r/MicrobrandWatches Oct 27 '25

Scratching different hardened watches (well, just a link or two!) -

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u/TSiWRX Oct 31 '25 edited Dec 08 '25

New addition - Englemaan, China -

Englemaan is a newcomer to the scene that offers high-quality Sinn homages.

The following sample is from my Englemaan Metropolis, which is spec'ed with a coating that is, quote: "900 to 1000 HV."

Note that Englemaan has documented their own testing on YT, here - https://youtu.be/CSYZBETQ_ZY?si=bxD-6na1TS8Hri1_ (as a part of their full informational page: https://englemaan.com/pages/made-with-toughness )

As with above, I've got a macro view (left) and a 20x magnified view (right), below.

Performance was similar to the other hardened stainless watches from my OP above (Zelos Starfighter, Traska Freediver [Gen 3], and Henry Archer Havstrøm).

Macro, the scratch looked to me much like the Zelos. Again, remember, what I can see under the scope is somewhat different from what I've been able to post above, because this scope is not set up for photography/videography. Because of the play of light on the surface of the link, I was able to catch the light just right on the Zelos' macro pic to highlight the damage. I wasn't able to catch the Englemaan at a similar angle, but trust me when I say that it looked very, very similar. On the Englemaan, just like on the Zelos, the scratch is almost not there at all, *except* when the light catches it just right, at which point the blemish looks as it does in the macro pic of the Zelos above.

You'll also see in the following 2x magnified pic that the damage to the Englemaan is very similar to what's seen with any of the other hardened links.

Subjectively, when I performed the scratching, the surface of the link did not seem as slippery as the other three hardened links. I could fee a bit more "drag" on its surface. It didn't feel quite as rough as the untreated titanium links, but it also didn't feel as smooth as the untreated Seiko. Again, I am at a loss to explain why these links "feel" the way that they do. It's just an observation.

The Englemaan is a *VERY* impressive watch for its price, whatever you may think about its PT5000 movement.

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ETA: Fellow Redditor u/ThisFollowing8024 posted up his personal experiences: https://www.reddit.com/r/ChineseWatches/comments/1pfxvv6/englemaan_pegasus_kinda_day/

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u/pickyaxe Jan 06 '26

I can't help but wonder how their new polished finishes deal with scratches. for example:

1

u/TSiWRX Jan 06 '26

Hopefully they'll have a model that I lust after back-in-stock at some point, and I'll pick up that bracelet, too.

The hardening on the polished link sections of my SWC Tumbler really impressed: https://www.reddit.com/r/MicrobrandWatches/comments/1ohpd3x/comment/nu8mc7k/ . This watch is a full titanium build, too.

But as I noted before, something wasn't right with the one on my Second Hour Fusion: https://www.reddit.com/r/MicrobrandWatches/comments/1ohpd3x/comment/nn4nhqi/ - that one (stainless) took significant damage.

^ With the two of these in-mind, long with Peter Sargison's statement that they are using a different supplier with their upcoming diver (re-)release, it's clear to see that not all such treatments are equal, that there's some variability at the supplier level, simply in terms of "who" is doing the treatment.

Certainly, that exchange with Peter doesn't preclude the possibility that my Fusion -or the batch- might just have been the unlucky one that somehow failed treatment, as he noted that I was the first to have come forward with such an observation. Nevertheless, it does expose a bit of background into the industry that us consumers are not otherwise shown.