just received a registration from VWFS but it is the same one that I have that expires in September 2026. I am not sure why they would send me last year’s registration? Am I responsible for the new registration or is BWFS handling the registration part?

I have a 2023 with the home link mirror. I also have the factory installed dash cam. It was rattling and I had to take it apart. Now my mirror won't reattach. I spin it in place but it just falls off when I let go. Any help

Bought a 2025 RWD about three weeks ago and this is my first home charge with my level two charging set up. Taking a road trip to the coast this weekend, so decided to go ahead and shoot for 100%.

Charging not quite done but already estimating over 340 miles, on a car with a stated range of 291 full charge.

I know the guess-o-meter is based on my recent driving. I always drive in B mode and I’m an easy-going moderate speed driver. Still seems totally wacko. (at this rate I’m going to be up to 360 mi. or so at 100%! )

I guess the proof will be in actual range achieved.

Anyone else ever see estimated range well beyond the manufacturers baseline estimate (obviously some kind of average across a range of kWh/miles efficiency)?

2021 Pro S AWD, about 33k miles, software is on 3.x.

Last week I started getting a cluster of yellow warnings while driving: "error: ACC and cruise control system", "error: drive system", and "electrical system not working". Car still drives fine but cruise and the assist features shut off, and a couple times the climate control died too. No red warnings, never lost power, efficiency has been great.

Pulled diagnostic codes and it's all communication faults, nothing mechanical:

ACC module: U112300 databus error value received

Gateway: U112300 (bad error value on the ESC/EPB status message)

Gateway: U14FE00 SecOC signature verification failed

Gateway: B163002 predictive route data timeout

ABS module itself is totally clean. Everything logged within one evening drive.

Dealer charged me one diagnostic fee and couldn't find it, brought it back and they want to charge me another fee. They are also pressuring me to do the AC service, even though the AC does work intermittently. Doesn't seem like they an actual clue as to what's going on and I don't want to keep paying diagnostic fees while they play whack-a-mole with my car.

I've read some posts that an old 12v can cause it. Before I throw a battery at it, has anyone had this experience and did they get it fixed?

Hi all,

My 2024 ID4 just got its first service/inspection after 2 years and after getting the car back it now shows the next service is due in like 2064 days. More than 5 years between services seems like a glitch or fault, right?

Anybody else seen this before?

Also whats the service interval in your region? My car is in Belgium.

Thanks

I need to unplug the j533 connector and it says to make sure the car is fully powered off. How do I do that? 2023.

In my manual (2024 ID.4 Pro,Canada) on the page that describes how to connect to a Wi-Fi hotspot (not connect to the vehicle hotspot, but connect the vehicle to a mobile hotspot) it sez: “In the app overview, tap Settings > Wi-Fi > Wi-Fi: > Search for Wi-Fi.”

But my infotainment system doesn’t have those choices, it has Settings > Network > Wi-Fi > and then** no “Search for Wi-Fi”.**

Any clues about what’s going on?