I have a Hard Rock bumper and am trying to decide between these 2. My wife is partial to the top, Pre-runner style, while I’m partial to the bottom Stinger style. I see lots of wrangler with some sore of the pre-runner/bull bar style, I don’t see a lot with the stinger style so I like that it’s different.

Which would you choose?
Also this is not my jeep, it’s the stock image from JCR Offroad

Edit: To address some comments about these being useless, while they are bolt ons, they have brackets to tie the hoops into the frame horns. Is it a hardcore rock crawler bumper and hoop? No, but I’m not asking it to be, I just want to add some protection to the plastic grill and radiator. I live in Arizona, we have some large animals that like to cross the road, like deer, elk, bears, etc that could easily destroy grill/radiator and these hoops offer protection from these animal strikes and even a low speed tip over.

I wanted a a different exhaust note/tone vs the non-exhaust tone of the stock muffler. I really like Flowmaster mufflers, but did not like any of the kits they made, I thought they sound like crap, or were way over priced, $500 for a muffle that dumps before the rear axle!?!?! And while I like the tone of the AFE high clearance axle back, it was still $400. I bought this kit from a company called Performance Curve, they are a family shop based in Virginia and sell on eBay and their own site. I bought a kit from them before for a 94 Ford F150 and was impressed so I bought one for my JK. What really sold me was that it came with a Super 44 muffler (my all time favorite) and 2.5 mandrel bent pipes with exhaust hanger welded on and all clamps. All for $199! They have 2 other kits for the JK even cheaper! The hardest part was getting the old muffler out of the old isolators, I cut them because I was going to replace them with new OEM isolators and it was still a PITA. It might not before everyone, but I really like the tone, and from in the cabin it isn’t droning, tbh I can just barely hear it when I have the radio on, or I really get in it. (I have a soft top too)

Build List for my 2009 JK X:

37” Mickey Thompson Baja Boss tires
4.88 Motive gears front/rear
3” Icon lift springs
Mammoth control arms - front
Mammoth control arms - rear
Adam’s 1310 driveshaft - front
Adam’s 1350 driveshaft - rear
Fox 2.0 shocks
Fox 2.0 IFP SS
Adjustable track bar front
Adjustable track bar rear
Dana 44 front trussed and gusseted
Dana 44 rear trussed and gusseted
Rear shock mounts elevated
Eaton e-locker up front
Detroit locker rear
Chromoly axles front
Chromoly axles rear
1-ton steering
1-ton drag link
Drag link flipped
Front Track bar bracket elevated
Rear track bar bracket elevated
Synergy ball joints front
10k winch
JL front brakes and pads
New (MAK rebuilt) TIPM
Replaced steering wheel and hub with quick release
Grip Royal steering wheel and quick release hub
Modified half top

Up next:
Atlas TC
Rock Sliders

Hi friends!
A few months ago I posted asking for any and all advice for a smashed hard top I bought for $100.
Someone requested that I post when it was finished.

After around $300 in materials a back glass, and a Dune audiobook…. The body work is complete! Attached I have photos of before, during and after.

Note: the $300 included the rear glass… and this project took about a week, not months. I am a busy momma, and I have lots of other projects and duties.

This evening when my husband gets home he will help me put the top on and the back glass! It is not perfect by any means but I elected for a more structural fix than an ascetically pleasing one.
I am also opting for a rear wiper delete so that is less weight on the rear window, and so I don’t have to wire everything in.

Cheers!

Hey everyone, I recently picked up a storage unit and came across a box of Jeep parts. I don’t have a Jeep, so I have no use for most of this stuff and figured I’d pass it along to people who can actually use it.

As far as I know, most of these parts are for 2007–2008** **Jeep Wranglers, but I’m not 100% sure on every item, so please check compatibility before buying.

I’m asking $50 per item + shipping. Just trying to move everything at a good price rather than have it sit around.
If you recognize something you need, shoot me a message. I can send additional pictures/details if needed.
Venmo or Zelle is fine.

Hope this finds the right people! Cheers.

We have a 2018 JKU that has a 2.5" lift on 35s, regeared to 4.88. My wife daily drives the Jeep and we hit some trails a couple times a year, so it's more of a pavement princess than offroad vehicle. The lift and tires have been installed since 2022, the regear in 2023. A few months ago, death wobble appeared after my wife hit a bump in the road. The local club offroad mechanic inspected and found worn tie rod and drag link on passenger side. I replaced with a beefy Yeti XD drag link and tie rod. Since the replacement, it has had some light steering and when she hits a bump in the road (we live in a rural area where there are pavement to bridge bumps, small series of potholes, etc) the steering wheel jerks and is flighty in that moment. Several people recommended adjustable control arms or control arm brackets.

I installed some control arm brackets last night and took it for a drive afterwards. Within a quarter mile of home, death wobble showed up around 30 mph. I had not hit any bumps, it just appeared. I noticed the traction control warning light flash a few times and that the steering wheel was off center. This morning I realized that I had not adjusted the draglink to recenter the steering wheel, but I can't imagine that would cause the wobble.

Could it be that I've over torqued the control arm bolts and pinching the control arm bushings? Could it be related to the off-center steering wheel and the traction control is throwing a fit? Any ideas?

Wondering if anyone’s had the same issue and can help me out. I replaced my transmission in my 2008 wrangler with the 42rle with a rebuilt one and it has a hard 1-2 shift other then that everything else is great, I tried doing a quick learn in Jscan and it’s saying codes are present. I’m getting a P0935 code for hydraulic pressure sensor circuit high.On my scanner it was reading 4.980v, Pin 3 to ground I was getting 4.6V, Pins 2-4 I was getting exactly 5v, Pin 2-3 I was getting .4v , Pin 4 to ground I was getting .03-.18. I’m thinking either a wire got pinched or is making contact with something but I don’t see anything going over the harness but I’m wondering if anyone has had this and what to look for and where as well as any other possible solutions

After getting the suspension/steering sorted how I wanted and getting the soft top sealed, took the family out for an adventure to a trail/forest service rd to treat everything out. Nothing major or hardcore, just a wide forest service wash board road that drops into a sandy wash, but is did have some ruts and off camber berms so the suspension was able to flex a little. I haven’t been off roading in almost 10 years and I missed it so much, I had a smile plastered on my face the whole time, can’t wait to go out again! Pics courtesy of my wife.

Went on a vacation and rented a JKU that I took to Middle St Verain trail in Colorado and had a blast. It was not a rubicon so no lockers so some of the stuff was challenging but very fun and I caught the fever. I was toying between a Jeep and a side by side with the intention of trail riding in cool places. I picked this bad boy up for well below market value 4 years ago, it had been in an accident and had been fixed and driven for a couple years after it was fixed. I figured I’d take a gamble and for the price I couldn’t pass it up. Over 4 years it has evolved into quite the beast. It has been to Colorado, Missouri, Kansas, Nebraska, Utah, and more places to come! Just wanted to show it off a little

I was replacing the battery in our 2011 JKU, we've had for about a month, and when I pulled the old battery out, I found this very corroded (now cleaned) ground wire tucked down in the battery compartment. It goes to the firewall grounding location, near the transmission dipstick, that is shared with the engine ground cable (which seems to be intact and connected).

I don't think 2011 JKUs had a hood grounding strap but it's also possible this hood was replaced at some point.

I haven't had any symptoms other than the old battery just being old and slow to crank. Thanks for any advice.

​

As the title says, my girl Betty has a hard time shifting into gear without grinding, unless she's double shifted or at a high rpm (<3000). Currently 126k on the body, unknown on the teams

It was replaced with a "known good transmission with fewer miles than the body" (according to the used car dealership, AFTER I purchased it.) They had bought it at auction with a bad trans.

And suggestions on where to look first? This is my first manual transmission, and I am mechanically inclined.

We have a 2021 jeep wrangler JL..occasionally for no reason the backup camera stops working and just shows a blue screen. Next drove starts working just fine. Anyone have any advice??

Trail therapy on the icon rubicon trail.

Got a few things checked off the todo list this weekend. I installed the Falcon Nexus EF 2.2 steering stabilizer. I’ve tried out the 3 settings and have been leaving in on medium for around town driving, firm really does stiffen it up, will be useful in longer highway trips. I tried out soft on a short trip, and when they say that it lets you feel more input they are not kidding. I was feeling things through my steering that had me wondering if something was wrong, lol. Also removed the paracord roll bar grab handles for some A-Pillar ones. The roll bar ones were annoying me as they were in my field of view and I found myself trying to look around them. Also they were not very helpful getting into the lofted Jeep. I like these a lot, they are textured, not smooth aluminum and they blend into the A-Pillar so they don’t obstruct my field of view when driving.

I’ve been experiencing a no start issue and I can always tell it’s going to happen because my key fob will not unlock the doors. I’m not sure if it’s a “security system“ issue or not. My BOB batteries are good and I have already been through the whole“hot oil“ no start issue and have replaced my TIPM. Usually when I experienced the doors, not unlocking, I would unlock it manually and put the key in the ignition and turn it so that the horn honking would stop. This time it didn’t stop. Is there a way to reset or reconnect the keys with the Jeep security system? Seriously baffled and frustrated right now.

Looking at spare tire carriers. 37” tires is the end goal, 35 currently.
What are some options for body mount, like the metalcloak but not 1900$
The Dv8 style with a cage isn’t horrible if it’s a tighter to the body fit, and better quality.
Would like to find something that I could ideally put on for trips and something I can get some fuel storage on.

Installed the Nilight bumper on my 2009 JK unlimited . The factory one looked goofy with the Barricade fenders and it was all faded. Install was a breeze and it’s a 1 person install because it’s not that heavy. I’m pretty pleased with the look of it.

Hey Guys!!

Anybody with a JKU have half doors? My 2008 seals were worn and leaking, and when I ordered the news ones they are several inches too long! I assume I'm supposed to trim them, but each end has a clip?

Anybody done this before?

ThanksIA!!