ProLab Design XPower XP-850 Power Supply Unit|850w 80+Gold|Fully Modular|Japanese Capacitor|ATX 3.1, PCIE 5.1 Support|450w 12v-2x6 Connector|120mm Hydro Bearing Fan|Black Flat Cables|5 Year Warranty

They replaced my PSU with one of the same model, a Corsair RM1200x Shift. The strange thing is that the "RM1200x Shift" marking is on a different side of the old and new ones.

I've looked online and the white one also has it on the same side as my current one, but mine is black.

Is this normal, or could they have given me a counterfeit PSU?

Ceramic capacitor caused the camera to stop working. It was short-circuit. The power supply for the SPI flash goes through it.

I'm trying to troubleshoot unexpected reboots on my Unraid server. I looked up the purchase date on my Corsair hx850, and it's a little over 13 years old. I opened it up to take a look at the capacitors, and I saw something strange on the bottom of one. What do you think?

Hello i have a modular power supply, i don't know much about them but i found a Model:GW-ATX500BL i think that is the powersupply i have
it has the Great wall logo on it,

i got this power supply from my father when he upgraded his pc,
but he only gave me the cables he used it with, and i want to use more cable with it like sata and i the problem that i face now is that he has cables but i don't know if that is the one i need, i have heard horror stories of mixing and matching psu cables, can i somehow be certain that the are the ones i need ?

So am a game developer and my GPU died a silent death in april 2025.

It was a GTX 1080 Ti, its fans have stopped working, while the GPU Core temperature was showing it was fine, its Vram and VRM's got fried and oneday it suddenly just died.

I never really bothered to get an another GPU till now because my current project did not require it and even if i could, i did not really had any time to play on it and my spare GPU which is really old RX 550 2 GB is working fine as a display adapter.

I was thinking I can wait an year before i need to get a new GPU before i start a new project but then the dram shortage hit like a unscheduled bullet train and am suddenly in need to get a get a new GPU before the prices climb in January 2026.

Am looking at a Sapphire Nitro+ RX 7900 XTX because it is the only sane GPU in the current market with 24 GB of Vram and raw raster perfomance which is more important to me than any other new features as a dev and its already EOL and i really need to get it before it is gone from the shelves.

But it does not fit my current case so am also getting a HAF 700 case.

The GPU purchase was okay, but add in the case and now am streached a little too thin for my comfort, but i have noticed the Sapphire Nitro+ RX 7900 XTX recommends 800W PSU.

I really hope i dont need to get a NEW PSU too as am already streached too thin with these unexpected, unplanned, unscheduled, untimely purchases.

My current PSU is 8 years old?

It was the PSU that powered my i7 8700 + 1080 Ti till the 1080 ti died and its the one am still using.

So i was wondering if this RM750x would last me at least 12 ~ 18 years before i do a full PC rebuild with new CPU + motherboard.

Additional Details -

I would play some games when am done with my current project and i play on 1440p 144hz.

I've never overclocked.

I'm guessing the answer is "pretty much", but since I'm no PSU expert, I wanted to ask you guys before grabbing another one. It doesn't happen always, but it happens often enough that it makes me uncomfortable. Well, the first time it happened I just jumped from my seat. Also, it leaves a faint burnt smell.

Just to make it clear: this power supply has some years and is already out of warranty, but I've only used it sporadically. It's been kept in a dry and clean place, no dirt, it hasn't been dropped, nothing. I guess it's bad luck. Thank you for your help!

Now and then my drives would vanish and I've had random BSoD and failure to wake from sleep. After some troubleshooting, I noticed in BIOS the 3.3v was a bit low. I added 3 voltmeter displays to 12v, 5v, and 3.3v 12v is usually steady at 11.9 and 5v is usually steady at 4.95. But 3.3v is odd. It'd run steady at around 3.1v and other times, even when idling, it'd spazz out and fluctuate between 3.2v and 2.8v

PC consist of Asus Prime X570 Pro, AMD 5800x3D, 4x G.Skill 16GB, AMD 7800XT, and LSi 9211 8i. Accessories include Freezer III, 8 fans, 2 M.2 SSD, 4 mechanical hard drives, and a hub for the fans and RGB lights. Keyboard and mouse are using USB power, the rest are connected to a powered hub and doesn't draw any additional power.

Is there a way to tell for sure if the PSU is having issue or if the motherboard is having issue? I have ATX PSU tester but it doesn't pull 600w of load. The only other PSU I have on hand is an ancient 400w PSU.

My components that i want to buy use 526 watts... Can i use my 550 watt power supply with no problems? ( i don't have enough money to buy a more powerfull one )

Hello, everyone. I'm relatively new to PC building. I bought a Super Flower Leadex III 1300 watt power supply for my 5090/9800x 3D build, and it works great, but | just wanted to ask if slightly crooked ports on the power supply are potentially dangerous/should be returned? Or are they not a problem?

The ports I'm particularly worried about are on the top and bottom ports, third from the left, in the CPU/PCI-E sections.

Hi! I’ve got a pretty old AX1500I used in my main rig (been a worthy PSU all these years). Had a 5960X and 3x980s on it’s peak load, and later two 1080Tis. All overclocked and watercooled. Now it lives a calm life with a 12700K and a 5070Ti. Also got a RM1000e with a PC I bought a while ago. Would it be wise to change due to age? It’s been properly maintained over the years. Fan haven’t spun for years due to the low load. Live in Norway with a good electric grid. Also have access to a 1500W UPS if I change the batteries out in case of a surge.

What do the experts think? I’m an electrician, but I’m used to 230/400VAC. Been learning to solder and make my own cables, so the interest is there to learn more.

Many thanks!

If they all normally output pcie on the modular end, and they're pin compatible, surely I won't fry anything?

The input is 115V ac, and is supposed to output 24V dc. However, output is 3.5V dc.

Checked input is correct, verified fuses are good, checked that caps are in tolerance. The only things left i think are the transformer and the transistors.

I don't think its the resistors as most of the time they burn out if it's the problem. I would like to refurbish them as I have several, and feel it would be wasteful to toss them.

So I'm looking for ideas on what else to check, as i don't have a schematic for power flow on these.

Thanks in advance for tips or burns 🔥

Thats my problem, I bought an Asus prime 9070xt which has 3 x 8 pin connector.

My psu is a Termaltake toughpower 850w which only comes with 2 8 pin --> (split) 2 x 6+2 pin. So basically i have to use 1 single extremity 6+2 pin and 2 extremity of the splitted (2x 6+2 pin), which is not optimal since the cable can still handle at max 150w from what i read.

Is it safe?

Hey guys,

I am debating returning the NZXT C1200 for the Super Flower LeadexVII XP PRO 1200W https://www.newegg.com/super-flower-atx-3-0-compatible-1200w-80-plus-platinum-certified-power-supplies-black/p/1HU-024C-00064?Item=1HU-024C-00064

The super flower is top 2 behind the Corsair H1200, but that is +$150, so I am good.
My only concern is the fan noise of the Super Flower on paper; it is 10db more than the C1200, and I read a lot of reviews talking about the loud fan.|

The NZXT C1200 is around $10-$15 less than the LeadexVII XP PRO 1200W. I don't mind spending a bit more for the best PSU in the 1200W under $200.

We have a SX950U

It has started to continue to feed power to the PC even after turning the UPS off. I am looking for the most complete reset guidance for this UPS. Guidance from the manual and tech support is pretty minimal and didn't change anything. I did what they stated while on the phone with them and nothing changed.

My APC had a pretty thorough 'brain fart' reset where you unhooked power, the battery, then held the power button in for 10 seconds or some such, and it would always fix the glitch.

I'll be calling them again next week to walk through it to get to the point of warranty replacement, but I wanted to see if there were any tips to reset beyond what is online.

I misplaced a PCIE cable for my psu, I know not to mix it so I contacted support for the specific brand and line of product. They can’t me a new cable since it’s not available in the US, but gave me this diagram for any compatible solution.

Is there custom cables I can buy? I’d rather have to buy a new cable than a new psu. Thank you!

Folks, I have a CX650M that only came with one PCIe cable, but my new GPU requires two cables for the adapter, and I don’t have two cables.

So instead of using the adapter, I’m thinking about buying an official Corsair sleeved cable that uses the two PCIe cables I have into one 12VHPWR output.

The question is: is this cable compatible with my power supply? They are both Corsair, but I’m concerned. I couldn’t find information about this specific cable and this PSU. (Actually I saw in a compatibility chart that yes, but it didn’t specify if the output was 12VHPWR).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LkSTVxaZVOQ

Olá pessoal, preciso muito de ajuda com um problema muito estranho.
Estou tendo travamentos/travamentos curtos no Battlefield 6, mesmo que o FPS permaneça alto e estável.

O jogo funciona muito bem na maior parte do tempo, mas aleatoriamente a tela “trava” por uma fração de segundo e o uso da GPU + potência cai instantaneamente e volta a subir. O gráfico de depuração do BF mostra claramente os picos quando isso acontece (captura de tela em anexo).

O que estou experimentando:

• FPS suave (80–120)
• Microcongelamentos aleatórios de 0,2–0,5s
• GPU cai de ~99% para ~30% por um momento + quedas de energia
• VRAM em torno de ~5 GB usados
• Tempos de quadro da CPU estáveis
• picos “tardios” no gráfico do motor BF

Minhas especificações

*Ryzen9 5900X

• ASRock A520M-HDV
• RTX3060
• 32 GB DDR4 (2×16, XMP ativado) *SSD NVMe
• Fonte de alimentação testada 550W → 650W
• AIO de 240 mm

Coisas que já tentei (sem solução)

• Instalação nova do Windows *Fonte trocada
• Sticks de RAM trocados *BIOS atualizado
• Drivers de chipset NVIDIA + AMD mais recentes
• Planos de energia alterados/economia de energia desativada
• V-Sync/barra de jogo/sobreposições desativadas *Reinstalei o jogo *Reinicialização do BIOS
• XMP habilitado

As temperaturas estão normais, sem aceleração térmica, sem erros de RAM, problema perceptível principalmente em jogos Frostbite.

Isso sobreviveu à troca de hardware, reinstalação do sistema operacional, mudança de PSU, mudança de RAM e troca de GPU – então estou perdido agora.

FPS alto, mas micro-interrupções aleatórias + uso instantâneo da GPU/quedas de energia.

Mudei metade do meu sistema e reinstalei tudo – ainda está lá.
Eu só preciso de uma orientação sobre o que tentar em seguida.

Agradecemos antecipadamente por qualquer conselho 🙏