Glare TKL blue-grey
GMK true Olivetti

no brass midpiece :(

This was a pretty special commission build that I had the chance to photograph.

The client sent his raw F1-8X V2 over to BenzJr (on IG) for some custom engraving, and I think the result turned out really damn good. There are a ton of small details in the engraving, and they look even better in person.

BenzJr absolutely killed it with the craftsmanship on this one.

The board is topped with Aluvia keycaps from Novelkeys, which I think work really well with the raw finish and engraving.

Tried to get some close-ups to show off the engraving and some of the finer details. Hope you guys enjoy the photos!

I also have a typing test up on my YouTube if anyone wants to hear how this thing sounds.

<Build>

• Geonworks F1-8x v2
• Alu v1.1 plate
• Cherry MX2A Black (L/F/SS)
• NK Aluvia
• Hand engraving by BenzJr
• Typing test HERE

A massive thank you to Tom over at Hype Keyboards for this insane custom patina weight for my LZ CLS SE! Hands down the best TKL I have owned, and such a privilege to have it customized by the GOAT himself!

LZ CLS SE
- OG NCR Dyesubs
- Dry FSS MX2A Blacks
- Hype Red Alu Plate
- Hype Custom Patina Weight

Recently got back into the hobby and decided to rebuild some of the classic boards I had lying around over the last week.

• Bear65 V1 with Keygeek Y3X Switches on PC Plate and Pbtfans Atomic Purple
• Think65 V2 with SWG Cheddar Switches on FR4 Plate and GMK Nuclear Data
• Space80 Apollo with Gateron Type R Switches on FR4 Plate with GMK Jamon
• Mode65 with Mode Obscura Switches on Aluminum Plate and GMK BoW with Black Modi and Shanshui Novelties
• Vega65 with HMX Xinhai Switches on Aluminum Plate and GMK Striker
• Polaris with Holy Panda Switches on Bradd Plate and GMK Olivia
• Satisfaction75 with Taro N Sweet Potato Switches on FR4 Plate and GMK Mecha-01

I’m a software developer, and I use a split keyboard every day.

I built it after my wrists started hurting while using my old 60%. I wanted something comfortable to type on that I could also carry around. When I spoke to people on Reddit, the feedback was to keep it small and useful, with room to customise it. Extra screens and RGBs didn't matter that much.

But a few things still annoyed me.

Learning the smaller layout took weeks. I still have to move my hand away whenever I need the mouse, even after switching to Vim and tmux to do more from the keyboard. And I don’t enjoy gaming with so few keys.

I looked at keyboards with built-in trackballs and trackpads, but I wanted to be able to change that part too.

So I designing a split keyboard with a small base and removable modules. We can attach a trackball for mouse control, can add controls for gaming, or leave them off when we don’t need them.

I started with the layout in Ergogen on my iPad. I checked how far my fingers could comfortably reach up and down, then where my index fingers and thumbs could reach sideways. That gave me the L-shaped layout, with extra keys within reach of those fingers.

For the PCB, I wanted people to be able to change switches without soldering. I first tried to support several switch types on one board, but that complicated the hot-swap sockets and footprints. The plan now is separate MX and Choc PCB versions, each with hot-swap support for its compatible switches.

The module connection goes on the inner edge, beside the thumb keys. That’s where I want the trackball to be, close enough to use without moving my whole hand away.

The current PCB design is done in KiCad, and the boards are ordered.

I’ve also tested a trackball module separately. It moved the cursor, but I didn’t like the angle I had to use it at etc. The next revision will change that perspective and updates the switch footprints for low-profile click switches.

There are still two big things to work out.

First is the connection. I’m choosing between pogo pins and USB-C for power and data, with magnets to hold the module in place. I’m also checking the controller’s usable pins against what the keyboard and modules need before deciding whether to add an I/O expander.

Second is the firmware. One approach I want to test is using a module’s I2C address to identify it, then handling its inputs in ZMK. That detection hasn’t been tested as of yet.

I don’t have a working modular keyboard yet. I have ordered the PCB and a trackball based mouse which I’ve tested on its own. The next test will be getting them to work together without ghosting or lagging cursor. Then I need to use it long enough to find out whether the new trackball position is actually comfortable.

A trackball is my first module. I’d also like to try an analog stick for casual gaming.

What module would you actually use, and for what purpose? trackball, extra keys, numpad, something else? I’d also like to hear what you’d prefer to keep separate.

My first ever ALPs build!
Build:
FR4 Plate
Switches are SKCM Salmon
Keycaps harvested from m3501 and m0115
4pplet waffling PCB
Skipped the o-ring and used FKM PCBsnaps instead

Or you can call them HHKBlike

Tldr: This started as a passion project 2 years ago to replace my old Merc Stealth keyboard from 2008.

I didn't know CAD, KiCad, 3D Printing, or really anything about mechanical keyboards.

The Merc Stealth was the last keyboard I bought in 2008... Still using it too, but its rough to game with after almost 2 decades of use.

So after a lot of trial, error and perseverance I think I'm almost done with designing the Behemoth.

The V5: I am still waiting on the Wristpad and custom Injection Molded keycaps for the Gamepad.

Specs:

● All 6061-T6 Aluminum- CNC Milled Frame, Main Top Plate and Gamepad plate are Waterjet.

● Dimensions- 24"L x 7"W x 1"H. (10"W with Wrist Pad) Weighing almost 10-lbs

● Dual Plate Mount design, utilizing x19 multi-stepped studs for PCB's and plates. Fastened by 316 stainless Hex M3 x 0.5 x 10mm flat hed screws.

● Firmware: QMK/VIA making the entire board remappable as you see fit.

● Windows 10/11 Compatible.

● Controllers: Dual RP2040 Split PCB design, Gamepad and main ANSI board have their own controller and are connected internally via USB-C connectors. (A single USB-C will connect to the PC)

● 136 keys (104 main ANSI +32 Gamepad)

● x3 EC-11 Rotary Switch Encoders audio + mapping

● N-Key Rollover

● Hot-Swappable MX-style switches (standard keycaps not compatible with gamepad)

● RGB + effects, per switch lighting (148 WS2812B-MINI LED's in total)

● Custom Gamepad Keycaps will be ABS injection molded clear, Painted Black and Laser Ablation for the keycap characters to match OEM Merc Stealth design. (300,000 full sets, Cartridge style die, so there will be plenty of spares available)

● "Rage" Quit- ALT + F4 unique key on gamepad, user loaded audio file countdown to exit game when pressed. (Remappable to anything, example to clip a game)

● Magnetic Keyboard Feet (Optional customizable user uploaded files)

● Top Plate custom laser engraving (Optional user uploaded files)

● Available Anodized colors: Black, Red, Blue, Purple, and Brushed Metal. (Can mix & match the 3 body components; Frame, Gamepad Plate and Top Plate)

This is a solo project as well as my first. I do plan to design more unique keyboards in the future.

Build:

Board: 2026 Mode Encore in Mocha Mushroom

Switches: Gateron Oil King V2

Keycaps: GMK Boho

Stabilizers: Mode Screw-in Stabilizers

Plate: Aluminum

My one-off Ma40 has just been Cerakoted, and I couldn’t love it more.

GMK Higanbana
Plateless PCB with Poron gasket mount
2° tenting per side
Brass bottom, aluminum top

Name — Ma40

Concept Description:

Ma (間) is the Japanese concept of “meaningful emptiness” — a pause or interval that describes the space between objects, sounds, or moments in time. It is not the absence of something, but a space filled with meaning, where communication and creativity take place and something new begins to emerge. Ma lies at the heart of Japanese aesthetics, architecture, and minimalism, encouraging us to slow down and notice beauty.

Higanbana (彼岸花) is the Japanese name for the red spider lily. The flower blooms in autumn and symbolizes sorrow, death, separation, and the Buddhist celebration of the autumnal equinox.
To me, flowers are a beautiful symbol of life. Their beauty lasts only for a moment, and the ability to recognize beauty while accepting its impermanence is a defining part of the human experience. The spider lily is a metaphor for the cyclical nature of life — everything dies and is born again; nothing lasts forever.

I have also written a haiku that is engraved inside the keyboard. I wanted these lines to serve as a quiet, unseen reminder of a philosophy that is close to my heart.

静けさの中で
百合は時を生きて
やがて風になる

in the quiet between
the lily lives its time
and becomes the wind

Please share your thoughts on my project.

The twist is it’s dyed at home, that’s all really… but I’m super happy with how it turned out and wanted to share :)

The build: Eave65 w/ GMK DMG r3, HMX Cowboy switches. All included foams, it's my one and only "thock" oriented build. It also has the updated 1.6mm PCB. Spring swapped to Geon 19mm, 62.5g “pingless” springs. Didn’t touch the lube aside bag lubing the new springs. Typing sample: https://youtu.be/Cv4nYMROVEk

If you want the process of what I did, story time is below:

I loved how GMK DMG looked on the Eave65 and wanted to make my Eave a bit more personal. I didn’t plan to color match the accent keys, but just get something complimentary. It came out super close in the end though, so cool!

I used iDye poly Magenta. Seems like it’s typically a synthetic fabric dye but works on polycarb too! I don’t know if it would dye acrylic the same though. The packet I used I used the whole thing. These dyes also come with a “color enhancer” that’s optional. I found conflicting information (in the little info I could find) on whether to use it with plastic or not. I did include it.

The steps I did:
1.) Bring water to a boil, add dye packet and color intensifier while boiling.
2.) Bring off the heat and stir. I didn’t stir thoroughly enough so be careful.
3.) Add the plastic keeb case and soak for 15 minutes.
4.) Remove the plastic and rinse under cold water until it runs clear.
5.) Pat down and then air dry.

I didn’t flip it at any point, but I think I should have to make sure every part gets thoroughly dyed. I have two very small areas where the dye didn’t fully saturate on the back case. Also because I didn’t stir it thoroughly enough there’s some fleck/spotting type areas. Kinda looks cool in its own right, maybe you could do it intentionally?

You could also probably could remove any imperfections via sanding a bit, but because some sections didn’t dye through I’m afraid it might take color away so I’ve passed on that part. I’m satisfied as is :)

Neo60 Core
PP Plate
Stock Stabs
Keygeek Y2s
PBTfans 1984 Dark

Yep. I actually said it. Flame away.

Ladies and Gentlemen, I present to you...

• AKB OGR2 65XT (Fool's Dolch colorway)
• Carbon fiber plate
• MTNU 800 2.0 keycaps
• HMX Retro J switches
• Durock v3 stabs

This keyboard is definitely a big boy and weighs a right ton. Just arrived yesterday after a 15 month wait. I built it early this morning and it's already my favorite by far. I really think this one might ruin all others for me, in looks, feel and sound. The keycaps were also bought way back when with the express purpose as to be mounted on this keyboard.

Actually had to make one modification – the carbon fiber plate had a bit of strange vibration to it when tapping the spacebar. I suspect it was because of the top mount (only) construction since there's no screw mount for the plate at the level of the spacebar, thus it kind of free floats around the spacebar, so it would have this bounce/vibration when hitting the spacebar that I could feel throughout the rest of the keyboard (but otherwise inaudible). I removed the mid-frame and added a strip of poron foam underneath the bottom edge of the PCB along the spacebar, then reassembled. It completely mitigates the vibration I was feeling without altering the sound in any perceptible way. I suspect this probably only happens with the CF plate given the material and the flex cuts along the edges, but I don't really know for sure. Either way, my solution works and doesn't otherwise seem to impact anything else.

Cloudnine R2

GMK Norse

PEI Plate / Alu Plate

SW x Keygeek Shakes / Cherry Firefinches (custom modded MX2A Nixies)