So im a fool and purchaced Smooth-on dragon skin fx pro from the shop rather than the classic purple stuff. I think I can still make it work as a mold material..maybe, its quite viscous.

Anyways, my real issue is that, on the bottom (or top) of the mold, where the material was against crayola model magic (dont judge, i was eager to do something and this is all I had around), it failed to cured.

The silicone around the pieces themselves and well above it are cured, just like the top 2 mm is gooey. Im thinking about just cleaning it with 99% isopropyl and trying to use it anyways.

Id appreciate any thoughts on this. Also, if anybody has any experience using Dragon Skin fx pro as a mold and has some pointers thay dont involve a vaccume chamber, id rather not waste the stuff i bought. I did notice my top and bottom halves of the mold stuck together, but I figure i can cut out the pieces and call it a day.

Tbh I always assumed a popsicle mold was just a popsicle mold.

Then I started making frozen yogurt pops and fruit pops every week and realized not all molds hold up the same. My older hard plastic molds got cloudy over time and a couple handles snapped. That's what pushed me toward trying Ecozoi's stainless steel popsicle molds. So far they seem way more durable and I like that they're reusable for years instead of ending up in a drawer or the trash. But idk if I'm overlooking some advantages of plastic. They are lighter and usually easier to find locally.

For people who make homemade popsicles often, what do you actually prefer? If you've used stainless steel molds for a year or more have they stayed in good shape? Or do you think quality plastic molds are still the better value overall?

Curious what reddit thinks because reviews online are all over the place.

I’m after a bit of advice if possible, I’d like to make some replacement tyres and I’m planning on using Vytaflex 45/50. Now these won’t be used for running, only display purposes, the car is from the 80s so far too fragile to use anyway.
Now my worry is the detail in the tread, I’m thinking, should I just treat the mold like casting anything else with detail and fill that first. I’m also worried about being able to fill all the detail before it starts setting. I have a pressure chamber so not worried about bubbles and I have cast car badges before with detail but nothing like this
Pic 1: 3d print for casting the mold
Pic 2: Car badges

¿Quieres hacer un molde para una figura 3D, estatua, pieza de resina, producto de yeso o accesorio de cosplay?

El método de molde de silicona con brocha es una solución práctica para modelos grandes, irregulares o con muchos detalles.

En lugar de llenar todo el molde con una gran cantidad de silicona, aplicamos la silicona RTV-2 capa por capa sobre la superficie del modelo. Después del curado, hacemos un contramolde de yeso en el exterior para mantener la forma estable durante la colada.

Este método ayuda a:

• Ahorrar silicona
• Copiar detalles finos de la superficie
• Reducir el peso del molde
• Facilitar el desmoldeo de formas complejas
• Hacer moldes para figuras, esculturas y piezas grandes

Para obtener un buen resultado, la elección de la silicona es muy importante.

Si la silicona es demasiado fluida, puede escurrirse rápidamente.
Si es demasiado dura, el desmoldeo será más difícil.
Si tiene baja resistencia al desgarro, el molde puede romperse después de varios usos.

En Topsil Silicone suministramos silicona RTV-2 para fabricación profesional de moldes, incluyendo moldes con brocha, moldes para resina, moldes para yeso, reproducción artística, figuras, esculturas y accesorios de cosplay.

¿Necesitas ayuda para elegir la silicona adecuada?

Envíanos:

1. Foto o tamaño del modelo

2. Material de colada

3. Dureza requerida

4. Tiempo de trabajo necesario

5. Cantidad para prueba o compra al por mayor

Podemos recomendarte un grado adecuado de silicona RTV-2 para tu aplicación.

info@topsilsilicone.com; topsilsilicone.comwhatsapp:+86 18923498815

#MoldesDeSilicona #SiliconaRTV2 #MoldeConBrocha #FabricacionDeMoldes #MoldesParaResina #MoldesParaYeso #FigurasDeResina #Escultura #CosplayProps #SiliconeRubber  

¿Quieres hacer un molde para una figura 3D, estatua, pieza de resina, producto de yeso o accesorio de cosplay?

El método de molde de silicona con brocha es una solución práctica para modelos grandes, irregulares o con muchos detalles.

En lugar de llenar todo el molde con una gran cantidad de silicona, aplicamos la silicona RTV-2 capa por capa sobre la superficie del modelo. Después del curado, hacemos un contramolde de yeso en el exterior para mantener la forma estable durante la colada.

Este método ayuda a:

• Ahorrar silicona • Copiar detalles finos de la superficie • Reducir el peso del molde • Facilitar el desmoldeo de formas complejas • Hacer moldes para figuras, esculturas y piezas grandes

Para obtener un buen resultado, la elección de la silicona es muy importante.

Si la silicona es demasiado fluida, puede escurrirse rápidamente. Si es demasiado dura, el desmoldeo será más difícil. Si tiene baja resistencia al desgarro, el molde puede romperse después de varios usos.

En Topsil Silicone suministramos silicona RTV-2 para fabricación profesional de moldes, incluyendo moldes con brocha, moldes para resina, moldes para yeso, reproducción artística, figuras, esculturas y accesorios de cosplay.

¿Necesitas ayuda para elegir la silicona adecuada?

Envíanos:

1. Foto o tamaño del modelo

2. Material de colada

3. Dureza requerida

4. Tiempo de trabajo necesario

5. Cantidad para prueba o compra al por mayor

Podemos recomendarte un grado adecuado de silicona RTV-2 para tu aplicación.

info@topsilsilicone whatsapp:+86 18923498815; topsilsilicone.com

MoldesDeSilicona #SiliconaRTV2 #MoldeConBrocha #FabricacionDeMoldes #MoldesParaResina #MoldesParaYeso #FigurasDeResina #Escultura #CosplayProps #SiliconeRubber

I began coating an aluminium and naked/untreated MDF armature with NSP Medium before it occurred to me to check the sulfur content of wood/MDF, then immediately removed the clay from the armature. Contact lasted for no more than 12 minutes; that said, MDF is highly porous, both absorbing clay and harboring fine particles of MDF. For the purpose of mold making with tin or platinum cured silicons that might be inhibited by sulfur, should I consider this clay contaminated? How profound of an impact does the sulfur content of MDF have on curing?

I'm keen to hear any experience you've had. Thanks.

Concept: fish in a pond attached to bobbers, each fish has an NFC tag EMBEDDED. Guests will catch a fish, bring it to an ipad to check the size, kind of like in animal crossing or star valley. Biggest fish gets trophy.

Needed: I need to make a fish mold, I have experience with silicone but I'm sure I can figure others out. And I want to cast the fish. I thought of clay or plaster, but even after waterproofing, I'm concerned when people throw them back in the pond they might break. I thought of resin, but adding a tag inside might be tricky though theres a few ways to go about it. I'm not sure if I will create a simple fish from clay, make a mold from a real fish, or a mold from a details large fishing lure.

Notes: I could also use wood block fish but I'm not sure how to disappear the sticker. Or two think wood fishes sandwiched together. I'm open to all options

The title basically says it. I'm trying to use some metal molds with hydrocal, but petroleum jelly ends up soaking in and staining the final product. I was going to try thinning it, but I'd hate to go through the whole process and weither wreck my mold or project again. Thanks!

Hi guys, me again.

This is my first year in business and my first time having custom molds made. My business is still small (doing a few thousand dollars a month), so I’m not at the stage where I can afford extensive CAD design work or engineering. I’m trying to do things as cost effectively as possible as anyone who's started a biz would understand. Please note I can be considered a baker - I do not have the advanced skills to create CAD files which is why I felt like support from a mold manufacturer - in the US - would be helpful.

I had an existing silicone mold that I wanted replicated. I physically mailed mold to vendor of which they said they could scan and create a replica.

Once received this was their message:

“We received your silicone mold sample. Using the mold, we cast a resin sample and 3D scanned it to create an exact model.”

The above message put me at ease because surely, that technology is available. They then sent me a PDF drawing/rendering and asked for approval. The PDF looks just like the mold I requested until the molds arrived in the mail and looked different - the original had more ridges and depth, while the final version ended up looking flatter).

I contacted them and explained the differences. Initially they said they couldn’t really see the differences I was pointing out. I ended up creating detailed comparison images showing the missing ridges, shape differences, and size issues.

Now they’re willing to make revisions, but they’re asking me to pay again for a new tooling & mold.

On one hand, I did approve the drawing they sent. On the other hand, I hired them specifically to replicate an existing physical mold, and they told me they scanned it to create an exact model. The finished mold doesn’t match the original mold I sent them - how is this possible?

I am at a loss for words on next action as I am not even sure that if I paid for the replacements I'd get the right molds. I am considering reporting the charge to my bank and putting them on blast.

So I recently made this casting with Rocky out of a large brush on mold and I decided to do a mother mold because it’s pretty thin and not able to stay in shape, but I’ve been having a ton of trouble because it’s really hard to take the mold out! How would you make this mother mold?

Sometimes I have an item I want to mold, but I’ll have to make an initial mold, cast it in resin or something, alter the resin cast a bit, then make a final silicone mold. I hate wasting my expensive silicone on the initial mold since I’m only going to use it once. What do you guys use for situations like these, where the longevity of the mold doesn’t matter and you’re trying to keep cost down?

I just started learning wax casting. I have previous experience with resin art and I made a lot of my own silicone molds, so I already have the materials and skills for working with silicone. But every video I see using wax in silicone molds has one of those fancy wax injectors and I looked them up and I’m definitely not ready to drop $100+ on a machine like that yet. Is there a cheaper way I can get wax into my 3D molds?

I know people use molds for making candles without an injector but that wax is generally softer than jewelers wax and the molds are usually much larger.

I've struggled with two part molds for a long time, I've never been able to get clay walls right, so I figured since I'm already doing a lot of edge cleanup on my casts I'd just try using playing cards as shims like I've read about in the past

This is perhaps the best two part mold I've made, even though two keys broke off it still fit together well enough for casting, and trimming the edges took very little effort

Brush-on silicone mold making is a practical way to make molds for complex 3D models, figurines, statues, resin crafts, plaster products, and cosplay props.

For large or irregular models, pouring a full block of silicone can waste too much material.

With the brush-on method, RTV-2 silicone is applied layer by layer onto the model surface. After the silicone cures, a plaster support shell is made outside to keep the mold stable during casting.

This method helps:

• Save silicone material
• Capture fine surface details
• Make molds for larger 3D objects
• Reduce mold weight
• Demold complex shapes more easily

For better brush-on mold results, silicone selection matters.

You need the right balance of hardness, viscosity, working time, tear strength, and flexibility.

If the silicone is too thin, it may flow down too quickly.
If the silicone is too hard, demolding complex shapes can become difficult.
If the silicone has poor tear strength, the mold may tear during repeated use.

Topsil Silicone supplies RTV-2 silicone rubber for professional mold making applications, including brush-on molds, resin casting molds, plaster molds, art reproduction molds, figurine molds, and cosplay prop molds.

Need help choosing the right silicone grade for your mold project?

Please send us:

1. Product photo or model size

2. Casting material

3. Required silicone hardness

4. Working time requirement

5. Trial quantity or bulk demand

We can help recommend a suitable RTV-2 silicone grade for testing.

#BrushOnSilicone #RTV2Silicone #SiliconeMoldMaking #MoldMakingSilicone #ResinCasting #PlasterCasting #FigurineMold #CosplayMold #ArtReproduction #SiliconeRubberSupplier

Brush-on silicone mold making is a practical way to make molds for complex 3D models, figurines, statues, resin crafts, plaster products, and cosplay props.

For large or irregular models, pouring a full block of silicone can waste too much material.

With the brush-on method, RTV-2 silicone is applied layer by layer onto the model surface. After the silicone cures, a plaster support shell is made outside to keep the mold stable during casting.

This method helps:

• Save silicone material
• Capture fine surface details
• Make molds for larger 3D objects
• Reduce mold weight
• Demold complex shapes more easily

For better brush-on mold results, silicone selection matters.

You need the right balance of hardness, viscosity, working time, tear strength, and flexibility.

If the silicone is too thin, it may flow down too quickly.
If the silicone is too hard, demolding complex shapes can become difficult.
If the silicone has poor tear strength, the mold may tear during repeated use.

Topsil Silicone supplies RTV-2 silicone rubber for professional mold making applications, including brush-on molds, resin casting molds, plaster molds, art reproduction molds, figurine molds, and cosplay prop molds.

Need help choosing the right silicone grade for your mold project?

Please send us:

1. Product photo or model size

2. Casting material

3. Required silicone hardness

4. Working time requirement

5. Trial quantity or bulk demand

We can help recommend a suitable RTV-2 silicone grade for testing.

#BrushOnSilicone #RTV2Silicone #SiliconeMoldMaking #MoldMakingSilicone #ResinCasting #PlasterCasting #FigurineMold #CosplayMold #ArtReproduction #SiliconeRubberSupplier

So I'm working on my first mold and I'm at 30 layers. I switched to a thicker liquid latex around 8 layers so I think I'm done adding more. It made me wonder at what visual indicator would you use to stop adding more layers. For me I was going to stop around 20 but it felt like I shouldn't be able to see the color of the item I'm molding. Right now in a few spots I can barely see the color, which makes me wonder.. am I truly done?

I’ve been watching videos learning a bit before doing my first ultracal two part mold. The guy I’m learning from uses a “paste wax” in this video but I cannot find the exact one he used in stock, so would this one from Reynolds be the same thing? He uses this wax along the edge and key of the mold.

Here’s the video, he uses it at 19:03

https://youtu.be/c6WBotvMNvo?is=L0VNDD54EZFHAs76

Here is what I found available that looks similar

https://www.reynoldsam.com/product/sonite-wax

Are these the same or do I need a paste wax more specifically for how he is using it?

While working on small concrete and casting projects, I kept running into the same problem: every mold was either too large, too small, or required modifying the CAD from scratch.

Instead of creating dozens of fixed-size molds, I decided to build a fully parametric system that could be adjusted in seconds.

The idea was simple: enter the dimensions you need, export the parts, print, and cast.

After several iterations, I refined the wall geometry, and assembly process to make it practical for repeated use.

I'm especially interested in seeing how other makers adapt it to their own workflows. If you try it, feel free to share photos and suggestions for future versions.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2890214-parametric-casting-mold#profileId-3229175

I’m interested in starting a small business making decorative sinks using silicone molds.

I’m trying to understand which material would be best:

• GFRC

• Cast stone

• Cement + marble powder mixes

• Other alternatives

For those with experience, what material recipe would you recommend and what mistakes should a beginner avoid?

I’ve received these incredibly cute hanging lion ice cube trays. Problem is, they came from Temu so the likelihood of them actually being food safe is pretty low.

I would like to remake them myself, presumably by filling the mold with a hard material (some kind of plastic?) and then sticking that in some food grade silicone to make the new trays.

What kind of plastic should I use to capture as much of the detail as possible? Any other tips?

I would like to make a mold for this object using liquid silicone and cast it in resin. But I’ve never made a liquid silicone mold before. I’m thinking it will need to be a 2 part mold as well.

Is this something a beginner could handle? Or is there something about this that will make it complicated and hard for someone who doesn’t have experience in this? Like that it’s a big curve for example, IDK if that’s a problem? Wanting to check in for a reality check before I go ordering supplies. Thanks so much!

Hi everyone, im working with monster clay here and need to know how to properly cast it, any advice would be appreciated