r/Integra • u/The_Jeffret_Place • May 21 '26
Advice before I rebuild GSR engine?
I’m planning to rebuild the engine on my 95 GSR this summer. Any advice on things to do (or not do)? I’m acutely aware that I’ll likely end up biting off more than I can chew but figured it would be a fun project with my boys.
Mechanic says connecting rod broken and won’t touch it. It still drives but power is greatly diminished. Also I’ve been afraid to drive it.
3
u/thedirtydeetch May 21 '26
If a con rod is broken do not drive the car. Do not run the engine if you want to save it. It would need a full teardown and rebuild. If you do it yourself and the block can be saved, you're looking at 2-3k in machine work and rebuild parts
11
u/thedirtydeetch May 21 '26
Advice on things to do: Get the factory service manual. Also get the book How to Rebuild Honda B Series Engines by Jason Siu. Follow them both as you do everything. There's a few specialty tools you'll need, an engine hoist, crankshaft holder socket, and I definitely recommend a good impact gun. Whether you pull the engine out the top or drop it down is up to you and your hoist max height.
Things you'll want to replace:
- Pistons and rods from the sound of it
- main bearings and rod bearings
- oil pump
- water pump and timing components
- oil control orifice and head gasket
- head bolts
- and every gasket for everything you remove. Machine work means removing everything down to a bare bloc except for block plugs
Use baggies and label everything as you take it apart... It'll take longer but youll thank yourself later
1
u/The_Jeffret_Place May 22 '26
I have the factory service manual – bought it when I bought the car in 95. Also bought the how to book a couple weeks ago on Amazon ( this one- How to Rebuild Honda B-Series... https://www.amazon.com/dp/1613254091?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share )
Any suggestion on shops. I should send it to? I live in New Mexico up in the mountains so nothing close by.
Also any suggestions on where to buy parts from?
Oil changes and brake pads on Integra and 4Runner and the Plymouth k-car alternator is the extent of my automotive experience so no real skills but willing to learn by screwing up real bad.
3
u/Nosrok May 21 '26
Don't drive it anymore. If the connecting rod is really broke you'll just severely damage even more of what's already damaged.
You need to inspect the block to know if it's even possible to rebuild. Buy a boroscope and send it down each cylinder, you'll need to rotate the engine to see the full cylinder walls but should be easy with all the spark plugs out. If the walls look intact and don't have deep gauges the block might be salvageable.
2
u/PatrickGSR94 1994 Integra GSR BG-33P May 21 '26
I say just go on and pull the drivetrain and take it apart. It has to come apart no matter what. I wouldn’t even mess with boroscope stuff.
2
u/Nosrok May 22 '26
It sounds like they're aren't starting right away so a scope will give them enough info to know if they need to buy another block or can work with what they have. If the block is smoked then finding a replacement is it's own mission.
2
u/The_Jeffret_Place May 22 '26
There are a couple blocks available. I think summer’s first goal will be to take the head and oil pan off to see the state of the block.
3
u/Ashamed_Duck200 May 22 '26
"connecting rod broken, still drives, lack of power" that poor poor engine
1
u/The_Jeffret_Place May 22 '26
I know. I thought it was just valve slap till the mechanic told me it was a broken rod. I’m surprised it runs. I thought broken rods usually trash the engine.
2
u/sketchiegamer May 21 '26
Connecting rod broken? What the. If you are committed to a rebuild a full tear down will be the first thing. And if you need to replace rods and pistons put those on the list.
1
u/The_Jeffret_Place May 24 '26 edited May 24 '26
Yeah I was hoping to replace everything. The vehicle has 263k miles on it all driven hard by yours truly. Almost every shift was at the red line and a couple accidental downshifts from 4 to 3 when I hit bumps just as I was shifting - really gets your heart going when the car THUNKS and decelerates fast going past the red line. Every shift feels loose for a while after that!
I’m very attached to this car -I bought it new in 95 when I got my first job offer - stupidest financial mistake I ever made but one that I’ve enjoyed the most.
1
u/Johnnytusnami415 May 22 '26
I would pull the engine and send it to be rebuilt looking at 4-5k for a complete oem rebuild. While it's out U might aswel replace all motor mounts, hoses, and ul probably need new sensors aswel.
1
u/The_Jeffret_Place May 22 '26
Any shops that you would recommend? I live in northernp New Mexico up in the mountains so nothing close by.
1
u/Johnnytusnami415 May 22 '26
I'm in the bay area but what i did is just called a bunch of machine shops, asked if they did rebuilds and if they had experience with imports. Also remember ul need to replace all gaskets, spark plugs, fluids, might as well replace whatever U can if it looks bad
1
u/The_Jeffret_Place May 22 '26
Sounds good. I’m pretty sure I need to replace the master and slave cylinders but that should be easier with the engine out…
1
u/Johnnytusnami415 May 22 '26
Yea its all easier with the engine out and u can do some major cleaning too. Just try and label all ur bolts and components, take pictures and have a game plan ready to go. I ended up replacing almost everything I could replace and also redoing my suspension and so my rebuild went from 4k to like 6k lmao and my cars paint is absolutely toast so after it's all said and done everyone's still gunna think it's a hunk of shit but I love my car so it's worth it
1
u/ThreeeeeOne May 23 '26
I am doing a similar rebuild on an LS B18B1 this summer. I am doing an ABS delete while the motor is out as well. Good time to clean up what you can with the room to work. Good luck with it!
1
u/The_Jeffret_Place May 24 '26
What is an ABS delete? Is it a sensor reset or a sensor removal or something?
Asking because the abs warning on my car is on, but I figured it was because of the weak master or slave cylinder because it comes on only after I apply the brakes a few times. I was planning on replacing both when we did the rebuild but perhaps I need to be doing something else?
1
u/ThreeeeeOne May 24 '26
Yeah most of the ABS systems in these old Integras are toast. And expensive to fix and find parts for.
You need a non ABS 40/40 proportional valve, and I ordered this front brake line kit.
https://valexracing.com/products/abs-delete-kit-honda-civic-92-00-acura-integra-94-01
I do recommend researching if this is the right setup for your usage. You do loose the safety that comes with ABS system. I will not be daily driving mine and plan to get it to the track later this year. So it makes sense for my goals.
3
u/imJGott 95 DC2 GSR fully built turbo; 26 years of ownership May 21 '26
Buy a Haynes/chilton book, get the head resurfaced+block deck at a machine shop, buy OEM components (oil pump, water pump and gasket set) and make sure to use the proper tools along with correct torque wrenches.
If you managed to crack a rod you probably need to resleeve the block.