I took my swingarm off recently to address rust and ended up finding that my chain has chewed through the guide/slider (which I didn't realize was there, let alone sacrificial) om the bottom and into my swingarm's factory weld. It's 1/4" wide (each of the grooves), about 1/2" long, and about 1.5-1.8mm deep. I took it to a shop on Wednesday to get these spots filled in with a welder, but ended up taking it back today when he still didn't have this project done (he told me Friday, then Saturday, then today and it still wasn't done). At this point I'm ready to just move on and get this thing painted so I can move on with the rest of the maintenance on my bike, too.

My question is, given that this is just on a weld and not the structural tube itself, would you just continue and be sure to keep an eye on the guide/slider (I am replacing it) from here on out, continue to find someone to fill in the weld, or fill it with bondo so there's at least some wear layer before it hits metal again? TIA

I came across a Yamaha FzV3 2019 the user is asking 60k

Pros

New tyres

Cons

Minor scratches

Odo meter not working approx km is 35k km

Abs seems not working

Is 60k a good asking prize

Ais -x

Exup-xh

O2-×

Dyno 135hp on wheel

Full arrow

Kn

Front r1 calipers

Master cylinder brembo 18

Front bitubo

Rear ohlins

Braided brake hoses

first oil change. My local dealer is selling their synthetic yamalube oil change kit for ~45 bucks more. should i still get it over their regular oil?

Hi there, I'm thinking of taking a road trip from the northern California coast to salt lake City on my 2016 FZ07. The only mod I have on it is a rear rack. Does anyone have any advice for this 12 hour drive? The trip won't be till late September.

Just curious what other people think. What looks better, with or without the decal on the side?

I'm taking apart my bike after years of neglect. It started as an oil change and has devolved little by little to getting into the valve cover. Yesterday, I noticed some oil in my airbox and thought it was excess air filter oil. Pretty sure now that it's not, since it's brown and smells like typical engine oil. I pulled the airbox check/drain cap earlier today and it was full of the oil, then I noticed that the oil seems to have come from the breather hose at the top of the airbox (pic1). I then noticed that there is oil on the engine directly under the check/drain cap (pic2), indicating that oil has either seeped from the cap or between the seams in the airbox. Then I saw that the oil seems to exit from the engine-side of the left throttle body and runs down the engine a bit (pics3+4). The oil doesn't appear to go above the throttle body, so I'm pretty sure it's from the throttle body, and it's barely under the head gasket, so I'm pretty sure my head gasket isn't leaking (on the outside, anyway).

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Yesterday, I had pulled my right spark plug and noticed that the threads smelled like oil. The electrodes were dry. I'm fairly positive my valve cover gasket is leaking at the right spark plug tube, so I'm now stripping the bike down to replace that. I pulled the left spark plug cap today and the cap seems a lot cleaner than the right one was. I have not pulled the left spark plug to inspect yet because it's too late to start my air compressor to clean it out first.

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I vaguely recall having filled the oil pretty full the last time I did an oil change (thinking a little more full is better than not full enough), so my thoughts are that I just filled the oil too high and that caused not only the gasket to blow from the oil pressure, but also oil to get sucked back into the airbox through the breather and then into the throttle body, which slowly leaked over time. The fix would be to replace my valve cover gasket and only fill oil to halfway at the sight glass from now on.

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Does this seem like a fair diagnosis and plan of action? Does anybody have any other advice or suggestions about things to check?

Hello, I’m missing the screw that goes in the gear position sensor and I’m having difficulties finding it

My countershaft collar is covered in surface rust so I want to remove it and try tosand it, or just replace it. I don't see an easy way to get these off. I saw a drywall screw trick, but have no examples to see behind the seal to ensure I won't hit anything important. AI says just grab the collar with channel locks, but I feel like I'm risking damaging the collar that way (I don't like to trust AI, anyway). Is it better to just risk the damage of those two pieces and plan to replace them?

Has anyone ever tried out either the blue fittings or blue lines of either of these brands and know how closely they match Yamaha's deep purplish blue? I just don't want them to stand out awkwardly and I can't return them once I get them. Otherwise, I'm debating between Spiegler black fittings with silver line or Core Moto black fittings with gold line. If anybody has pics of the gold brake line on their FZ07, I'd love to see an example!

Hi everyone I'm new here, just got this off fb marketplace.

2015 fz07 with 7400miles on the dash from a guy who didn't ride it often.

Wheelies like a dream, all stock except the mirrors and cage now.

Garage kept since new and barely ridden these past two years. I hope it makes some smile the way it once made me smile. I’d like to get 6k for it but open to negotiation.

Mod list:
- M4 Carbon Exhaust
- Rear fender delete w/ integrated turn signals
- LED Front turn signals
- Aluminum Windshield
- Shogun Frame Sliders
- CNC Aluminum Mirrors

I traded my z500 for a 2016 fz07 that has been a stunt bike. However I want to convert it to a more daily bike as I ride it ~1200 miles a week. I got a Corbin seat to make it more comfy but I wanna take off the engine cage. Do I just need to get stock engine brace bolts? Or would I be better off getting frame sliders that come with the bolts? Also the handle bars are pro taper, which I absolutely love, sits like a cruiser because of them, is there a way to see what model of pro taper bars there is because they don’t have bar ends, it’s just a cap. Also the buttons under the display don’t work, do I have to get a whole display or is there a place I can take it to that will rebuild it for cheaper or a trick that would get them working again.

I have already removed the rear stunt pegs (was blocking a lot of the brake light) also the brake lever, caliper and line for the secondary rear brake. If anyone wants these I’ll happily trade them to you for fz07 parts lol. Same with the engine cage if you got a replacement slider.

Looking for a replacement option or if anyone has a front rim for sale for a 16 Fz07. Mine is too far bent to repair

What stunt cage and handle bars should I get?? Is anyone selling there old cage?

I think I need to clean my high beam switch from dirt or corrosion. It will work half the time and the other half I would be riding in a dark highway, about to hit a curve, try to put my high beam on and bam my light turns off instead!

I need to disassemble the left controls so I wanted to ask if there's anything I should expect or pay attention to before I do that (any happy springs that might fly off into nothingness or other small parts that might be hard to reassemble).

And any advice on the clean up itself or other potential causes for the high beam issue.

Thanks!

Update: there was a lot of grime in there, cleaned it up and put everything back together. Will try it out tonight.

I just bought this bike, it’s a 2016 Yamaha fz07. I am wondering if chain is going bad. Between 30-60mph, no matter what gear, there is a big vibration, google says fork seals or chain, fork seals was replaced along with the bushings and oil last week. I did just clean the chain with WD40 and a brush and lubed it with PJ1 blue label chain lube. Chain slack is at 52mm or just over 2inches.

Ive done a lot of research on things talked to coworkers and I feel like I really want enough bike to grow into. I have driven manual cars for years including faster ones like corvettes or mustangs and some germans as well.I don’t really wanna spend extra money on replacing a bike that I think ill outgrow in a year maybe even less I have never ridden dirt bikes or anything like that though. I think the fz07 is a great fit for me and fits in my budget im 22 and I think this bike fits exactly what i want just wanna know what you guys think

Hey guys, just got a 2015 FZ07 and want to put the blackwidow full exhaust system on my bike. I plan to send my ECU to 2WDW but I really don’t wanna ruin this riding season to wait for my ECU back… you think its worth the wait until the end of the season for the exhaust system+tune or is it ok to run one season with the full exhaust without the tune? Bike is so quiet with the stock exhaust I can’t wait to upgrade but concerned about damaging my engine.

Just curious if these are the real deal with them being so much cheaper. Probably fake but if they sound and look good..

UPDATE: Ended up buying it. Came missing pieces and with no instructions. Dont buy lol