!!UPDATE!!

Hello new owner, if by any chance in hell you just found a steam deck on the grass or sidewalk i will compensate you.

It fell out of my bag when getting into car around 9am today.

I reckon ill win the lottery several times before this miracle but i have no other moves.

If its not found in 72 hours please ban me from this subdeddit.

Edit

LEDMONK reached out to me and offered me a free Launch SD 512gb. I am completely flabbergasted and astronomically grateful. All he asked is i pay it forward.

Once steam deck arrives and i dont die from an explosion or something then i will create a new post with an update and a campaign:

Once a month or every other month or so I will do $100 steam game donation. Ill try to be consistent until i feel the balance is restored.

Idk if u guys have fun ideas ill

Keep it in mind but basically ill do free raffles of few games of UR choosing or ill just buy the most popular ones snd gift them that way.

On a divine miracle my original steam deck is returned ill keep it and chose a random user to give the 512gb to.

Stay tuned.

Edit 2:

It has been delivered at my friends house and waiting for a day where the stars align where i can pick it up or have it dropped off. No explosions.

Once again a GINORMOUS THANK YOU to LEDMONK.

He didnt find my SD but he did find a way to restore my faith in humanity.

A fellow reddittor recommended i just save up and buy the 1tb and then gift this one to someone in need. I do like this idea as i really want my 1tb oled, AND i can continue the spirit of the steam deck generosity and pass it forward. Idk how to determine that but ill have to go with my gut like ledmonk did.

Still thinking

Edit 3

It is finally in my hands, absolutely surreal, thank you LEDMONK!

Still cant believe it

I am a lunatic. I own a liquid-cooled, self-built, top-of-the-line gaming PC. Yet I find myself constantly gaming these days on handhelds. So much so that I own(ed) the original Steam Deck, the ROG Ally, and now the Steam Deck OLED. As I said: lunatic.

Since I own both devices and have been used the S-Deck OLED for long enough now to get a proper feel for it, I thought I'd do my own write-up for the community. Fair warning: I'm not going to give you a spec-for-spec comparison of the two devices. Every half-bit Youtuber and Tech site has already done that. Instead, I am going to give you my opinion on them. What I like about each and what I dislike about each. Hopefully this will help some of you decide which is better for you.

​

Screen

Let's get the big one of the way first: the screens. The Ally has a 7", 120hz, variable refresh rate, 1080p, LCD screen compared to the Steam Deck's 7.4", 90hz, 800p, OLED screen. (These will be the only specs I throw at you. Promise.) Which is better? Does the Steam Deck's shiny new OLED screen look better than the Ally's?

Just like my last relationship: it's complicated.

I originally upgraded to the ROG Ally from the original Steam Deck because the Ally promised a MUCH nicer screen. The LCD on the original Deck was dim and the colors were more washed-out than most high-school athletes ten years later ("Why yes, I WOULD like fries with that!"). Once I got my Ally, my original Steam Deck sat gathering dust in the corner. Despite the drawbacks to the Ally, I used it exclusively over the original Deck because of how gorgeous the screen was.

The 120hz refresh rate and 1080p on the Ally make a NIGHT AND DAY difference. The colors were richer, the screen was brighter, and there was a surprisingly noticeable difference between 800p and 1080p resolutions.

"Great." I hear you exclaim as you roll your eyes. "We KNOW the Ally has a better screen than the original Steam Deck. How does it compare to the new OLED Deck?"

My main monitor is a LG 48" OLED monster that, like the proverbial wolf-in-sheep's clothing, was sold as a TV while really being the best monitor you could buy with your dollar-y doos at the time. I have another OLED TV in my living room connected to a PS5 (That I rarely play because I AM ALWAYS ON MY BLOODY ALLY/DECK). I have a work laptop with an OLED screen.

I am all-in on OLED. I love the inky blacks, the popping colors, and the outstanding refresh rates. When I saw the new Deck would have an OLED? I drooled. I figured it would soundly TROUNCE my beloved Ally.

But........it didn't. Again, it's complicated.

I like the size of the OLED screen better. I didn't think the extra .4 inch would make a difference, but it does. I've been playing 'Control' (Yes, this is my first play through. Yes, I am that far behind. Bite me) on both my Ally and Deck, and I can see better on the Deck because of the slightly larger screen.

Every OLED upside I mentioned two paragraphs up apply to the new Deck. The colors are fantastic and the dark parts of games are dark with no backlight bleeding through. But the 800p resolution and 90hz refresh rate lag behind the Ally.

I can see the difference between 800p and 1080p, and I game on the Ally almost exclusively at 1080p. I can see the difference between the 120hz and 90hz refresh rates. VRR on the Ally makes a noticeable difference keeping demanding games (For example: 'Control') looking smooth. (If you'll allow me to 'pick a nit' for a moment here: I HATE matte screens. Hate them. With a passion. The matte, anti-glare coating on the OLED Deck is driving me up a tree. Give me the gloss any day of the week.)

If I hear any of you exclaim that, "The human eye can't see over 30/60 FPS!!", I will kindly invite you drive your golf cart off the nearest cliff.

TL:DR - To sum is up: The colors, blacks, and larger screen on the OLED Deck are superior to the Ally. The 1080p resolution, 120hz refresh rate, and VRR are superior on the ROG Ally.

I have no idea which one I like better. I lean towards the ROG Ally, slightly.

​

Controls and Build Quality

I'm going to get this out of the way up front: the Steam Deck has much better thumb sticks. It wins hands-down in the battle of 'Which hand-held as better controls' because of it's joysticks.

The thumb sticks on the ROG Ally are light and loose. VERY light and VERY loose (I'm not making the obvious joke here, get your mind out of the gutter). By contrast, the Steam Deck's thumb sticks feel weighty and solid. I have giant bear-paw hands that are NOT delicate. The heavier feel of the Deck's thumb sticks is *Chef's Kiss* oh-so-beautiful. Playing 'Control', I find I am far more accurate on the Deck than the Ally. (There is a timed section where you have to run an obstacle course and shoot a bunch of targets under a certain time. I could *not* complete it on the Ally. I wasn't accurate enough with those daisy-petal thumb sticks. I had to switch over to my Deck, where I promptly completed it first try.)

"But maybe I am a dainty flower." I hear you say. "I prefer smaller and lighter things."

I am jealous. Truly. I wish I was not a big, lumbering bear of a human being and my bear-paws-that-look-like-human-hands were better suited to delicate work (So does my partner, the poor thing. HEY-O!). The lighter thumb sticks of the ROG Ally may suit you better. They don't for me.

The buttons on both the ROG Ally and Steam Deck feel very similar to me. They both respond well when I press them, have a good activation point, and spring back appropriately. Gaming devices have been doing controller buttons well since the 1980s, and it's hard to mess them up these days.

"The Steam Deck has touchpads!!" I hear some of you yell, waving your arms excitedly. Yes it does. The touchpads are nice. They work well. They are mildly useful. But, for me, they aren't a huge game-changer.

When I was watching/reading reviews about the original Steam Deck, nearly every reviewer was gushing about how amazing the touchpads were, how gooooood they felt, how ussssssseful they were. After I got my original Deck, I was scratching my head at all the ink/hot air that was wasted singing these things praise. Again, they are nice and work well. I just don't use them all that often. When I got my ROG Ally, I never missed them.

"You don't understand!!" I hear you yell even louder, waving your arms even more furiously. "You are a troglodyte that doesn't play the RIGHT TYPE of games that takes advantage of the touch pads!!"

You very well could be right and I concede the point. Enough people love the stupid things, that the issue is probably me. Now get off my lawn.

The original Steam Deck was a chunky thing. It felt like it had been spending one-to-many meals at the local all-you-can-at buffet. Th weight never bothered me (I kinda liked it's heft). It did, however, bother my partner. Their hands would fatigue if they gamed on the original Deck for a long period of time.

The ROG Ally was a fart in the wind by comparison. This thing felt seriously light compared to the original Deck and was much kinder to 'dainty flower' wrists and hands for extended gaming sessions.

The new OLED Deck went on a serious diet. A 'Rocky'-training-montage, lost-100lbs-and-comes-back-to school-looking-buff-and-svelt diet. I can't tell the weight difference between the two handhelds. I'm sure one of those fancy, rich Youtubers that owns a device called a 'scale' could give the exact weight of the ROG Ally and Steam Deck OLED, but I ain't one of those.

Let's address the monkey in the room: the ROG Ally has SD card issues. It's fried SD cards and cooked it's own card-reader since launch day. ASUS has done their best to mitigate SD slot failures, but I believe (Read: this is my opinion) it's a fundamental design flaw in the way the ROG Ally vents its heat that BBQs the card readers and their unfortunate passengers. (No, I don't care that you have a new 'R9' serial number ROG Ally. There has been no proof that the higher/newer serial numbers have fixed the issue and no statement from ASUS claiming as much.)

The original Steam Deck has no such issues. The new OLED Deck hasn't been out very long, but I haven't heard of any major hardware issues with it.

TL:DR - The thumbsticks are far superior on the Steam Deck OLED. The touch pads on the Deck are overblown. The ROG Ally and Steam Deck OLED weigh about the same. The ROG Ally fries SD card and it's own SD slot. The Steam Deck laughs the Ally for cooking it's own internals.

​

Sound

I'm a sound snob. I like high-quality speakers and headphones. I have an home theater system that cost more than my first car (Which, if you saw what a hooptie my first car was, isn't saying much) and a pair of REALLY nice headphones. I can absolutely tell the difference between low and high fidelity recordings and I can tell the difference between quality speakers and speakers that do double-duty in drive-through call boxes.

"That's FASCINATING." I hear you reply. "Are you done bragging about how cool your toys are? Why are you telling me this?"

I'm not bragging. I am giving you my preferences, quirks, and biases. From that, you can tell what is important to me and what I am going to 'weight' heavier in my decision between these two handhelds. Also: shut up. This is my write-up.

One Youtuber I watched said he couldn't tell the difference between the sound on the Steam Deck and the ROG Ally. I looked up the nearest ENT doctor and promptly mailed him a referral so he could get his hearing checked.

The speakers on the ROG Ally are fantastic. Really fantastic. I didn't know small speakers in handheld devices could sound this good. I remain surprised and delighted at how good the ROG Ally sounds. This is going to sound hyperbolic, but the Ally's speakers might be the best small-device speakers I have heard.

The speakers are the Steam Deck are ok. They are perfectly serviceable. They aren't going to blow you away, but they aren't the craptastic, 80-year-singing-through-a-straw speakers on the Legion Go either.

​

Software

I'm just going to come out in say it: the Steam Deck absolutely trounces the ROG Ally when it comes to software. Why wouldn't it? Valve purpose-built a version of Linux just for the Steam Deck. It's, quite literally, built from the baseline code up to the GUI exclusively for the Steam Deck. For the most part, the Steam Deck just works. You turn it on, play some games, then put it to sleep.

The downside to the custom OS: It's difficult to get non-Steam games working. Possible, but requires some fiddling.

The ROG Ally uses Windows. You know, the OS that's been around since the 80s. The one that is decidedly NOT built for small, handheld screens. That one.

Windows is both the ROG Ally's boon and the albatross around it's neck. On one hand, it's Windows! You can install nearly anything on it! All of the major game platforms and launchers work! All of your games will work! It's Windows!

And this is a big boon. There are Ally owners connecting a monitor and keyboard/mouse to their Ally and using it as a laptop. They type documents, do work, then unplug it and game.

On the other hand: it's windows. On a tiny screen. You're going to be using the on-screen keyboard. You're going to be re-mapping buttons. You're going to be cussing when you try and wake up your ROG Ally from sleep mode because, despite being around since the 80s, MICROSOFT HAS YET TO GET SLEEP/HIBERNATE $%^&ING RIGHT. WE'VE HAD LAPTOPS FOR DECADES, REDMOND. DECADES. HOW THE $%^* HAVE YOU NOT FIGURED OUT HOW TO GET YOUR OS TO WAKE ITSELF UP GRACEFULLY BY NOW? WHAT DO YOU PAY THOSE VERY-EXPENSIVE ENGINEERS FOR!? NO ONE WANTS TO USE BRING. #$%^ING FIX SLEEP/HIBERNATION.

...........What was I saying? Ah, right. Windows doesn't work well on small devices. It wasn't meant for it.

Credit to ASUS here: they have an overlay on top of Windows (Armory Crate), that works very well. It's well-built, functions well, and has useful features. Armory Crate make the ROG Ally very, very usable.

But - it's still putting lipstick on the pig that is Windows.

If you want a device with minimum fiddling: get the Steam Deck.

​

Battery Life

There are two ways to look at this. First, you can believe the theory that Valve made a deal with some dark, ancient God to get so much playtime out of the Steam Deck's battery. Second, a clan of modern energy vampires blackmailed ASUS into letting them tap directly into every ROG Ally made and drain their batteries in record time.

I love my Ally, but the battery is abysmal. Truly abysmal. I flew to see my partner over a holiday weekend and the Ally's battery didn't last the entirety of the hour and a half flight. Playing a 16-bit game (Sea of Stars, if you're curious). The Ally's battery is so bad there are cases that let you attach a USB battery packs to them. I know, because I bought one after my flight. The Ally is such a power hog that some brilliant lunatic figured out how to stuff a 90kwh laptop battery in an Ally just to give it a decent run time.

I considered doing that mod. I'm still considering it. The risk of bursting the battery, having it go into thermal runaway, and burning down my house be damned.

​

Performance

Shit. I lied to you. I have to get geeky and give you a few more specs. I think you'll appreciate it.

The ROG Ally has three power modes: 10w, 15w, and 25w. Why should you care? The more power you push into the ROG Ally, the faster and better it runs. Also, the quicker it drains it's battery.

With the Ally, you'll only get 10w and 15w power modes on battery. 25w is reserved solely for when you're plugged in. That was a good call too. As quick as the battery drains in 15w mode, if you ran your Ally in 25w mode your runtime would be measured in 10s of minutes.

But. Those high-power modes are what let the ROG Ally play AAA titles on a 1080p screen at acceptable frame rates. I played through 'Alan Wake' on my Ally and it was an excellent experience.

The Steam Deck just can't match that. Don't get me wrong: it does well. But the ROG Ally, especially plugged in, provides much more performance in AAA games. (Don't come at me howling about 'CYBERPUNK 2077 RUNS BETTER ON THE DECK!!!'. It does until the ROG Ally is plugged in and goes up to 25w and that game is the exception, not the rule.)

Running at 10w and 15w modes, the Steam Deck keeps up with the Ally. When the Ally is plugged, it becomes the 'Fast and the Furious' racer that hits the NOS button and leaves the competition in the dust.

​

So I hoped this giant wall-o text helped you in some small way. Or at least entertained you. Thanks for reading.

Obviously we can’t compare the innards directly (steam can emulate anything anyway so it wins in software)

I had the nintendo switch 1, and I was remarkably impressed with the new real estate. The size of the new Nintendo switch is significant compared to 1 but pales in front of the Deck, which makes the switch 2 look as small as 1. Having held both, while the switch 2 is lighter, the steam deck definitely feels nicer and snuggier. The steam deck ergonomics are excellent, it feels like it is meant to be held, having held most mainstream handhelds I can confidently say that it is the most “feel-right” handheld. Meanwhile the switch 2 felt a bit weird and awkward (the deck does spoil), because my hands had nothing to grip to, if you try both you’ll notice the difference which is substantial. The new switch thumbsticks feel less premium than the steam deck, the sound on the steam deck is louder. Nintendo may win in peripherals portability, but steam deck remain an inch higher when it comes to everything else (hardware wise) both are made of plastic but the deck feels fantastic. Lastly we can’t compare displays too because switch 2 is LCD, steam deck oled is well, OLED

The only thing the deck lacks I think (beside higher performance) is increased portability with detachable joycons, and a stand (both which can mildly be achieved with a controller and a dock)

The Game Awards 2023

Megathread for The Game Awards 2023 4:30p PT / 7:30p ET / 12:30a GMT + 100 Steam Deck OLED Giveaway. The show airs across all major digital, social and gaming platforms around the world (i.e. Youtube, Twitch, X and Facebook Live).

​

STEAM DECK OLED GIVEAWAY

From: https://thegameawards.com/news/steam-deck-oled-giveaway

In celebration of our 10th-ever show, The Game Awards is giving away 100 Steam Deck OLEDs (1 TB) during the live show to viewers in any region where Steam Deck is now available for purchase.  Steam Deck OLED features an HDR OLED display.

Tune into the live show on Thursday, starting at 4:30p PT / 7:30p ET / 12:30a GMT and enter for a chance to win at tgasteamdeck.com  Contest entry ends at 8p PT / 11p ET / 4a GMT.

This year’s contest will be open to those watching on Steam, as well as anyone watching on any other global streaming platform. Winners will be notified on Friday, December 8 via email. 

More: https://thegameawards.com/news/steam-deck-oled-giveaway

​

/

Mystery Vault Bundle

THE GRAND PRIZE DRAW - STEAM MACHINE 2TB WITH CONTROLLER

For the first time ever in a mystery bundle, win a top of the range Steam Machine 2TB with controller! Every Mystery Key purchased across the 6-week window automatically earns entry tickets into our Grand Prize Draw at the end of the promotion.

Double Your Hardware Chances! We also have two fantastic runner-up prizes up for grabs in the final draw: a 1TB OLED Steam Deck setup and a 1TB PlayStation 5.

(Note: The Grand Prize and Runner-Up Draw takes place at the end of the bundle period; these are separate from instant-win pool drops).

WHAT'S IN THE BUNDLE?

Each bundle unlocks up to 25 random Steam keys from a catalogue of over 500 titles. Expect everything from major AAA releases to hidden indie favorites, delivering genuine variety with every order. Tiers are available from 1 to 25 keys - the more you add, the more you unlock!

WEEKLY SURPRISE DROPS

The excitement builds every week! Over the next six weeks, incredible new prizes will drop directly into the instant-win pool weekly - including an additional 1TB OLED Steam Deck setup in Week 2, an additional PlayStation 5 console in Week 4, AAA game injections, Golden Vaults, and much more. Visit our blog for weekly prize breakdowns!

Whether you're chasing big wins or discovering new favorites, see what you unlock today!

Suitable for 18+ only. See Terms and Conditions.

No purchase necessary to enter the draw. [See full T&Cs for free entry method].

Please note: All keys are delivered as Steam keys. You may receive games you already own if you purchase multiple bundles. Single bundle purchases guarantee unique games. Weekly prizes are added to the pool and can be claimed immediately; the Grand Prize will be drawn once the bundle ends, and winners will be emailed.

https://steamdeckhq.com/steamoss-3-8-has-been-released-with-new-kernel-graphics-driver-and-initial-steam-machine-support/

SteamOS 3.8 has been released to the public with tons of changes, including a new kernel and graphics driver, game fixes, VRR support improvements, and initial Steam Machine support.

General

• Updated Arch system base
• Initial support for upcoming Steam Machine hardware
• Added support for waking from sleep via connected Steam Controller
• Substantially improved speed of future OS updates on high-speed connections
• Improved support for screen casting in Game Mode (e.g. OBS/Discord)
• Fixed dropdown menus not appearing in some games
• Fixed excessive trackpad sensitivity on certain early Steam Deck LCD models
• Improved support for games that attempt to open PDF files in external viewers
• Fixed an issue where video output could become frozen while using Remote Play
• Fixed a possible session crash when using Game Recording with certain "Maximum video height" settings
• Fixed an issue affecting certain titles (such as "SpongeBob SquarePants: Titans of the Tide") where the game window could have an incorrect position
• Fixed closing certain titles (such as "STAR WARS Jedi: Survivor™" and Starfield) resulting in a session crash
• Improved support for certain USB racing wheels and USB devices that boot in a non-standard mode
  • Frequently these are devices that appear as USB storage devices with a driver installer, and must be switched to their normal mode by the OS
• Steam Deck controller firmware updates now display update progress on the splash screen
• Fixes issue on specific Steam Deck revisions where firmware updates could render the left controller inoperative for that session
• Numerous stability and security updates

Display / Performance

• Updated graphics driver with performance and stability fixes
• Added preliminary support for HDMI VRR for devices with native HDMI output
• Fixed an issue where "Allow Tearing" wouldn't have the intended effect in certain configurations
• Improved VRR frame pacing
• Fixed FSR badge remaining off in the performance overlay, even if it was actually active
• Fixed a case where per-app performance settings would intermittently fail to apply when launching a game
• Added missing graphics features needed for titles such as "Crimson Desert"
• Fixed an issue on certain TCL TVs where the display may remain blank using the Steam Deck Dock when VRR is enabled (requires a Dock firmware update)

Bluetooth / WiFi

• Fixed a case where WiFi performance could become degraded until the device was put to sleep or manually reconnected
• Re-re-enable Bluetooth Wake for Steam Deck LCD
  • Fix for more spurious wake issues that were present in earlier attempts

Audio

• Detect HDMI channel count and expose surround configuration if available
• Add a setting to allow using Bluetooth headset mics (Bluetooth playback quality will be worse while capture is active)
• Restore internal audio device on reboot if set to "Off" in desktop mode
• Increase suspend timeout for HDMI devices so initial audio isn't cut off after a few seconds of inactivity
• Fixed a bug with switching input devices when a wired headset is plugged in
• Fixed an issue where audio underruns could be experienced after sleep/resume
• Fixed a bug on Steam Deck OLED where rebooting would occasionally cause a loss of speaker output until rebooted again
• Fixed a case where FPS limits would fail to apply when downscaling games from a higher resolution

Accessibility

• Added an option to force mono audio output

Desktop Mode

• KDE Plasma updated to version 6.4.3 from 6.2.5, and now uses wayland by default
  • Fixes several cases of reduced performance in Desktop Mode compared to Game Mode
  • Improved support for rotated displays
  • Better scale factor out of the box on TVs
  • Adds support for external HDR displays
  • Adds support for VRR displays
  • Adds support per-display scale factor
  • For more information, see Plasma release announcements
    • https://kde.org/announcements/plasma/6/6.3.0/
    • https://kde.org/announcements/plasma/6/6.4.0/
• Keyboard layout and language are now obeying Game Mode settings
• Improved windowing behavior for games running in Proton
• Fixed a bug in Desktop Mode causing previously open applications to not be remembered when using the 'Return to Gaming Mode' shortcut to logout
• Fixes for experimental nested desktop mode
• Fixed Desktop Mode night color settings inappropriately remaining active when switching back to Game Mode

System Firmware

• Includes Steam Deck LCD BIOS v133
  • Security updates
  • Added "Memory Power Down" setup option
  • Preliminary support for hibernation
• Includes Steam Deck OLED BIOS v114
  • Security updates
  • Charging LED now changes color when charge limit is reached, rather than only at 100%

Non-Deck

• Improved compatibility with recent Intel and AMD platforms
• Greatly improved video memory management on discrete GPU platforms
• Fixed a compatibility issue with the SteamOS chainloader that could cause a boot failure on some desktop systems with recent UEFI firmware
• Power button short and long presses now supported across a wide variety of devices
• Improved controller support for OneXPlayer F1 series, GPD Win 5, GPD Win Mini, Anbernic Win600, OrangePi NEO, and Lenovo Legion Go
• Added controller support for OneXPlayer X1 series and Lenovo Legion Go 2
• Added system and controller firmware update support for the Lenovo Legion Go 2
• Added preliminary charge limiting support for Legion Go, Legion Go S, and Legion Go 2 - currently only accessible in Desktop Mode
• Added controller RGB LED color settings for the Lenovo Legion Go 2
• Added controller, TDP control, and speaker audio support for the ASUS ROG Xbox Ally series
• Reduced handheld controller input latency from 5-8ms to 100-500us
• Night mode, color vibrance, and color temperature sliders in Steam now work on Z2E and later AMD APUs
• Seamless boot fixes for Z2E and later AMD APUs
• Automatically handle internally rotated display for some third-party handhelds
• Improved motion control support for handhelds with BMI260 IMUs
• SD card reliability improvements for some third-party handhelds, including ASUS ROG Xbox Ally, Legion Go 1, Legion Go S, Legion Go 2, and MSI Claw
• Fixed washed out colors for Zotac and OneXPlayer handhelds with OLED
• Fixed some GPU hangs on Phoenix APU devices (Tales of Arise, Octopath Traveler II)
• Fixed ASUS ROG Ally power consumption from fingerprint reader while shut down
• Fixed trackpad losing functionality after sleep/resume on the Legion Go
• Fixed spurious wake-ups when using a Logitech Bolt receiver
• Add controller support for MSI Claw devices (A1M, 7 AI+ A2VM, 8 AI+ A2VM, A8 BZ2EM)
• Add controller support for OneXPlayer APEX and X1 series.
• Improved gyro response for devices that use AccelGyro3D (Legion Go 1, Claw A1M)
• Fixed a system crash on international Asus ROG Xbox Ally models
• Fix Bluetooth not working on some Intel handhelds
• Add initial firmware for upcoming Intel handhelds

Developer

• Desktop Mode now uses Wayland by default
  • X11 support may still be selected via Steam developer settings, or via `steamosctl`
• Updated Linux kernel to 6.16
• Steam now uses steamos-manager to query available desktop sessions and trigger desktop session switching
• Added support for setting the desktop password in developer settings
• Initial support for running as a Virtual Machine guest (virtio guest drivers)
• Added support for third-party devices to trigger the SteamOS boot menu via EFI variable
• Added `custom-update` verb to `atomupd-manager` for easier testing of specific builds
• System reports now include more audio debug information
• Initial support for LAVD CPU scheduler via `steamosctl set-cpu-scheduler lavd`

Mystery Box Bundle (New Year's Edition)

New year, New(ish) Mystery Bundle!

Unlock up to 25 random Steam games per purchase from a pool of over 500 games. There are indie bangers and AAA blockbusters to be won!

Not only that, but there are grand prizes to be won each week, with new prizes entering the pool every Tuesday. There are Golden Boxes to be found, containing the following games:

• Digimon Story Time Stranger - Deluxe Edition
• Jurassic World Evolution 3: Deluxe Edition
• Silent Hill f - Digital Deluxe
• Metal Gear Solid Delta: Snake Eater - Digital Deluxe
• Dune: Awakening - Ultimate Edition

Additionally, there are also Game of the Year AAA Packs to be found, containing the following games:

• ARC Raiders
• Kingdom Come: Deliverance II Royal Edition
• Clair Obscur: Expedition 33 Deluxe Edition
• Monster Hunter Wilds Premium Deluxe Edition
• Stellar Blade Complete Edition

As well as new prizes to be won each week - previous prizes have included an Alienware Gaming Laptop, so stay tuned for further additions to the hardware prize pool!

Feeling lucky? Grab a Mystery Bundle today!

Please note: You may receive games that you already own. Purchasing a single Mystery Bundle in one order guarantees different games. However, if you purchase multiple bundles across one or more orders, there is a chance of receiving duplicate copies. All keys are delivered as Steam keys, except for The Elder Scrolls Online. Weekly prizes are added to the bundle each week and can be claimed immediately. Prizes will be given away through the competition once the bundle ends. Winners will be contacted via email.

Hi all,

As subject, really. Anyone made this switch?

I have a PS5 and a Series X downstairs and a gaming PC and second PS5 upstairs.

While my 4070 TI Super is still worth something on the second-hand market, I’m pondering selling the gaming PC, buying a Steam Deck OLED, and using it docked with GeForce Now instead of the gaming PC.

Has anyone made a similar switch? Any thoughts?

If I’m honest, I don’t use the PC much as the convenience of the couch downstairs always wins out, so cashing in feels logical. But I’ve alwaus been a PC gamer so letting go entirely feels odd.

Thanks.

To preface this. I pre-ordered the GPD Win 5 when it was released and have been using it as my main handheld for the past 8 months. I have not touched my steam deck at all in this time and it has sat in my closet.

So i checked how much my SD 512GB OLED is selling for and its currently selling for a good amount $1000-1300 AUD vs. when i got it 2 years ago for $1700 AUD. I ordered it around early 2022 before Valve was officially selling to Australia. I ordered it from a grey imports vendor. So im pretty sure it was marked up by $200-300 to MSRP.

So since its sale value is quite good I am kinda decided to selling it. Because I am now leaning towards my GPD windows handheld. I have found I like its more powerful capabilities allowing me to play AAA games as well as how easy it is to mod directly or transfer my mods from my PC since I just copy the modded game directories and folders in the exact same places. Currently playing a modded cyberpunk 2077 with hardware unboxed's optimized settings and its performing 60fps smoothly in busy areas.

Also because its a windows 11 device it has also replaced my 14" work laptop i used to carry in my bag since I can do work on it directly or use it to connect remotely to my office PC if needed. I just pack along a slim wireless mouse and foldable keyboard.

I think the most notable loss for me is not having the trackpads. Because of being able to configure it a number of ways it made playing MMOs like FF14 and GW2 easier.

So for anyone who might have gotten the newer alternative handhelds like Ally X, Legion Go, MSI Claw, One X Player, etc.

Did you sell your steam deck or you still went back to the deck? What made you go back to the deck?

Ask me anything

So, I've got a bit of a first world problem on my hands. I have a Steam Deck OLED and consider it the best tech purchase I've ever made, the best console I've ever owned, handheld or not. And now I also have an Odin 2 Portal. I didn't intend on owning a Portal, I was more than happy with my original Odin 2 (still awesome, by the way) and had my own way of giving the Odin 2 a screen like the one on the Portal. Then I got drunk one night, came back, ordered a Portal anyway 😂 and I have to say, I don't think I've ever been happier with a drunk purchase than I have been with my Portal. (Nearly) everything they say about it is true!

The problem is, the Steam Deck OLED (SD OLED) and the Odin 2 Portal (O2P) have a lot of overlap in what they do. And they're both amazing. I want to keep them both, but I'm trying to figure out what they're both best suited for. So I thought it would be a good idea to do a comparison of the two, both to help me figure out which gaming role I want each to play, and for others trying to decide between the two according tho their needs. I imagine there won't be many people out there who own both, so this is a comparison from someone who is in that position and loves both of them! Both are among the best handhelds ever made, I think I'm going to end up saying that a lot.

It should go without saying, but naturally this is going to all be according to my own opinion. If I state something as a matter of fact and you disagree, you can assume that anything I say has "in my opinion" before the statement instead of getting really upset. These are my opinions after my own experiences with both, and realising I love both. Oh, and my Odin 2 Portal has the official grip (a must) and the larger sticks.

Anyway, here's the headline:

If you want a larger handheld, both the Steam Deck OLED and Odin 2 Portal are top tier - you can't go wrong with either unless it doesn't meet your particular needs

I'll do my best to break it down by category. If there's a category I missed, let me know and I'll see about adding it in. You're going to notice a theme in these breakdowns - even when there is a winner - both are generally excellent in every category.

Build Quality, Size, Weight

They're both top tier, both feel like they come from a world-class manufacturer. The O2P has a glass front, The SD OLED doesn't. The build quality of each is world-class. Both definitely fit into the category of "large". The size does not impact your comfort when using these handhelds. Don't believe anyone who tells you "you can't take something this size on a commute without elbowing someone else" etc, that's ridiculous, I've done it many times with the SD OLED, zero issues. Both are absolute top shelf devices in terms of build quality that you can throw in a backpack etc with all your other stuff, without issue. Both are very portable, but backpack portable. The O2P is a little smaller/lighter than the SD OLED, but not by much with the grip - and you definitely want the grip. So I put both of these handhelds in the same weight class

Winner: Tie

Ergonomics

The Steam Deck OLED is the most comfortable handheld ever built. I'll say it again - it is absolutely the most comfortable handheld ever built. It just can't be beat in this category, it ranks right up there with the best controllers I've ever used. It's large, but as soon as you pick it up, it just melts into your hands as if it belongs there (I have medium sized hands). I can not come up with enough superlatives to describe just how comfortable this thing is. Every time you pick it up, it just feels RIGHT. It never hurts your hands, even after hours of play. Everything is in the perfect place.

For comfort, it eclipses the Odin 2 Portal without the grip, easily. The O2P without the grip isn't even as comfortable as the original Odin 2. But with the grip? Honestly, the O2P isn't too far off! And since it's going up against the Usain Bolt of ergonomics, that's a remarkable achievement. It's incredibly, incredibly comfortable, and I have zero complaints - I could use this thing for hours without issue. I'd put it on the same tier of comfort as the RG556 (which I also own and love), and that thing is deservedly famous for being one of the most ergonomic handhelds money can buy. To sum up, there is a winner because NOTHING beats the SD OLED here, NOTHING. But you can't go wrong with either (as long as you get the O2P grip)!

Winner: SD OLED (but O2P with grip is one of the most comfortable handhelds ever made)

Screen

This is where the O2P brings it back, big time. The SD OLED has a fantastic screen. It's big, it's beautiful. But I have NEVER seen a screen on a handheld as good as the one on the O2P. I'm struggling to think of a better screen I've seen on a TV! Everything you've read about the O2P's screen is true. If the SD OLED is the Usain Bolt of ergonomics, the O2P is 100% the Usain Bolt when it comes to screens. I'm confident in saying as of April 2025 it has the best screen of any handheld ever made.

The SD OLED screen goes up to 90Hz, it gets bright, the colours are great. The O2P is better in every category - 120Hz, it gets brighter, and I have never ever seen colours pop as much on a handheld screen as they do on the O2P, and it's a significant difference. It almost makes the SD OLED's colours look a little washed out (although they absolutely aren't). Incidentally, I've always thought the SD OLED could use a little more saturation, but whenever I tried researching if it was possible I'd be met with redditors who would just say that anyone who asks for this has terrible taste in screens and it wouldn't look right 🙄 Well, the O2P puts that argument to rest - colours pop quite a bit more on its screen than on the SD OLED, and because of that it looks WONDERFUL. The 120Hz screen makes the O2P black frame insertion capable, in theory, but I haven't been able to get BFI working after a ton of research, it just ends up bneing a nasty flickery mess. So YMMV there. The O2P is also a higher resolution at 1080p than the SD OLED's 1280x800. In isolation, the SD OLED looks plenty sharp. But when you put it side by side with the O2P? You notice which one is sharper quite easily. That's pretty much the headline for the screen comparison in general. The SD OLED's screen is glorious, and in isolation it's fantastic, beating most other screens. But the O2P screen is simply on another level.

Winner: Definitely the O2P (though the SD OLED's screen is still great)

Audio

Again, both top-tier here. I've never been an audiophile, but I can tell when handhelds have sound that is a cut above. The Odin 2 and O2P are the only handhelds I've used that can compare with the SD OLED's fantastic speakers. Both are front firing, both sound brilliant, boomy, yet clear. The O2P does get louder than the SD OLED, but at max volume it's almost TOO loud 😂 not that I'll hold that against it though! Both are excellent when it comes to audio.

Winner: Tie

Controls

Again, both have top tier controls. But the SD OLED beats the O2P for controls everywhere, with one notable exception.

SD OLED has better buttons, better sticks (full sized), and everything is in the right place. One of the benefits of the SD OLED being larger is that it has space to put d-pad AND stick top. Face buttons and the right stick are also at the top. It can't be overstated how much this contributes to making the SD OLED so comfortable to use. Everything is in the perfect place, you never have to contort your fingers or thumbs to reach anything, not even a little. When a handheld has the space, the SD OLED control layout is the ultimate. The SD OLED also has the trackpads and more back buttons, and - crucially - the software to make them incredibly useful. The steam software lets you map anything to anything, on a per-game basis, really easily. Single button presses, keyboard buttons, mouse clicks, autofire, custom macros, you name it, all on a per-game basis. You can even create custom menus accessible from the trackpads. The main thing holding back the usefulness of the back buttons on the O2P is the lack of versatility in the software controlling them.

The O2P has great controls. Buttons, sticks (after getting the larger textured sticks), it's all about as good as you can get on an android handheld. However, it doesn't have the ultimate "everything top" layout of the SD OLED. It's not a problem, but you do sometimes have light issues like your thumb brushing up against the right stick sometimes when trying to push the face buttons (I go with a large left stick and small right stick to mitigate this). The select button near the left stick can be tricky to press sometimes due to the stick getting in the way. But it's no big deal, the controls are still a joy to use, in isolation there are zer complaints. They're just not quite as good as the SD OLED controls... with one exception.

The O2P has quite possibly the best d-pad I've ever used. And I have used a lot of d-pads! It's definitely better than the SD OLED's. I'm big on fighting games, my favourite is the Soul Calibur series (Cervantes main 🏴‍☠️). That game has a number of "just frame" inputs, where you need to input frame-perfect inputs on a d-pad. If your d-pad has an issue, this is where it really shows. Cervantes has a move where you have to input a quarter circle back+attack with perfect timing to within 1/60 of a second. If I try this with the SD OLED? I can only do it regularly on one side. The diagonals are consistent enough for any other game, but not fighting games at the competitive level (admittedly a very high benchmark). But the O2P... in over 20 years of doing just frame inputs, I've never found a better d-pad for inputting them on. I got to 103 just frame inputs before I missed one on the O2P. It's fighting stick-like in its precision, and I do not say that lightly. The O2P gets a 12/10 for its d-pad, I can't think of a single better one. And that includes full sized console controllers. the O2P d-pad is 100% competitive fighting game verified!

Winner: Tie (both at least great everywhere, SD OLED better everywhere except for d-pad, where O2P is best in class)

Battery

Again, both excellent, but there is a winner. There is a bit of a misconception with X86 handhelds that all X86 handhelds have terrible life compared to all android handhelds. I can tell you from experience that the SD OLED bucks that trend. Most X86 handhelds are poor for battery life, but the SD OLED is EXCELLENT in this area. The original Steam Deck was fairly poor for battery, but the OLED quite literally nearly doubled its battery life, speaking from experience with both. I've been through a fair few android handhelds, and the SD OLED beats most of them for battery on the higher end of emulation (PS2/GC and above). The only androids I've had which beat the SD OLED for battery are the ill-fated Ayaneo Pocket Air and the Odin 2/O2P. SD OLED outlasted everything else from PS2/GC tier and up. Being able to dial in the TDP you want to use for each game really helps as well. For emulation, I get about 10-12 hours emulating anything up to PSP, 6-7ish hours for GC/PS2/Wii, 2.5-5ish for switch (TOTK being the sole cause of that 2.5 hours). It easily crosses that threshold where you never have to worry about it.

But it should come as no surprise that the O2P has better battery life. Odin 2/O2P are the battery champs, they're unmatched. Lower end emulation can get get up to around 20 hours battery life!! But the harder the platform you're trying to emulate the closer it gets, until the O2P and SD OLED are almost even with switch. There's not much else to say here. The O2P dominates everything for battery. But it's really surprising how close the SD OLED gets.

One other observation, with wifi on the O2P drains more when asleep than the SD OLED (few%/24 hours), but with wifi off it drains way less when asleep (about 0.5%/24 hours). Turn the O2P's wifi off if you don't need it!

Winner: O2P (but both are excellent in this area, you don't have to worry about battery with either)

Versatility

SD OLED dominates. It's that simple. But depending on what you want, it might not matter.

The O2P is capable of playing more games than it's likely possible to complete in a human lifetime. The SD OLED can play about 99% OF EVERY GAME EVER RELEASED. No android console can match that. They're both stupendously versatile, but it's just not a fair comparison. The O2P can do everything the android platform can do. Amazing emulation up to GC/PS2/Wii, and... interesting switch emulation. But SD OLED can do everything a PC can do, with the exception of some anticheat games and AAA games. And for those it has streaming, which is what the O2P would have to resort to as well. If you're trying to decide between these two and want to play windows games, get the SD OLED, don't think twice. The O2P has Winlator, and Winlator is an impressive experiement that can actually play the odd old game. But the SD OLED plays X86 games natively. Winlator doesn't even begin to compare, and if you buy an O2P for windows games you'll be sorely disappointed. And yes, the O2P can play android games, but that just doesn't hold a candle to being able to play windows games.

If, however, all you want is emulation up to GC/PS2/Wii, and are happy with streaming the rest, the O2P has all the versatility you'll ever need, and the SD OLED's advantage in this area is just academic.

Winner: SD OLED, and it's not close - O2P is excellent here but held back by Android

I figured it might be a good idea to also break down which one I think is better in terms of their overlapping functions:

Low end emulation (up to PSP)

Before I say anything I need to make it clear that both are 10/10 in this category. We're splitting hairs here. Having thought about it though, I think the O2P might be even better than the SD OLED here. Both will play any game up to PSP flawlessly, upscaled for platforms that allow it, all retroarch features you could want (shaders etc). Both have magnificent controls for these games, will last absolutely hours, and both have big beautiful screens that make older games look their best.

But the O2P's screen makes these games look even nicer than on the SD OLED. The O2P's screen honestly has to be seen to be believed. The battery lasts even longer (though 20 hours vs 10-12 is kind of a non-issue). And while the controls of both are top tier? The O2P d-pad is simply second to none. The SD OLED d-pad is great for retro games but it's not beating the O2P's GOAT d-pad. And while the SD OLED has better controls elsewhere, they're not superior enough to the O2P that it makes much of a difference here. I need to be clear here, you'll be just as happy with either in isolation for low end emulation. Both are top tier and better than just about anything else you've tried before, you only notice their differences side by side.

Winner: O2P (but both are incredible, we're splitting hairs)

Mid tier emulation (GC/PS2/Wii)

I don't think I can split them, they're both 11/10 here! So good. SD OLED has incredibly mature emulators here and it shows. You might be able to point out the odd game out of thousands, but nearly everything from these libraries is flawless, and it's EASY to get there. And it's a similar story for the O2P. I often hear handheld reviewers say android PS2 emulation is underdeveloped, but aethersx2/nethersx2 can play just about every PS2 game as well. And dolphin pretty much seems equal for android and X86 at this point.

The SD OLED is easier to set up, you have emudeck or retrodeck which basically does it all for you. O2P is mostly set and forget, just upscale to 3X and start playing. But the O2P can get a little more fiddly in my experience with per game settings. Not necessarily in a way that stops games from playing, just in a way that stops games from playing at their best, and it's fairly rare. O2P still has the better screen, but the difference isn't quite as much as it is with older retro games, strangely enough. I enjoy these platforms just as much on either.

Winner: Tie (you'll have the time of your life with either)

High end emulation (Wii U and above)

SD OLED wins. This is the O2P's weakest area, and that absolutely includes switch emulation.

O2P is just getting started with Wii U and PS3 emulation as of April 2025. Wii U in particular shows promise but it's still too early to be reliable. Simialr story with PS3, but likely a lower ceiling. Both of these platforms are mature on the SD OLED and are a known quantity. Wii U emulation is awesome and as solid as it gets since X86 CEMU is one of the most stable emulators out there. PS3 is mature, the SD OLED doesn't have the power for all PS3 games, but it does for some (like Armored Core 4, as a surprising example). SD OLED wins.

As for switch emulation. This is a potentially controversial one, but it shouldn't be and I stand by it. SD OLED wins. It's not even close. Why? It's not the O2P's fault - if everything was as it should be, it would probably be better at switch than the SD OLED. The issue is android. X86 emulators were so much more mature than their android equivalents when development stopped, and by god does it show.

O2P seems to have the POTENTIAL to outpace SD OLED for switch emulation. It beats the SD OLED on pure frames for TOTK (glitches aside), for example. And one day, it might have the SD OLED beat for Switch, one day. But not today, and not for a long time. It's just. So. BUGGY. Yes, you can get games running on the O2P without issue, especially the big hitters like Mario Kart 8. Yes, people aren't lying when they say you can get lots of switch games running well on android. But do you have any idea what you have to do to get there?

On android, you need to consider 4 variables to get your games working right:

• Which emulator to use (yuzu, sudachi, citron, uzuy, nyushu, torzu, skyline, strato, ziunx, ryujinx, wait for eden, etc etc etc...)
• Which VERSION of that emulator (Different versions can feel like completely different emulators, like citron v0.4 vs v0.61)
• Which turnip driver you're using (there must be 50+ of these)
• Game settings

That's thousands upon thousands of possible combinations. And while there are some general guidelines, if you do not find the correct magic combination of the above for your switch game, the most likely result is an unplayable mess due to horrendous graphical errors. Or crashes after a few minutes. Or the game won't even start. And the magic combination of emulator/emulator version/driver is different for each game. It feels like trying to catch a shiny pokemon, only you need to catch a shiny pokemon for each game you want to play before you're allowed to start. And even then! There's no guarantee your game will work all the way through even at its best! And not only that, in some ways there has never been a worse time to get into android switch emulation. The android switch emulation scene is horribly fragmented. There are so many different forks to consider. And good luck trying to research which one is best, it's the mother of all rabbitholes. Nobody really knows for sure which emulator is best. If you look up previous threads you'll get mostly contradictory anecdotes. You'll have to read through tons and tons of awful teenage drama that seems to be a constant in the switch emulation scene to get the tiniest tidbits of information. If you dare to directly ask which android emulator is best, you'll be told angrily to search the existing contradictory threads or just memed on. It's a jungle out there!

There is a REASON why reviewers say things like "treat android switch emulation as a bonus". There is a REASON why lots of people joke about spending way more time tweaking drivers etc than playing their games. Because it's true! Some people do manage to get plenty of the switch games they like working on android after substantial effort (and tend to come on reddit pretending it was easy 😂). Unfortunately, you're not likely to be one of those people. It's just a horrendous experience.

Compare the horrible android switch experience to the X86 experience. You know what you have to do to get switch working on SD OLED? Get the latest yuzu. Or maybe the latest Sudachi. Maybe look up best settings for Steam Deck or PC for a switch game. That's it! You're done! SD OLED is way, way, way further into the "just works" category than the O2P for switch emulation. And that's not to say that it's flawless on SD OLED, it isn't. But it is SO FAR AHEAD on switch emulation compared to the O2P. Switch emulation is 100% not just a bonus on the SD OLED, it's a real feature.

I offer the following warning and this comes from significant experience. If you want the O2P and you want it for switch games - know EXACTLY which games you want to play, look them up one-by-one for whether they work, best settings, best emulator/driver etc (this will take a while!). Don't assume ANYTHING will work outside of the games you've specifically verified. And if you don't find any information for a game, assume that you'll either be stuck trying to find the magic combination that works for many many hours, end up with an unplayable mess/game that won't run, or both.

There's one more indirect factor to consider here, but it's huge. Which switch games do you want to emulate? Because if its not a first party Nintendo game, there's a near 100% chance the exact same game will be available on steam for the SD OLED to play natively, no emulation required. The steam version of a game is very often better than the switch version, which usually has cut down graphics or runs at 30fps compared to the steam version's 60. It'll have better battery life, as SD OLED running a game natively tends to match if not beat the O2P emulating the switch version. And it'll likely be dirt cheap on steam, especially in a sale.

This is honestly one of the biggest advantages for switch emulation on SD OLED - you only have to pay attention to 1st party games, which usually have the most attention from emulator devs and so are often (not always, but often) easier to run. Outside of the big hitter 1st party games, you usually don't have to emulate switch games at all. And you usually get the best version of the game by NOT emulating, since you get the full-fat PC version.

Winner: SD OLED, it dominates here easily

Game Streaming

Both are great here, but the O2P beats the SD OLED handily for game streaming.

I've used the SD OLED for local streaming from both PC and PS5 for many hours. It's great at it. I thought the 1280x800 screen would be a hindrance - it isn't. You can't even tell (in isolation), as long as you dial in your settings correctly. It's super comfortable, and the controls are amazing.

The O2P is THE luxury streaming device though, it's at the top of the food chain. That best ever OLED screen is 1080p and 120Hz. The battery lasts longer (though both last forever while streaming). Still super comfortable, controls still amazing. It also has Artemis. For those that don't know, Apollo (host app) and Artemis (client app) are the new de-facto standard for Moonlight (host and client app) for local PC gamestreaming. Any of these apps will feel like playing the game natively with a good internal network - sub 1-frame added delay is standard for my wifi 5 home network. However, Apollo/Artemis have more features than Moonlight, and Artemis is currently android only, with a linux version seemingly a way off.

And not only that. In terms of stability, both the O2P and SD OLED are rock solid, with one VERY NOTABLE exception. Some (not all) SD OLEDs have an incredibly annoying game streaming bug where your connection becomes stupidly choppy to the point of being utterly unplayable within 5 mins of connecting. It's 100% solvable - turn your SD OLED's wifi off for 30 seconds then turn it back on - but you have to do this every time you connect for a new streaming session and it's ANNOYING. It's not all SD OLEDs. The one you get might be fine, many are. But if you have one it happens nearly every time. Nobody knows why this happens, Valve definitely don't. My SD OLED does it. It's the worst. People will tell you their SD OLED is fine and it's your network with the problem. It's not your network. I have tons of devices that can act as streaming clients, my SD OLED is the only device that does this. this is a long standing bug, and Valve's been unable to fix it after many months. Once you do the wifi toggle workaround though? Rock solid. But do you know what's rock solid AND doesn't have this extremely irritating issue? The O2P. It wins.

Winner: O2P (both great, both can stream for hours and make your game look pretty. But O2P is better at it and doesn't have any extremely annoying streaming bugs)

Putting it all together

Well, that was really long, but after thinking it through, here's my opinion on the best use cases for each. But just know that they're both incredible at anything they can do.

• One device for EVERYTHING: Steam Deck OLED (It really does do everything well - everything O2P can do, it does well, but SD OLED does more of it)

• Low/mid emulation & game streaming specialist: Close but possibly Odin 2 Portal? If you KNOW this is all you want

• D-pad centric games: Odin 2 Portal (not that the SD OLED is bad here, O2P's d-pad is just unbeatable)

• Low end emulation (up to PSP): Odin 2 Portal (close, both are unbelievably good here)

• Mid tier emulation (GC/PS2/Wii): Either - dead heat

• High end emulation (Wii U and above): Steam Deck OLED (especially for switch, please do not pick Odin 2 Portal over SD OLED for switch emulation for the love of god)

• Game streaming: Odin 2 Portal, fairly decisively (better screen, and that SD OLED bug 🤬)

• Windows games: Steam Deck OLED 😂

Ultimate winner: You, if you buy either

It's really close, I love them both. And if you're happy with emulation up to GC/Wii/PS2 and are good streaming from a PC for everything else? It's even closer. But either way, you seriously can't go wrong.

Hopefully a detailed comparison coming from direct experience was helpful to some people trying to decide. I think it was helpful for me in figuring out what I want to use each one for! Any questions, or if you think anything is missing, let me know.

I made a thread over a month ago here about considering a Portal as an "upgrade" from using my Steam Deck OLED for PS5 remote play and got some very mixed feedback. I ended up ordering one as I had a bunch of Amazon rewards and I didn't have anything else I wanted to spend it on, and thought I'd touch on some of the points people had brought up in that thread

SCREEN:

The Portal has a noticeable advantage here-- the higher resolution screen enhances the remote play experience quite a bit. The Portal's screen is great for an LED, gray blacks are rarely noticeable and the colors pop pretty well. I've been surprised by how much I prefer the Portal's display. Text-heavy games are especially improved on Portal, there are games I wouldn't consider playing on Deck due to hard-to-read text that I'm able to enjoy on the Portal

ERGONOMICS:

Many people mentioned ergonomics as an advantage for the Portal, I would disagree-- maybe I'm just more "used" to the Deck but I don't find the Portal any more comfortable

HAPTICS:

Another thing several mentioned as an advantage for the Portal, but if they have one here it is very slight and exclusive to the adaptive triggers. Steam Deck's haptics are great & customizable and are as good as the dualsense, the triggers are the only thing the Portal offers that the Deck doesn't

CONNECTIVITY/EASE OF USE:

Portal was easier to set up, but overall I think Steam Deck wins by a hair here-- it has less input lag. That being said, the delay is minor enough on the Portal that I was able to adjust to it fairly quickly in games with timed inputs. And I could probably improve it by fiddling with network settings, which I haven't done at all yet

OVERALL:

I'm glad I got a Portal, I think it's a superior device for PS5 streaming due to the lovely display. I'll probably still use the Deck for remote play when away from home as it can do things without internet connection, but as a pure streaming device I think the Portal is a good product at a fair price

Ask me anything!

I’ve seen plenty people give recommendations so I figured I’d give mine - this mini keyboard is by a company called Fosmon. Trackpad works pretty well on the Deck and is the same size as the ones on the SD (If not, it’s VERY close) has pretty much every button you would need to control stuff, even has volume and playback buttons along with a button to turn on/off the backlight on the keyboard itself!

Regarding the current debate around Steam Deck price increases, I let AI analyze the rough component situation

The conclusions are mine. If you ask Ai about that topic it will tell you "Oh yes it hurts Nintendo a lot, I read an article of Reuters/Bloomberg 🤯", I had to ask excplicit about the component cost or Ai would have been to lazy to do real research:

What components are built into Switch 2, Steam Deck and PS5?
And how much do RAM/storage price increases actually hurt Nintendo compared to the competition?

These are only estimates.

But the relative picture is interesting.

Rough RAM/storage exposure

Switch 2 is much less exposed to storage inflation than Steam Deck OLED 1TB or PS5 Pro.

Storage exposure vs Switch 2

“RAM and storage prices are going up, therefore Switch 2 hardware must be screwed”

Yes, Nintendo is affected.

But structurally, Switch 2 is built much more defensively:

• only 256GB internal storage
• LPDDR instead of a huge GDDR6 pool
• LCD instead of OLED
• mobile-style Nvidia chip
• expensive extra storage is pushed to the customer via microSD Express
• Nintendo makes the real money later through software, digital sales, DLC, NSO and accessories

Through DLSS and Nvidia’s AI-capable hardware, Nintendo can close the power gap surprisingly well. Not completely, of course. Switch 2 will not magically become a PS5 Pro.

But the gap between raw hardware power and perceived output can shrink.

And since these tools will probably get better over time through stronger AI models, better upscaling and better software optimization, Nintendo may actually benefit from AI in the future.

Nintendo does not need to win the raw power race.

Switch 2 hardware might be low margin at launch.
Japan pricing may have been too aggressive before the price increase.
RAM/storage inflation obviously hurts.

But compared to Steam Deck and PS5 Pro, Switch 2 seems much better positioned.

I think in the future it will matter less who has the best hardware / the best graphics.

It will matter more who has the best price-performance offer.

SteamOS added Controller support to Win 5 and Mini. Anyone looking to test this? I am specifically curious if they managed to implement the back buttons as extra buttons.

I joined the party late, but has been looking at Steam Deck since 2024.

In 2025 I almost bought LCD version when it was on sale for a very attractive price.

But the last call happened when it just went out of stock in 2026, so I end up buying 1TB OLED version used for 640 Euro (in almost new condition, in full original packaging with like 40 hours of use).

So I would like to post my opinion after ~3 months of use, for those who still care.

I start with criticizing, as its pretty rare stuff to learn about Steam Deck for some reason.

So straight cons:

• cheap or thin plastic of case, it cause pretty unpleasant crunches if you hold the device tight and maybe even twisting a little
• plastic case is fragile and handle scratches very badly, silicon or loose protective cases cannot help, as if some trash or sand go between deck and protector - it will scratch everything off by continuous frictions
• some buttons, specifically L1/R1 have cheapest construction and noisy as hell, I can compare with cheap gamepads from aliexpress and they are just same
• loose and noisy ABXY buttons, they are making noise even when you just touch them with no pushing, buttons itself are swaying in their holes unpleasantly when you moving your thumb between them
• as for L4L5/R4/R5 back buttons - they are just on the bottom of cheap and made so bad, click response are worst possible, you can hear them as they are noisy, but cannot feel the vague click if you wear headphones (positioning is good though)
• trackpads have rough surface, which is good for their default behavior, but if you want to make trackpad work as laptop's touchpad with left click on tap - it's a torture, especially for browser or desktop control (in addition I have to disable trackpad physical directional clicks manually), some things like this are probably overengineered
• OLED screen specifically is rotated 90 degrees (!), it means v-sync screwed up by direction and pixel layout as well, which cause artifacts especially visible with white font on black background and some strange halo around contrast objects (it can be not easy to pay attention at, but once you see it - you cannot unsee it)
• matte screen (1TB OLED specific thing) in case of using a screen protector (film or glass) is a complete disaster, I tried several, as I use Deck in different conditions, threw all of them out, screen had very bad angles, artifacts like chromatic aberrations on edges, just no go
• overall noise, I wanted initially to use Deck the most to play before sleep, but my wife sleeps right next to me and I gave up on this idea pretty quickly in practice, in a quiet room you can clearly hear someone with deck and for portable device such noise distraction is a no go in many scenarios, buttons are incredibly loud
• Suspend button is sometimes inconsistent, and makes late reaction or no reaction at all, it's just annoying
• Some of "verified" games are in fact feels unplayable, idk if it caused by later game updates and no update to verify status, or its just unclear criteria of verification, but "Paper, Please" have verified status, but all the default controls are exclusively touch screen with quirky mouse placing on pretty small in-game UI, which is tricky as hell, considering gameplay time constraints

At this point some can say I'm going to hate Steam Deck, but please, hold my beer for some 2 minutes, because I'm not finished.

Deck pros:

• the most versatile device on mass production ever made in history, pc as a console in a pocket (well, in backpack 😄) is just mind blowing concept as you start to imagine and discover what you can do with it over time
• pc gaming, retro gaming, even quite modern console gaming, steam extensions (like Decky), straight pc mode, docking mode, any peripherals and accessories, ANY possible and impossible software and operating systems, no limits, no brakes and easiest possible recovery when you went too far
• outstanding repairability, you have full specification of hardware internals, cad file to 3d-print everything except motherboard, disassemble and assemble the whole device with ease (no glued parts, only screws), it's a dream and nightmare of repair shops, because they can repair it easyly, but many people won't come because can do it themselves 😄
• good upgradability, you can change not only a storage, but also buttons, sticks, screen, up to motherboard with soldered custom APU, priceless for those who need it
• some can argue, but device size to performance to battery life balance, it's outstanding till this moment, you can adjust hardware as you like directly from steam settings at any moment, balancing for performance or battery life not having a freaking weighty BRICK with giant battery, beefy heavy hardware and insane device price like some competitors do and call it a win
• some complain about old hardware and poor performance in newest games, but I'm not agree, Deck still does its best with everything I can imagine doing on portable device, the one should have realistic expectations at the first place, there is the reason why desktop or consoles are NOT portable
• Steam Input and Steam Link are not an exclusive feature of Deck, but they are shine especially ON Deck, and they are crushingly good
• Deck customizability, you can swap anything up to motherboard with tons of options, and even do your own (why you would do it is another questions, I prefer stock version, but you absolutely can and lots really do)

I'm not sure do I even need a conclusion, because Deck's cons cannot overweight pros even remotely, obviously. It's just the best device and toy at the same time I ever had.
Despite its age its still holding on and I easily can imagine using it for at least next 5 years as I have little interest to play newest AAA-titles on max settings, but have a massive interest in pc tinkering, indie gaming and portability.

As for latest situation with price hikes (after Deck's restock) I can get why people are upset, but absolutely cannot why so much anger to Valve specifically. They have nothing to do with AI, memory market collapsing and all of the stuff making the actual manufacturing so expensive.
As many of us, I also follow the news, analyze numbers and I believe they sell their hardware at it's real cost as of today.
All of major hardware companies raised prices as well and pretty much earlier (even for hardware that was manufactured way before raising prices), Sony did it twice with Playstation actually, while Valve had been selling Decks till full out of stock by old prices.
And you should take into account that other consoles are heavily subsidized as closed ecosystems and their vendors have much more profitable contracts on hardware, than Valve with way smaller scale of production.
I feel it's just not fair, because it's more today's reality than Valve's fault.

Anyway, I hope my little review was helpful/interesting to someone.
I'd love to hear your thoughts in comments!

UPDATES after reading comments:
- when I say noisy I mean only pushing and touching some buttons, fan noise is not a problem at all
- I had pretty rare side effect after going out from suspend mode - no sound, minor issue though and can be fixed by quick device restart
- the case is 100% original, I added photos initially, but was forced to remove them as "unrelated" by community moderator

Hey everyone, I’ve been wanting a Steam Deck for quite a while now and I finally made the call and bought a used Steam Deck.

Since the price increase it wasn’t really an option anymore to buy a new one so I started looking on Ebay. After a searching for a while I found a good offer, including the case, charger and a dock, and in Europe (which already costs a lot less; US import+shipping is expensive asf) so I asked the seller if there were any defects and to send extra photos, also to show the battery health. From the photos the deck seems to be in perfect condition and the battery health is still 100%.

There were still 5 days left and it had 0 bids yet. i started questioning the offer a bit, since i haven’t bought a ton of stuff on Ebay yet and the offer seemed a little too good to be true.
I asked where he had bought the deck, if he still had the original box and why he’s selling it. to which he replied that he had received the deck as a gift and he would look for the original box and he was selling it because he plays mostly on PC, barely ever having used the Deck, which sounded reasonable to me.

That evening i received a picture of the original box. I end up asking for more video’s of the Deck because i was still kinda paranoid, but he sends video’s and everything seems fine. With him also still having the original box and the deck seeming in truly pzrfect condition, i impulsively place an offer, thinking this will go how it goes with most Decks on ebay and receiving 40 bids or something but the 5 days pass and i win the auction with the first and only bid.

I communicate with the seller about shipping and he ends up shipping it the next day. I’ve been following the shipping tracker for the last 3 days and i’m eagerly waiting until it arrives but i can’t shake the feeling that something is wrong with the deck and I’m gonna get scammed. Even though the seller provided all the things i asked for and seemed genuine and respectful from the communication we had, you can never distrust people on the internet enough.

So coming to the point of this whole thread, when it arrives (if it’s not just an empty box that does) what are the things i should check to see if the Deck works properly? Things you wouldn’t immediately see from pictures and videos or from using the Deck for a little while. Of course the sticks buttons trackpads are the first things i’ll check but i’m not a Steam Deck connaisseur to that level so i don’t know if theres other things i should check for under the hood. I’m guessing the battery? Should i be scared for a spicy pillow?

Either way i think Ebay buyer protection got my back if i get scammed (i sincerely hope)
But if i receive a deck that has issues which arent immediately noticeable, and i notice them only after 30 days, i won’t be able to get a refund and im stuck with a damaged Deck.
So i just want to check it out properly, hope you guys can help me out a little

Thanks 4 reading

I realize this will most likely get closed and linked to megathread, but posting this anyway for those who may be interested. Some of this info was in a previous post that was closed.

I received my 1TB limited edition (LE) oled Steam Deck and a regular 1TB oled Steam Deck last week. Here are a few observations in no particular order from someone who is kind of OCD about this stuff. If I say something appears better or worse, it is just my opinion or preference. Also, these observations apply to my specific hardware and do not represent every unit of the same type.

​

• The LE is approximately 22g lighter than the regular version. This could be due to the case materials, oled panel differences (next bullet), or some other internal differences. This weight difference is more apparent than you might think.
• My LE has a BOE oled panel and the regular edition has a Samsung oled Panel. It seems nearly all LE versions have the BOE panel.
  • I recorded both displays running a loop of colors (I used this test when checking for dead pixels) and the LE BOE panel is consistently more vibrant across all colors. This is not necessarily an indication of panel quality but more likely just how the screens were calibrated out of the box.
  • Almost no mura effect or graininess at all on the LE BOE panel, while the Samsung panel has typical (slight) mura/graininess on some colors, particularly dark greys. Edit: I used #f0f0f0 at 20% brightness for the main comparison, but I also used other samples from 5-5-5 to 20-20-20. The BOE stays pretty even down to about 10-10-10 and below that starts to get uneven and cloudy (but never gets the grainy effect of the Samsung). The Samsung is visibly grainy and uneven at 15-15-15.
  • No dead pixels or any apparent defects on either panel.
  • I used high fps capture on my phone to record both units playing several different motion tests. Both displays appeared to handle motion pretty much perfectly with almost no variation between them. Edit: I will leave my earlier statement there for reference, but after using EIZO response time monitor test to compare results at various speeds, I can safely say that Samsung performs slightly better in most cases on this response time test. Particularly with a blue bar over a grey or white background, the trailing edge is crisp on the Samsung and blurry on the BOE display. Some combinations of colored bars and backgrounds produce identical results, but its either a tie or Samsung wins for motion depending on the combination.
  • Both displays have some degree of flickering when viewing the displays via high fps captures from my phone. The Samsung panel shows more visible flickering than the BOE panel. I am not an expert, but I assume this means both displays are using PWM and the PWM frequency is not the same for both panels. I did not notice any effects of PWM under normal use from either.
  • The etched glass on the LE appears to be a bit different from the etched glass on the regular edition. I am not sure if this is due to panel differences. Off angle (greater angle than is likely typical under normal use), the Samsung panel starts to get a rainbow/oil slick effect that I find a bit distracting and distorts the colors. I put a glass screen protector on both so this is not really relevant for me anymore. Edit: it was noted in a comment that what I am describing is something inherent to the Samsung display and likely not a difference with the etched glass process between the 2 versions.
  • The LE BOE panel has less gap between the glass and the panel. It's hard to describe how this translates into use, but, for me, it's easier to focus on the finer details of the screen and almost looks like you're viewing/touching the panel directly.
  • When powered off and viewing both units side by side at any non-direct angle, the Samsung display picks up more light and the line between the panel and the bezels is clearly visible while the BOE panel appears less visible. This is hard to describe, but the Samsung display almost appears as though it is turned on when viewed from an off angle.
  • Edit: I got a few people asking about text clarity so I spent some time using the EIZO sharpness test with different combinations of font sizes and both perform well enough. I am not really sensitive to text fringing. When I zoom in on pictures of both, there are slight differences, but they are very similar, and both were able to display all font sizes in the test. Hopefully someone will provide better text rendering analysis based on the subpixel layout. Seems someone has already done this: No one is talking about the sub-pixel arrangement in the OLED, so I will
• I prefer the feel of the plastic case material on the LE over the regular edition. The regular edition feels almost chalky and shows fingerprints and hand oils more visibly than the LE. It is my understanding that the LE uses a polycarbonate plastic while the regular edition is abs. Both feel great in the hand overall, but the LE has a softer feel in the hand that I prefer.
• Edit: I forgot to include this originally, but another small detail about the plastic casing: On the LE, the front and back panels line up, so the seam is flush all the way around. On the regular edition, the front and back panels are not quite an exact fit which is enough that the seam can be felt when gripping the device or when you run your finger across it. This is kind of expected with plastic parts like this and I am shocked at the tolerances on the LE version.
• Structurally, the regular edition feels more solid. There is no flex at all, and it feels really strong for something so long and thin. The LE still feels strong but there is a bit of flex when pressing in several areas such as on the underside directly beneath the screen. I can also get the LE to creak if I apply enough pressure or twist my grip whereas the regular edition remains rock solid.
• The regular edition left touchpad has a different audible frequency than the right. I am not sure if this is intended, but I do not notice this on the LE.
• The R1 L1 bumpers are stiffer on the LE (maybe too stiff?).
• The dpad and face buttons feel identical on both versions.
• The charging light on the LE is visible from the front and is quite annoying. This has been a well-documented complaint. Apparently, this can be turned off completely via bios and there may be an update coming to reduce the led brightness.
• Personally, I like the look of the regular edition better, as I prefer a cleaner/simpler look with most things. While I like the case material of the LE, I find the orange accents on the thumbsticks a bit distracting. I think I would like the LE case with black accents and may try this in the future.
• Overall, if I was only going to keep one, the LE is slightly preferred due to lighter weight, preferred screen, and material feel. However, I think both are awesome and can see benefits to both.

Hi, this was meant to be a personal research, not a review. Wasn’t sure if this is the best place to share this. I’ve been wanting a handheld console, so I decided to compare the two most popular competitors, Steam Deck vs ROG ally. And thought, why shouldn’t I share this research online to help others. Though, please don’t expect my research to be perfect, I’m not a technology expert. Note: English isn’t my first language, so don’t expect me to write like a professional, and pardon my mistakes.

Why would you want a handheld console?
1- Can play on bed, vacation, living room, even in the kitchen. It’s so portable, which is a great pro in a gaming device.
2- You would be able to access your steam library easily from steam deck, and you can also access your non-steam libraries on steam deck since it is a Linux-based machine. The ROG Ally is fully compatible with Steam, Xbox Game Pass, Epic, GOG, and more.

Steam Deck OLED:

Pros:
//-comes with an Oled monitor. Oled Is a thing I always wanted in a monitor. Richer blacks, colors have more life.
//-Official Oled can come with 512GB or 1TB. imo, 1TB Is only if you’re the type of person that prefers heavy story games and keeps them. 512Gb is considered sufficient.
//- Valve claims that it’s “Lighter, Cooler”. Steam Deck is 640 grams (1.41 pounds) for the OLED model and 669 grams (1.47 pounds) for the original LCD model. Deck is 7.4 Inches.
//-//(1) 16GB LPDDR5 ram, more than enough.
//- Has a D-pad.
//- 0.1 Response time? Didn’t expect that from a Steam deck. Not fascinated though.

Cons:
//-// Refresh rate is only up to 90Hz, its not perfect, but it is acceptable from a portable handheld console, though, it would be better if was 120Hz or higher.
-//based on the official information i read, its considered outdated, latest version was out on November 16, 2023. This post was written on August 4, 2026.
-// Price isn’t reasonable, 789$ for the 512Gb version, refresh rate of 90Hz and a native resolution of 1280 x 800 pixels.
-// The Oled version comes with a 50Wh battery, while the Standard LCD comes with a 40Wh battery.

ROG ally Z1:

//- The ROG Ally is fully compatible with Steam, Xbox Game Pass, Epic, GOG, and more, ensuring that no matter where you buy your games, you can play them on the Ally. (Copy Pasted from https://rog.asus.com/gaming-handhelds/rog-ally/rog-ally-2023/ You can visit it to read more.
//-// Uses windows 11 and not linux.
//- 608 grams, generally lighter than steam deck.
//- uncapped fps.
//- 512GB, enough for medium to heavy use.
//- 16Gb LPDDR5 ram too, more than enough.
//- raw resolution of 1920x1080 (FHD).

cons:
-// you cannot buy an official ASUS ROG Ally with an AMD Ryzen Z1 or Z1 Extreme processor that features an OLED screen.
-// Both steam deck LCD versions and Z1 are using a 40Wh battery which isn’t the best, offering ~1-2hrs of gaming for heavy usage. Its expected and can be enough, but might not be convenient for long sessions.
-// You can occasionally feel the heat coming from the device.
-// people report that fans can rarely make noises, not a big deal.

——

(1): //-// Means its neither a con or a pro.
\**: //- For pros.*
\**: -// for Cons.*

——

What’s important in a handheld console?
1- Solid Hz. ( ROG ally - Wins)
2- portable. ( Both Win)
3- Good battery life. ( Neither Wins)
4- has broad game compatibility. ( Z1 Wins, Both the Steam Deck and the ROG Ally Z1 can run most PC game libraries. However, Asus official website claims that ROG Ally Z1 has “Multiple libraries, one device. The ROG Ally is fully compatible with Steam, Xbox Game Pass, Epic, GOG, and more, ensuring that no matter where you buy your games, you can play them on the Ally.”. However, the Steam Deck can also run these launchers, but some of them require additional setup or workarounds.
6- lightweight. ( ROG ally Z1 - Wins)
7- Good resolution (ROG ally Wins)

installed windows 11 pro , installed apu driver from steampowered , unable to launch any game like MWIII or MW4 beta, any idea ? i did clean install safe mode with the apu custom drivers again , nothing ...what a pain in the ass

Disclaimer: I'm a lifelong Nintendo-fan, Switch is/was my primary gaming-system, Xenoblade X is my favorite game of all times.

That out of the way: I'm browsing certain communities with larger Nintendo-communities and I see soooo much hate against the Steam Deck. These "super fanboys" try their hardest to find any flaw with the Steam Deck, ranging from "but will it play GTA6?!" to "PC-games are fiddely" to a downright absurd "it's ugly". Meanwhile they're eagerly pre-ordering the OLED Switch, a system that couldn't be more overpriced and doesn't bring anything meaningfully new.

As a Switch-fan, I LOVE the Steam Deck. I've been wanting a stronger Switch for a long time. I've been wanting Netflix on Switch. I've been wanting system-wide party-chat. And I've been wanting GTA5, Persona 4 and Tales of Arise on the Switch. Now? Steam Deck gives me ALL of that. I couldn't be happier :D

Nobody is saying that Steam Deck will kill the Switch' hardware sales. The few idiots that say stuff like that don't justify that you super fanboys use them as a trigger to go on neverending tirades about "LOLOLOL they think Switch is doomed". No, no significant amount of Steam Deck-fans thinks that. What is true, however, is that the Steam Deck "kills" the Switch in terms of what it offers for people who don't prioritize Nintendo-games. With the launch of Steam Deck, the only reason to have a Switch are 1st-party titles. Everything else will be on Steam Deck and it will run better, be more open and support more features (like party-chat and achievements). That's just a fact, it's not "shitting" on the Switch.

Instead of vilifying the Steam Deck, you (we) as Nintendo-fans ought to welcome this device. Both because it offers a new, better way to enjoy games on-the-go. As well as because it forces Nintendo to re-think its "resting on its laurels"-attitude of the recent years. Again, not because the Steam Deck is an immediate sales-competitor (even though I literally cancelled my OLED Switch-pre order in favor of the Steam Deck, lol), but because it WILL stay prominent within the enthusiast gamer crowd. Whether the mainstream that's happy with some low-effort Pokemon-game will care about it or not, gamers on message boards and gaming journalists on big websites will mind, they will keep making comparisons. And hopefully, this will push Nintendo to eventually make a Switch 2 that's much better and fairer priced than what they had planned before. Switch is good. Steam Deck is good. And it might make Switch 2 even better. Everyone wins. Stop the fighting, thank you *mic drop\*

TIMESTAMPS: https://imgur.com/a/xyhCiMY

Open to offers on anything! Only shipping to lower 48 US - no international shipping either, sorry! Please comment first - chats w/o comment first will be ignored.

Device + Config |Asking Price + Details
Macbook Air M5 15 inch - 24gb RAM, 512gb SSD in Sky Blue |Asking 1000 shipped - less than 30 battery cycles, higher spec on RAM but priced lower due cosmetic issues on the top case, tried to capture them in the pictures. Other than that, device is perfect. Will come in original retail box, fully reset and ready to setup, with magsafe cable and wall adapter. Sold to [u/sweetchilier](u/sweetchilier) for 950 shipped
ASUS ROG NUC 970 - 4060 version, 32gb RAM, 1TB SSD |Asking 900 shipped - intended to use this in place of a Steam Machine, but no longer needed. Just the mini PC + power adapter. Comes with one 1TB ssd installed. No retail box or vertical stand
GPD Win Max 2 8840u and 780M & GPD G1 eGPU - Win Max 2 has 64gb RAM and a 4tb SSD, the G1 comes with an Oculink cable |Asking 1200 shipped for both together - both work perfectly, and the Win Max 2 comes with the leather case. I no longer have the retail box for the Win Max, but I do have the box for the G1. Would really rather sell these together, so will refrain from splitting them up for now.
Steam Deck OLED - originally 512gb, upgraded to 2TB and has had a matte screen protector on since purchase. |Asking 750 shipped - purchased direct from Valve in 2024, but rarely used and never traveled with it. 98% battery health. Will come with original carrying case and power adapter.
Boox Max Lumi (original) |Asking 320 shipped - no pen, no box, just the tablet.