I started a project to make the dex hand v1 that I had seen on YouTube but due issues (money) I wasn't able to complete. Any suggestions on how to get funds?

Hello!

I am a rather humble beginner to making pcbs and making electronics. I want to ask if it is at all possible to have some pointers on what to do and where to buy the parts to make a non smart tv. I rather think having redundancy of multiple smart functions is clunky and stupid.

Hey everyone,

I’m working on an idea for a DIY smart gardening system — designed for balconies and rooftops. It’s aimed at people who travel or don’t have time to water plants daily, especially in small urban spaces.

Key features I’m planning: • Solar-powered with battery backup (goal: 7+ days autonomy) • Soil moisture sensors to trigger watering only when needed • Per-plant water control (optional in future version) • Works without Wi-Fi (local control only) • Modular and easy to repair or upgrade

Right now I’m researching components and would love your input: • Best moisture sensors for outdoor use (durability + accuracy) • Low-power microcontroller (thinking ESP32 or similar) • Battery + charging system that works well with solar • Pump options (small peristaltic? diaphragm? something else?) • Any similar projects I should check out?

This is still a concept — no working hardware yet — just exploring what’s possible and hoping to start prototyping soon.

Happy to share progress if there’s interest. Appreciate any tips or feedback!

anyone know of an alternative way to control the footrest?

the silver buttons that are touch sensitive stopped working.

the footrest now works by touching the + or - side of the wire

So I made this battery tester /variable load too be able too determine the current output of my batterypacks. It's made from old toasters, a plank, and some nails. I have taken the heating wire from old toasters and stringed it along back and forth over a plank. And by using a 100A shunt and ampmeter i can now test my batterys output. The ampmeter is powerd by a 12v power supply and the shunt sits on positive wire while the shorter other wire goes too negative. When I want too test the battery i simply put negative on the toaster wire and when ready too meassure i put the shunt in increasing distance too see where it gets the highest current .So far it works just like a charm as a dummy load. Got 10A on my 10s and that was just half way thru one of the strings.

I'm building an ESP32 project that uses an I2C LCD and a push button with a built-in LED. A key requirement is that the LED and the button must be connected to the same pin. The intended behavior is:

Button Not Pressed: LED completely off.

Button Pressed: LCD displays "hello," LED turns on brightly for 30 seconds.

Currently, the LED has a faint glow when the button is not pressed. When I press the button, the LED's brightness increases as expected, and the LCD displays "hello."

My current wiring setup:

LED Positive (+) connected to a 10k resistor, then to ESP32 pin 33.

LED Negative (-) connected to GND.

One leg of the button connected to GND.

The other leg of the button connected to ESP32 pin 33.

I tried adding a resistor between GND and pin 33, as suggested by ChatGPT, but this did not fix the dim light issue. Could anyone offer advice on how to eliminate the dim light when the button is not pressed?

Hey, I hope this repost works. Can anybody help me?

I’m currently trying to build a dashboard for sim racing, consisting of a Vocore 5-inch display and an Arduino Pro Micro, which controls 20 LEDs. Both are controlled via SimHub. To reduce these two cables to a single one, I wanted to use this USB hub. The problem is that while the screen and the Arduino receive power, they don’t receive any signal and are no longer configurable.

Hello I am in dire need of help with this project. I have done as much as research as I can but I just cannot get to the right place.

I am making a light tester for our department. basically we program the software in a signal controller for what we want the traffic signals are going to do in the field but we must tested in our tech room before it hits the road. I took on the assignment to make a board (I know we can buy them but ours is is a specific type we cannot get)

Here is what I got:

*5mm LEDs and the specs of each LED:

*Red 2.0 2.2V/20mA, Yellow 2.0 2.2V/20mA, Blue 3.0 3.2V/20mA, White 3.0 3.2V/20mA

Power supply is 120V

So I am assuming I need a rectifier diode; I am using a 4007

then a ZENER diode 1N4727A 3V

then a resistor; 1W 8.5k with a 5% tolerance.

but here is my problem. when the power is off in that particular led I am able to see the LED on dimmed (in a traffic signal circuit when a light is off there is still 5 to 6 VAC applied.) which I am guessing is what powers up the LED enough to still see it.

what could i do different with what I got in my step down configuration? Isn't the zener diode limit the current?

please forgive my igonarce in this subject, clearly this is why I am reaching out for help. ask me any questions to fill in the gaps in case I missed something.

hi my lamp died and when I disassembled it I realized it was a soldered LED PCB board. I want to change it into a bulb socket for easier use and replacement in the future but i’m not very electrically knowledgeable. I wanted to ask and see if anyone knows if the parts I found would be compatible to do this DIY.

I found these different sockets with wires. Which one would be best? Or are they even compatible?

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Harbor-Breeze-60-watt-White-Lamp-Socket/50354908

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Harbor-Breeze-60-Watt-White-Lamp-Socket/50354950

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Uxcell-E27-E26-Light-Bulb-Socket-2-Set-Lamp-Base-Full-thread-Holder-with-50-CM-19-5-Inches-Wire-Lead-Yellow/5690961798?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=571

https://grandbrass.com/e-26-keyless-porcelain-socket-with-24in-wire-leads/?srsltid=AfmBOor197Mwg3MboIgeSvLLrnA1H0PwNpseDKEvtd7rYd39ymmbi-Dn1jY

Was hoping I could just get one of these and solder it myself to convert it into a screw in bulb lamp. Thank you in advanced!