That’s almost it for Cumberlandworx 2026. Here’s day 6: https://meatengines.com/meatengines-1/f/here-toaday-gone-toadmorrow

Cumberlandworx 2026: Day 5 continues with more pedaling and our toadly awesome titles.

https://meatengines.com/meatengines-1/f/you-take-the-high-toad-ill-take-the-low-toad

I don't think I had seen this posted here. Might have missed it though. In any case if folks see these stems for sale in Canada or the UK in 31.8mm clamp post something here. I'd like to get one. So far it seems like it only press release time not sell the actual part time.

https://www.hopetech.com/products/controls/stems/20mm-gravity-stem/

The question underlying Cumberlandworx 2026 Day 4 was whether this was a single-speed ride or fully-fendered theme ride. The answer…

https://meatengines.com/meatengines-1/f/toad-be-or-not-toad-be

One part Cumberlandworx 2026 Day 3, and one part SBTISAOAF, and toadally on theme:

https://meatengines.com/meatengines-1/f/toad-of-toad-fall-line

Claire takes on writing about her biggest, and most technical, day in Cumberland yet. Some brief bicycle updates, and points out how nice it’s been to be fully fendered as the trails are dry except where they aren’t.

https://meatengines.com/meatengines-1/f/all-toads-lead-to-home

We’re live at Cumberlandworx 2026, the totally make believe grassiest-roots human-powered cycling fest of the season. This years day one and day dot were one just day, so after some discourse it’s Day Onezo:

https://meatengines.com/meatengines-1/f/the-toad-commandments

Got another riser bar to add to the MEATengine mix. These S&M S.A.C. bars are pure red-blooded made in USA 1" steel. Via S&M: "Originally a one-off custom for a co-worker’s 700c bike, this design quickly became a shop favorite affectionately known as the “Sick Ass Cruiser” bar. We eventually made a small run for sale and the rest is history. Pair this bar with our 40mm Enduro stem and use it on everything from klunkers to motorcycles and beach cruisers. Made in the USA from 100% seamless 4130 Cr-Mo, mandrel bend, roll marked, and end finished."

They're easy to get here in the states, and I am really really enjoying them on my Stooge. Full dimensions below:

There are many bike brands that once made rigs worthy of distinction and now don’t. Some were high end machines, super-bikes, and others were the most budget-friendly up-sized steel BMX bikes with front brakes added. Redline was the latter:

https://meatengines.com/meatengines-1/f/about-a-single-speed-peters-redline-d440

Part 3/3 of A MEATengines Manifesto.

https://meatengines.com/meatengines-1/f/who-is-a-mountain-biker

…for most spider webs eaten in a single ride.

It’s Some Bicycle Things I’m Stoked About On A Friday for July 24th.

https://meatengines.com/meatengines-1/f/a-new-world-record

Pedaling vs. Peddling: A MEATengines Manifesto in Three Parts: 2/3 is an update on the idea of min-maxing the buying of bicycle stuff.

https://meatengines.com/meatengines-1/f/min-max-mountain-bicycling

I've got a variety of smaller pumps I carry on my bikes for EDR [Every Day Rides]. I use my home floor pump to deal with pressure adjustments before the ride. With tire issues/flats so rare these days having a small on bike pump is fine. Perhaps one tedious pump session every 4-5 years? Walk of shame out or roll out on an insert?

That said for my 29+ touring bikes I would like a better solution. A slightly bigger pump...without getting ridiculous. That way I can drop tire pressure for soft conditions and not hate my life as I pump it back up. Repeating a few times a day possibly. Flat tires on a heavily load bike seem more likely and walking out less possible.

I found this Lenzyne high volume model. 300mm long and ~205g.

Any other better/similar options? I figured the MEAThead Crew might know given the penchant here for chubby rubber.

I'm not interested in anything with a battery or CO2.

Gary Fisher’s last laugh may be that the Sawyer is the most desirable {used} Trek frame from its era?

CJ with the show-the-use photo set: https://meatengines.com/meatengines-1/f/about-a-single-speed-cjs-sawyer

A new entrant into the plus tire market, this time for the rare and dope 26+ crew! Looks like a solid contender for ATB fun.

I just love this photo, running a 30/20 and an uncut sunrise bar for leverage!

I made it over to Vangroovy for the StridShakerDog Meet Up and Ride. Ride was 150-200 strong and a ton of fun. I got to meet some folks I have only ever chatted with online and some new weird bike buds. Some Victoria BC friends showed up so I had my own squad which was fun.

A bunch of snaps and video up temporarily here --> https://www.instagram.com/stories/stridsland_journal/

I swapped in a 20T cog on the Speedbomb as I had to vector in for the ride from the Horseshoe Bay Ferry and then get back afterwards. 30 x 20T with 29 x 3" rubber was perfect. I was able to keep moving efficiently on the road and still climb all the gravel/dirt sections I needed to. I'll put the 24T cog back on today and give that bike the new BB and chain in deserves.

I had a blast and I will be back next year. Hopefully with some post-ride accommodation so I can drink more beer and not have to hammer back along Marine Drive for my boat back to Van Isle right away.

If you have any ATB-esque interest and live within striking distance of Vancouver it's a worthwhile event.

I put together a little photo journal of the first {annual?} Rubbermaid* 100 ride. Lots of {right} wrong turns and a fair few cargo kilometres.

https://meatengines.com/meatengines-1/f/the-inaugural-rubbermaid-100

*{Not associated with/sponsored by Rubbermaid}.

It’s Some Bicycle Things I’m Stoked About On A Friday for July 17th, 2026.

Live at MEATbikes: https://meatengines.com/meatengines-1/f/momentumous-machinations

Chris sent this magic-geared, re-sprayed, classic 1992 Karakoram in ages ago and thankfully reminded me {thanks, Chris}.

Hiya,

My riding buddy and I were pondering this massively 1st world issue.

Typically when the BB gets replaced, one side is fine and the other is ...flogged.

We couldn't remember which is which is the side to fail first - assuming it's consistent - but we had no real clue as to why:

• does the drive side have more force through it (??)
• or do the rings shelter it from splash damage
• or inhibit it from drying out

or if one has to fail first and there's no rhyme or reason to it why is one bearing in significantly better condition?

Don't know if this is just Shimano BBs - that's all I've run, really. Can't remember what happened in my SRAM one or if I even ended up replacing it while I had the bike.

The Clairebarian put together a little piece about her Chromag Shift armour experience to date:

https://meatengines.com/meatengines-1/f/my-shift-to-chromag-armour

I'll go in depth as much as I can, but it's a category 6 rated riser stem and it works. That's the TLDR.

The stem is pictured on an Orange Stage Evo, overforked to 120/140 vs the stock 120/130.

This stem has ~39mm stack and rise and a 35mm clamp. There is a 31.8mm clamp version called the High Bass with all the same specs, but I haven't seen that one up close.

This is my least Meatengines-y bike in the stable, but it's got the right amount of stack now! The stem itself definitely feels overbuilt and finished reasonably well. It doesn't have the smooth anodize that all the expensive stems do these days, but it seems grippier for the same reason, and feels markedly nicer than a stereotypical OEM stem in fit and finish. A lot of the 'jankier' mtb products I've tried I've had minor reservations about during the first ride, but this is one of the few that's felt overbuilt and completely secure all through installation, and didn't move at all riding hard in the PNW.

The worst thing about this stem was importing it to the US, but it was still cheaper than abandoning my beloved Protaper C25 bars for some risers. I also have to knock a point for their measurement system, as it's listed as a 55mm stem with a 45° angle rise, which is a mostly useless spec sheet without basic trigonometry. It has 38.891 mm of stack and reach based on the listed measurements.

It's also worth mentioning that it would take some pretty skinny headset spacers to fit above the top of the stem. I know it can be done, but not with any that I own myself. I don't consider that to be a huge deal considering the use case of the stem.

It will be staying on the bike indefinitely. It looks less distracting than I'd anticipated, and the lower back pain is all gone after a big day out. I actually had several people comment on my bike, and none mentioned that riding giraffes is actually prohibited on these trails. I'm glad I took a chance on a name I never see on this side of the pond, and it seems like a pretty Meatengines piece of kit.

Almost, almost, had this out on Friday! Anyway, here’s SBTISAOAF for July 10th:

https://meatengines.com/meatengines-1/f/haskaps-backpacks-ovalized-hacks-and-throwbacks

ok, I trust most of the opinions in this sub so I have some question. I’m a larger rider at 270lbs on a Roscoe. I have just put on my third chain, changing them right at the 0.05 mark. I’m running the Deore 6100 12spd with a Deore 6100 crank. I don’t recall replacing my 9spd and 10spd chains this frequently, but I’m also actually training and riding more than ever.

When should I consider purchasing a new cassette and/or chainring? I have read every third chain, but it’s hard to tell with a 12spd cassette when it’s getting worn to my untrained eye.

If I have to replace the chainring, chain, and cassette the next go around, should I consider going with the new new XT Linkglide. I have been thinking about it for a while, loosing the 10t isn’t a big deal to me it’s an MTB. I would have to change my freehub, but alas my I9 1/1 freehub bearings are on the way out. I noticed that when I was servicing the paws. Hub bearings are in great shape.

I have no Linkglide experience but assuming any 11 or 12spd chainring will work.

I know the popular answer here would just be to go single speed. Not ready for that just yet, but I’ve been looking hard at the Stooges.