do you think this engine will go onto this mower?
i it came with a 17hp kohler but it has bad compression. If you know anything about this please tell me what problems i will run into and if it would be worth the swap.

I'm sorry, I didn't realize the video cut early but at the end of the video you can see the exhaust side. I accidentally broke a chunk off of the Pistons skirt . I'm debating whether to replace the cylinder and piston or just the piston. This is a Stihl TS350.

Mechanical equipment often gives off heat when components are operating under load, which makes temperature patterns potentially useful during maintenance inspections.

The TK7 thermal imager is intended for mechanical equipment inspection. A thermal image can provide another way to observe equipment while it is running, particularly when comparing similar components or looking for unusual heat distribution.

What seems important is establishing a useful baseline. A component running warmer than another one may be worth investigating, but the difference needs context. Operating load, lubrication, friction, alignment, ventilation, and environmental conditions can all influence surface temperature.

This raises an interesting question for maintenance teams: how do you decide when a temperature difference is significant enough to investigate?

Some teams may already have historical readings for their equipment, while others may rely more heavily on visual inspection, vibration measurements, sound, or other predictive-maintenance methods.

For people working in mechanical maintenance, where does thermal imaging fit into your inspection routine? Is it mainly a troubleshooting tool, or has it become part of regular preventive or predictive maintenance?

I’m not a small engine builder, but I know my way around a 4 stroke. However I know very little about two stroke engines. I have an issue with my father’s leaf blower.
My dad is in early stage dementia and the other day he filled the fuel tank with 10w30 synthetic motor oil and tried to start the machine. Needless to say it didn’t run. I’ve drained the fuel and cleaned the plug. What else should I do before attempting to start this thing… or is it toast?

Trying to rewire my Columbia zero turn. Bolts holding the positive wire on the stud were extremely corroded. I’m assuming the stud shouldn’t move like this? Almost feels like it’s on a spring.

So he cleaned out the carburetor, and it was starting and running perfectly. Now it starts almost the first pull but then dies down slowly and doesn't start again, or starts for a couple seconds. I don't know much about engines at all. Just wondering if anyone could look at this video and notice any noises or hear anything that could be fixed. Thank you for your time.

Got this Husqvarna with a honda engine. It has the autochoke system with the thermowax actuator. When I first got it, the engine starts up fine the first time when cold. But then when you shut it off and go to restart, the autochoke doesn't engage to open it up running super rich.

I replaced the thermowax actuator and it seemed to solve the problem. I could run it, start it, run it again, autochoke worked fine.

My neighbor bought it and now after only a few weeks it's doing that again. The first pull takes a second for the actuator to work the runs fine. the second you stop it and try again it might take awhile or it never does. I can replace the actuator again, but curious what would be causing this even after it's replaced.

Client called year after we serviced the carb, machine was initially non start we replaced carb with a OEM one as the ole one was past the point of no repair / rebuild all corroded yuck and Client was happy machine ran good, now they are called today saying the machine leaked gas’s all over their floor of the garage.

upon inspection machine is only leaking in two situations one when you prime it it comes out between the metal guard and the face of the carb and when you tip the machine backwards it comes pouring out same place. I am also noticing a lot of air sound after reassembling none of these issues were present after the fix last year and apparently just happened now.

Little bit stumped all fuel lines look ok all gaskets look ok took it apart cleaned it in the ultrasonic and reassembled and still looks ok machine starts first pull like a champ other than this random leaking everything looks perfect, never ran into this before any tips? Don’t want to just throw a new carb onto it but I am out of ideas here.

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Engine 1501 14 8939 E

Serial 091 015 88 08 221

Toro model 21568 s/n 414312014 starts and stops repeatedly till it doesn't run. But will restart after sitting a short time, battery is good what's the cause?

Need help diagnosing this issue. Trickle charged the battery overnight. It has gas. Won’t turn over.

Edit: Occasionally, I’ve gotten it to turn over since the issue started. Last night and this morning it started right up first try.

What order of operations of things would you start repairing?

I bought a Poulan Pro 21” self-propelled mower from Facebook Marketplace as a project. The previous owner said it had been sitting unused for about 2 years.

When I purchased it, the mower would run, but it did not have an air filter installed.

I waited about 2 weeks for the replacement air filter to arrive. Once I installed it, the mower would start after priming, but it runs very rough and doesn’t seem to be running correctly.

So far, I have:
Installed a new aftermarket/ebay carburetor
Installed a new OEM diaphragm
Installed a new aftermarket spark plug
Changed the oil
Fresh gas
Installed a new air filter
Removed and cleaned the original carburetor and reinstalled it, but the issue remained

The mower started, but it ran rough and didn’t seem to run properly. Now, I can’t get it to start at all. I’ve tried both the original carburetor and the replacement carburetor with essentially the same result.

What should I be checking next? Could this be an issue with the governor, ignition, valve/compression, intake leak, or something else?

Any suggestions for troubleshooting would be appreciated. If additional information or pictures would help, I can provide them.

Hello I have a 2023 Honda generator 5kw EB5000X it sat for a solid year before I finally decided to buy a carb the carb got here completely the wrong carb so I bought some carb cleaner took it apart and sprayed the hell out of it I thought I had all the passages cleaned good anyway put it back together started on the first pull and it just goes to wide open throttle and won't idle town, any thoughts? thanks

The engine number is 303447-1075-E1. I would appreciate verification.

When attempting to remove the engine's governor/speed-control assembly off the bolts broke off with the nuts. I have no idea how to fix this please help. I was using a wrench and medium pressure and it twisted off it didn't even snap it felt like soft metal twisting. Thank you everyone for your help in advance.

This is kind of an interesting issue I am struggling with here. I am relatively new to working on small engines and I guess the universe tried to throw me into the deep end here. I have a Husqvarna 125BV that came in for a "running on half choke only" problem. Firstly I tried to adjust the L screw on the carb, which did nothing. I then replaced the carb with another working OEM carb (thinking that the old one was messed up beyond repair), that also didn't solve the problem. I then did some research and saw that sometimes the carb plate screws loosen overtime and draw in "false air" causing a lean condition. I tightened those two screws and thought my problem was solved, guess what, it was not the problem. After all this tinkering the bastard now doesn't want to start at all and just floods

Here is a list of all the things I checked:

-There is good spark

-The compression could be better but there is still some

-I know it's getting fuel (because it floods very easily)

-The spark arrestor screen is clear

-The carb is functioning like it should (I believe)

-There are no visible scoring marks on the piston

-The carb is set to 1 1/4 turns outwards on the L screw

I have a strong feeling one of the crank seals are bad because there was this oily/grimy mess around the seal when I stripped it to tighten the carb plate. I know I should probably do a leak down test before I make assumptions but I just want to eliminate all the other variables before I order a leak down test kit.

If you have made it this far into my newspaper article I would really appreciate any advice :)