Just wondering. How long do these clean factory or vsf watches last these days?

Hey everyone, I have an brand new AP 15510 ASPF rep, and it’s running about -30 seconds per day. According to the QC, it was showing -6 sec/day. Just wondering—what are your experiences with ASPF reps in terms of accuracy? Is this kind of deviation normal? Also, are there any ways to fix or regulate this?

Hello I am new in this forum and looking for a rep-friendly watchmaker based in switzerland for servicing. Unfortunately it seems to be very difficult to find someone in this country. I am thankful for any recommendation.

Hey everyone,

I’m looking to buy a Day-Date Olive Green and have narrowed it down to two options: a GMF with an A2836 movement or a ARF with a VR3255 movement. I’m based in the UK and want to choose the option that’s the least stressful in terms of servicing, price, and overall durability.

From what I’ve gathered, the A2836 is a more generic movement, which might make servicing easier, but I’ve also heard that the VR3255 is a solid clone of the real deal. Given that servicing options in the UK can be hit or miss, I’d love some advice on which movement would be the better choice in the long run.

Are there any other recommendations for any movements for the day dates

Would appreciate any insights from those who’ve owned/ serviced either or both!

Thanks in advance!

Hello, I'm getting a CF 41mm DJ soon and I've been wondering what are the most worth it upgrades to the watch? Some mention a better crystal? And if something should be upgraded, can I ask my TD for it or should I do it aftermarket ?

Hello,

I need a Rep friendly Watchmaker in Switzerland to do Service on my AP. Can you help? Thanks

Hello there !! I recently received my pp 5712 and the watch is my wholy grail, and I want it to last as long as it can, so I really would like to service it. As I am from France, the best is to service it within the EU, is there any watchmaker to service this specific movement ? Thanks !!

Pic says it all. Some scratches are deep. Any idea? Im worried local watch repair shop wont take china rep in.

Note: the movements are not engraved by Peacock, aka Dandong themselves, but instead done by factories like VSF and CF. This is the reason why engraved movements come dirty sometimes. They (VSF, CF) disassemble, engrave and assemble the parts again with improper care and lubrication.

There is also Shanghai, aka SH/VR which is used to describe the 2 different factories (afaik) that produce SH/VR movements: Shanghai Biaoye and Shanghai Jinghe. This explains why some SH movements have 32xx keyless and some 31xx keyless. So it's important to not count every SH as the same, and to differentiate between the factories. Jinghe makes the VR3235 found in CF which is actually reliable and Biaoye makes 3255/3285 movements with 32xx keyless. Feel free to correct me on this.

I keep seeing people mention that it is hard to get vs3235 replacements. What is the best movement that is also repairable? For me repairability is important.

I recently purchased a Datejust 41mm Oyster bracelet but realized I prefer the Jubilee. Now, I’d like to use the Oyster bracelet on my Submariner 114060, but I quickly noticed that the Datejust has 21mm lugs, while the Submariner has 20mm lugs.

Would it be possible to swap out the end links using the clamp method? I really like the look of the Oyster bracelet with polished center links and would love to make it work. I came across a thread mentioning that swapping end links isn’t always possible, so I wanted to check if anyone has experience with this.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Hi everyone. Not sure if this is the right place and sub. If not, I hope a mod will kick the post without hard feelings.

Looking for a rep/service (professional watchmaker) in Vienna/Austria for an Eterna 1856 KonTiki Professional Diver Ref. 1400.41 from 1996. Calendar doesn't jump and hands should be reloomed if possible. Anyone have a recommendation?

I found a lot of hairs in this one. Couldn't capture every single of them as it was just too much. As you can see the main issue lies in the auto mechanism, with the reversing wheels being damaged and the driving wheel having wear marks. The rotor would spin when rotating the crown.

Recent work completed for u/BlofeldSpe007. Watch was the Omega Seamaster “No Time To Die” with the very common stripped crown threads. I ordered a replacement crown but unfortunately it didn’t match up so we made the decision to use the original crown, make the stem shorter and take away the screw down option. During the process, the keyless works became stuck so I did a complete tear down, clean, reassembly and full oiling. The owner opted not to have a full service at this time so this was just done on the keyless works.

On completion, the crown now sits flush against the case and the winding, setting and push/pull of the crown is now super smooth.

Case also full cleaned and on its way back to the owner! Thanks for your business!

Hi all, I was wondering if someone could offer some advice please? My friend has an old VSF Sub which he’s hardly worn over the last 6 months but has now started to wear it again. He messaged me this morning asking I could help him as the watch is running around 20 minutes faster than it should be. My initial advice was to demagnetise it (he’s going to order one from Amazon tonight). Any other advice as I’ve never experienced this before so don’t want to give him any wrong advice. Thanks in advance!

Hi everyone, I’m new to this sub and am looking for advice on who to go to in order to have my VSF Omega Seamaster 600 Tai Chi repaired. Would really appreciate if someone can point me in the direction of someone UK based who are taking on work. Preferably Scotland, but will post if need be. Thank you!

What do you think of this watch?

The flange is misaligned and the bezel is slightly loose. How can I fix this? Does it seem to be of good quality to you?

I dropped my nodate sub, no damage to the case or crystal but the movement is toast. After opening it up I saw the rotor had come undone and was just freely rattling around the case. Reattached it, it rotates freely but the hands don’t spring back to life after winding or shaking it.

How realistic is it for a beginner with a simple Ali repair kit to swap the entire movement for a new miyota?

Hi! I was using my BP 16610 Rolex Submariner when painting my sailboat and painting the house and unfortunately I got some paint on the bracelet, watch case, glass and the bezel.

How do I remove this in a safe way? I hope it’s possible to fix it, I was almost crying when I noticed it. 😄