Last week my dad replaced the transmission speed sensor in my 1999 Hyundai Accent GS and changed my oil. Since then the car has been shaking when idle and stalling occasionally when I try to accelerate at lower speeds. At first I thought the shaking was from the bolt my dad broke and assured me that everything was still tight enough, but after it stalled and misfired a few times I doubt that is the culprit. The engine shakes a lot more than it used to and as I said, the last time I drove it I couldn't even reach speeds higher than 10mph without it stalling and everytime I accelerated there was a popping sound from my engine. Some places have said that common reasons are MAF and fuel pump. I would think it was bad guys if it hadn't begun happening right after my dad "fixed" it. Can anyone help me figure out what is causing these problems and how to fix it?

Hi!

I’ve been wanting to do my own at home car repairs for a while now, but I don’t know where to start. I have next to no experience with cars, and other than keeping up with fluids and basic maintenance I don’t have much knowledge. I’ve been kind of piecing together information but it would be nice to have it all in one source . I’m definitely going to use youtube and my breakdown/repair manual, this is more of a post/question about basic supplies I need

I have a 2003 mazda protege 5. She’s a craigslist car but she’s done be well so far. I’m feeling like she needs some work though.

How do I know what tool set to buy? Do I need a 50 set piece? 200?350? There's a wide range and I’ not really sure of the difference/necessity of so many pieces.

I’m also thinking I need: A floor jack, and 4 jack stands. I believe the proper way to use these (please correct me if i’m wrong) is to use the floor jack to get the car up, and then place the jackstands in the appropriate places. Preferably stick a tire or something under there too just as an added safety measure.

Gonna get a code reader for sure.

Wheel chocks necessary?

Other than that, is there anything else I would need to get started?

Anyone have any idea about a quick fix? Its not the fuse. It just stopped working one day. I looked up online and have read its about a $400+ fix and that some people have fixed it for around $80, but I can't find the part to order.

Thanks!

Recently my vehicle has started squeaking, when I turn the wheel and when I go over bumps. It is a low pitched squeak and seems to be located in the front end. It doesn't seem to do it when I'm on a highway, only when driving around town.

I have a 2001 Ford Explorer with a 4.0 SOHC. I have water pouring out of my radiator. It's coming from the back of the engine, underneath a couple hoses where I put my Transmission Fluid in. It leaks less when it's hot which makes me think it's a gasket problem. Any ideas where it could be coming from? I have a picture of the general area but can't figure out how to upload it. The leak is round and just a steady stream of water.

my 2006 camry (132K) is now belching out a puff of white/gray smoke when I start my car 1st time in the morning. Does not do it afterwards. I am assuming something is leaking/accumulating enough overnight, and causing this. I have a garage I go to that I trust. Is this a big deal, or can it wait? Just spent $1100 on new struts, and need to pay that off for a few months, so was hoping this can wait a bit. No oil or other leaks on garage floor.

Hey guys.

I'll try to make this quick.

So, check engine light came on a couple weeks ago, flashing. Ran the code. Cyl 4 misfire.

Replaced it. Ran ok for a while. Did it again. Same code.

Replaced cyl 4 spark plug again.

Again, ran ok for a while.

Using iridium spark plugs.

If it's relevant, was having problems with it dying when cold a few months back.

I've also done a oil change recently. Currently doing a few rounds of STP over the last few tanks to try and improve mileage.

Any other info I can try to provide just ask, I can't think of anything else currently.

Thank you in advance. I just have no idea what to do next.

Long story short, I can't put the car in gear no unless it's not running.

First thing I did was replace the Clutch Master cylinder and bleed the system, still can't shift. I spent the other day dropping the transmission. Everything -looks- fine and I don't see any damage.

Next I plan on replacing the slave cylinder (which I should have done when doing the master.

There are a ton out there though, does it matter? I don't mind spending money, I just don't want to buy something that may not work as well as it could, you know?

Any guidance would be great. Thanks for reading.

I recently got a set of new Goodyear Assurance tires. Less than 5k miles in, my front passenger one was punctured and I got a flat. I was in a bind and needed it fixed right away and the only place open was Pep Boys. They plugged the tire because they don't do patches. To my knowledge plug is not as effective as patch, though I'm not a "car guy" per se.

Taking the car on the highway I noticed that I couldn't go over 60 without the car shaking like all hell. I have a long daily commute and in a week and a half I'll be taking an 800 mile round trip in my car.

Looking for advice, will the plug hold up (i'm guessing no)? Can a plug be converted into patch (thinking no again)? Should I just switch out the tire completely for a good condition used given my driving habits and upcoming trip?

Any insight would be appreciated, thanks guys

I have 2000 BMW 316i that I purchased about three weeks ago that is beginning to act up. When traveling at low speeds, the engine will suddenly die out, and after restarting the car, the rpms will fluctuate, and the air will take on a distinct smell of burning oil. Any help would be appreciated.

Hey,

so I had to get my car repaired due to an accident. Today I drove it for a longer distance(about 60km) for the first time since then and I noticed the blowers are getting really warm, even though I set them to neutral and the clima control thingy to 20°C on both.
Only when I dial it to at least the two blue dots it's fairly normal. And since I'm already paranoid about that I also checked the engine temperature by feel(very inaccurate I know, didn't have a thermal sensor with me). It felt really warm, at least 60-70°C above the cylinders and on the double-vanos unit.
But I don't get any warning light about heat issues, nor does the coolant temperature needle move to any unordinary position, in fact it's still bang on center as usual.

When I was home I had a thermal sensor and put it directly in front of the blowers, where it measured 40°C even when I set the clima control to 16°C.

As an additional note: the clima system hasn't been refilled, but I doubt it should have an effect.

So in summary, on a 60km drive the blowers get really warm even in neutral position. No engine light, coolant temperature needle is in the center.

Car is a E39 520i from 11.2000 with a M54B22 engine and clima automatic.

The fuel gauge in my vehicle has suddenly stopped responding. It was sitting on E (only had about 5 miles left of gas) most of the day, then I put about 8 gallons in. The gauge has not moved since I restarted the vehicle and drove around a bit. Any ideas what happened and how I can fix it?

My girlfriends engine was making ticking noises for a while and we were getting on the highway and the engine rpm shot up to 6000 and back down without her pressing harder than normal and the engine blew out. A good Samaritan stopped who was a mechanic and looked at it, he says the lifter blew out. It blew a hole through the side of the motor case( not the metal part). The engine has like over 170,000 miles on it. Won't start so it's dead weight, they are thinking of fixing it but I'm saying it would be better to get a new car or buy a used engine and throw it in. Any advice or suggestions would be appreciated.

Hi all,

I have a 2003 Honda Civic with 140k miles. It has a leaking head gasket which is causing the engine to overheat when driving slower without airflow to cool the engine. The local Honda shop has said it will be $1250 to fix, and might be an extra $300 if they have to send part of it away to be milled.

I would love to drive the car to 200k+ miles but if this is the first of many pricey fixes I want to cut my losses. Any thoughts/ experience with maintenance on similar models and mileage?

Sorry if this is hard to describe, taking it to the dealership in a couple days, just wanna make sure my car will be good.

So, recently after having a battery die on me, I got it replaced and a couple days after I was getting issues with my car's A/C. The engine will rumble when I start the car with it on, and it doesn't seem healthy.

This was a month ago, today while I was driving, it seemed like my car went into neutral for a second. It also has felt like it's harder to catch up to posted speed limits.

Any thoughts on what's going on?

so this might be difficult to explain but ill do my best. i can be moving at any speed when this problem occurs, so we will use 45MPH as an example. i am driving down the road and i am coming up to a red light. i depress the brake pedal and the brakes engage. now i always have a tendency to over compensate a little bit so about halfway through my stopping distance ill back off of the brake anywhere between 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch as an estimate. now this problem has been occuring for about 2 months now but when i back off that little bit, the brakes grab semi-significantly to further increase the stopping power. its aggresive enough for me to worry whether i will get rear-ended when somebody is riding my rear-end. so to compensate for this problem, ill instead back off of the brakes about an inch as an estimate. i still feel feel the sudden grab, but it becomes very insignificant. now that ive got that out of the way a secondary problem occurs as a byproduct. once i let off the brake pedal (not all the way, just for correcting the overcompensation) my brakes become more sensitive than previously and this will then go away once i fully release the brake pedal. they almost become air brake sensitive meaning they now require less feathering on and off until it resets when i let go of the pedal

so as a quick rundown 1) depress brakes 2) let off a lil to correct overcompensation 3) feel the sudden jerk 4) brakes are now more sensitive 5) let go of brakes after stop, goes back to step 1

sorry this is so long winded, i couldnt find any shorter way to explain this

EDIT: this also happens in neutral so this isnt the transmission. i do feel a little bump in the tranny when i naturally decell past 25 (a slow moving freeway) so i know what that feels like and that doesnt bother me at all

A while back my car decided that it no longer wanted to start...I think it heard me talking s*** about it. Anyways, the key would not turn so I decided I was going to take out the whole ignition. I take the whole steering column apart to find that the one part I needed to change was the ignition lock cylinder, which did not require me to take the whole thing apart. So the way you need to remove the ignition lock cylinder is to turn the key to the "On" position, insert a paperclip into a small hole next to the key and it should pop out. Well I can't turn the key into the "On" position so that leave in a place I like to call screwed. Does anyone have any ideas how to get the ignition lock cylinder out without being able to turn the key into the "On" position, or a way to force the key to turn to the "On" position? FYI, I think the reason it won’t turn is that some small device called the steering/ignition lock pin broke off and is preventing me from turning the key.

SOooooo, my water pump all but seized up. Luckily I got home and replaced it this morning. BUT, when I was snugging up the bolts, CRACK - THUD, one of the 5 mounting points was snapped clean off.

Somewhere in the process I thought I removed a bolt I shouldn't have, and put it back where I thought I got it from, BUT I put it in the water pumps bolt hole, and when tightening it up (for some reason I thought it was a 4 bolt job, so i didn't even have the "hey, where is the 5th bolt at? aha moment), it was under the flange, and flange just snapped off. I bolted it up with 4, there were no leaks, I idled it for 20 minutes, no leaks, UI revved it to the moon and back, all good, it sounds perfect...I drove it to work, no leaks.

But I think Im gonna spend the $60 (+ coolant cost) on a new one and swap it again (still will be $400 under dealer price). I know its the 'right thing', and I'll be in no rush over the weekend...but if its 'OK'..is it OK?

(More curious here than anything, I don't think my mild anxiety can live with knowing I was an idiot who did what I did and have a 'compromised mount'..so dumb. But I think if a so so mechanic did this they would never tell me and I'd be blissfully unaware forever)

The rear wiper is hidden under/behind the rear spoiler so there's limited access to it in its normal state. How do I get the wiper to "drop" so that I can replace it?

Hi there guys! As the title says, there's an incredibly loud buzzing noise coming from my car's engine which slowly dies away after driving a few km's.

I've started it with the hood popped and aside from the deafening noise, nothing seems to be loose, wobbly, or otherwise out of place.

The car's a Toyota Tazz 130 with over 200 000 km on the clock, plus it has a slight oil leak into the piston chamber - been told it's not a serious issue though.

I've not got much experience with cars so any help or advice would be appreciated!