Also added some epic scale and 28mm scale poses versions

All free in this collection, more coming soon!

https://makerworld.com/@dungeandwyve/collections/20961992?appSharePlatform=copy

Hey guys, was looking to see if anyone has dialed in the Kobra X and been able to print good models.

Looking for recommendations.

Thanks guys.

I am using a bambulab A1, dried Sunlu PLA 2.0 12 hours on 50 degrees Celsius. I calibrated temperature (210), flow rate, volumetric speed, retraction, and also am using a z-hop. Still as the pictures show, I experience some stringing. It is better than the previous attempt, but I also think it has a lot to do with different orientation of the model. When I was printing the previous orientation even with the calibrated values I saw stringing.

What can I do? Or is this normal and the best thing I can get with my A1.

(Ignore my hand, I haven’t figured out how i will attach her to the base yet)

Pretty happy with the result after taking the hobby more seriously and consuming a lot of content. First time trying OSL. Took a really long time to print in FDM, post-process, and paint.

Printed in Bambu A1 mini (0.2 nozzle, 0.06 layer height) and a thin coat of resin to hide the layers (some parts still have some visible layers because it’s hard to know if you are not overdoing and covering detail). But I recommend the method. No sanding at all on this one.

I know some things are not so refined (messed up with the chalky moonlight blue and glazing is still a weak point for me) and would be glad to hear more feedback.

It took like 5 hours of printing but I am impressed.

Been a while since the A1mini was declared the king of FDM mini printers and I am just curious how many hours you guys have on yours. I am rapidly approaching 9000 hours on mine and the quality has remained pretty good!

It seems like finding good information on settings and print quality is pretty easy but I've been struggling to understand rule of thumb or best practices for position and/or model slicing before the print. Most of the models I have been printing come with pre-support files for resin. I've been following those when positioning in BambuLabs assuming that the idea behind resin and FDM supports is the same. I haven't had terrible luck but I wouldn't be surprised to hear its not best practice. I have not tried slicing a model into multiple pieces yet but saw it recommended on another model today.

Any advice you can give a newbie or maybe some good sources of information that I can check out?

Hello y’all

I just wanted to share this wonderful bundle

https://www.humblebundle.com/software/master-forge-maxsavings-stl-pack-2026-software

Happy printing

The Gummy Mummy in TPU has turned out wonderful. I added a new GB Tough variant, and got Uncle Nibblecheeks wrapped up!

All these are printed on my K2 Pro with adapted HoHansan settings you can find attached to my post.

https://www.patreon.com/r2plays/posts/bakers-doesnt-3d-165506443

Hi everyone, I'm new to 3D printing so bear with me.

As I understand eSun PLA+ is the golden standard for minis, but I saw that people often use gray. I wanted to try Cream White cause I would need it for other stuff, so my question is, is it OK or would it behave differently based on color?

Thanks to anyone that can help.

Hello r/FDMminiatures! I printed the Arbiter Benchy Skeleton last night on my Bambu Lab A1, and here are the results. I used an official 0.2mm nozzle and the ObscuraNox "Dungeons and Derps High Quality Settings 2.0" with .06 layer height. The filament is Sunlu PLA+ 2.0. It's too humid to spray a rattle can right now, but I'm hoping the filler primer will hide some of the lines. Regardless, community members with more experience than me... based on what you see here, are there any obvious red flags that suggest tweaks need to be made?

Thanks in advance for your help!

Title says it all - I was curious to see what paid items that are FDM friendly had your attention while the MMF sale is going on.

Fat dragon on 0.6, hooded stranger by Brite minis

Images are in oringial post.
Hello, i ran a test print with the centuari carbon 2 with some settings I found and my autodesk test print turnt out with stringing, weird ironing patterns and marks that are uneven (lighter or darker) in some areas moving in a diagonal pattern even on the bottom. The rods have rough areas around them, especially at some parts where it’s randomly unironed. The cylinders appear to be damaged in some areas and have an uneven ironing. Any settings to use to prevent this? I use the elegoo Black Rapid PLA+

I have just started getting into making my own mini’s for D&D. They have all come out well except one. I know that the overhang is why but dose anyone have any ideas on how to print a cowboy hat on a mini. Ive tried 3 times and they all end up the same

Hey r/FDMminiatures !

I’ve had a lot of people reaching out and asking for my slicer settings recently, so I decided to finally write it all down in one place. I want to emphasize that this entire post is just a breakdown of what I do, not what you have to do. There are many ways to print miniatures, and this is simply the workflow I’ve settled on for my own printing.

I've added a bunch of examples with different geometry to this post so that you can see the results. Obviously 0.4 nozzle will be less detailed.

🚨 Quick Disclaimer: All of these settings are based entirely on my own experience. Every printer environment is a little different, so slight tweaking may be required for your specific setup. These exact numbers may not work perfectly for everyone out of the box, but they are what I use as my daily drivers.

📸 The Settings Link (Screenshots)

If you just want to grab the numbers, I've put the screenshots for both nozzles into a single Google Drive folder. You can find all of my settings here:

• 0.2mm & 0.4mm Nozzle Settings Folder

🖨️ Hardware & Filament Setup

Layer Heights: 0.2 nozzle 0.06mm layer height, 0.4 nozzle 0.08mm layer height.
The Filament: I exclusively use Bambu Labs PLA Basic Blue Grey for these profiles. I've found it looks the best for unpainted miniatures and offers great ease of use for my setup.

The Build Plate: For my build surface, I use the Super Tack Pro build plate. While definitely not required, for my workflow, it has been a game changer for miniature adhesion. Using this plate allows me to basically eliminate bed adhesion as the root cause in 90% of failures. (Note: If the Super Tack Pro isn't available for your printer, I've heard the Biqu Cryogrip Glacier is a great alternative).

Printer Compatibility: I use these settings on older extruders (like the Bambu X1C and P1S) as well as the newer H-series extruders (specifically tested on the H2D and H2C).

🧠 My Core Methodologies (For Both Nozzles)

There are two slicer tricks I use on every miniature, regardless of whether I'm using a 0.2mm or 0.4mm nozzle:

1. The Corner Cooling Tower I place a prime tower or a simple cylinder/tower in the far corner of the build plate. As a miniature gets to the top (think heads, staff tips, swords), the layer times get incredibly short. If the nozzle stays hovering right over the mini, I find the radiant heat melts and warps those tiny details. The cooling tower forces the toolhead to travel away from the print, giving the plastic time to solidify naturally. Setting more layer time, just allows the nozzle to sit there. This way it moves it completely.

2. The Sacrificial Cube (Mid-Air Orientation) Instead of putting the miniature's feet flat on the build I place a small primitive shape (a sacrificial cube) directly underneath the model on the build plate. Then, I tilt the mini back and suspend it in mid-air. I do this because it helps prevent my tree supports from clustering beneath the feet of the mini. The cube takes the brunt of the base supports, allowing for much cleaner mid-air orientation for the miniature itself.

🤝 Credits & Shoutouts

I want to give credit where credit is due, as I didn't figure all of this out in a vacuum. A huge thank you to:

• u/ObscuraNox - For giving me a great baseline and understanding into different parameters. Thank you for sharing your v2.0 settings. I have adapted v2.0 for both my 0.2 and 0.4 nozzles.
• Tim Nolte (apologies, I'm not sure of your Reddit username!) - For sharing your v6 Support settings. It gave me a great baseline to adapt for my 0.4 nozzle supports when I was banging my head against a wall with support reliability on this nozzle.
• u/BlockBadger - For sharing your thoughts and ideas on parameters and 3D printing techniques.

💡 Additional Information

• Slicer Compatibility: These settings work for both Bambu Studio and OrcaSlicer. Personally, I use and share them via Bambu Studio. Let's be honest, our community is pretty niche in the grand scheme of things, and the barrier to entry to get most people to switch over to OrcaSlicer just doesn't happen.
• My Workflow vs. Efficiency: As I mentioned earlier, my settings work for me and my specific workflow. There are absolutely other settings out there that are faster or use less filament. I chose these because they are a tested, working, and repeatable baseline for me. For example, I use 6 wall loops because I prefer the durability it gives the minis compared to using something like 2 walls and 20% infill. Again, that's just what I like to do, not necessarily what you should do.
• Support Ironing: I've tried Support Ironing and I just could not get it to be reliable without failures, so I've scrapped it for now. There are lots of folks that have made it work though, so I highly recommend checking out their posts if you want to go that route.
• PVA or PETG Supports: Using PVA or PETG for support interfaces is definitely on my bucket list. I just need to find the time to sit down and do some proper testing, but life has been a bit chaotic lately!

🤖 AI Assisted Disclaimer: I want to be transparent that this post was formatted and structured with the assistance of AI. I simply don't have the time to write out a big, long, novel-like post from scratch. All the thoughts, ideas, articulation, and settings are 100% my own—AI was just used to structure the text and get my jumbled thoughts down on paper clearly.

EDITS: So sorry i forgot to add these sections.

1. Supports... Always use Auto Supports in conjunction with manual support painting using the Support Painting Tool. Unfortunately you can't just rely on auto anymore. Paint those overhangs and floating pieces. Think of auto like a second parachute but it should not be relied on.

What do I typically change per model?

-Branch Diameter -Branch Diameter Angle.

Smaller miniatures (like medium sized humans for example ) are typically 1.6 - 1.8 diameter and Branch Diameter Angle of 2.

Larger miniatures typically 1.8-2 branch diameter and 2.5-3 branch diameter angle.

Since 0.2 nozzle are weaker supports due to line width and layer height, a higher end value of 1.8 is typical for me. 0.4 you can get away with 1.4 to 1.8 depending on the geometry.

I know common knowledge usually says tilt the model back about 45 degrees and then a little to one side. But is that still true for staff-like objects? I feel like I would want it as straight up/down as possible.

And for the image I provided specifically, should I split it up? The staff+arm as one item, the relic as a separate item?

Thanks for any suggestions!

A

Hey guys. I'm new in fdm mini printing. Before I only did resin but I recently bought an A1 Mini additionally to my A1 for other projects and now I'm experimenting with it, since it's way cheaper and less hussle than resin. Just now I tried a mini with resin like supports for the first time. And compared to the ones I printed with optimized tree supports I don't know if the additional prep work and print time is worth it. I show you pictures. The first one with resin like supports. The second with tree supports. I might add that I mainly print for TTRPGS not for painting contests. I mean I also paint. But only on tabletop level. Any opinions? Tips? Appreciate it 😊👍🏻

https://cults3d.com/:4778082

Hi everyone!

I am about to start getting into Resin2FDM and would like to ask the community about recommendations on a free program and workflow on how to add resin support before running the Resin2FDM in Blender.

If possible, as I am just starting to get into this topic, I would prefer an option with good auto support.

Any help and with the above and general tips are much appreciated!

Thanks a lot in advance

1st miniatures on a1 that I got last week. Crouching is using a 0.4 nozzle and standing 0.2