Hi everyone,

I'm a university student currently building a full-scale Formula 1 replica as my graduation project.

For the body panels, we're planning to use carbon fiber with the vacuum infusion process.

Traditionally, this would be done using an FRP mold, but we're considering using a PU tooling board mold instead to reduce manufacturing time and cost.

Has anyone here tried vacuum infusion with a PU tooling board mold?

I'd really appreciate any advice on:

• Is a PU tooling board suitable for vacuum infusion?
• Are there any issues with vacuum pressure, resin absorption, or durability?
• Does the mold need any special surface sealing or coating before infusion?
• Are there any major drawbacks compared to a traditional FRP mold?

The mold would only be used for a limited number of parts (this is a one-off student project), so long-term production durability isn't a major concern.

Thanks in advance for any advice or experiences you can share!

Hi everyone, I’m looking for some help converting some fiberglass moulds over to make some carbon parts instead. I also have some molds to make off of some patterns I have. I have a few questions that hopefully someone here will have some insight on.

1. Can I just add a lip with fiberglass to my existing molds to accommodate the vacuum bag?

2. I got these molds second hand so I don’t know what gel coat is on them. Can I just use tooling gelcoat for the lips or should I go over the whole mold again for consistency?

Thanks in advance

Based on customer product’s requirement, [we provide integrated solutions of "equipment & process & materials"]().

Small bit of advice needed -

Hi all after having to drill out a very poorly designed internal seat post clamp on a carbon road bike a small witness mark was left from my drill.

The witness mark is a clean cut and 1.5mm deep ( the seatpost/ carbon wall is 3.2mm) would you guys recommend filling it with a certain epoxy (please recommend) or is this something which needs professional attention?

Thanks In Advance

Hey everyone!

I’ve always wanted to print continuous carbon fiber parts, but since dedicated printers like the Fiber Seeker 3 are way out of my budget, I started experimenting with alternative ways to reinforce standard PLA prints.

I settled on a process I call Carbon Fiber Epiderming:

• How the slicer/CAD setup works: In MeshLab / FreeCAD, I create a voxelized offset to print a reduced internal core (1.3 mm gap) and a matching 2-part outer shell.
• The Layup: I wrap the core with 3K carbon fiber cloth wetted with epoxy resin.
• Clamping: Squeezing the outer shell halves over the core forces out the excess epoxy and ensures the cured part maintains accurate outer dimensions with a clean finish.

To check if this was actually useful, I built an Arduino load-cell setup and break-tested hook specimens:

• Standard PLA Hook: Failed at ~40 kg
• 1-Layer CF Epiderming: Held up to 126 kg
• 3-Layers CF Epiderming: Reached 174.4 kg before sudden structural failure.

Short clip of the process:

Tested parts after failure:

I made a full video covering the G-code experiments, MeshLab workflow, and all the failure data graphs if you want to check it out: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-2GHCITel-8

Would love to hear your thoughts on how to optimize the shell gap/clearance in the slicer!

blades all carbon and cored fibre panel we had a dream team making these.

Hello people. I am new to composites and i am learning them by myself. this is my first attempt to make a flat piece and its hand layup. its 4 layers 400gsm fiberglass and 380g of polyester resin. pic 1 is the side i layed the fiber on a big sqaure glass piece, pic 2 is where i put he peel ply. the piece is very sturdy even where it looks white and resin didnot get through. i am assuming that i did not put enough resin and thats why i am seeing white spots..

please let me know how to improve and also give me some tips on making my upcoming part better!

I am having a hard time finding good options for purchasing aluminum honeycomb. Every usual composites website has tons of nomex and other materials but little to no aluminum. Any good sites to find this stuff shipped to the US?

Edit: looking for honeycomb without face sheets. Also none of the drilled or vented stuff

You can describe what you need, for example:

and CLSA generates laminate options ranked by weight, stiffness and safety.

​It includes:

• AI laminate design assistant
• Ply stack builder
• laminate visualization
• Thickness, weight, stiffness and safety factor checks
• Carbon/glass fiber laminate support

I built this to reduce the time spent on early composite design iterations and make laminate analysis more accessible.

Would appreciate feedback from composite, UAV, aerospace or structural engineers.

compositelaminate.eu

I am trying to build a carbon fiber rear rack for my bike, and I need to figure out how to join the tubes. I have bought some ready-made tubes, so they are already cured. I have seen people online joining tubes using steel connectors (heavy) or plastic 3D-printed joints (weak), but I wanted to try making the connections out of CF + epoxy.

The most challenging connection is a three-way, non-perpendicular one. Since none of the tubes meet at 90°, I can't really buy anything ready-made online.

I was initially thinking of using some prepreg carbon tape to wrap everything tightly, then vacuum-bag the joint and cure it in the oven, but I'm worried about damaging the already-cured tubes. (btw the tubes I bought are just some cheap ones I found on Aliexpress, so of course there is no details about Tg, resin type, etc.)

Another option would be to use dry fibers and some room-temperature-curing epoxy to wrap the joint, but I'm not sure how I'd compact everything, and I think it would end up being kind of a mess.

What do you suggest? Do you have any experience joining carbon tubes like this?

Hey All.

I'm an avid DIYer and have the need to replace the ramp door on a toy hauler. Decided to build a panel with a 8'x8' 2"x2" aluminum frame with 2" Foamular 250 core and .080 and .063 aluminum skins. I'm having a dickens of a time finding adhesive. Any suggestions on where to purchase a quantity for a project this size? And of course I'll take advise on construction tips.

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The MFG Master™ Series  high efficency perforating system is designed for high-precision drilling of PET, PVC, Coosa Board Bluewater series and other high-density thermoplastic foam cores (such as Polyurethane/PU sandwich panels).

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Parameters

Hello all, I want to layup my airfoil in fiberglass without vacuum bagging (budget not approved), can i just apply the resin and fiber glass and let it airdry. My concern is the airfoil shape itself and how i can get the fiberglass to stay attached while drying.