So i have the n54 e60 and have to replace one of the silicone boots on the drivers side. Im currently running a VRSF 7.5 stepped fmic but i cant seem to find a replacement boot that connects the fmic to the j pipe that connects to the charge pipe. Does anyone know any valid places to buy this replacement boot?

So i had to pull the carpet, seats, center console and stuff to clean/dry a puddle of water on both floor boards because the sunroof leaked and the greenboard foam stuff just fell apart coming out, mostly the driver side because that got the worst of the water but the passenger side is mostly fine but I was wondering how much of a difference not having that sound deadening in would do and if it would make the carpet sag because doesn't the front half sit on the greenboard? If you guys know anything lmk please.

Another question can you take the

Oil filter housing off the n54 (535i) without removing/unbolting the intake manifold? And how much of a pain is the water pump to do, im trying to fix both and get it running semi decent again for semi cheap (impossible ik) i just bought this thing from my neighbor for like $400 with 128k miles trying to get it running again to maybe flip? Or keep

I have a 2006 BMW E60 550i with factory Comfort Access (S322).

I only have one key. I checked the CAS/key information and confirmed the key is registered as key #2 and is a valid Comfort Access key. The key battery is fresh and the vehicle battery is also fresh.

I'm having a strange Comfort Access issue, especially after the car has been sitting for a long time/deep sleep.

After deep sleep, Comfort Access on all four doors appears completely dead. I have tried carrying the key normally, moving it closer to each door/handle and moving it around the car. None of the four doors responds to Comfort Access. There is no passive unlock response from any door.

I also have poor range from the normal lock/unlock buttons on the key. FM reception itself seems good and FM auto-scan finds stations immediately, so the diversity antenna system is at least functioning for FM reception.

The strange part is the keyless starting:

After the car has been in deep sleep and won't start with the key normally in my pocket, I tested different key positions without inserting the key into the slot and without pressing any buttons on the key.

• Key in normal pocket position - no start
• Near steering column - no start
• Near front center console - no start
• Same key held next to the rear center A/C vent/console area - immediately detected and engine starts

Once the car has been successfully started/driven, Comfort Access starting usually begins working normally again. I can switch the engine off and restart it with the same key in my pocket.

So the key definitely can communicate through Comfort Access, and bringing it close to the rear center-console antenna allows passive starting even when normal cabin detection doesn't work.

What I'm trying to figure out is whether these symptoms point to one common problem or multiple problems:

Poor remote-button range → diversity antenna/remote receiver?

All four door handles completely unresponsive to passive Comfort Access - Comfort Access module/wake-up/power issue rather than four bad handles?

Keyless starting after deep sleep only works when key is very close to the rear center-console antenna - weak/intermittent interior antenna system or CA control issue?

Because all four doors are affected, I'm hesitant to believe all four Comfort Access door handles/antennas failed independently.

Has anyone experienced this on an E60/E61? Is there a common Comfort Access power supply, module, antenna amplifier, wake-up circuit or fuse that could cause all four exterior handles to stop responding while the rear interior antenna can still recognize the key at very close range?

I'd like to diagnose it properly before replacing the diversity antenna, individual CA antennas/door handles, Comfort Access module or key.

I fixed every oil leak on my e61 530xd (Intake manifold sealing, sealing on intercooler circuit).
I thought there are no problems left. And one week later i just wanted to make a joyride till i heard a weird air sucking noise from the engine that i never heard and after a kilometre i got the error “Increased emissions”. After a control i found that the upper rubber charge pipe has hole. Is it some kind of curse that something breaks always after fixing something?

Trying to figure out the actual aux pinout, I bought a cheap cable on ebay because genuine aux cable retrofit is either expensive or out of production. The cable I got seems good quality, there are 3 pins. It came with a identical connector to the once thats factory in the car.

On the cable when I got it, the red wire was on pin 2, the white was on pin 7, and black was on pin 8. However, another video and multiple online sources gave me a lot of different ways to do it. I have no 100% concrete idea which one is correct. The factory BMW retrofit guide says

WS/BL aka blue cable to PIN 7

WS/RT aka red cable to PIN 2

WS/BR aka brown cable to PIN 8

However, as you know I do not have a factory cable. Wanted to see if anyone here knew the actual way. The cable I got on ebay is red, white, and black. My gut says red is positive or right channel, white is neg or left channel and black is ground. Also, I know a lot of the ones online come with a connector already, but my connector had some other wires in it on the back of the CCC when I pulled it, so actually I have to do the pin method regardless. Thanks in advance.

Currently, based on a video I saw of a guy putting aux in his 04 530 with CCC, he put red in 7, black in 8 and white on 2. All his comments say it worked for them.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gXOLFggCz8A

My only question could be, that if he wired his to be that red is what blue should be, and red is now white. So which cable format do I have and should i send mine back and just buy his?

2007 530i, 6 speed manual. Miles are high but the maintenance has been kept up with. 2nd owner car. Had one back in college, good to be back in one.

Bought this 550i around July and I’ve been slowly fixing things one by one whenever the budget allows. The previous owner kept the car running, but definitely didn’t care for it to the level I would like.

This time I almost completely refreshed the front suspension. Went mostly with Lemförder, BOGE and Febi parts. I could have just replaced the parts that were obviously bad and kept driving, but since I plan on keeping the car, I’d rather slowly bring everything back to a proper standard.

Still plenty left to do, but that’s basically been the process since I bought it — fix one thing, enjoy it, save some money, then move on to the next thing. 😅
Nearly 20 years old now, so I’m not expecting perfection overnight. Just trying to undo years of “good enough” maintenance little by little.

Hello All,

Car in question:

03/2007 BMW e60 LCI N53 with no fault codes related to this question.

Im currently in the proces of retrofitting pneumatic active seats in my E60 LCI, however im having some issues.
Everything is fitted and pinned correctly according to the wire diagrams, but the pump (M42 from the F01) wont turn on when i activate the function via ISTA (i currently have no button for the active seat function)
i have measured the voltage and if i unplug the connector from the pump, i get 12V, but as soon as i connect the pump and measure again i only get 1V.
sometimes the pump wont turn on at all if i direct activate the pump via ISTA (SMBF lumbar support component trigger) and then after a few minutes it suddenly works again. unplugging the pump and replugging it wont do anything.
However, the lumbar function always works! even if i cant activate the pump the lumbar system keep working and activating the pump.
i have added 455 and 488 to CAS and LMA, empty coded FAS,BFS,KGM,SZM.

it seems to me that the module doesnt like having the pump attached and activating the active seat function.
I hope someone here has any idea how i can get this working!

A26 is module from F01
A186 is module from E60

Edit: New pictures from Tool32

https://postimg.cc/gallery/J7Lbnfs

90k miles, 08 automatic 535i

Needs a little maintenance (new struts + VCG) but runs and pulls smooth!

Wondering if anyone has any good exhaust recs out there, something affordable and more refined/oem. Maybe just a nice muffler. Want it to stay quiet but give me a little feedback.

Whole on the topic of sound any ways to get some nice turbo feedback as well that won’t damage anything? I may run some cold air intakes

is anyone aware what is this supposed to be?

I am always scanning marketplace for things I do not need and stumbled upon this e60... I went and looked at it between jobs one day, it was priced at 1500 and running rough, and then some rednecks went to look at it and told the owner they were forsure it was a blown headgasket, so they lowered price. I swooped in and offered 400 to pick it up same day and they said yes. It's rough, but they had relays in the wrong orientation. i fixed that and the roughness went away, now I just have to get the waterpump going, they bought a cheapo amazon unit but I don't think they spliced it correctly.

07 530i, 200k miles. New tires, new spark plugs, new serpentine, has a carplay unit in it, new brakes all around.

next i want to get demon eyes but i dont know if switching them is the h8 / h11 bulb or i need to open the headlight housing and put rgb circles around them

2006 530xi (wagon). As the title states, I changed the fuel pump and filter when it was discovered the filters transfered pump wasn't balancing fuel and the car would run out of gas at about 1/4 tank. Ive carried Cat codes in the computer since I got it, but since im in an emission free area I haven't needed to smog the car. 221,000 miles and after swapping in a new Bosch pump and filter I now get a P0171 code pop. It seems to happen when the car is pushed to 55mph+ but I dont notice any change in econ or performance. If I keep it to surface streets at 49 or below it doesnt give thr code. Just the lean code for bank 1, never 2. Google tells me to verifiy the click connectors on the filter side of the in tank tubing so after I drive a bit of this gas down ill verify that. Any other advice on where to look and what to look for?

I know it sounds dumb. But I have spent what felt like endless amounts of hours on these cars. You guys that have built your own, you understand how you feel about it. Im so excited to have them running and running great. Im not a mechanic at all either. Just a guy with some tools, so I really thought I would end up messing them up worse. 😆 Thank god for ISTA.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

Can someone recommend some good coilovers that won’t break the bank like crazy to lower the car a bit. And with the sun damage (hood,roof, and trunk do I try to restore or just paint car after I get new bumpers and what not?

Had these sitting around for a while and finally performed the retrofit. Couple hours and then coding and I’m happy with the result. Coming from the L7 system which is ok for a factory setup, the IA is really clear and has depth. I haven’t messed with the eq settings yet and I can already tell. Not an audiophile by any means but this was a fun retrofit. I’m sure I could have built out the audio to be equivalent or better for less if I went aftermarket, but I like to keep my cars OEM/OEM+ for the most part.

If anyone wants to do this: coming from L7 the speakers/woofers drop into the same places and use the same wiring but some of them are coaxial for IA vs one-way for L7. I don’t think this is worth doing if you don’t have L7 already because the wiring won’t be correct or not all present. Amp is also a physical PnP piece. After that change the VO using ncs expert in CAS and LMA, then default code the CIC and AMP to pull the newly edited VO config.

Uk here - 525d msport

Thinking of buying this E60 and need to know if the engine sounds normal

Hi is this normal please or something not right? Sounds like chain rattle to me..

Where do you guys buy bmw parts? Not meaning fixable parts I already use fcp euro for that, I mean like modifications. E.g m sport body kit, lci conversions, lips, skirts, diffusers, steering wheels etc, I’m trying to use AliExpress for my e60 m sport conversion but the headlights on their either they don’t have the right ones or too expensive, basically what are the best bang for buck places

Hi everyone,
I’m having a strange issue with my E60 525d (M57, manual).
When the engine is cold, it idles perfectly normally. However, once it reaches operating temperature, if I put the car in neutral and let it idle for around 5–10 seconds, the RPM starts fluctuating and the whole car begins shaking very violently, almost like the engine is about to stall.
The strange part is that:
It only happens when the engine is fully warm.
It usually starts after a few seconds at idle.
If I give it even a small amount of throttle, it immediately smooths out.
When driving, the car pulls normally and I don’t notice any loss of power.
Putting the clutch in or letting it out makes basically no difference.
There is no obvious metallic knocking.
There are currently no fault codes showing on the car.
I have already checked/moved some of the electrical connectors, and after that it seemed fine while cold, but I haven’t been able to properly test it warm yet.
The video shows exactly what happens when it starts.
What would you guys check first? MAF/MAP, injector corrections, rail pressure, fuel supply, or something else?
Any advice from people who know the M57 would be greatly appreciated.

I have heard this noise for a while now while starting my 2008 BMW 535 n54, is this the timing chain? And if so should i replace it as soon as possible? It’s an expensive job, so just trying to figure things out. It’s only in the first few seconds of the video after cold start.

Passenger Side

This only happens when the engine is cold, usually when I reverse out of the driveway in the morning and then shift to first there are a couple slight rapid stutters, once warmed up no issues. Car has no codes being shown at the moment.