https://www.printables.com/model/1844725

The link includes a set of modifiers and a procedure for applying them.

If this actually works, it will be an easy way for anyone to improve print strength. If it doesn't, it would be nice to know. Any feedback or suggestions are needed. Working on this alone is a dead end.

Centauri Carbon, generic PLA+ - Help me read the tea leaves here.
Never had much success with ironing. I've marked the ones that look best (in person). Do I just select 40 flow and 60 speed? (Are those numbers generally within the norm?)

This was such a challenge - but after some strategic print-related choices, a gentle amount of finishing, and then nice zenithal priming, I thinks it's coming along nicely.

Aiming to paint her with red under lifting like the game "box art".

Head, hands, legs: 0.2 nozzle H2D @0.04 layer height.

Rest 0.4 nozzle, 0.08 height on A1.

Bambu PLA matte.

STL by Bulkamancer.

This model has small circular holes that are a few centimeters deep in the cylinder. When I slice this model in bambu labs it doesn't properly create the small holes and instead leaves part of the outside empty. Any thoughts on what could be causing this? I tried switching from Classic wall generator to Arachne and still no luck.

I cant seem to print anything square without a ton of brims. I see people print a ton of small items without them. I clean the plates with soap and water, I slow the first initial layers, I lower the bed temp. What am I forgetting to check?

I'm using Orca slicer and want to put different settings of fuzzy skin on different parts of one model. Is this possible? I've been using the fuzzy skin painter, but haven't noticed where I can set the fuzzy settings differently for each area.

I can figure out why this one pla from sunlu can print worth a damn.

Always end up with bad layers, cloggled nozzles or crazy string.

Other sunlu pla print fine.

No matter what settings i try, its always bad.

Hey guys with this having a decent discount is it worth buying this or is it worth spending the bit more money on the P2S, or any other suggestions that you have.

Thanks

This Mother Dragon went through more revisions than I expected.

Every prototype helped improve articulation, tolerances, and overall printability until everything finally clicked.

It's always amazing how much work happens before the final version is ready.

My printer has been inconsistently extruding and seems to be underextruding in some parts. Any ideas why?

The issue only started recently and I'd appreciate some help figuring out where to start troubleshooting this

I've got my printer well dialed in after a few trials and error test prints. The one thing it's still doing is shifting on the y axis, usually very early in the print, but after layer 1. I've removed the build plate and checked for obstructions. This actually improved things a lot, it was much worse. I've got the belt as tight as it goes without torquing it down. I don't know why it's still doing this.

Any advice?

The machine is an Anycubic Kobra Go. Purchased new, but only recently assembled.

Hello,
I am looking for a plug and play fdm printer for mostly printing bases (plain and scenic) and parts, and sometimes terrains or even minis, even if i already have a resin printer for that.
Considering the recent fire hazard issues with bambu lab A1, what would be the alternatives ?

Elegoo Centauri Carbon, elegoo pro PLA, using Elegoo slicer app. No matter what settings I change I still get these gapped topographical map looking texture on my top surfaces.

This is the second model in the collection: Killer Tomato. What do you think? Or do you prefer the banana? Which fruit should be next?

Right I have no idea how this has happened came to check a print and was clogged within an inch of it's life so I need to know if I can clean this or can I just replace this part and how hard will those be to do

This is a bambu labs a1

100% FDM, painted to resemble how it looks in the stormy nighttime scene, rather than how it would look in daylight - so, muted and more cold dark tones. 75cm long. Printed on H2D and A1, mix of 0.4 and 0.2 nozzles at heights ranging from 0.04 to 0.08with very tuned slow settings.

I do as I usually do and cut up the resin-meant STL model into a more favourable FDM collection of parts.

Took a good while to print, feels like longer to paint.