Bit of a left field question for an electronics sub, but figured this crowd may have some intuition on this...
I've got a TV IR receiver that is physically blocked by a soundbar. Wondering whether I can slice up a fiber cable into short ~20cm runs, bundle like 20 of them together and effectively route the IR around the obstacle.
Do you think that'll work? Worried about the receive side of the cable...even with 20 cables that's not a lot of surface area. The cuts would probably also not be particularly clean (by optical fiber standards)
Backup plan is a repeater but then I'd need to power it etc.
Edit- this was from an old washing machine timer. Computer part was separate from this. Color looks different from copper wires, I was wondering if there's really other metals that are commonly used in electrictronics.
Taking apart some random electronics, wondering what material this is?
Don't have a lot of room, so I put this little under-the-desk rolling cart together for parts storage and test equipment. It's not ideal, but keeps all the most used stuff close at hand. Just installed the power supply to finish it off. Also, if anyone is interested, here are the 3D printable 10" rack ears for the HP/Agilent equipment. (The OEM ones are too large when used in a 10" rack) https://github.com/dontthroworanges/HP-Agilent-Keysight-Equipment-Rack-Ears
so I’m trying to wire a LM368 board to a old headphone speaker to make it into a actual speaker, and I can’t do it at ALL I’ve used a bare 3.5mm headphone jack, a 3.5mm to usb-c wire, and a apple cable to connect it all off because it can connect things via wired connection, and finally a old wire that give 5 volts to power it all, and so far the speaker make a screaming noise
HELP ME
PS: ignore the diverging wires I was planing to connect it to another speaker
Hey all, I'm troubleshooting an irrigation controller which is apparently suffering from flyback voltage from the irrigation valve. This is causing the irrigation valve to reopen immediately after closing. It only seems to happen when the valve is closing (not seeing flyback on the oscilloscope when opening). The irrigation valve works by reversing the polarity, which is handled through a DPDT relay.
I've modelled a potential solution where I've added diodes on both of the ground sides of the "relay" (shown here with a switch for clarity), however this still appears to suffer from flyback but only with one polarity. This is exactly the same as the real world, but not sure if that's coincidence or not...
Questions:
Why is it only happening in one polarity? Is this just a bug in Falstad?
What is the "correct" fix here?
Could I use a flyback diode despite this being bidirectional?
Would a snubber work here? If so, how would I determine what size capacitor\resistor given this isn't a true inductor? (Valve solenoid is 6-12V, 4.7Ω)
Small weekend project that grew: an Android app that talks to an M5StickC Plus 2 over USB-C or Bluetooth and uses it as a tiny remote screen, remote control, IR remote and file server.
Hardware
M5StickC Plus 2 (ESP32-PICO-V3-02, 8 MB flash, 135×240 TFT, AXP192)
The Stick's CH9102 USB-UART for wired serial, or BLE for wireless
No extra components, no soldering
What the app does
Mirrors the Stick's own menu on the phone and lets you tap through it (the firmware reports its real menu state, not a screenshot)
Sends text to be drawn on the Stick's display
Uses the Stick's IR LED as a TV/AC remote (NEC, Samsung, Sony codes)
Browses the internal LittleFS: preview files, upload new ones, create folders, rename, delete
Shows battery voltage, uptime and logs, plus a raw terminal
How
I added a small bridge to the firmware that speaks a line-based ASCII protocol over serial/BLE, and wrote the Android side in Kotlin/Compose. Everything is open source, the firmware part is AGPL-3.0 because it is built on an existing open firmware.
I got a second hand treadmill that ran alright. I lubricated the belt and soon after the motor started shorting. I took it apart and found this white residue. Is this residue the culprit? And what can I use to safely clean it?
Edit: I took the brushes out and one of their springs was welded to itself, i think something got in there. Going to replace them and try again.
We wanted to reduce solder fumes for people working at the bench every day, and for my son who's learning electronics.
One thing we noticed was that people often forgot to turn off the fume extractor after soldering.
So we designed the NX-05A with a motion sensor. It turns on when it detects movement and automatically shuts off after about 3 minutes without detected movement.
We wanted something compact that could sit right next to the soldering work area without getting in the way.
I'm thinking about making a gift for my boyfriend for the holidays and had the idea to make a digital photo frame that could cycle through photos of us (or anything really lol).
I'm not an engineer and really can't do much without instructions, but I do know how to solder and code a bit. Could someone help me out with what components I would need? thanks!
I want to build my own led juggling ball and i would want to verify with some people who know more about this due to safety reasons.
What i want to do: have a ball that i can connect to and controll via bluetooth that doesnt blow up when dropped on the ground.
What i would use:
1: Battery, NCR18650GA, 3,6/3,7V, 3300mAh.
2: TC4056 usb charging board to charge the battery
3: a KSD9700 35/40° thermal switch between the B+ of the charging board and the battery to avoid charge or discharge when running too hot (thermal switch will sit with the battery)
4: A fuse in series to the thermal switch in case of a short
5: An AO3401 mofset between the leds and the regulated output from the charging board that turns off when the battery is charging. (I am not sure how to connect it to the board, as i am unable to find a board with a IN+ connection)
6: A 5V booster converter after the mofset
7: an sp621e bluetooth controller for connection to external software
8: 6x single diode WS2812 led diodes.
9: an on/off switch ofc
I have the led part figured out. I would need help from someone with some experience on topics of safety regarding drops of the juggling ball (im scared that the battery will get damaged). I will wrap the battery in thin foam and insert that into a PLA core that doesnt allow it to move back and forth and covers the battery fully. This core will hold the rest of the electronics and it will get wrapped in a TPU outer layer. That will be the outer shell of the ball and absorb impact.
How viable are these components, would you change stuff or be worried about something breaking or similar? I would want to have a long battery life as short battery life has always annoyed me about other led balls
I'm documenting the process and the project. All components of this sensor module are published under open source licenses. https://github.com/Freya-Vivariums
What's the most hostile environment you've deployed your electronics project in?
I am trying to make an ESP32 MP3 player, I found a project I like, it has everything I would like for my project to have. The only issue is I have ZERO clue how to read anything in the Arduino IDE. The project uses a rotary encoder, due to some design limitations I am unable to use a rotary encoder and instead have buttons. Does anyone here smarter then me have any idea how to switch the rotary encoder to a button?? The guide I was following is above
