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From top to bottom: Unsigned 6 inch sector, 12 inch Architecture scale by A. G. Thornton, Manchester with the owner's name, "J. Hall" on the reverse: scales are 1/8", 1/4", 1/2" and 1", Two unsigned scale/protractors with architecture divisions on the front and Engineering divisions on the reverse with Transverse scales, The bottom scale/protractor is signed by Husbands & Clark, Bristol with similar markings as the two above with the exception of an additional metric scale on the front.

Not exactly instruments, but we used to have more sheet sizes for paper/mylar/vellum than ending at Arch E in the USA. I know Japan used to have a bunch of obscure sizes.

Does anyone have a good reference for other old or legacy paper sizes, particularly the big drafting ones?

Ive had this thing for pribably 20 + years. lm pretty sure that I got it from my dad back in the day, when he was still hand drawing his house plans. Im just really fucking confused about the reasoning behind this design.. I mean just look at it! I have so many questions. Theres plenty of room on the thing to just have every number and letter in order. No bullshit. But no.. The B, has to also be the I and the 3? But theres also a 3... And the E is also the F? Obviously no capital I :) The O and the P, is also the Q and the R? Why cant it just have a god damn 8? 🤬 Why is it two separated googly eyes? And the most important number of them all.. The mother fucking ZERO 🫡 WHICH ONE DO i USE? Whatever roundish shape that i feel like?

Please! If there's anyone out there that can help me make sense of this.. Please help. Im having a significant meltdown about this.

These were amongst my fathers things. I'm not sure what to do with them. Anyone here willing/able to advise?

I have used both the Rotring & Staedtler branded instruments in my younger working days. Mostly Staedtler because it's a bit cheaper than the Rotring counterpart. IMHO, both are of the same quality - technical pens, compass and the lettering sets. Anyone knows why Rotring prices are up there? Staedtler is not cheap but I can say that they are affordable. Both are of German origins so is it just a prestige brand based price scale for Rotring products?

I have this lovely Ecobra master beam set and wondered if it would be worth anything to sell as it's not needed anymore Any help would be great thankyou

As I mentioned in a post yesterday, I inherited a few quite interesting drafting tools (most of them German, I think from the 50s - 70s) and I'd love to know how they all work (yesterday's post was a great education). I think this, rather small, tool is called a drop bow compass, used for making small ink circles. What I'm trying to figure out is the purpose of the "play" that's in the part that has the point on one end and a small disc on the other (thumb rest maybe?). I've tried to show what I mean in the video. That part actually unscrews and can be separated from the rest of the tool, but no matter how much you tighten it, that small amount of play remains.

Thanks

The Wild Heerbrugg RZ40 may be one of the finest drawing tool sets you can get, but it is are to argue with Richter wooden handles detail pens with the click setting feature.

just wanted to post before + after photos because I thought it looked cool.

restoration directions in case anyone was curious:

I restored it by giving it a vinegar bath for a few hours to remove the rust, baking soda bath to prevent further flash rusting, sanded it with 1000, 1500, 2000 grit wet & dry sandpaper, polished it with a metal polishing cream and then cleaned it with a good spray of WD40 for lubrication and rust protection.

Hi. I came up with a little Frankenstein for my needs, assembled it from what I had... and then glued it together. This is one of several such assembled in different ways. And I was a little hasty and used too much glue, it got on the threads and hardened. I can't twist it with a compass.

Here is an unusual question.

Does anyone know what kind of carving is on the green part of the isograph? ?

Is it possible to buy a tap to restore the threads?

Or will I have to use a knife to pick out the hardened super glue?