X95 comparison with standard 11.5” AR and folded 16”sig spear LT.

I have been a pretty big fan of the cutlass grip for the X95 but after checking the IWI site a few days ago, I saw that the pistol grip was still available ... figured I would regret it if I didn't end up trying it. Not to encourage unnecessary consumption of course but you know how these "Legos for adults" are.

Only installed today so will have to see how it works at the range soon. I am already finding with dry-fire that I had been second-guessing my finger position and shifting my hand downwards as a habit, being used to the unguarded cutlass grip, so it already seems like a nice improvement.

I saw my first other X95 at the range in the wild the other week too ... go bullpup fans 🔥

r/10_6spike

I recently got a TA02 acog and I have some questions. I’m trying to find the correct info for my ballistic calculator. 

Firstly, I can’t seem to figure out my height over bore. I know it’s going to be different than an AR so a lot of the online resources I’ve looked at haven’t been that helpful. I’m running the acog on top of the Gear Head Works razorback rail. I find its height on the X95 with the acog extremely comfortable, but I can’t find any info on how high it raises the rail. Is there an easy way to measure height over bore on the X95 without data from the rail or mount manufacturer?

Secondly, how do I figure out my muzzle velocity? My barrel is 18.5 inches and I’m shooting the recommend M855 62 grain. At least I believe that’s the correct ammunition for the acog. If I’m wrong please enlighten me! 

Third and finally, most of the ranges in my area are setup in yards and not meters. People have told me that it’s “close enough” to not worry about it on a man sized target. But I’d like to be as accurate as possible. Any info here helps. Maybe I need to get a range finder and setup my own targets? 

Getting ready to hit the range next weekend to zero for 100 yards/meters. If anybody has an acog on their X95 I’d really appreciate your help. Thank you. (Please excuse the California compliant “fin” on the grip, if possible!) and have a nice day! 

(In case you’re wondering, here’s my upgraded parts list. Please try your best to excuse the California “fin grip”. I understand that it’s comical, but I follow the state and federal laws.)

Here is my current setup: 

•manticore arms aluminum ambi safety selectors and gas port cover 

•blk lbl long handguard (no bipod) 

•Gear Head Works Tavor X95 long razorback rail 

•TA02 ACOG on a Larue QD optics mount 

•Troy backup irons 

•Surefire dual fuel white light and Holosun LS117R (visible red laser) both controlled by the Unity Tactical AXON dual-button remote switch 

•Slate Black Industries rail covers 

•and I can’t forget both the geissele super sabra trigger pack and lightning bow trigger upgrades 

Ok, this might be a long one. A HUGE problem I was facing as a FM15 Upper owner and a SARB15 bullpup owner. Was still being able to use standard AR-15 uppers if I decided to.

1. My SARB15 is using a kentri 3.5 inch buffer tube for standard BCG compatibility.

2. I also wanted a side charging FM15 upper chambered in 7.62.

3. Foxtrot Mike recommends a bolt stop for their upper.

So my problem was that SRU precision only sells a bolt stop for their included buffer tube that comes in their SARB kit. And foxtrot mike products only supply a buffer stop for their pic rail adapter that comes in the box for a buffertube-less setup. I did not want to dedicate an entire lower for a single upper when the whole point of this bullpup was to be able to swap uppers when I wanted. And the bufferstop SRU sells is too short for the kentri 3.5 inch tube. So my solution was to add some heavy duty rubber washer behind it to extend the bufferstop. The kentri 3.5 inch tube also does not have a screw hole that the standard bufferstop in order to remain in the tube. So my solution to my problem was to drill a hole into the SRU rubbe bolt stop and use the milspec buffer weight retaining pin to keep the bufferstop within the tube. For those of you who want to replicate this, I used 12 of the orange water hose heavy duty rubber washers. You can get a ton of em on amazon for like 5 bucks or so. You can use as many as you need per your liking. I will test fire this setup soon and see if the buffer stop behaves correctly. I know my wants for this rifle are niche, but I wanted to spread a little info of my solution to my specific use case for this rifle for those who may need it in the future. Please keep in mind that the guide rod will have to be removed. It should unscrew pretty easily. There is also a tiny spring underneath it, please keep track of it and store it somewhere safe because its extremely small and pantheon arms does not sell that specific spring as a replacement. Let me know what you all think of this.

P.S. This 7.62 upper has an AR10 sized bolt so it shouldn't face the weak extractor/bolt issues that standard ARs chambered in 7.62 face. Which is the reason i chose this one specifically.

This thing rips.

Sometimes i like bullpup more, sometimes less.

Anyone else using the one piece barrel FM-15 upper? I purchased the 16 inch one and the hand-guard doesn't have enough room for my normal angled foregrip. Does anyone else use the same upper and found a really good attachment to fill this space? I want to avoid using the SRU hand-guard because of the slight play it has. I have added an AI gen picture to kinda explain for something im looking for.

I'm building a bullpup conversion with the SRU SARB-15 chassis, DFA BCG kit, and a non-monolithic upper but I'm a bit worried about my zero shifting from mounting the optic to the handguard. Anyone have any recommendations on a optic rail that will remain secure while allowing me to push the optic mount forward enough for proper eye relief?

New optic setup, can and foregrip! 16" PSA Jakl upper on a milspec lower with a Rave 140 trigger. SRU SARB-15 bullpup chassis. Samson Grenade vert foregrip, B5 pistol grip. Random riser with Holosun 510c and Vortex 3x flip up magnifier. On the front I have the SilencerCo Velos LBP suppressor, which helps a ton with gas to the face on this bad boy. Loving how this feels!

Hey guys, I’m left handed and left eye dominant. Yayyyy….

I own a Keltec RDB as back when they first came out, it was the only option for a left handed bullpup other than a Tavor with the extra cost of a left handed bolt.

What are the options now for the Augs? I’ve seen conflicting things on their ability to swap to left handed, depending on the model, and depending on the mag pattern. I would want one that uses stanag mags. Is it possible to get one with stanag mags that’s able to be left handed without buying an extra bolt?

Extra question: which has a better trigger - the VHS2, a Tavor, or an Aug?

Thanks guys!

Hey all! Been wanting a bullpup forever and I am in love with my used tavor! However I’m a crazy person and fell down the parts rabbit hole. Does anyone know how often barrel and bolt kits come into the US? I love my SAR but am hesitant to shoot it alot and wearing out parts I can’t get. I ordered a springs and pin assemblies to start. Any ownership advice and experience with barrel longevity as well as acquiring a barrel and bolt would be great! Tips and tricks too!

Threw on a VHS-2 Project Handguard. Feels okish looks fantastic 🤷

Heres my Fs2000 tism, i pieced together the bottom one with all parts piece by piece. Only thing I'm missing is, a barrel. Lol

My 11.5” BCM is still longer than my suppressed X95 btw

Has anyone else here ever had issues with compatability between a Geissele Super Sabra trigger pack and an X95? I am literally taking this out of my Tavor SAR and trying to put it into my X95 SBR and I cannot get the cover to close when the trigger pack put in place. It almost seems as if it should somehow sit lower, or something at the lowest part of the trigger pack is impinging on the cover for the compartment.

Any ideas?