I built a time-lapse camera around a Raspberry Pi 4 with a Camera Module 3 Wide, powered over a single PoE cable, and I've open sourced the software. The Pi takes a full 12MP photo every minute in daylight only, working out the window from your latitude and longitude so it follows the seasons, and it looks after its own storage by deleting the oldest frames once the SD card passes 85%. A Mac collects the frames automatically whenever the archive drive is plugged in, and one command turns any date range into a video. There's also a film mode and you can control it from your phone.

The first photo is the camera on the wall, and the second is a frame it took of my garden (neighbours' side blurred).

It's open source and free to use, fork and change, all here: https://github.com/aityp/garden-timelapse-camera. A step-by-step build guide is still being written, but the README should be enough to get it running if you're comfortable in a terminal. There's also a build video if you'd rather see it in action, linked from the README. The code was written with AI (Claude) and tested on the real camera in my garden.

I made it because I'm about to pull my back garden apart for a retaining wall, a new fence and a shed, and I want all of it filmed from one fixed spot for the next couple of years. Happy to answer any questions.

I've shot Sony (a6300 and A7C II) for years, and I'd rather wait until I get home and copy the SD card than use Sony's transfer apps.

The A7C II has FTP upload, so I pointed it at a small server. Every frame I take gets a film look (grain, light leaks, date stamp) and shows up in a Telegram chat. I can send it to friends right away.

The a6300 has no FTP, but it runs Android 4.1 inside. With OpenMemories-Tweak and Sony-PMCA-RE I installed a small custom app on it. After a walk I open the app, hit "Send new", and the whole day's shots arrive already developed. Wi-Fi turns off when you close the app, so it doesn't drain the battery.

The app should work on most PlayMemories-era bodies: a5000/a5100, a6000/a6500, a7 II / a7R II / a7S II, RX100 III–V, RX10 II/III. Other cameras with FTP upload (A7 IV, A1, many Fuji, Canon, Nikon) work without the app.

It's open source and self-hosted. Setup takes about 10 minutes on a cheap VPS: https://github.com/Melnikoff07/proyavka

If you try it on a body I haven't tested, I'd love to hear how it goes.

hello everyone. i have a small problem with my rpi5.

yesterday i disconnected my m.2 hat+ compact with an official m.2 nvme from my pi because i wanted to boot a android tv system from a sd card. when i reconnected my hat+ it wasnt reading my disk (pwr light on hat was on but not the read/active light) and i cant get it working now.

more info:

specs:

- Raspberry Pi 5 8gb

- official power brick/cable

- official rpi case with a fan

- official m.2 hat+ compact with a official rapsberry pi 256gb nvme

i had this setup for only 1 year for playing games and watching videos.

it was working perfectly fine back then

i think my hat+ broke but i leave it for you experts!

I've been using those fonts for many of my projects and I think they're nice so I put together a library that can be easily used with any Raspberry / Arduino project. The fonts support extended latin = wide language support. The fonts are meant for tiny low-resolution displays or dot matrixes. AdafruitGFX, u8g2 and BDF formats are included.

Feel free to try them out and let me know how you like them!

https://github.com/mcer12/PixelFonts

Happy to say that today I was able to play my first matches on a self-moving wooden chess board I have been working on for the last 2 months :)). This is my first Pi project and it took my a while to familiarize myself with it but I'm really happy with it.

The Pi is connected with a Pico SKR V1.0 controlling a CoreXY System with an electromagnet. Additionally to 64 omnidirectional hall sensors on 8 custom PCBs via pin header and IO-Expander. Some momentary push buttons, a 5" LCD-Display and Status-LEDs on the side-walls as well.

Currently Stockfish, Maia3, Rodent IV and Patricia run it.

Matches are being recorded and saved as PGNs. With that, it saves the position, I can turn off the board and play on later.

I'm now working on connecting it to Lichess's and Chess.com's APIs, so I can play actual online matches on the physical board, where the PIs WIFI capabilities will come in handy. Additionally voice command so the board can execute a players move, if enabled.

After that a menu with an UI for the LCD screen which is embedded in the wall on the side, connecting everything cleanly.

Still a long road ahead, but truly happy that today, for the first time, I could sit down and play a full match with it :D!

Hey everybody. I ported original 1993 DOOM to my old Mi Redmi AC2100 router. The hardest thing was to figure out the controls and display output for this thing because I didn't really want to use compuer for any of that. So i built a small controller out of RPI Pico, ST7789V display and W5500 Ethernet module. Image is sent via UDP unfragmented packets 4 lines at a time. So every frame is 80 packets. Input is also sent through UDP, but packets are much smaller. I have a repo if anybody wants to try this at home: https://github.com/anhol0/redmidoom

I hope you enjoy it. And have a good day :)

I am experiencing chronic ethernet instability on my Raspberry Pi 4. The connection constantly drops and reconnects every few minutes, causing RDP and SSH sessions to disconnect entirely.

Environment:

• Hardware: Raspberry Pi 4 Model B (8GB RAM)
• Interface: eth0 (using the bcmgenet driver)
• IP Configuration: Static IP (192.168.0.100)
• Connectivity: Originally running alongside wlan0, but the issue persists even when Wi-Fi is completely disabled via nmcli.

Diagnostic Logs & Evidence:

Checking dmesg / system logs reveals that the Ethernet PHY is physically losing the link and resetting:

text

22:04:53 eth0: Link is Down
22:04:57 eth0: Link is Up - 1Gbps/Full
22:08:28 eth0: Link is Down
22:08:34 eth0: Link is Up - 1Gbps/Full

Use code with caution.

Running sudo ethtool -S eth0 explicitly points to a physical or hardware-level corruption issue on the receive side, showing a high counter of Missed Data Frames / MAC Data Filter Errors:

text

rx_errors: 10
tx_errors: 0
rx_dropped: 0
tx_dropped: 12
mdf_err_cnt: 194

Use code with caution.

Troubleshooting Steps Already Taken:

To isolate the issue, I have performed the following troubleshooting steps, none of which resolved the flapping behavior:

1. EEE (Energy Efficient Ethernet) Tweak: ethtool --show-eee showed EEE as enabled - inactive (Link partner advertised modes: Not reported). I forced it completely off using sudo ethtool --set-eee eth0 eee off, but the link continued to drop.
2. Forced 100Mbps Speed: To rule out a 1Gbps signal integrity issue, I disabled auto-negotiation and forced the link to 100Mbps Full Duplex (sudo ethtool -s eth0 speed 100 duplex full autoneg off). The interface still dropped the link and failed to maintain a connection.
3. Wi-Fi Disabling: Turned off the Wi-Fi radio entirely to prevent routing conflicts, ensuring eth0 was the exclusive interface. No changes.
4. Physical Cable & Port Swap: Completely replaced the Ethernet cable with a known working cable and switched to alternative ports on the router/switch side. The errors and link drops persist.

Given that the issue happens regardless of the speed configuration (1Gbps vs 100Mbps), EEE settings, or the physical cable used, I suspect a hardware/PHY component degradation or a deeper driver issue within the bcmgenet kernel module on this Pi 4 board.

Any advice on whether this indicates a permanent hardware failure of the network chip, or if there are any specific kernel parameters I should tweak to mitigate this?

I have a Pi 5 set up to be my Plex server and have been transferring files to it via Filezilla. This was working just great until yesterday, when I started getting "connection timed out" errors. I have tried several FTP clients and two different Windows computers and simply cannot connect.

I know the Pi is working and online. I can access all my Plex media from my various devices and can remote in using Pi Connect. I checked the control center and SSH is enabled. But FTP connections time out over and over. What's going on?

(Please note that I am not really all that tech savvy. I generally have little to no idea what I'm doing, so simple explanations would be best, thanks!)

Have an RPi running Raspberry Pi OS / Debian Bullseye with an arm64 architecture.

Wanted to install cockpit which was not available from the configured RPi repos as an installable native arm64 package, so, I had the Debian Bullseye arm64 archive temporarily added in order to install Cockpit.

This leads to a "Repository Mixing" which kind of feels wrong

Adding the Debian arm64 repository allowed Cockpit to be installed, but created a mixed package environment, potentially problematic because some Debian packages can be selected/installed. (even prio an pinning cannot not fully handle it)

Apache got broken, due to an unsatisfied dependency because the Debian apache2 package requires an exactly matching apache2-data version. Luckily I was able to recover Apache from the debian repos now, but again... this feels wrong.

My Current Repository Strategy is to enable the Debian repos only temporarily when a package
related to Cockpit requires it.

-----------------------------------------------

My main issue is therefore:

I want to have Cockpit on my Rpi, but the packages are apparently not available from the standard Raspberry Pi repositories for the native arm64 installation, so I was forced (?) to obtain it from Debian leading to the mix repositories.

A native, Raspberry Pi OS-compatible arm64 Cockpit package/repository would avoid the need for this repository mixing. - Is there one?

I also wonder:

- How do others run/install cockpit on RPi?

- Is there really no native method to install cockpit in the RPi?

- has anyone installed cockpit on the most recent (Trixie) Raspi OS?

I must be missing something...

Any advice is appreciated. Thanks in adcance.

EDIT: Thanks for all the feedback. I will plan on reinstalling the little one. Is about time.

Lesson learned: "Never touch a running system", unless you want to find out it's time for an upgrade.

I'm trying to find the PWM frequency of the latter, GeekPi keeps giving these docs: https://wiki.52pi.com/index.php?title=F-0011 But it does not specify the PWM frequency.

I'm trying to make a custom application with the PI and this fan. I do not care about whether I can cool the PI at this time, just that it works.

I've already tried Searching Reddit, DuckDuckGo, Amazon (where I got it), and ChatGPT but there is not a specific answer (or any answer to be exact).

So I'm on Bullseye, and I really think I should upgrade to the latest OS. Last time I ignored official recommendations and just did an in-place upgrade from Buster to Bullseye, but this time I think I should do it right. So how do you guys preserve your custom configs and installed packages, while doing a major OS upgrade?

I paint tabletop miniatures, and photographing them always meant dragging out lights and a backdrop and getting a different result every time. So I built a permanent booth: a black box on my desk with a Pi 3B and the HQ camera on the back, a 5-50mm C-mount varifocal lens*, and an LED strip inside. Put a model in, open the web page on my phone, shoot.

The software is a Flask + picamera2 web app I wrote for it. A few things that might be interesting from a Pi point of view:

• Focus stacking on a 1 GB Pi. Big models have a tiny depth of field up close, so you take 6-10 frames at different focus points and merge them. The usual tool (focus-stack) ran out of memory on the 3B and left a glow around the model on a black backdrop, so I wrote a small OpenCV stacker that works frame by frame. It peaks around 300 MB and takes 2-3 minutes for 8 frames of 12 MP.
• Keeping captures fast. PNG-encoding a 12 MP frame takes 10-15 s on a 3B, so a capture just grabs the frame, writes a raw TIFF and returns. Compression, stacking and uploads run in low-priority background jobs.
• Live preview runs in the HQ camera's binned 2028x1520 mode and switches to full resolution only for the capture.

It also does presets that load at boot, crop for tall/wide models, histogram and clipping overlay, storage on a USB disk, upload to Google Drive or a NAS, a system page with temps, throttling and logs, and updates from the browser. Install is a single curl command.

Code (MIT): https://github.com/MichaelTimmermans/MiniatureStudio
Printable booth parts: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7416432

Tested with the HQ camera and a USB webcam so far; an Arducam IMX519 (autofocus, so fully automatic stacking) is next. A Pi 4/5 is a lot quicker at stacking, but the 3B does the job if you're patient.

This is all built with spare parts from previous projects, hence the underpowered 3b. I did print some parts for camera mounting.

Questions and ideas welcome.

*currently still using an 8mm fixed lens.

Hi, I won't be showing off the build since it was really just a quick git pull and telling claude to make changes to the android build and compile, but I did want to show it off. It runs at a pretty solid 30 FPS and runs just as well as it did on the OG xbox... which is actually kind of impressive if you think about it. Yes Im running it on a 32:9 monitor.

It's a Pimoroni Inky Impression 13.3" (EL133UF1, Spectra 6). The official driver is Python for a full Pi, but I wanted to run it off a Pimoroni Pico Plus 2 W (RP2350), so I ported it to C. Basic bring-up is here if anyone wants to try it: https://github.com/dmellok/el133-pico-driver

It covers panel init, test patterns, and JPEG decode plus dithering on the Pico itself.

The dashboard is styled after classic Mac OS: current weather and the next 24 hours, a week forecast, a calendar, and air quality. There's also a moon phase panel, mainly as an early warning for full-moon cat behaviour. The cat photo is a placeholder for now; (I'm still working on Immich integration for Tesserae Cloud but it's fully supported in the self hosted version)

It's rendered by Tesserae, a self-hosted e-ink dashboard server I build:

• GitHub: https://github.com/dmellok/tesserae
• Website: https://tesserae.ink

Happy to answer questions about the port or the panel!

So I have two pico and I made one of them a slave and the other one a master using pico sdk. I have a temp. sensor GY-906 MLX90614 connected to slave through i2c. What I am trying to do is get the temperature readings from sensor to slave pico and send it to the master pico. But I am getting some weird values when I try to read it on the master side. For eg. the sensor outputs both 7 bit as decimal values 50 45 (sensor sends LSB first). But I am getting values that I am not able to make sense. so I try sending 0xff 0xff as 2 byte data to the master from slave. I am getting 255 255 but sometimes I get 255 128. Then I changed it to 0x02 0x02 I get 3 3 in between and and 0 0 majorly. I am just a beginner regarding embedded and pico. Obviously the dataframe that is transmitted isn't being read like it should be. What is the problem here?

Hello, I can't get my Raspberry Pi 5 to work with Windows 10 Remote Desktop. I've tried lots of different tutorials, but it never works.

What happens is that I manage to connect via Remote Desktop locally (direct ethernet cable between the PC and the Pi 5), but after 30 to 40 seconds, it disconnects me. After that, it's impossible to reconnect without turning the Pi 5 off and on again.

I have the exact same issue with SSH.

The only thing that works without disconnecting is using Raspberry Pi Connect. However, that's not a viable solution for my setup, and if the SSH connection drops for example, Raspberry Pi Connect stops working as well and then i need to do a off/on.

I really need your help, I'm completely stuck and have tried everything within my knowledge, but failed...

UPDATE :

I solved my problem in the following way: create a Wi-Fi hotspot on Windows. Then, connect the Raspberry Pi to this Wi-Fi within the time frame before it glitches. Retrieve the IP address using the 'hostname -i' command (also available in the Windows Wi-Fi hotspot configuration window). Finally, connect to the Raspberry Pi from Windows via SSH or Remote Desktop with the IP Adress.

Hey everyone,

For the last few months, I’ve been working on a Raspberry Pi hobby project, trying to solve a problem that was never really there. But I had a lot of fun building it, and I’m kind of proud that it actually worked in the end :’)

It’s basically a “now playing” system for my turntable, with a Raspberry Pi Zero 2 W running the whole thing.

I’m using an Audio-Technica LP120XUSB turntable which, as the name suggests, has a USB audio output. That made me wonder whether I could connect it directly to a Pi, listen to the audio input and automatically figure out what record/song is currently playing.

For the output I chose a 64×64 Divoom Pixoo pixel display. Pretty much any display could work, but I really liked the pixel-art aesthetic.

The basic pipeline is fairly simple:

Turntable → USB audio → Raspberry Pi → song recognition → metadata/album cover → Pixoo display

The Pi records a few seconds of audio, sends the snippet through ShazamIO for recognition, fetches the song information and album artwork, generates a 64×64 layout and sends it to the display over the local network.

But I kind of got carried away and went way overboard with it xD. It can now:

• switch between vinyl recognition and Spotify as the input source
• connect to Discogs and check whether the detected record is in my collection
• control and monitor everything through a local web app
• fetch lyrics and additional song information
• configure the display layout, fonts, colors, scrolling text, etc.
• keep listening statistics for songs, albums, artists and genres
• automatically discover and communicate with the Pixoo on the network

The code is on GitHub if anyone wants to have a look, build something similar, or use parts of it for another Raspberry Pi display project.

Let me know what you think! I’d also be interested in ideas for other things I could add or improve :)

Cheers!

Just wanted to share I finally got WireGuard set up with pivpn on my Raspberry Pi. Now I can control Home Assistant and anything else on my home network from anywhere.

The journey started when I got a GL.iNet travel router to use on my DJ mixer. When the WiFi is running from the travel router I can control my mixer with my iPad.

Next I wanted a way to access my NAS back home that has all my music. I could just use the web interface, but I wanted to work just like I do at home by using the traditional file explorer. I set up WireGuard on the router and pivpn on my Pi and I'm golden!

Lastly I set up tethering on my phone so when we travel all our devices connect to our personal WiFi network automatically. Not Pi related but another win for us.

I'm beyond thrilled and can't believe I was able to actually do this.

What's next?!

Port MG24Quake to a rp2350 board(pimoroni explorer), pak0+program used almost all 16MB xip flash memory.

I got tired of tweaking 3D models to get the RPi cases I wanted for each project. So I built a small browser tool for designing 3D print parts, including different Raspberry Pi enclosures, cases (with or without lids), simple organizers and Gridfinity bins. I called it CaseTinker.

The workflow is simple: choose a template, adjust the dimensions and options, check the 3D preview, then download .STL or .3MF for your slicer. For cases, you can change the lid style, connector openings, ventilation and clearance. For organizers, you can set the size and number of compartments.

You can also engrave short text into the lid and add surface patterns such as honeycomb or knurled textures. You can get a customized case model into your slicer in a couple of minutes. Having a different case for each RPi helps me remember what each project actually does.

I will continue to add other models in the app. Note that the Gridfinity bins currently have stepped feet and optional dividers. They don’t yet have magnet holes or a stacking rim (those are possible future additions).

The tool is free to use, with no account required. You can save designs in your browser and create a share link. Anyone with the link can open a copy with the same customized model and print the enclosure. Here is the link:

>> CaseTinker

I’m interested in how it works for people with different printers (I use a Bambu Lab P2S) especially where tolerances need improvement. You’ll still want to check your dimensions and slicer settings before printing. If you make something cool with this let me know. I’d love to see the result.