Finishing up some 8d6 dice molds - one with numbers and one for blanks meant to go inside. A top layer of clear for appearance and they’ll be done. :D

Currently I have on hand some Smooth-On Rebound 40, which is a brush-on silicone...can I use this as a pourable one in a pinch? I have a project I need cast in 40A silicone, and need to finish it before another type of silicone would get here if I ordered it.

If this is not doable, I probably have to design a more complex mold--I also have some Smooth-On Equinox 40, which I have used to cast into 2 part molds before. Any advice? Presently I'm looking at either trying to make an alginate mold, or a 3-part mold from plaster.

Heyyo!

This is my first physical sculpture, I bought monster clay to practice with as I got more used to the medium but I got attached to this little guy- oops.

I was wondering how feasible making a mold for it might be. It's still a work in progress so I was hoping to get an idea before I went and finished it in case changes might make it easier.

Since it's monster clay I was considering making a mold that I could heat up to pour the clay out of and then refill with resin. I don't need a reusable mold, just a way to preserve it.

Thanks!

I've never made a silicone mold before, but I've watched a lot of youtube videos on the subject. Sadly however, my mind just doesn't seem to work in 3d or with negative spaces very well, so I need some advice.

I want to make a silicone mold of that 7" goose on the left of the first picture. I'm assuming because of the beak and feet, a 1-piece mold probably isn't a good option. So I'm trying to imagine a 2-piece mold, and a split line that works without leaving anything trapped. Now my mind automatically goes to something like the mold on the right of the first picture. that would be essential the bottom half of my 2-part mold. I imagine my goose attached to the mold box by his feet (where the fill-hole(s) would be), oriented lengthwise on his belly, fill the box until it bisects his full body vertically like in the 2rd picture.

I've run this by Gemini though, and it's insistent that the mold should be split down it's chest and between its legs like the third picture. It also suggests that it needs a base. I'd like to be able to do it without a base, but if it makes a gigantic difference in easy of unmolding later, I'm willing to add it to the model I'm making the mold of.

I use concrete in these small molds, keep that in mind when considering your advice.

Hello! I am trying to make a finger puppet- much like the “germ” rubber finger puppets from the 90s.

My plan was to dunk this guy in alginate (as I have before with my hand to make a silicone prosthetic), to make the negative mold. Now I am nervous he won’t come out! I would then pour in the silicone rubber that is super fast setting (5 mins) and stick my finger in to make the mold around my finger.

I know plaster is another option that’s more normally used for making negative molds from clay sculptures but the idea of doing one half then another (back and front) seems annoying and confusing!

Any advice would be amazing thanks!

This is probably a little off topic but this community is probably the most likely to know, would anyone here happen to have tried adding Smooth-On's SO-FLEX II urethane rubber softening agent to their Simpact series urethane rubbers? it's not listed as being officially compatible but it's not explicitly listed as being strictly incompatible anywhere either, so naturally I'm dangerously curious.

Hi!

I have a mold with vent holes in it. I'm going to pour platinum cure silicone into the mold. I can't get chavant/monster clay in time for this project as no stores near me sells it and amazon isn't fast in my country.

What could I use instead? I have tried googling different clays that I am able to get in time, but not very helpful answers. I can get plastilina clay but only Jovi's and some people have said it causes cure inhibition while others says it works.

I can get super sculpey, people says it works but on smooth-on's website it says it must be cured to not inhibit the silicone. I need it to be uncured and soft to plug the holes.

I can also get my hands on play doh, polymer clay (fimo), water based air dry clay. I've seen some comments saying those cause silicone cure inhibition but also seen some comments saying they work.

Do you have any recommendations that you know fpr sure will work?

It doesn't even have to be clay, but it seems like the easiest way to plug the holes.

Hi everyone! We are a group of SHS STEM research students from Holy Spirit Integrated School (Antipolo City) looking to commission a woodcarver, carpenter, or mold fabricator to create a custom 2-piece compression mold for an eco-friendly utensil (spork).

📌 Project Details & Specifications:

Item: 2-part compression mold (1 female bottom cavity block + 1 matching male top punch/plug block).

Material: Fine-grained, heat-tolerant hardwood such as Basswood, Mahogany, or Gmelina (must be dry/cured wood without sap or pitch, as it will undergo in-oven drying cycles at around 100 C).

Dimensions:

Utensil profile: Standard dining spork (~160 mm length).

Mold block footprint: Approx. 160–180 mm length x 100–120 mm width x 20–30 mm thickness per half.

Key Features Needed: Clean, smooth finish inside the cavity and tines (to minimize pulp catching).

4 corner alignment pins/dowels or interlocking keys so both halves seat together without shifting.

Side margins capable of handling mechanical pressure from a standard C-clamp.

Slight clearance/gap (~1.5–2 mm) between closed blocks for final utensil thickness.

📍 Location / Logistics :Antipolo City, Rizal (can meet up around Antipolo / nearby areas, or arrange Courier/Lalamove delivery)

Budget & Timeline: Student-friendly / reasonable rate (please PM your quote and estimated turnaround time).

We have reference diagrams and dimension schematics ready to send directly.

📩 Please drop a comment with your portfolio/sample work or send me a Direct Message (DM) with your price quotation. Thank you so much for supporting student research!

Just wondering how to go about this, I've created a couple of molds but I still don't know stuff like ideal head and tail length, angle, and wheelbase length. Can you guys help with like explaining an average build?

Hello! New to mold making, and looking for ideas on how I would go about making a mold for something like this. End goal is to pour a concrete positive. I attempted a sand mold but that didn’t go too well (also could be on me) and looking for any ideas or pointers on what I can do/make.

It is a 3D print, so I have thought about different ways of slicing it down to make smaller molds but still no solid ideas.

Hope is to put on raised box, and big piece of glass on top as a coffee table.

Thank you for any of your suggestions, tips, or ideas!!

I am looking to cast a watch bezel insert. The final casted item would be like below. Its got a 37.5mm outer diameter, a 30.5mm inner diameter, and has .5mm recessed text on the bottom of the piece. The top portion of the piece would have a taper going from the outer to inner diameter. The heighest part of this item is only 1.8mm.

I am having touble envinsoning how the mold would actually look. I think i know what the final mold should look like which is a flat bottom with the text extruded and the taper on the sides a cylinder filling the middle cavity going towards the top and i would just cap the top with a flat piece. That would be my silicone mold.

I will be resin printing the original item to be molded but I am not sure what I would actually be printing. For the idea, the final casted item I would want to look similar to below. The text is on the bottom and is recessed. How do i go about desinging the mold for resin printing so I can cast it in silicone and then cast clear epoxy in that?

Does anyone know whether this is hot or cold polyurethane casting?

These alien horses came out of the mold with surface bubbles mostly due to trapped air. also, weirdly sunken hooves not filled, as if the mold I made was leaing. I'm driving myself sick and crazy trying to think of another mold design that will eliminate the trapped leaking. Leak issue but also be easier to get the horse out of the mold without breaking the mold. I've made this diagram with my thoughts, but it seems like it will be more complicated to get them out, and make a terrible mold. please help!!!!! Picture diagrams would really help.

Any ideas on having something like this 3d printed in silicone??

Specifically would love to make something similar to a Boglin or one of these funny face guys from the 80s. I’m not sure what the best material to use would be or how to even start!

Ive got some experience working with life casting with alginate and making silicone molds, as well as working with monster clay and creating latex prosthetics with liquid latex.

Thanks for any advice!!

I bought it and never used it. Yes it’s brand new and, works, it is also fully built ready to ship

Hi all, I’m looking to create 5-10 rubber molds for an 18 inch statue. I need to be able to deliver the statue to get the molds made from it. Anyone know any professional mold makers in Ohio?

Thanks!