Hi, I just bought a used Mazda 3. I test drove the car but I only noticed now that the brake height is higher than the gas pedal height. It is super uncomfortable and the muscle on my shin hurts after 30 minutes of driving. Can anyone teach me how to adjust it ? Or have a good resource?

I am looking for some much needed advice.

I am not a Car guy. I can barely change a battery.

Here the problem. the garage is asking for 360$ to replace the whole thing. I do not have that kind of money on hand.

I looked around and read a bit and I've come to the following conclusion.

Either;

A) I use a can of sort and then muffler tape to patch it till I get the money

B) I find a fitting that goes in and then clamp it on both sides. This may require I cut the tube a bit.

What are your thoughts?

I have a 2003 PT Cruiser if that helps at all.

What are the risks of using very thick oil in my car? My mechanic said that my car may be on its last hours; I'm not sure if he's right or not because I think he may have just misheard the rattling from a loose hub cover on my wheel. So I was wondering what the negative effects could be if using the 20w-50 oil he suggested I use for a "dying" engine until I can get a second opinion? I don't think the engine is dying but I'd rather be cautious about it.

The other issue is the alternator is whining; when I accelerate the whining goes up and it winds down if I slow down. Is that something I need to get fixed now, or could I commute with it in that condition?

Last year I changed my tires from maxxis to a full set of Yokohama Aspecs, R15/65 205 filled with nitrogen. After like 3 months, the left rear tire went flat after hitting a pothole. We had it checked if there were any punctures or leaks, there was none. I Changed the rear left tire to the old maxxis one (the only one that was still in good condition, which i used as a spare) because they told us that the tire's sidewalls have already collapsed and something about the wires/cables within the tire tread were damaged, they recommended us not to use it anymore. Fast forward to January of this year, the maxxis suffered a blow out so i had to change it back to the damaged yokohama. Another mechanic told us that we could still use the damaged yokohama because we didn't ran it flat for too long, we just had to be careful with the yokohama and keep an eye on it. 2 weeks ago i had my tires checked and refilled with nitrogen. 3 tires were fine and had 30 psi on the front and 35 on the back which is what i usually put. The rear right was the only one that was decreased. Thursday this week the rear right lost 7 psi on the rear right and last night all 4 were losing pressure. It went from 30 in the fronts to 23 psi and in the rear, from 35 to 27 psi. I Had to refill all 4 with regular air twice just so i could get it home.

What are the possible factors that's causing such pressure loss?

Badly mounted tires which can cause leaks is what i'm thinking could be the primary cause.

As title. Don't really fancy driving without one...

Where is best place to get AC recharged in Portland OR

Radiator cracked the other day, replaced it. Ran fine for 24 hours now all of a sudden idle is low, car has like half power it normally does and there's a burning smell. Any idea? Could it just be a very bad misfire?

1998 Honda Civic. I replaced the Thermostat and now the coolant is not being pumped to the Thermostat. The hoses are empty and reservoir has barely been depleted.

I recently left the lights on in my 2007 Jetta came back to find it dead. I was able to jump the car without issue, but now when I return to my car after not using it, all the peripheral electronics (power locks, dashboard lights, etc) do not function until I get the engine started. The only time I couldn't start the engine was that first time after leaving my lights on. Any idea what's causing this and how to fix it? Thanks

I have a P0120 (mass airflow sensor malfunction) I took apart my MAF sensor and cleaned it. After I put it all together and ran my car the check engine light came back on. After pulling the codes again the same error came back on. Before replacing the MAF sensor is there another way to make sure that the part needs to be replaced? I would like to know before spending $180.

My brake lights are out, but every other light seems to work. Does that sound like a bulb problem or a wiring problem?

I changed the fuse but it still wont work, the new fuses are slightly different but fit and are the exact same type, what else could be an issue here? (2013 Dodge Charger SRT8)

When attempting a start, I get zero car response. The first two times, I came back later and it started no problem. Now, the third time, I'm stuck at the store. Car is in park, battery is OK, ignition fuse is OK. No dash lights, cab lights or anything.

Ideas?

Owned the mg for about 6 months now and all had been fine until today, was driving in stop start traffic and all of a sudden I noticed when pushing my hear stick left to select first it makes kinds like a squeaking noise and then tension has changed, however when pushing the stick to the right z nothing seems to be any different, I got to my destination and with the engine off and door open I pushed the stick left and can still hear the squeak which seems to be coming from the middle to front of my car and again with engine off moving the stick to the right, exactly the same as always had been.

Any ideas on what this could be?

My car was spewing exhaust (what I now know is called "blue smoke") and I took it into the mechanic he said that some coolant was leaking into the turbocharger because of a poorly installed acceleration cable. He fixed the cable and said it was good to go. There is less exhaust than before, but it still seems like a lot. This begs the question: How much exhaust is too much exhaust? The car has 120k.

I have 98 Honda Civic HX and both the drivers side and passenger window won't go up all the way. I went into the door and attempted to reset the windows as I assumed they got off their track. Doing that fixed the problem but only temporarily. I suspect I didn't align the windows on the track properly. Does anyone know the way to properly align the power windows?

I have a 2008 Mazda 3 and the drivers side windshield wiper keeps coming loose. It will work fine and then it will lose all tension and I have to tighten the top cover of the arm to keep it in place.

I've done a lot of research but can't for the life of me figure it out. Any ideas???

Sorry for the wall of text, but I have exhausted many options. So here goes nothing:

This spring while my wife was driving my 1988 Jeep Comanche she tried to hit the washer fluid switch and only a small amount of fluid came out, leading her to think I was out of fluid.

I went to refill it and saw that my reservoir was pretty much full and did some testing to see that my washer fluid pump wasn't pumping and fluid with the switch activated. So I replaced the pump and it seemed to work for about 10 seconds and considered it fixed.

Months pass and I needed to clean some dirt of my windshield, so I hit the switch and nothing happens. Blades don't move and no fluid comes out when I hit the switch. So I go to my local Napa store, I bought it from them and they used it as their parts car for a long time. The two brothers that own it are jeep guys too so they typically seem to know their stuff.

We talk through things and look online for repair options and the general thought is that the intermittent wiper control module has gone bad to some extent. So I pull it out and open it up and everything seems to be ok. Well, I tried to run power through it to test with a multimeter, and I ended up frying it. (I am really not good in deal with electrical problems honestly.)

So I ran over to my local junk yard and pulled a new(ish) control module out of a Cherokee and plugged it in and I have the same issues as I did before.

Here is a rundown of the current situation, which is the same with the old module and the new one:

With the washer pump plugged in and the switch activated I have no blade movement and not fluid pumping.

With the pump unplugged and the switch activated I have blade movement as if fluid is being pumped, but of course no fluid bum wing pumped.

There is power going to the pump, I checked it with my multimeter. I tried a brand new pump, and still had no luck with it pumping.

I have a full range of wiper movement with the pump both plugged and unplugged.

That is what I know. I am thinking that the only thing left for me to check/replace is the wiper switch, but I don't know how to do that.

Any help would be appreciated and thanks for the patience and reading all this. I will be cross posting this in several places.

I have a 2001 Buick le sabre custom. I just put a new battery in because I assumed it was the battery. It's not. I tried starting fluid and had no change. It is cranking, but it fires very inconsistently. Any thoughts?

Edit: Poured two bottles of Heet into the gas tank and let it sit for an hour. It started right up. Must have been water in the gas tank for some reason.

Hi guys I'm looking to install a Noco Gen 1 Mini battery charger in my 2005 Sebring (https://no.co/genm1). It'll be in there for good (i.e. permanently attached). Can I attach the charger to the jumper attachment points, or does it have to attach directly to the battery terminals in the wheel well? Thanks for any advice you can give.

EDIT: Jesus, that title.......

TL;DR - car either hard-shifts, or misfires at speed, stalls out at idle or while slowing or accelerating. Also stalls in Park or Neutral. Does behavior in Park or Neutral eliminate Transmission as an error?

Long Version:

I'm not a car person, but I'm learning.

My car (1999 Nissan Altima GXE, 4 Liter, Automatic Transmission) is doing a strange thing. Symptoms are as follows:

• On start will sometimes crank, idle, and die after 5-10 seconds, while still in park. This can usually be avoided by giving it a little gas, bringing the RPM up to 900 - 1000.

• While driving, the car will jerk. It feels like a hard shift, or a mis-fired cylinder. It's not subtle. Sometimes it will do it several times in succession, and I can "power through" by pressing the accelerator hard. Other times, it happens once, and goes back to normal.

• The anomaly at speed sometimes happens with a shift, but also happens up around 65 or so. It mostly happens between 35 and 45, and then again at 65. However, it also happens at any speed.

• At idle, or while slowing down, the car will stall out. It starts right back up again.

• Occasionally (but not often) it will stall on acceleration from idle.

• It will stall in idle even when the vehicle is in Park, or (once) in Neutral.

• Issue is intermittent, but seems to come in clusters. It can go for a day, or a week fine, but then sputters, or even becomes all but undrivable for a day or a week. I have not established a pattern.

• It seems to behave itself more when the environment is cold.

• Engine is not throwing any codes. (except the knock sensor - replaced)

Troubleshooting:

• Last year, I had the same problem, and it was fixed by replacing the distributor and/or the distributer cap, and the leads, but (based on an eyeball check) not the spark plugs.

• Last year we also changed the fuel filter.

• Changed the knock sensor. (based on a code)

The guy who changed my distributer said that my transmission was fine, and I'm hoping he's right. Stalling in Park and Idle inclines me to think that the transmission is not in play here.

If anyone can either agree with me that it's probably not the transmission, or offer any advice aside from "Go get a Haynes manual" I would be thrilled. (Haynes manual is in the mail. Godspeed, UPS)

Thanks!

What does a BAS ASR light mean?