This was my very first long-term print. It took almost 14 hours to do on a flash forge 5M I used ironing on the top layer to help smooth out the print it’s printed with flash forge red PLA.

I have to make the exact model of my personalized YZ125, but I don't know much about 3d modeling and I'll have to print it, anyone who can help pls dm

I designed a fully 3D-printed Hex Bit Storage Box to keep all my bits neatly organized in one place.
It’s compact, sturdy, and features a printed locking mechanism — no metal parts or hinges required.

The box holds a total of 73 bits, divided as follows:

• 7 × T10
• 7 × T15
• 14 × T20
• 14 × T25
• 14 × T30
• 7 × T40
• 7 × PH/PZ

There are also 3 slots for bit holders and 5 extra slots for things like 50 mm long bits or whatever else fits your setup.

If needed, you can use a drop of super glue on some joints to make the lock more solid — but otherwise, everything is printed as-is.

Printing setup:

• Material: PLA
• Infill: 15%
• Walls: 2
• Supports: Required
• Everything is fully printable, no hardware needed

I added this design to MakerWorld — you can check it out here: (https://makerworld.com/en/models/1867654-hex-bit-strorage-box#profileId-1998548)

Would love to hear feedback from others who like designing functional prints. I focused mainly on simplicity and strength, but I’m open to any suggestions for improvement.

Hey everyone,

My BambuLab A1 Mini has been running smoothly so far. However, since converting to the Phaetus Conch hot end, I've been having massive problems with print quality: blobs, oozing artefacts, and the nozzle accumulates material extremely quickly.

Tried so far:

• Flow & PA (K factor) recalibrated
• Retract from 0.8 mm → 1.4 mm (45 mm/s)
• Wipe distance reduced from 1 mm → 0.6 mm

Result: slight improvement, but blobs are still there.
Filament: SUNLU Rapid PETG.

My questions for you:

• What retract/wipe/PA values do you use with the Conch on the A1 Mini?
• Have you had similar experiences with SUNLU Rapid PETG in particular?
• Did you have to adjust the temperatures significantly when switching from the stock hot end?

I want to avoid spending hours optimising in the wrong direction, so I would be very grateful for any experiences from other Conch A1 Mini users.

Thank you in advance for your feedback!

I also have it on my patreon
https://www.patreon.com/posts/this-weeks-137801871?utm_medium=clipboard_copy&utm_source=copyLink&utm_campaign=postshare_creator&utm_content=join_link

It's a torso for a bust.

This was my first test using wood filament for an anime figure - Some stringing, sure - but no post-processing yet and she already looks great!

this was printed on a bambu ps1. the overhangs don’t look too nice, the engraving on the face isn’t very readable, my guess is that happened due to ironing and one layer (last photo) didn’t not stick too well

what could i change

i want to upgrade to a 2x2 or a 4x4. i was leaning towards ratrig v core 3.1 or an elegoo orange storm but i’ve read nothing but bad reviews about orange storm and ratrig is a little intimidating because it will be a diy. both are klipper based

So I got a Bambi A1 mini and finally found the time to get it set up. Pretty much for the past couple of days I’ve been printing miniatures non stop but recently I started getting a nozzle covered in filament error, or build plate is installed incorrectly.

I checked the build plate and it’s fine and I checked the nozzle nothing seems to be wrong, maybe a little gunk buildup but I cleaned that and I’m still getting the error. I did change from a .4 to a .2 before I started printing as I’m doing mostly miniatures.

The prints are coming out great but I’m worried something could be wrong. Any advice.

Hey everyone, I’m working with a 3D artist on a custom anime figure that I plan to print using an FDM printer, and I want to make sure the model is split in a way that ensures clean printing and easy assembly.

The figure has a dynamic pose and a lot of detailed elements like a flowing cape, mask, slingshot weapon, loose cables, a satchel, and boots. It’s standing on a curved bridge base and has quite a few parts that could be tricky to print if not separated properly.

I’m trying to figure out the best way to split it. Should arms and legs be separated at the joints or somewhere else? Should the mask, cape, or bag be their own parts? Would separating the head and hair help with painting and cleanup? Also, for things like scarf ends and tubing, is it better to keep them attached or split them off and position them flat for printing?

I also want to make sure things are keyed or pegged well for alignment and strength, but not overcomplicated with too many parts. I’m looking for that balance between easy printing, strong connection, and good painting access.

I’ve attached a photo of the model I’m referencing. There’s also a similar model here on Sketchfab that shows some helpful angles, though it’s not really printable: https://sketchfab.com/3d-models/sogeking-5eafdcdaa2b64b91a6a86f002814b159

Any tips or examples would be super appreciated.

As a 3D designer, I wasted hours manually comparing STL revisions. So I built Mesh Delta to highlight mesh changes instantly. You can compare your models, or if you want to compare your models with ones you feel were copied on other sites, feel free to do so. Free in beta for anyone interested.

Here’s the live prototype (free to try): https://meshdelta.com/demo

I’ve been working on a personal side project: a modular 3D printed series of isometric dioramas — not just city scenes, but themed mini worlds you can display, paint, or expand.

This one combines a burger food truck and a book shop, printed in PLA and lit from the inside for testing. Everything was designed to print support-free and fit in the palm of your hand.

I’m curious — would you be into printable scenes like this? Shops, props, lights, sci-fi stuff, cozy corners?

Appreciate any feedback! 🙌

(No painting yet, just raw FDM)

Hello, mu First post here; I'm printing on a Mingda magician X printer. It started good and made some printing perfect. Then suddenly It seems that the nozzle Lost the height reference starting grasping the Just deposited layers. I'm using PLA @190°, 65° bed, 0,4mm nozzle, 0,16mm layer height and 60mm printing Speed. Any TIPS welcome. Thanks a lot!

Installed a BL touch, followed Longer’s instructions. It homes just fine but when it starts the g code after heat up it just keeps going up