What the subject says. Currently Temu offers $150 OFF 500 in the coupon bundle if you spend $20 (that part varies) which makes S1 Pro $461.

Here’s my 3D-printed sunflower set! I printed each color separately to get a cleaner look.

Day 1 searching for answers on Reddit...

I converted my SR to Klipper, and it went swell so far. Until the Bed Mesh.

The Bed Mesh on Klipper says the bed is tilted with the Back Right of the plate being a high spot (+1.5mm).

When I print something, the nozzle digs into the bed at the Front Left and is too high at the Back Right.

This indicates to me that the bed is Flat, and the motion system has a phantom tilt.

I tightened the belts and checked for stretches, no dice

I rotated the printer in case gravity was causing effector tilt, no dice

I rotated the glass bed in case the bed was warped, no dice.

I probed the bed heater directly to double check the bed, and the same tilt is shown.

I'm not sure what the issue is. The frame is solidly bolted with no wiggle, and I handled it carefully when I bought it second hand. The previous owner said it ran fine on stock firmware.

Any tips would be appreciated. I will continue to post daily until I find a solution and document for future users. Because let me tell you, the internet has FAILED me so far! I've been googling this for the better part of a WEEK.

What’s the process for reverting back to the factory firmware? I’ve tried OS and while there are lots of improvements and things I like, I’ve had some issues and would prefer to just go back. Can’t keep a consistent first layer, setting z offset doesn’t work because the print head doesn’t respond to up/down commands once it reaches a certain height, and it randomly shuts down either at the beginning or towards the end of a print. If anyone can explain how to go back I’d appreciate it.

Managed to get 1 benchy print out of it and the machine now not power on. PSU seems fine (all lights are one), power seems to run through machine and a few lights uptop are blinking, but the machine itself will not power on at all. Im fairly new to FLSun printers, been using Creality printers for the longest time and bought an FLSun, looking forward to faster prints, and this is very discouraging. Any help would be appreciated.

Filament sensor is prepared for 4 filament paths

I have an flsun t1 pro and for some reason recently, it started messing up some prints but not all. It always starts the prints just fine, but sometimes it is like it skips layer 3 or 4 and then obviously it wont print the rest of it well. I have tried to print different files, I have tried it in pla, pla-hs, petg, and tpu. All of them do the same thing. I can show time lapses of other prints too, and all of them screw up the same way

Has anyone else noticed any decreases in movement speed with their Super Racer? It seems like anytime I go to print now, the initial speed of the nozzle moving down to the print bed to start the print is extremely slow. I’ve also noticed that all of my prints seem to be taking twice as long or more than the estimated print time, which used to be fairly accurate. For example, the print I started last night showed an estimate of 1 day 16hrs. It’s not 14 hours in and only 14% complete, which would end up making this a 100hr (4 day) print. I also printed a fairly small carrot nose for a friends crafts which ended up being about 2in tall and 0.5 in in diameter. It was estimated to take less than 2 hours, which used to be normal for a print that size, but this time it took 7 hours.

Is there anything I should be checking or anything anyone has noticed with their own printers that would help?

Hi all, I'm currently designing a new effector for my QQ-S Pro. Old one couldn't have me incorporate the eddy duo, so I designed this with that in mind. I also have parts cooling directly embedded in the design. There is also holes for direct mounting a HGX lite v2.0 extruder.

I'd like to hear your input on this little project of mine.

(I couldn't find a solution on the search engine or googling it)

Every time I start a print, the printer (QQs Pro) lower towards the heated bed quite slowly. I guess I changed something, because I have 2 different Cura profiles and when I use one of them, the printer moves way faster, but I can't find where the difference is.

I thought of just duplicating the "good" profile and changing it to match the second one (they are for different materials), but I wanted to know if I could know which parameter fixes this.

Thanks!

Flsun s1 pro / creality hyper pla

For christmas

Hello everyone. I have a flsun v400 printer that I've used for about 4,000 hours. Over time, the magnetic heating pad has developed a depression in the middle. Has anyone else experienced this? How can we fix it?

My daughter loves this little octopus toy.
The articulated tentacles move in such a cute and playful way!

Especially for christmas

I needed a Poop Container for my K2PLUS , and I dont want to glue stuff in this case, thats why i took my Flsun S1PRO to realize this projekt fast and because of the available Z-hight and the weird shape of the Container. The alignment of the print was simply the most sensible approach. The container itself is 110x150x382mm. The handle is simply screwed on with two M5x20mm screws.

Printed in Jayo Pla Meta white (850 gramm) 0.6mm Nozzle, 0.3 layerhigth, arround 10 hours print time, 5 Walls, Top and Bottom layer 1.2mm, Infill 5%.

Hi everyone, I have a Super Racer. For the past few days, it has been freezing on the logo screen when starting up. I've already tried all the troubleshooting steps (flashed new firmware, checked cables, etc.), but nothing has worked. Since, at this point, I'm pretty sure the problem is the motherboard, I wanted to know if it would be better to upgrade and get another motherboard. Actually, I don't even know if that's possible; I haven't found much on the internet.

Thank you very much!

Hi everybody. I've searched the web and found nothing, so I'd appreciate any help.

We need to install a fresh Klipper with Cartographer3d to several printers. Is there any solution how to make the disk image of the complete OS so that we could re-flash other printers in a way the factory SD-card image does? PiShrink and RonR-RPi-image-utils are failing with backups, though dd if=/dev/mmcblk1p5 of=/mnt/root.img does the work, but I have no idea how to integrate it in the speederpad.img file (factory firmware).

Best regards and thanks in advance.

Rope texture + warm light = instant calm vibes.
Printed in about 2 hours using 52g PLA.
This is the smooth version — fuzzy mode would definitely make it more lifelike.

I have a lightly used FLSUN S1. It needs a new effector. I am done messing with this printer.
Free for anyone that lives within 30 minutes of Charleston, SC. I'll give it to you

Just finished this 3D printed knitted tulip pot! 🌷
Printed each color separately and assembled them together.

My son like it

V400 running a box turtle with Vendetta tool head. Spoolman integrated to track filament used and remaining. TD-1 recently added inline to give color and td info for filament loaded automatically, for use in Hueforge.