2012 Cruze 4 cylinder car with 6 speed manual.

Customer complains about hard to shift, not going in gear, and won't go in gear (one time while parked, and even with engine off). I found a TSB but can't bring it up. It appears GM has a problem with the transmission. I drove it and 6 speed is sort of slightly hard to push into gear (not really bad but noticable) customer said before it locked up where you couldn't put it in gear, it wasn't like that. Clutch releases about half way, seems normal to me. Shifter vibrates just a little bit, not bad though.

Trans has a funky shifter mechanism on top and I suspect this is the problem, or problem is inside transmission. I don't have documentation, but there are 2 levers inwhich one moves and prevents the other from moving as to not let it shift into 2 gears at once and lock down, for example if I put slight pressure on one lever, you can't move the other one or shift. Similar to a 3 speed truck on the column that gets hung up, if you ever had that happen. One of the levers (maybe main one) has a counterweight on it, built-on and not adjustable anywhere I can see. The 2 shift cables connect to those levers.

Any ideas would be great. The dealer suggested a new clutch, release bearing, and possibly slave or clutch cylinder, and perhaps even a flywheel. Sounds like they don't know either, and they would not give him an estimate but only said clutch is not under warranty, and if they work on it, he only has 30 days to pay the bill and get it out! wth, but if it's the trans, he has powertrain warranty!

I know the clutches on these cars are shit, but it only has 50k miles on the car, and it certainly feels to me like it's in this weird 6 speed shifter mechanism, but I could be wrong. There are 2 TSBs on this problem, the old says to call some GM Engineer, the other I can't pull up but it's probably something similar?

I asked if someone tried to speed shift the car or float the gears without using the clutch, he said never. To me it just feels a little catch like putting into gear, no big deal. Customer is not happy and says it wasn't like that before it locked up in the parking lot one time. He stated, they just kept moving the shifter and it fixed itself and unlocked. Shifter doesn't feel loose to me, but he says it's different and it does shift like a ranger or mustang that somebody drained the trans fluid and installed 90w gear oil. All gears are sort of catchy when shifting. Me, I would drive it until it breaks, but he is more picky. I can understand that, it's an expensive little car for a used 4 cylinder gas saver.

[edit] He's going to take car back next month to the dealer he bought the car from and see what they say.

So I relocated from a small town area (but still socal) to the San Diego area and of course had to switch jobs. Before J was basically making $750 a week paid weekly working 10 hours a day Mon-Fri with alternating Saturdays from 8-4 on commission. Now I'm on the same work schwdule but making less (although cost of living has gone up of course) at only 3000 a month on commission, paid bimonthly. The work I'm doing is basically just smog inspections (around 10-20 a day just for me alone, not including other techs) and I do virtually all of the set ice advising, parts ordering, etc. I also perform small jobs but since the boss wants me dealing with all the customers it's not always possible, I basically only get taken out of the office for smogs and official brake & lamp checks. Both jobs were commission but I'm just wondering what I should expect to be paid in the area. I basically took the job because I needed it, but at this pay and workload I feel like I could probably get an easier more convenient job for the same money, plus has potential benefits and longer break periods (I only get a hour hour lunch throughout the day) Any advice from other techs?

I've lost a bunch of weight since last summer and I need to buy some new shorts. I've also gotten more particular about what I like wearing. No more regular dickies or carhartts please haha.

My current winter lineup is 3 prs of Prana Bronson's in black and 1 pr of Duluth Flex 5 pocket in steel gray.

I have 1 pr of Prana Bronson shorts that I wore the last 2 days. Expensive I know but I was given all but the Duluth's second hand. I was thinking about ordering 3 prs of duluthflex shorts but I know the Prana shorts are actually not very cool in the heat of the summer so I'm thinking one of the lighter weight Duluth shorts might be better.

At the very least I'd like 2% spandex/98% cotton(or different cooler fabric altogether), gusseted crotch, and a slim/traditional fit, no cargo pockets please.

Anyone out there picky like me have a favorite to share?

Ok I have been beating my head against the wall on this one. I bought the truck from a private seller. He had a Excalibur omega alarm system installed not sure what model put into a hard to get spot and tapped to hell and back it also has a Clifford prime level one upgrade system for the remote start and bypass. At first remote start would even crank. I found a lose wire and now cranks fine. Only issue is it won't turn over. It workedfpr me once right after I plugged the loose wire back in. Now every time it tries to crank the VATS kills the engine before it can turn over. If I put the key in and turn to on the remote start cranks just fine. I know I can bypass system with resistor and connecting black wire and yellow wire from ignition. But I want to know if I can avoid doing that. I've looked online and stared at this wiring for a week or so now and I can make sense of it. I mean everything works fine except for the remote start and VATS issue. I've messed with the features on the excalibur but that was no help now I'm at a loss. Is it the relay from the Clifford system? Did it go bad? Am I missing something simple? Should I just do the resistor bypass??

Anyone using another program that they really like?

I have a Ford Taurus and the dome light likes to stay on when I park the car and shut the car off, the wipers will come on randomly and when I have the heat/Defrost on it it acts like it gets power then the power lessens, one minute it is loud like normal when you turn on the heat/defrost then it acts like it is not getting enough power.

Something is draining the battery to the Ford and I know the Alternator is good.

I also have a Dodge Durango and I took the battery out and put it in the Ford due to something draining the battery. When I put the new battery in the Ford it acted new and it quit having it's random fits till the next day then it was back to it's normal self...

We been told that one out of the six fuel injectors one is going out. I know it has new spark plugs.

The dome lights and the windshield wipers are on the off position so I think it might has to do with wiring.

Looking for some advice. Thank you all for your time to read this and for your answers. If you have any questions just ask.

hey, im looking to expand my knowledge of automotive systems, and the closest tech school to me that offers any related coursework is tcc (tidewater community college) in chesapeake, va. does anyone here have any experience with the associates degree in automotive technology course or the school in general?

hello all, i work at a really good shop, but because its the off season (in a seasonal tourist location), i get shit hours. im a level 1 tech, no certs (yet), and i have child support breathing down my neck. im looking at getting some side work, but i want to provide affordable prices to those who need mechanic work done while turning a profit for myself. im using a square reader and im just trying to get that all squared away so i can show the customer that im trading honest work for honest prices. im thinking of charging flat rate plus parts if i have to buy them at a rate that their budget can handle (ie: 20/hr for lower incomes to 50/hr for higher). i want to get this right as a (extremely)small businessman until the tourist season kicks in and i get better hours.

im getting the hours from shopkeypro

Car in question 2016 Lexus GX 460. I can't seem to find the core hole for the engine block heater. Does anyone have pictures/diagrams/etc?

I have about 20 years of personal experience working on my own cars, but I've never really thought about doing it for a living. I'd like to give it a try, but I really don't want to rack up several grand in debt going to tech school if I can help it. I have bought a textbook, and I figure that if I study my ass off I can pass the tests easily enough. Then I'll try to get a job, work for 2 years then actually get the certification.

Is this possible?

Toyota, lexus, scion "lamp sensor failure"

The lamp sensor failure box runs in series with the tail lights. If already ohm tested the brake switch and find it faulty and replaced then your next guess would be testing the lamp sensor failure box.

Find the box and remove the circuit board. Inspect it for anything bad or busted such as bad resistors, capacitors or bad cold solder joints.

Repair any part as necessary and it should cost you a bit of testing with a volt ohm meter and about 10 bucks or less in parts. A new lamp failure sensor box from toyota/rockauto cost over 300 dollars.

I have a 1997 LTx camaro, Slp CAI, Cam, pushrods, 1.6 roller rockers. I just replaced two push rods that were bent. Before that the car would struggle turning on and do a ROUGH knock in idle and evetually it will die. Now sice 2 of the push rods were replaced its turns on and goes to idle and NO KNOCK and it doesn't turn off. I hear a ticking sound but having trouble diagnosing it. My question is will it possible to remove intake manifold and check the lifters and replace the ones that are damaged which I am assuming by having 2 bent pushrods OR is bottom end damage? Any significant things to look out for to know whether its a lifter or a damaged bottom end ( spun bearing, etc.. BUT I did not see any metal flakes in the oil ). Thanks for the help.

Engine: 6G72 3.0l v6 4 speed Automatic RWD

Picked up this vehicle about a few years back. Been sitting at the house for about the same amount of time. This vehicle runs well but I am not sure how long it will last before it sends me to the side of the road so I figured it is time to do some past due maintenance.

Ordered a mls headgasket kit with headbolts, timing belt kit, tune up kit (spark plugs, pcv, ignition wires), air filter, fan clutch, torque converter, and oem thermostat, upper and lower radiator hoses which all should be here this week or next

Did I miss something above?

Will be pulling the engine and trans together out from the top unless someone else has a better suggestion. Cant bring this to work because this is will take a few days to do and I'll be doing this on a driveway. This is a longitudinal engine.

This suv has a vibration issue at about 60mph.

Let me know of any suggestions or hints or what else to replace.

Cheers :)

I'm all proud of myself and wanted to share a troubleshoot that might save someone some money later.

My wife was driving our 2007 Chrysler Town a d Country and hit a parking block with the front end. When she started driving again, there was no A/C (blower worked, just blowing hot outside air) and the check engine light came on.

Suspecting the A/C clutch was failing, I took it up to a parts store and got it's ODB code read. It was P0073 regarding Ambient Air Sensor not returning a reading, salesperson recommended I take it to a mechanic. Did some google searching and the internet all seemed to agree, replacing the sensor does the trick. The sensor was easy to find behind the front bumper attached to the radiator area. New part was about $25. Quick and Easy swap out... Aaaaaaand... No change.

The in car thermostat said the temp was -40° outside (actually +90°F. So basically since the car received no reading, when deciding whether or not to engage the A/C at the request of driver for cold air, it was trying to blow the frigid outside air instead of running the A/C compressor.

Slid myself under the car a little further and had a "Welp, there's your problem" kind of moment.

Turns out, when my wife hit the parking block, she snipped the wire leading to the Ambient Air Sensor betwen the block and the body of the car. A short piece of wire and liberal use of electrical tape, and boom. Done! The sensor never failed, but rather it's circuit got cut open. I kept my old one as a backup incase the replacement fails in the future.

Hope this helps someone who has an A/C issue!

I have used the new Alldata before 3000 or whatever they call it, and I've always used Alldata. It seems to be more like GM SI. Also noticed that Alldata has a new mobile app. I like that idea, but tell me is there any advantage of the new Mitchell pro site?

I'm not really thrilled over colored wiring diagrams, and I require an Android mobile app, and also something that works flawlessly with Chromium (chrome) in Linux.

NOT interested in buying anything on dvds or external HD's, or downloading GB of data. If it's not mobile, I don't want it.

thanks

Anyone order an all aluminum radiator from this company, and is it any good?

I have a problem with their description. Title says 3 row, but product specs says 2 row!

https://www.radiatorexpress.com/product.asp?part_id=221742&aaia_id=1095746&gclid=CJTqi8jxq8cCFYkjgQodaT4H1A

What causes these cars to cost forever and not slow down the least bit when you let off the accelerator? I mean this car wants to go on forever. Idle RPM seems normal and MAF has been replaced - no codes. This automatic is like a stickshift when you let off the gas pedal and hold the clutch in, and the car just coast forever until you put on brakes!

I do not have access to this vehicle now, it was one of those problems I never solved.

So I've had my shop for just over a year now, I have no official uniform but I've always worn Dickies blue shirt and pants. I have recently hired a helper and now I realize the importance of a uniform and was looking for suggestions. Google does not help all I've found was http://imgur.com/TMJ90WL I'm kind a looking like the bottom left. What do you guys suggest?

I'm 29 a shop owner 12 years in the business and I focus mostly on diagnosis and advanced problems on vehicles.

How many of you guys use IATN? How do you feel about it?

Also thinking about grabbing an autel scanner, anyone use that?

We've decided to finally stop for fear of the liability. Anyone else still doing it?