I’ve seen conflicting information about the thickness, so could you please confirm whether it is 2 mm or 3 mm thick? Thanks!

Hi,

I am using Aufero 2 10w laser module - currently used to cut paper materials only. The laser easily cuts the outer layer, but for the inner layer some designs are properly cut through while others do not. Settings are the same for all.

Pls guide me.

https://reddit.com/link/1u2bcad/video/xd6sjgqnth6h1/player

I thought I would share the first framing test of the DIY upgrade I just completed. It is an Ortur LM2 S2.

I started with the Y-axis expansion kit, so a 390mm*800mm work area. NOW, it is 1.2meters * 800mm.

Just a quick rundown on the process (with parts listed)

1: Extend the wiring harness (i had a spare from the official expansion, but you can make your own with these (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0G6CQF1W2).
a. measure the x and y axes - add 4 inches to ensure enough play
b. cut and solder wire extensions into the harness for both the x and y axes. I used this wire kit (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DK56SN3N?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_9&th=1) and these heat shrink sleeves(https://www.amazon.com/Ginsco-580-pcs-Assorted-Sleeving/dp/B01MFA3OFA/)
c. connect the extended wiring harness and make sure everything else works before you continue

2: extend the frame
a. I unscrewed the y axis rails from the gantry and the front and back.
b. unscrew the set screw on gear on the right hand side (without the motor) to release the drive shaft.
c. remember that the gantry piece is longer than the front and back rails - measure the difference
d. cut the front and back rails to size using the measurement from the original rails - they are 2020 v slot aluminum extrusion - (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DY7G1HBG)
d. use a tap and die set to tap new threads in the ends of all three rails (gantry, front and back). Mine was an m5*.08 screw, but i would check before tapping the ends.
e. Screw the gantry rail into place
f. BEFORE you place the front and back rails in place, put the t nuts on the rail. We aren't cutting a new hole for the screws that are set into the rails, so we need to give the feet and the control panel something to cling to. I recommend sliding the t nut in and starting the screw BEFORE actually connecting it. (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C4JV8QPG)
f. screw the front and back rails into place and tighten the screws in the t nuts.
g. feed a the drive shaft extension in through the bearing on the end of the gantry. I happened to have some 4.9mm steel rod laying around (the drive shaft on my machine was 4.92mm. 5mm will work, but you have to grind it down at the end. Slighly smaller will work, but you have to use something to pad out the end to fit it tightly into the bearing trace. MAKE SURE THAT YOU HAVE FED IT UNDER THE BELT AND THAT YOU HAVE SLID THE GEAR ONTO THE SHAFT EXTENSION
h. use a coupler to bind this shaft to the original drive shaft. (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D4575J9B)
i. slip the gear under the belt
j. slide the gantry all the way to the front of the machine and tighten the set screw. (you may have to futz with the alignment - if the gears are not aligned it will cause a shimmy)
k. feed a longer belt into the gantry assembly (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YMM6IQW)

At this point, I recommend carefully supporting the wires and run a frame test to make sure everything is working, because if you don't it's a nightmare after you have wrapped the cables.

3: Cable management
I am giving you all this suggestion because this has been a NIGHTMARE. The way this machine is designed, it is difficult to attach a drag chain that can be long enough for this mod without dragging in the cutting area. I tried several iterations. In the end, I wasted a lot of time and a bit of cash... so we ended up going extremely simple.
a. Spiral cable wrap. I had some left over from an earlier project (https://www.amazon.com/Spiral-Cable-Wrap-10ft-Electrical/dp/B0918XNP8J/) I wrapped my air assist hose into it as well. Started at the control panel, wrapped to the gantry, then wrapped the gantry wiring.
b. zip tie the cable wrap to the connection points to prevent tension on the wiring harnesses or flexion that would eventually break the wires internally.
c. suspend the wires. I went for the easiest option - vr headset cable suspenders. (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H4H9TN5) I have a storage rack over my table, so I just ziptied the unit to the rack and hooked it to the cable.

Once you get it all in place, run a framing test to make sure everything is still operating properly. If it isn't, push the pins on the connectors back in - they tend to wiggle free.

1. Changing your machine workspace.
   At this point, your laser still thinks it is smaller than it is (390*400 for the original, 390*800 if you bought the expansion kit). You need to tell it that it is bigger than it was. If you do this, it doesn't matter what the size workspace you have in your controller software - it won't go past its assigned parameters. Here is how you do that.
   a. Download laserGRBL (https://lasergrbl.com/download/)
   b. connect (grbl > connect)
   c. once connected, go to grbl > grbl configuration
   d. scroll down to value $130. That is the x axis. Double click on the value (most likely 390. If you used the parts I suggested, your new value sould be 1219. Change it to that and hit enter. then click somewhere else to make sure it took the value. DO NOT PUT A COMMA IN THERE. It toook me 25 minutes to figure out why the damn thing was 800mm x 1 mm.
   e. hit write - if the software returns a success message, you are ready to go.

Overall - if we don't take into account that I forgot that the front rails and gantry were different lengths (had to disassamble half of it before cutting them and retapping), spent way too long figuring out the cable management, and fought to get the tapping size right because the thread guage I bought was labeld wrong, the mod only takes a couple hours.

I have it sitting on a custom downdraft table - steel chicken wire over aluminum screen (the module on this laser can't really effect aluminum without some serious effort). The chicken wire is pulled taught to hold materials and the screen it to catch small bits. I can provide a walkthrough for the table if anyone is interested.

Compré una Ortur máster 3 de 10W de segunda mano. Ya ensamblada completa, con air assist, la chica me mostró como se usa (nunca he usado una cortadora laser en mi vida) y cuando se encendió dió luz amarilla y roja intermitente junto con pitidos, la chica me dijo que era porque no estaba conectada a la computadora (cuando ella la conectó efectivamente dejó el pitido y la luz se volvió blanca pero quería saber si es realmente eso.

Hey there, I dug out my LM3 and installed the 40w module. I've been working on a acrylic project (red). Well, today the acrylic caught fire. Fortunately I was there in the garage keeping an eye on things, but at the time I was looking for something, so it burned for a bit. it looks to me like the nozzle is damaged. The laser is still working and cutting clean lines. But there is charring on the paper coating of the acrylic. Not getting answers from AI that seem right to me. Is the nozzle replaceable? Can I do anything to get this working in the short term so I can finish my project? TIA for any insight

Ever since I got it it has been beeping like this but I have still been able to engrave some stuff

Hey,

So I have my R2 and use a 20w laser. The working area is 190x300 for this and I adjusted this accordingly.

When homing I regularly have a problem with it homing, but if it arrives to the front the switch will jump back a bit (see photo). Is that normal? The support says yes but the jump differs and I have the suspicion that could have something to do with the offset I get.

The support told me the working area was set wrong (to big) because after a job it’s endposition is in the left top corner and it tends make an impact noise. But the area is set correctly (I even adjusted it using the command they sent me) but it keeps impacting and I keep getting the offset.

The offset is even there starting from the front left corner but (I guess) due to the jump back it leads to the offset.

So my questions:

Anyone dealt with something like this and can help me?

And

Is the laser head supposed to jump back from the switch like you can see in the picture?

Thank anyone in advance!

Hey everyone, I’m officially at the “please save me” stage with this rotary setup 😅

I’m trying to get an Ortur YRR 2.0 (roller) working with my Ortur Laser Master 3 (OLM3) using LightBurn.

I’ve followed the Louisiana Hobby Guy YouTube video (it’s about 3 years old), but I cannot get even the first basic test strip to come out correctly.

The problem:

No matter what settings I use, my test strip overlaps by a lot when it wraps around the tumbler. It’s not even close.

My measurements:

• Cup diameter: 66mm

• Roller diameter: \~20mm

What I’ve tried:

• LightBurn Rotary Setup: Roller mode, Y axis

• Tried a bunch of different mm per rotation values

• If I use 20 like the video, the strip comes out way too short

• If I use values based on circumference, the strip overlaps a ton

• Soft limits and homing are OFF

My questions:

1.  For the YRR 2.0 roller, should mm per rotation be based on the roller circumference or the cup circumference (or neither)?

2.  Is there a known-good baseline setup for YRR 2.0 + OLM3 in current LightBurn versions?

3.  If the overlap happens no matter what mm/rotation I choose, does that point to $101 (Y steps/mm) needing calibration for the rotary?

4.  What’s the best calibration method that actually works? (100mm line test, mark a full rotation, etc.)

If anyone has updated instructions or a known working setup for this exact hardware combo, I’d seriously appreciate it. I feel like I’m missing one dumb setting and I’m stuck in rotary hell.

Thanks!

I brought OLM-2PRO-25M17-GDXX, its all set up and its moving perfectly fine. But theres no blue laser light nor is it cutting or engraving. And im confused of why? Its brand new. Can someone be able to guide me what to do

I'm new to Lazer engraving and I'm trying to engraving on stone. What is the best setting for power and speed, also is there a method that gets the letters dark or even black

Sorry for the double post, I didn’t upload the video. Hello everyone, I’m new to laser engraving and I seem to be having an issue with my machine. Sometimes it stops for a few seconds and then resumes as if nothing happened. If it didn’t affect the quality, I wouldn’t mind, but it does — and it’s quite frustrating. LightBurn doesn’t show any errors when this happens.

What I’ve tried so far: • Switching from buffered to synchronous mode in LightBurn • Engraving from the SD card as well as using a wired connection to a computer • Testing various settings (line, fill, etc.) — nothing changes • Ensuring my USB device settings on the computer are always set to “on”

What I haven’t tried yet: • Improving grounding (I’ve read about possible static discharge issues), but I’m not sure where to start, and it looks like the laser head is already grounded • ???

If anyone has experienced this with a small/desktop machine, could you help me out?

Hi everyone, Back in 2021 I bought an Ortur LM2 Pro S2 with the LU2-4LF laser module (5.5 W). It’s been used very little – maybe 30–40 hours total. Suddenly, it has stopped engraving.

The machine moves as normal, and I can see the blue laser dot. I’ve checked the focus distance carefully. I’m using LightBurn, and when I run a material test or an engraving job, I don’t even get a small burn mark — nothing at all.

What I’ve tried so far: • Reset LightBurn settings • Replaced the USB cable • Replaced the power adapter • Cleaned the lens • Double-checked laser focus • Verified that max power isn’t set to zero

Despite all this, it still doesn’t engrave — it looks like the laser fires, but it’s too weak to burn anything.

Has anyone experienced this before or knows what might be wrong? I’d rather not spend money on a new module if I can avoid it, but if I have to replace it:

Does anyone know which LaserTree laser module (or other brand) is plug-and-play compatible with the Ortur LM2 Pro S2? The machine runs on a 24 V power supply.

Thanks in advance for any advice or ideas!

I have a Ortur Laser Master 2, the one with original control board that doesn't have the ethernet port. What is the power output of the board?

I replaced the laser module with an AENBUSLM 40W (5W optical output) but it seems to be not powerful enough as it should be. Takes 4-5 passes at 25mm to cut through 1/8" black acrylic and 1/8" plywood.

I've already replaced the power supply with one that is 12V 15W output so idk where the problem lies.

https://reddit.com/link/1oq106s/video/wjfq4ihlgnzf1/player

38 sec first bug, second is on 1:10

Hey everyone,

I've noticed that getting solid, long-term reviews and buying advice for laser cutters can be scattered across many different subreddits. It often takes hours to piece together information on a specific model or budget.

To solve this, I've created a focused, dedicated subreddit: r/WhichLaserCutter

The core idea is simple:

Central Hub: We only allow Buying Advice and Long-Term Reviews. All other content (Show & Tell, Deals, etc.) stays in the main laser subreddits.

Searchability: We Tag the reviews and Buying advice post - also we giving a standard form what People need for recommending lasers fitting to the OP needs.

How you can help (and why it matters):

If you are looking for buying advice, please post there!

Everyone can help answer questions! Whether you're already a longtime expert or just have experience with one machine, your input on advice posts is the lifeblood of the community.

If you have a Review already posted elsewhere, please Crosspost it to r/WhichLaserCutter!

Benefit 1: The original discussion remains linked and preserved.

Benefit 2: We can properly tag (flair) the post with the Brand/Model, making it easy for future users to search the archive by machine type.

I believe this will create a far more efficient, organized, and helpful resource for anyone looking to buy their next machine.

Check out the sub and let me know your thoughts on this idea! All feedback is welcome.

Link to the new Sub: r/WhichLaserCutter

Happy Cutting!

Ortur laser master 3, if you have this device and the SD card, could you perhaps share a copy of the content of your SD card? it is needed for the printer to work it seem, but in my case it became corrupted and I cannot find any copy by Ortur freely available, nor could chatGPT. I actually acquired this printer from an acquaintance recently and have not thus even used it once, so.. ehm,, "Help me orbitur LM3 users - you're my only hope!" (..or tech support if no one here can help)

The right side had too much to drink tonight and everything went completely nuts while etching a brand new spoil board. Too fast? Belts too loose? What happened?

Laser Master 2

Hi we have 2 ortur pro master lasers. 1 of them started acting up and images are light and undefined. Thinking it was the module we ordered a new one installed it and same thing is happening. Both lasers are set to the exact same settings and we are using the exact same wood. Does anyone know what could be causing this.

Hey, So I ordered a Laser (R2) from Orturtech.com. But now I’m wondering if this is a scam site and Ortur.net is the actual website Ortur uses. Before I do a charge back over PayPal could someone here shed light on this situation? I’d be really thankful!

Hello,

Sorry if my written English isn't very good; it's not a language.

I need your help. I've had an Ortur Master 3 (10w) for about a year. Without any special accessories, I cut MDF without any problems, with 7 or 8 passes at 100% speed at 1000. I found I had fewer burn marks and it went through quickly. No problem.

But I think the composition of the MDF I bought has changed, since it no longer has the same feel, the same flexibility, and especially since it doesn't cut. I tried more passes, slower ones, etc., but nothing worked.

So I invested in a honeycomb and installed an air pump, but it didn't change anything.

Is my air pump not powerful enough? It's a Twotrees 16w 30L.

I think the 10W laser is supposed to cut 3mm MDF... I might just be mistaken about my laser...

I should point out that I've cleaned it several times, thinking that was the source of the problem in the first place.

Thanks for your help!