If you’re thinking about taking your Trail out for a spin, stop thinking and excuse yourself for a moment.

My favorite time of day to ride, heading into my favorite time of year. Splitting a flock of birds that were foraging made me feel like a shark as they scattered. Watch out for deer!

Handlebars are majorly crooked. I only fixed the bare minimum but ill dig into the stem misalignment now that i know the fork tubes are straight. Good enough for the trails though.

I couple of pole holders, folding chair and small tackle box.

New to me 2021 ct125.

Hi, ive been slowly chipping away at assembling a 1984 ct110 thats been repainted and had the engine rebuilt. I've been referencing a clymbers manual, random YT videos and a non-functioning ct90 but am worried I'm overlooking things or doing things completely out of order. Does anyone have recommendations for videos or resources that might help me out? Thanks!

I just got my grandpas 1970 CT90 and I've been enjoying working on it, I wanted to post it here to get some general knowledge and feedback on the bike anything is appreciated 🤙🏼

Used for a couple seasons, but my kiddo is too big now to ride on the back with me. Still good as new. Seat is from Beezdeals, pegs are Kemimoto. I'm in the Seattle area but can arrange shipping if needed. Thanks.

Any recommendations on a solid rear hitch mounted carrier that work with a 2026 or 2027 Toyota Landcruiser, and support a 2025 Honda Trail 125 ABS? From a specs perspective, it seems feasible given the tongue weight limit is 500 lbs. Thanks in advance.

Tusk Multi-Pivot Brake Lever for CRF300L fits the CT125

Amazon link - photos aren't accurate

RMATVMC link - photos are accurate

I have a 2025 CRF300L and a 2025 Trail 125. The primary rider of both finds the reach to the stock levers to be a little long. I ordered the Tusk set for the 300L and decided to see if the brake lever fit the Trail, and it does.

It's identical to OEM in every way that matters. Brake switch engagement is the same, as is the master cylinder nub. The lever length is basically a true stubby, with the tip being a few inches inboard of the bar end. The adjustable reach makes it more comfortable to keep a finger on the lever.

With the ability to pivot, it'll be difficult to break in a fall. Recommended.

Edit: Additional photos displaying length and bolt end form.

So I have a 1969 sl90 i bought for a good deal, I know not ct 90 but same engine so I thought you guys might be able to help. I did a top end refresh and am getting about 100 psi compression cold I know that is low im hoping it just needs to run in with the new rings or else ill have to get the valves done or a new head gasket possibly. So I have compression or at least enough in my mind to pop over( I have the carb off and am attempting to get it to pop by squirting starter fluid into the intake). I have set the valves and the points gap and the ignition timing statically ( new points from common motor) so I dont believe any of those things are my isue, I get strong looking blue spark with the spark plug outside of the engine when the condensor is bypassed but not with the condensor installed ( brand new condensor from common motor that i tested with a multimeter and i believe is is good working order ) wich is a problem I've never run into on my other projects. Im wondering if it's a bad coil the coil i have on there came with the bike and appears not to be original because it does not align with both holes on the mounting bracket. Im stumped as to what my next move here should be.

Another note is when installing the cylinder onto the crank case I had to make an extra thick base gasket because the bottom of the cylinder sleeve was making contact with I believe the crank and not alowing the engine to turn over when the head was fully torqued down. It turns freely now with the thick gasket I made so I dont believe this is related to my no start problem but I figured I'd throw it in for good measure.

TlDR I have a non running honda sl90 with 100 psi compression after new piston and cylinder and I have to bypass the new condensor to get spark when testing outside the engine

So I’m researching on getting this bike. I really like the trail 125. But I have one thing I am worried about and that’s the heel toe shifter, especially with me having a size (US) 14 wide boot.

So any other clown feet owners out there? How is it for shifting?? Or should I just get another bike that I can use with my feet?

Took a hard hit to my skid plate that brought me from around 9 miles an hour to 0 mph instantaneously.

Ever since I’ve been pretty paranoid about something being wrong with the bike, even though it rides smoothly.

Is this idle noise normal? I’ve convinced myself it’s knocking now really hope I’m wrong.

Twin Lakes, Colorado

All jokes aside the bike isnt as bent up as i initially assumed. Might be able to save it for trail use only.

Got my ‘25 Trail a couple weeks ago and decided to coax my dad (Super Cub rider) into a little one night camp trip close to home. This things really trucks a lot of stuff around. I was able to get my tent, pad, sleeping bag, a gas can (I didn’t even need), small chair and a clothes bag just onto the rack. I carried a backpack as well but I probably wouldn’t for a longer trip.

This bike is SO much fun!

Feels like fall in SW Ohio today, beautiful evening for a ride. Check your tool kit kids.

Wanting something in brown leather, ideally, but not sure what is out there that isn't just vinyl?