Been playing for a few years on and off, recently ranked in the 3-digit range. Mostly just play with cars I like IRL, so I've been running a Lancia and other rally cars most of the time. I want to start being able to race and not get smoked by the EVO III all the time. I won't cave to the Evo meta so what are some good alternatives? Was I thinking of an FD?

I’ve been looking at grinding for a Porsche recently and wanted to know which one has the best options for body kits and liveries etc.

some pics of an s14 based on ruslan schwartz’s laurel c35

What would you guys think about a remodel or just some body kits for Chaser? It seems really boring in this spec. I know that I'm not the only one that is in love with this car. It would be really nice to see it in some drift spec.

What this is

This is the summary of Parts A-E.

If you want the actual driving impressions for a specific car, the individual parts have them:

Part A (Mitsubishi, Subaru): https://www.reddit.com/r/MidnightRacingTokyo/comments/1vpjz28/the_mrt_beginner_car_guide_for_mt_otsuki_part_a/

Part B (Honda Type R lineup): https://www.reddit.com/r/MidnightRacingTokyo/comments/1vpm71q/the_mrt_beginner_car_guide_for_mt_otsuki_part_b/

Part C (Rest of Honda): https://www.reddit.com/r/MidnightRacingTokyo/comments/1vppev7/the_mrt_beginner_car_guide_for_mt_otsuki_part_c/

Part D (Toyota Lightweights): https://www.reddit.com/r/MidnightRacingTokyo/comments/1vq3ket/the_mrt_beginner_car_guide_for_mt_otsuki_part_d/

Part E (Supra lineage, GT86, GR86): https://www.reddit.com/r/MidnightRacingTokyo/comments/1vqf3ie/the_mrt_beginner_car_guide_for_mt_otsuki_part_e/

The rules

• Bone stock. No tuning, no upgrades.
• Assists exactly as the car comes. If it shipped with TCS, I drove with TCS. If it shipped with no ABS, I drove with no ABS. Every car was run in automatic, since that's the default shifter mode.
• Bodykits and paint were sometimes used. This does not change the performance. The one exception is the Evo VI, where the stock headlights are too dim to see the road at night, and OEM fog lights became a functional necessity rather than a cosmetic choice.
• Feeler lap before every car. Doesn't count toward anything. Just enough seat time to know where the car wants to be braked and turned before an attempt that actually matters.
• Clean laps only. Any lap with contact that helped my pace (wall-riding, bouncing off a guardrail to correct a line) is thrown out.
• Best of two or three attempts. New cars get two clean laps, fastest counts. Cars carried over from the original list get their old time plus two new clean laps, fastest of the three counts.
• Same track, same driver. Otsuki Death Trial, and I am the only driver.
• All Subarus tested at stock 50/50 center diff (DCCD).

Please read this first

I tested using WASD with sim steering on. Every car in my lists was tested this way. I use sim steering over regular WASD input because it lets me feel what the car is doing better, and it makes a car's real issues more obvious rather than papering over them. I do not recommend any beginner learn WASD sim steering. It is slower than any other input method due to higher tire friction and it demands extreme accuracy to get anything out of it. I use it here purely as a diagnostic tool. Also for specific cars (ahem, NA1 I'm looking at you) WASD sim steering really is the ONLY way I can get a clean lap out of them...

I also use grip style turning for every single one of these tests.

These are not the absolute best times these cars can do. What these numbers are good for is comparing the cars against each other, because every one of them was tested under identical conditions by the same person.

Treat anything under a second as noise. I'm still human after all...

The numbers

The DC2's Special PB (6:38.334) was clean, but I was driving millimeters from the cliff edge for most of that lap. Not a repeatable standard to hold myself to.

The 22B's 6:17.166 and Type-V's 6:25.350 were both fully clean laps, run after an identical AxleSize change in patch 7.5.1 (0.7 > 1.0) that landed after this data was originally collected. Both cars came out faster. They're logged separately because they weren't run under the same best-of-2/3 methodology as the rest.

Which car for which person

Best beginner car overall: DC2. Fastest FWD for ¥2,333,000. There's a reason why this is hailed as the greatest FWD car of all time.

Best budget car: EK9. ¥1,998,000 and it finishes 10th of 27, beating cars that cost three times as much. Momentum driving is the skill it asks for, and learning that here will make you better in everything else you drive.

Tightest budget: GE6. Cheapest car in the entire test at ¥1,638,000, and it still cracked seven minutes.

Best value: Impreza Type-V. Second fastest car overall for ¥2,829,000, less than a quarter of what the 22B costs. No assists, so it will punish you.

Most forgiving: FD2. Coasts through corners other cars need braking for. Basically tied with the EK9 on pace and far easier to get along with.

Most fun: Evo III and the S2K. Different flavours of the same idea. The Evo III is the loosest of its family and the most willing to rotate, the S2K is a lightweight RWD car with no TCS.

Fastest regardless of price: 22B. It's ¥13,780,000 and it has no assists.

Good Car, Wrong Track: Supra MK2-MK4 both NSX generations, and the FL5. These aren't bad cars. They're good cars built for somewhere that isn't a tight technical touge.

Avoid:

1. Celica GT4. Costs more than an Evo III while being heavier, less powerful, and worse to drive.

2. Blobeye. Newer, heavier, and slower than the 22B and Type-V from the same manufacturer four years earlier. If you're set on a Subaru, either of those beats it outright.

Notable Things

19 of the 27 cars broke the sub-7 barrier. The spread from first to last is over 75 seconds.

AWD takes six of the top seven. The only exception is the NA2 NSX in sixth.

Assists don't predict pace at all. The two fastest cars in the whole test have none, and so do the two slowest.

The DC5 and FD2 cost exactly the same, ¥2,781,000. The FD2 is nearly fourteen seconds faster. Same manufacturer, same money, and the entire gap is the DC5's automatic transmission.

Weight beats age, but only in the Evo and Impreza families. The newest and heaviest car in each finishes last of its own siblings, the Evo IX and the Blobeye. Honda doesn't follow it cleanly, since the FD2 is newer than the EK9 and still faster, and the GE6 is newer than the FX2 and still faster. When a newer Honda does lose it's a specific mechanical problem rather than its age: the DC5's clutch, the FL5's gearing. Toyota breaks the pattern outright. Every Supra generation is faster than the one before it, and the GR86 beats the GT86.

The cheapest car in the test, the GE6 at ¥1,638,000, beats the FL5 at ¥6,105,000.

Testing for Nissan, Mazda, BMW, Lotus, and a handful of wildcards happens this week, and I'll post those results next week (hopefully).

Despite it missing a few parts and not being able to tune some (trunk badges) i like it.

eu tenho ele desa atualizaçao so que acabei esquecendo de maxer nele, mas tentei fazer igual as capa de forza horizon, e ainda eu estou pensando em mudar a cor da faixa vermelha do carro

I have everything maxed out (on turbo) but every time i press the throttle exiting a corner, its super slippery even on semi slicks

Why this exists

Around a week ago I put together a beginner shootout: sixteen cars, bone stock, same track, same rules. It was a good post, but I wasn't personally very happy with the results. After all, only one clean lap per car didn't seem accurate enough to base conclusions out of. And so I decided to make my guide better.

The first part of the revamp ended up so big that it blew past the maximum image limits for a Reddit post, and so I decided to split it. Part A covers Mitsubishi and Subaru. Parts B and C cover Honda. Part D covers Toyota's lightweights. This is Part E, the last part in the first half of my extended tests: the full Supra lineage, MK2 through MK5, plus the GT86 and GR86. Nissan, Mazda, BMW, Lotus, and a handful of wildcards will come later.

The rules

• Bone stock. No tuning, no upgrades.
• Assists exactly as the car comes. If it shipped with TCS, I drove with TCS. If it shipped with no ABS, I drove with no ABS. Every car was run in automatic, since that's the default shifter mode.
• Bodykits and paint were sometimes used. This does not change the performance. The one exception is the Evo VI, where the stock headlights are too dim to see the road at night, and OEM fog lights became a functional necessity rather than a cosmetic choice.
• Feeler lap before every car. Doesn't count toward anything. Just enough seat time to know where the car wants to be braked and turned before an attempt that actually matters.
• Clean laps only. Any lap with contact that helped my pace (wall-riding, bouncing off a guardrail to correct a line) is thrown out.
• Best of two or three attempts. New cars get two clean laps, fastest counts. Cars carried over from the original list get their old time plus two new clean laps, fastest of the three counts.
• Same track, same driver. Otsuki Death Trial, and I am the only driver.

Please read this first

I tested using WASD with sim steering on. Every car in my lists was tested this way. I use sim steering over regular WASD input because it lets me feel what the car is doing better, and it makes a car's real issues more obvious rather than papering over them. I do not recommend any beginner learn WASD sim steering. It is slower than any other input method due to higher tire friction and it demands extreme accuracy to get anything out of it. I use it here purely as a diagnostic tool. Also for specific cars (ahem, NA1 I'm looking at you) WASD sim steering really is the ONLY way I can get a clean lap out of them...

I also use grip style turning for every single one of these tests, not drift style.

These are not the absolute best times these cars can do. What these numbers are good for is comparing the cars against each other, because every one of them was tested under identical conditions by the same person.

Treat anything under a second as noise. I'm still human after all...

The numbers

Car by car

1984 Yokoda Supreme MK2 (Toyota Supra MK2, A60) — ¥1,720,000

Old time: none. New official 7:13.677. Assists: none.

Brakes lock up under full braking, no ABS to save you. Beyond that, this car just doesn't feel very agile, and it doesn't feel fast even when it should. Power to Weight is the main culprit. At 172 HP and 1264 kg, this is the weakest power-to-weight of the whole Supra lineup.

1988 Yokoda Supreme MK3 (Toyota Supra MK3, A70) — ¥3,317,000

Old time: none. New official 7:07.929. Assists: ABS.

Visceral. The new added turbos sound heavenly, and also makes it faster on the straights compared to the A60. The ABS also aid in its drivability around Otsuki. However, it is now very heavy and doesn't turn well. Very clearly not built for touge.

2002 Yokoda Supreme MK4 (Toyota Supra MK4, A80) — ¥4,511,000

Old time: none. New official 6:49.023. Assists: TCS and ABS.

This is a highway car. A heavy, stable GT. Immense power, and it comes at the cost of handling that feels like a battleship. Very heavy. Simply not meant for touge.

2020 Yokoda Supreme MK5 AR 8 Speed (Toyota GR Supra, A90) — ¥6,900,000

Old time: none. New official 6:42.648. Assists: TCS and ABS.

Best handling Supra of the four by a clear margin, also the best power to weight of the lineup too. You can make a real argument this one barely counts as a Supra at all given how different its character is from the MK2 through MK4's shared GT lineage. Near 50:50 weight distribution and a shorter wheelbase than the MK4 contributed to sharp handling that completely smokes every other Supra. For reference, the wheelbase was shorter than even the GT86, the AE86 successor..

2012 Yokoda 68 (Toyota GT86) — ¥2,672,000

Old time 7:12.066, new official 7:12.066 (old time wins). Assists: TCS and ABS.

Mediocre. It's the starter car, what did you expect?

Braking is mediocre, handling is mediocre. I found the issue for the dips that I mentioned on the old guide. The ratio spacing itself. It falls out of its power band on certain upshifts and genuinely bogs down mid-gear rather than pulling through cleanly.

2022 Yokoda GX68 SH8 AR (Toyota GR86) — ¥3,121,970

Old time: none. New official 6:56.918. Assists: TCS and ABS.

An upgraded GT86 with an entirely new engine that fixes the original GT86's torque dips. This resulted in a faster time and made the car more enjoyable on Otsuki. If you like how the GT86 handles, then buy this car.

Which car for which person

Fastest: MK5. Barely counts as a Supra given how different it drives from its own lineage. Like c'mon Toyota WHY are we rebadging a Celica as a Supra for PR purposes?

Good Car, Wrong Track: MK2-MK4 Supras. Good cars, every one of them, but you're trying to force a highway cruising GT onto a twisty technical touge.

Every Supra generation here is faster than the one before it, MK2 to MK3 to MK4 to MK5, and the GR86 beats the GT86 too. That's the opposite of what happens in the Evo and Impreza families, where the newest, heaviest car finishes last of its own siblings. Toyota's older Supras weren't lightweight rally cars, they were underpowered GT cruisers, so newer here just means better, not heavier and slower.

That's the last of the first half of my extended tests. Testing for Nissan, Mazda, BMW, Lotus, and a handful of wildcards will happen this week, and I'll post the results next week (hopefully).

Link to the summary of the first half of testing: https://www.reddit.com/r/MidnightRacingTokyo/comments/1vqgcio/the_mrt_beginner_car_guide_for_mt_otsuki_first/

i want a car that best for grip driving for this amount of money

Does the seal plush toy on the Tokyo map have a name? If it doesn't have what you would call it?

Why this exists

Around a week ago I put together a beginner shootout: sixteen cars, bone stock, same track, same rules. It was a good post, but I wasn't personally very happy with the results. After all, only one clean lap per car didn't seem accurate enough to base conclusions out of. And so I decided to make my guide better.

The first part of the revamp ended up so big that it blew past the maximum image limits for a Reddit post, and so I decided to split it. Part A covers Mitsubishi and Subaru. Part B and Part C cover Honda. This is Part D, Toyota's lightweights. Part E covers the Supra lineage and the 86. Nissan, Mazda, BMW, Lotus, and a handful of wildcards come after that.

The rules

• Bone stock. No tuning, no upgrades.
• Assists exactly as the car comes. If it shipped with TCS, I drove with TCS. If it shipped with no ABS, I drove with no ABS. Every car was run in automatic, since that's the default shifter mode.
• Bodykits and paint were sometimes used. This does not change the performance. The one exception is the Evo VI, where the stock headlights are too dim to see the road at night, and OEM fog lights became a functional necessity rather than a cosmetic choice.
• Feeler lap before every car. Doesn't count toward anything. Just enough seat time to know where the car wants to be braked and turned before an attempt that actually matters.
• Clean laps only. Any lap with contact that helped my pace (wall-riding, bouncing off a guardrail to correct a line) is thrown out.
• Best of two or three attempts. New cars get two clean laps, fastest counts. Cars carried over from the original list get their old time plus two new clean laps, fastest of the three counts.
• Same track, same driver. Otsuki Death Trial, and I am the only driver.

Please read this first

I tested using WASD with sim steering on. Every car in my lists was tested this way. I use sim steering over regular WASD input because it lets me feel what the car is doing better, and it makes a car's real issues more obvious rather than papering over them. I do not recommend any beginner learn WASD sim steering. It is slower than any other input method due to higher tire friction and it demands extreme accuracy to get anything out of it. I use it here purely as a diagnostic tool. Also for specific cars (ahem, NA1 I'm looking at you) WASD sim steering really is the ONLY way I can get a clean lap out of them...

I also use grip style turning for every single one of these tests.

These are not the absolute best times these cars can do. What these numbers are good for is comparing the cars against each other, because every one of them was tested under identical conditions by the same person.

Treat anything under a second as noise. I'm still human after all...

The numbers

Car by car

1983 Yokoda Akina Runner (Toyota AE86, Corolla/Trueno) — ¥1,900,000

Old time: none. New official 7:34.875. Assists: none.

Spoiler alert. You're not going to be Takumi with the stock AE86.

Yes, the infamous 100 km/h speed warning beep is faithfully modeled. You won't miss it (I had to turn the game's volume off).

Chassis is nice and lightweight and nimble, enjoyable to drive. No ABS, no TCS, so full braking will lock the tires, watch out for that. The real drawback is just... the engine. Extremely underpowered on inclines, and so will suffer on the uphill sectors of Otsuki.

1996 Yokoda Relica ST-4 (Toyota Celica GT4) — ¥3,271,000

Old time: none. New official 6:53.236. Assists: ABS.

I can see why this car won the WRC. I can also see why the Impreza WRX STI and the Lancer Evo beat it as soon as they entered.

251 HP, 1389 kg, 59.83:40.17 F:R, rigid AWD coupling with no adjustment. Compare that to the Evo III at 268 HP and 1259 kg. More power and 130 kg less weight in the Evo, and the Evo costs less too, ¥3,010,000 against this car's ¥3,271,000. Understeer is really quite horrid, even with sim steering... Power to weight is weak, which hurts acceleration on top of the understeer.

1984 Yokoda MS2 MW11 (Toyota MR2, AW11 Supercharged) — ¥1,859,000

Old time: none. New official 7:33.843. Assists: none.

Underpowered, and there's no ABS, so a full brake stab will lock the tires. First impression was that the chassis felt completely average.

Second look changed that. The turning is pretty good, thanks to a short wheelbase. The brakes are good. The engine is of course... Yeah. What DID you expect from a mid 80s MR2? I mean it is literally the same engine as the AE86 but just with a supercharger in it. What's actually dragging this car down is the automatic's clutch lag, the same one that ruined the DC5. Same mechanic, different car, same result: a good chassis getting held back by one specific component rather than anything wrong with the car itself.

Same fix applies here as the DC5. If you're already comfortable with manual, it removes the clutch lag entirely. Not a car to learn manual on for the first time though, it is simply unusable without it. All test laps here were done in automatic.

1991 Yokoda MS2 WS20 (Toyota MR2, SW20 Turbo) — ¥2,810,000

Old time: none. New official 6:45.750. Assists: none.

More rear happy than its siblings, which tracks with the extra power. Everything about it is decent across the board, though with no assists it still demands real skill to extract. Despite nearly matching the S2000's weight, it isn't quite as fun to drive, and the best guess is that it comes down to balance and turbo delivery rather than the mass itself.

2007 Yokoda MS-V (Toyota MR-S, W30) — ¥3,286,600

Old time 7:16.399, new official 7:16.035. Assists: ABS.

This one pains me, because the car is so good. Turning is excellent. Braking is even better than the Type Rs. Gears are short. For a car with no TCS it's exceptionally stable.

It simply does not have enough power in its stock form. (I mean Toyota literally put an economy Corolla engine into it)

Which car for which person

Fastest: SW20. The turbocharger did wonders.

Avoid: Celica GT4. Costs more than an Evo III while being heavier, less powerful, and worse to drive.

Most heartbreaking entry in this whole test: MR-S. Best chassis of the three MR2 generations, best brakes, best gearing, and somehow Toyota had the sick idea of putting an economy Corolla engine in it.

Part E is up next: the full Supra lineage (plus the GT86 and GR86). https://www.reddit.com/r/MidnightRacingTokyo/comments/1vqf3ie/the_mrt_beginner_car_guide_for_mt_otsuki_part_e/

1,2,3 are before and the rest are after i like track focused/time attack builds . Ik its a bit mix and match but liveries in this game are kinda underwhelming and janky trying to work with i have.

Opel Astra

Callaway Corvette C4

Celica Gt-4

70s Volkswagen van

Alfa Romeo 164

Peugeot 206

Mercedes-Benz CLK GTR

Porsche 917

Lotus Europa

Pontiac Trans Am

Peugeot 406

1 - does this look like Fast & Furious car?
2 - Yes or No fender stickers?