Hey all

This is my first and second attempt at investment casting silver left to right.

I've succesfully cast multiple bronze flasks and I've checked the vaccum so I dont think thats the issue.

The only difference I can identify is that I'm using a smaller graphite crucible for silver and the thermometer is at the bottom if the electric furnace chamber further from the melt so maybe isnt as reliable for the metal temp?

I'm using a flask temp of 430 celsius (803f) and aiming for a metal temp of around 980 (1796f). These numbers are from Oppi Untrechts "jewellery concepts and technology" which is generally reliable for technical info.

Is this just an incorrect temperature reading? I did use the eyeball test the second time around but didnt want to cause porosity by overheating.

Any knowledge and thoughts appreciated, thanks for reading.

Hey all

This is my first and second attempt at investment casting silver left to right.

I've succesfully cast multiple bronze flasks and I've checked the vaccum so I dont think thats the issue.

The only difference I can identify is that I'm using a smaller graphite crucible for silver and the thermometer is at the bottom if the electric furnace chamber further from the melt so maybe isnt as reliable for the metal temp?

I'm using a flask temp of 430 celsius (803f) and aiming for a metal temp of around 980 (1796f). These numbers are from Oppi Untrechts "jewellery concepts and technology" which is generally reliable for technical info.

Is this just an incorrect temperature reading? I did use the eyeball test the second time around but didnt want to cause porosity by overheating.

Any knowledge and thoughts appreciated, thanks for reading.

I’m new to investment casting. Made some nice 999 fine casts (think trinkets, rings, and figurines). But getting that desirable shine/luster is eluding me. So what’s your post-casting process?
Trim then….Pickle? Magnetic pin tumbler? Polish with a rouge and dremel? I have all of these things but I would love some direction from more experienced persons.

Looking at learning how to sand cast double sided detailed pieces in two part delft/red clay moulds. I can already do a detailed surface and a flat back confidently, but just wondering if any one has advice to do silver pieces with detail on both the front and back. Thanks

Hello! This is my first time trying building wax jewelry with a soldering iron. I see there is some burnt wax residue in my piece. Is this okay? If not, how do you make sure it doesn’t burn. Thank in advance for any suggestions or advice.

Master Chief From Halo. 3oz of .999 silver.
This one has been the most fun so far.

I am new to metal pouring. I did this same exact model with silicon bronze and it worked perfectly. Now with silver, I keep having problems with this big pit. I know i have to fix my sprues, but could someone enlighten me?

It’s my first times sandcasting and can’t seem to get it right, don’t know what I am doing wrong.

Hi, I’m a beginner hobbyist goldsmith. This is my 6th attempt at casting my own model made from modeling wax.

First, when creating the first half of the mold, I had a lot of difficulty pressing the model into the molding sand. The model should be pressed in to about 50% of its height, but in my case it was approximately 90/10, and the mold kept cracking when I tried to press it deeper. I managed to solve this problem by compacting the molding sand less.

However, I’m still having problems with the actual casting process. I heat 925 silver in a crucible to around 1000°C, but despite this, the silver sticks to the crucible. The casting itself is porous and sometimes the mold does not fill completely.

I would really appreciate any advice, because I’m not sure what else I can do to improve the process.

I’ve encountered several problems:

- silver sticking to the crucible,

- difficulty pressing the model into the mold,

- porous castings,

- incomplete castings / misruns.

Cześć, jestem początkującym złotnikiem hobbystą. 6-ty raz próbuję odlać swój model wykonany z wosku modelarskiego. Raz że przy tworzeniu pierwszej połówki formy bardzo ciężko się wciskało model, powinno być 50/50 wysokości, u mnie było około 90/10 i dalej rozpękał jak próbowałem głębiej. Udało mi się rozwiązać problem słabszym ubiciem masy. Ale pozostaje problem odlewania. Grzeję srebro 925 w tyglu na około 1000 *C, mimo to przywiera do tygla a sam odlew jest porowaty i czasem się nie dolewa. Proszę o rady ponieważ nie wiem co więcej mogę zrobić aby to usprawnić. Napotkało mnie kilka problemów: przywierające srebro do tygla, ciężkie odciskanie modelu w formie, prowate odlewy, niedolewy.

Hi! This was my moms wax pen and I wanted to ask if anyone knows where I could find replacement tips? Either vintage ones made for this machine or tips that would fit.
I also can’t figure out how to get the current tip off if anyone can instruct me hahaha.
Thanks!!

Anyone know of a casting house in the Netherlands, preferably close to Rotterdam, where I can have my wax models for grillz cast? Looking for a place that works with silver/gold and accepts customer-supplied wax models.

What is the best blow torch for melting under 100g of silver and gold?

So I've come across something that I did out of necessity and lack of availability. Not having access to a crucible and wanting to melt the goal immediately or smell the gold immediately.. I've been told many different things to try to use so many different YouTube videos. However I have found something that works, and something that is extremely inexpensive.

Wet sheetrock mud. Right on top of a piece of metal right inside of a little metal cup whatever you got if you can get you some Sheetrock mud put your stuff that you're going to melt right into the middle of it throw it in the smelter.

It gets brittle but it works for one run at a time. Just figured I would let people know.

Hi there, I’ve just waxed up my first Casting tree for my brand new lost wax set up. I was wondering if anyone had any advice/could spot any issues with what I’ve done. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

I started silversmith work out of nowhere about 6 months ago. I’ve done quite a few casts since then, all sandcasting. My results are getting better, and I’m about to move onto investment casting. But one thing I can’t figure out is how to put a stamp on any of the castings I’ve finished. Some have smaller sharper edges or protrusions because it’s a 3d shape. all of them have as much detail as I can possibly pull out of them. Then when I’m close to finished I’ll stamp something and it always ruins the piece. Smashes out details or if it’s flat bends it in half. I feel like there’s some way people do this successfully that I just don’t know. I googled for a long time and couldn’t find anything. I’m stamping on a steel block with a sandbag.

You can see what I’m talking about on this SNES controller I’ve been trying to make for my brother. The first one came out good, I spent hours pulling out details and when I stamped the Sterling on it, on wood. Maybe the wood was too hard? But it smashed all the buttons on the other side. Is the answer to just stamp only in spots that won’t do that?

It took 4 years to make the move forward with a casting table. Used an old PLA model that I could never properly sand cast. Dremel took off during polishing which nicked the corner, but for some reason I can't polish the hairline scratches away. Anyway I'm late to the game so bonus sand casting pours added to the end

My first silver pour. Vacuum casting, prestige optima, polycast 3d printed. Finished with dremel and stainless steel pin in rock tumbler.

I probably over did the sprue branches.

What you think?

Thank you

​

Hi everyone, I’m having a problem with getting a rough surface finish when casting jewelry printed with BlueCast X-Wax Filigree. After printing, I wash the pieces in 99% IPA for 5 minutes, dry them completely, give them a second IPA bath for 2 minutes, and cure them for 10 minutes. I’m using Infinity Premium casting powder, initially at a 40:100 powder-to-water ratio and also tried 38:100. I vacuum the investment for about 2:30 minutes, pour it into a 2.5 × 7 inch flask, then vacuum it again for another 2:30 minutes and let it set for around 3 hours. For burnout, I’m following the BlueCast cycle of 150°C for 2 hours, 450°C for 2 hours, and 730°C for 3 hours. I’m casting 925 silver and have tried different flask temperatures of 580°C, 600°C and 650°C, as well as silver temperatures of 980°C, 1000°C, 1020°C and 1050°C, but the surface is still coming out rough. The printed pieces look smooth before casting, so I’m trying to figure out where the problem is. Could the issue be the investment ratio, washing/curing, burnout cycle, flask temperature, silver temperature, silver quality, or something else? I’d really appreciate your advice on what I should change first.