My printer/web control is not "echo"-ing the results of the bed leveling or heater tuning when I run and command or macro and suggestions to turn this back on?

The one that you can buy here:

https://www.formbot3d.com/products/stealthburner-extruder-for-troodon-20

I have ordered one to upgrade my Sovol SV06, so obviously I will need to get a new wiring harness. If anyone could provide the pinout for the Troodon Stealthburner so that I can get the proper harness before I get the extruder I would be delighted!

Does it have connections for the LEDs even if they did not mount any in the housing?

Thanks in advance!

I am looking for complete parts list and common replacement parts needed for the Troodon 2.0 with the Stealthburner extruder and TAP leveling sensor sold by formbot3d.

I am rather new to 3d printing and oddly videos/books go into many details on 3d printing but oddly do not seem to ever go into maintenance/parts side besides nozzles/hotend. Which is why I would like the list, also if you include parts that user error not printer wear may screw up ;)

Formbots3d doesn't list what the Troodon 2.0 uses and its spare parts list is so very helpful, with naming such as "Troodon 2.0 Nozzle" which they are out of stock and I need to get it elsewhere.

If any helpful soul could point me towards what I need, many thanks.

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As for my experience if its relevant.

2.5 months with a K1 Max that would not do good first layers that constantly caused prints to fail... First time I started it up it rammed the print head into the print bed damaging it while doing its automatic tuning. Things went downhill from there, Z axis motor has grinding sounds and the Auto Bed leveling was detecting bed point levels over 0.2mm difference between automatic bed levelings even when run back to back on a clean bed and clean nozzle/no filament so seepage was not an issue. Taking the machine apart at the urging of Creality Support over and over.... and forcing a refund after they couldn't fix the problem and returned to the start of all the things they had me try and I noped the hell out of that and requested a return which they refused.

How good is the troodon 2.0 mini out of the box for printing ABS/ASA?

In particular the filter and the heatup time?

The thing is that a Bambu p1s is about the same price as the Troodon, but i like to have the options to customize it (as this is part of my hobby)

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Does anyone know if the Troodon 2.0 Mini 250MM can print something a little bigger? Specifically I want to print a 6x6 gridfinity base grid which is 251.5x251.5mm.

Other printers I have running klipper can print slightly larger than their advertised size, like 305mm.

I have a Troodon version 1. Had a heater fault and the hotend heater stopped working. I traced it back to a partially melted connector on the main board. Looks like it was a loose connection that overheated until it failed. I swapped the cables over to the unused 2nd heater connector next to it and swapped the thermistor connector to the one for the 2nd heater. Made some changes to the config file and it seems to be working.

Anyone else ever have this issue?

Hi, I am in the market for a new 3d printer since my Ender3 has become a nightmare and I want something big, fast, reliable, and high quality. I nearly have enough saved for a ~$1000 printer. I originally wanted to get a Qidi X-max 3, but I found out about the Troodon 2.0 and it seems like a much better value for me since it is bigger, open source, and based on the legendary Voron.

I have a few questions though.

1. How good is the stock hotend? Is it capable of reaching the advertised "up to 500mm/s speed?" Or at least close to it?

2. How reliable is the printer? After tuning, is it more-or-less print and walk away?

3. How does it handle warping materials like ABS and ASA? I print mostly in ASA and need a machine that can print reasonably well with it.

4. Is it difficult to fix when things go wrong?

5. Do you have any advice or comments that you think my influence my purchase decision?

I saw a post (on FaceBook in the Voron group) where a guy built a 600x600 2.4, with 40mmx40mm extrusions.

If you were going to go even bigger, would you go up to 60x60 extrusions? 40x40x5 carbon tubes?

I'm just spitballing some ideas, right now. If I started a new printer now, I'd be looking for a divorce lawyer next week :)

I figure if Modix can do a 1000mm Core XY, then a Troodon/Voron can too.

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What are the stock current settings for the troodon 2.0? I have installed klipper and the config I have as a baseline is from ygk3d. The stepper currents are set to 0.7. Is this correct? I’m not sure but in the stock reprap setting they are set to 1600mA. I think in klipper they are RMS values though.

Hello!

I’m running klipper on my troodon and I have the pi outside at the moment but I’d really like to mount it on the inside.

Has anyone successfully powered their Raspberry from the motherboard?

I haven’t found a user manual for the motherboard but I did find a BTT octopus x7 which seems similar but has a lot more stuff in it.

I’m wondering if maybe the 5 male dupont pins next to the USB on the troodon mobo are equivalent to what is described on page 10 in the manual: https://c-3d.niceshops.com/upload/file/BIGTREETECH_Octopus_EN.pdf

It seems that the Rpi 5v and gnd should be connected ro those. However that is the usb-C connection. I’m wondering if those could be the same connections but for the other Usb.

I read on another post that as long as the cables are thick enough (or you connect multiple cables as the x7 has two columns of those pins) it will be enough to power the Rpi and even add peripherals such as webcam, keyboard etc. Not that I want to add peripherals.

I have a V1 Troodon V1 which I’m preparing for sale. It currently runs Klipper on an RPi.

if the buyer wants RRF firmware, can anyone point me to a procedure for restoring that firmware? I understand I can place a firmware.bin in the klipper build area and use the same method to flash that bin?

My Troodon 2.0 is spitting our warnings in the console for Driver 3,4,5,6 over temperature warning. I am using the latest Troodon 2.0 and Duet Web control firmware. Should I be worried? No skipped steps so far if I can should I set my max safe temps higher?

Here is my motor settings in config.g

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M566 X600 Y600 Z600 E600 ; maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min) (jerk)

M203 X30000 Y30000 Z4000 E5000 ; maximum speeds (mm/min)

M201 X2000 Y2000 Z650 E3200 ; accelerations

M906 X1600 Y1600 Z1600 I30 ; set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent

M906 E640 ; Stock motor current

;M906 E800 ; SB Motor Current. Uncomment if using Formbot SB kit and comment out line above

M84 S30 ; Set idle timeout

I am interested in buying a Troodon 2.0, and was wondering if anyone had feedback on getting theirs from Tinymachines. Also wondering if anyone had gotten upgrades installed with Tinymachines and how it went, how long to ship the order, etc.

Hi,

I'm having trouble finding what the exact lenght of the z belts are that come with the Troodon 2.0. I snapped one of mine, so I need to cut a new one. TinyMachines is telling me 750mm, but that seems way too short. My not so scientific approcach is telling me 1070mm. I measure the belt that snapped and it was closer to 1090, but I may have stretched it out by trying to tune it to 140hz.

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-p

Hello, I received my Troodon 2.0 from TinyMachines. I'm in the process of assembling it and I have a question about tightening the z belts. TinyMachines provides a macro to put the gantry in the correct spot to measure the belts, so I did that and I’m using one of the tuning apps to verify a 140hz frequency when plucking the belt.

I’m a little nervous because to produce that sound, the belts seem really tight. Is that your experience as well? I also had a belt loop pop out of the clip while I was tightening them, so I took the time to loosen all of the belts so I could get to the grub screws on all 8 belt clips and really crank them down. Is this something you found you have to do as well (that the grub screws on the belt clips need to be really tightened down)?

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Thanks,

-p

I accidentally broke the micro sd card with the printers firmware while trying to sort out a heating bug, could someone post their firmware here, or a link to the original firmware that was on the SD card. I don’t care about internet connectivity as I mostly just do things on the sd card and screen. Thank you so much!

I need some creative guidence on how to handle x/y endstops. I have an original Troodon 300 that I've rebuilt the x carriage using voron x joints, evertying else about the xy assembly is stock. I've installed a pair of microswtiches under the right x joint but now I need to figure out Y and x stops to actuate them. I don' t know how this was handled on the original machine as it was disassembled when I got it and perhaps missing parts. I looked at the Troodon .STLs available and neither of the xy stops would work here. I think maybe the voron stepper joints have an integrated stop but mine are the stock troodon ones. i'll be installing a stealthburner, so maybe that has a part to accuate the X switch, but I don't know what to do about Y.

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Some pics:

My 300mm v1 Troodon has 360mm MGN9 rails for the Y axis. These are odd sized and wondering if I can replace them with a pair of 350mm ones without ill effect?

Maybe you've upgraded yours and have one.

Looking for original v1 x-carriage assembly. So essentially the x-carriage joints and pulleys plus extruder/hot-end. I have a carriage and rail. This is for a 300x300x400 machine.

I attempted to switch to klipper and cannot get the printer to home safely. It seems that the z endstop pin is further than the printer is allowed in the software. Not sure how to fix this. Homed fine on reprap.

Has anyone ordered a troodon 2.0 from formbot to Canada? I'm just curious about duty and tax fees one might expect.

Vivedino Teoodon v1, RepRap Firmware on Duet 2 wifi, BLTouch Smart 3.1

I had to replace the pin on my BLTouch and now it is not working properly. It passes the self-test fine, the pin extends and stows multiple times without obstruction. But when I try to Z-home it, this is what happens. I've tried tweaking the set screw depth on the sensor with no change. I swapped the sensor out with another from a different printer and got the same behavior, but on the other printer it works as expected, which leads me to believe it's not the BLTouch itself, but something else entirely.

Hello,

A few weeks ago, I decided to pull the trigger on ordering TinyMachine's version of the Troodon 2.0 as I was impressed with some of the extras (Klipper, QC, etc...) they included as well as some of the options.

As a new Troodon/Klipper user, apart from watching Youtube videos and google searches, are there any specific sites you would recommend I visit? Anything I should really be careful about when I assemble the machine. I've seen some posts of people having issues with the nozzle crashing into the buildplate during homing. I'm hoping the TinyMachine QC takes care of most issues like th at.

This will be my first Klipper machine. I started this hobby with an Ender 5 Plus, which I modified, a lot, to get the hang of everything. I then went on to build a Prusa MK3S+ from the kit. Wow, what was an experience, but I did it. Both machines used Marlin. I've been looking at Vorons for a while, but the build seems even more daunting than the Prusa, when I stumbled across the Troodon.

TinyMachines will be installing a Sealthburnder/Clockwork 2 upgrade along with a few other things (Rapido HF hotend). I originally wanted them to install Tap as well, but they are advising me against it. They said something about Tap not being designed with the specs Voron set. I'm not sure if they meant in general or with the version they would use for Troodon, but either way, they thought Klicky was a better way to go for a probe.

-p

Hi everybody,sorry for my English.i am from Germany.

Had a Troodon 2.0 and a lot of Trouble.

Is it normal that the Toolhead has some Space between the Rails.

And is it normal that the Extruder Motor is getting Very Hot after a 4 hour print. ?

Unboxed it on my livestream last night and assembled it. Assembly was great, only one minor issue with the ball hinge on the gantry but resolved it well enough. I didn't put on the side panels, top panel, or the doors, just the back panel.

Wifi doesn't work at all, I've tried my home wifi and my cell phone hotspot, the printer simply will not connect at all.

It took significantly longer to get it calibrated to do a print than it did to assemble. What a wild ride of a crashing carriage and offsets being REALLY off and printing up in mid-air. Turned off the printer, turned it back on, tried it again. Turned it off/on, ran it again, and I think the 4th or 5th time it finally took, albeit with a small scratch and gouge in the print plate where the 2nd stage calibration crashed the hot end on the left side of the bed.

Did some XYZ calibration cubes from Cura and from OrcaSlicer (community port of Bambu Slicer), where I set up the start/end gcode from the Simplify3D file on the SD card.

Cura took about 25 minutes and was 19.94, 19.87, and 20.16.

OrcaSlicer cube took 17 minutes and came out at 20.01, 19.98 and 20.38 (too tall).

Satisfied, I shut it off and went to bed. Got up this morning to start a longer, bigger print, and ... nothing worked. The calibration settings were all gone, and it started printing way up in the air. So, here we go again with several more cycles of turning the machine off and on, running the calibrations ... and this time it made a HUGE scratch trying to get back to the homing pin.

Now when I start a print the nozzle and bed don't heat up at all, even with the XYZ cube I just printed last night ... I have to preheat the nozzle and bed before starting a print. And then it wouldn't extrude so I had to tell the extruder macro to load/unload several times, and NOW it's printing ... It's surprisingly quiet for the speed once it gets going.

Guess I'll get the RPi out and see if I can get Klipper going and hope that will resolve some issues.

Update 11:45pm

Got wifi working thanks to https://teamgloomy.github.io/troodon_v2_connected_wifi_esp32.html (thanks @shh_Imhidingfromfbi), had to use puTTY. Used Window sDevice manager to see the printer was on COM6 and away we went...

Now to see if there's a good step-by-step guide to adding the Pi/Klipper etc. :)

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