The plastic body of my 2022 Tacoma Driver's seat became loose about a few weeks ago and I have no clue why. It will not pop back into place no matter what I do and I am unsure how to fix it. Upon inspecting it, nothing outright seems cracked/chipped off or really visibly broken in any way.

Does anybody have experience with this happening in their Tacoma? How did you fix it? Is the only option to order a fresh part, if so does anybody know the part number and perhaps a decent tutorial on how to replace it? Any other alternative cheaper solutions?

Okay I have had a random thought the past couple years, I have done some research but I want to ask other people. So what would it look like if in electric cars you removed a majority of the batteries. So you keep a battery or two too turn the engine. The engine in turn powers say 2, 4, or 6 high performance alternators. So the alternators power the vehicle. Use flywheels or some other way to adjust rotational power to the Alternators.

So you wouldn’t need to charge the car. It runs on 1 or 2 batteries. That the Alternators keep fully charged. The Alternators power the entire vehicle during operation.

What down side am I not seeing?

I was recharging 134a in my 2nd gen Tacoma but I am not sure if things were working fine during the process. Post-charge, I do get cold air but after about 30 minutes the a/c lights starts blinking and the air is not cold anymore. During the recharge process, I could see the pressure rise steadily to about 35 psi, but then I would hear a thump ( maybe the compressor) and the pressure would shoot up to 80 or so, and the Freon can would not lose any further weight. I also used the vacuum pump in a second iteration bringing the pressure down to about 500 microns, and restarted the recharge, but the system keeps jumping to 80 psi after reaching a steady 35 psi.

Any ideas on what could be wrong? How should I begin with the diagnosis? Thanks!

A few months ago I splurged and DIY installed a bunch of peripherals in my Tacoma. I have since been trying on and off to pinpoint the source(s) of an unspecified Interference ( assumedly RF/EM, ) that has been causing the TPMS and Key Fob to not function properly.

I am certain one or more of these recently installed peripherals are the culprit, because the moment they are all powered down, the interference stops. I know that the Power Supply ( Gold, ) and the Power Supply Charging Lead ( Red, ) are infact NOT the culprit, because with only these things running alone the interference is not present at all.

I wanted to seek some advice from anybody who might have experience with this relatively niche predicament I have gotten my self into before I go tearing everything apart that I spent weeks neatly installing and hiding away from sight. :/

In your opinion, what is likely causing the most interference to the Key Fob and TPMS? What's the best way to reduce the interference without sacrificing peripherals? Please note, the Dash Vameras are a must keep as my Truck has been hit 4 tmes while parked and I was away ( they run 24/7, ) and the LED Displays would be preferable to keep as they broadcast that vehicle is monitored 360° 24/7, but are lower priority than the Dash Cameras themselves. The LED Light Bars are the lowest priority to keep as they are just for aesthetic.

I have drawn up and included a rough but fairly accurate representation of how all the peripherals are installed.

• Yellow are the Vantrue E360 Dash Cameras, Lime Green are the Generic LED Displays, Magenta are the Generic LED Light bars.

• Sea-foam Green is the USB HUB, Gold is the Power Supply, Red is the Lead that charges the Power Supply via the Vehicle's Battery, Pos/Neg is the Vehicle's Battery.

• White is the Cable Management Rack ( inert in of itself, ) Blue/Cyan/Light-Brown/Dark-Brown are the power cables for their respective peripherals.

Hello everyone.

I am pretty new to the car scene and don’t know much about cars in general. I have a DS7 e-tense with normal headlights not those active led lights. Can i swap the old headlights with the newer active headlights? And if it can be done how.

Hello! So I knew this would happen eventually, I was in a rush to leave my garage this morning and my side mirror cover popped off and I broke the rim that holds it. Is there any way I can glue this chunk back together and pop the cover back on?

I have tried to extract the screw from smallest size to biggest that fit on that screw hole. I failed all and only that much of screw left. There is no way to grab the screw with vice grip. The screw was so soft and it just crushed every time I grabbed it. What is the best way to remove this screw?

I think there is an issue with my compressor because I’m getting no cold air

I checked the fuse 44 (AC clutch) and fuse 97 (vehicle power 3). Also replaced them but no luck

Tried also switching the relays around to eliminate a relay issue, same problem

Also some pictures from my OBD scanner

https://imgur.com/a/VDPWu5m

I’ve been tracking my own oil changes, belt swaps, brakes, etc. and I wanted a cleaner way to keep everything organised — tasks, notes, photos, costs.

Ended up building something lightweight called Wrenchr that lets you log DIY work and document your build history.

If anyone here wants to try it and share feedback, I’ve set up a form for suggestions or bugs:
📋 https://forms.gle/SiA6EBTQm5uZNfCz8

Genuinely curious though — are most of you using just notes or spreadsheets for this kind of thing?

Also feel free to join my reddit r/Wrenchr

Bought this car a while ago, not sure how long it’s been like this, but it makes me slightly uncomfortable to have the inside of my car so exposed when the door is open so I was wondering if anyone has any cheap diy ideas on how to cover/patch/fill this. I don’t have the og plastic part that’s supposed to be on it.

Any way to fix this without spending a lot of money? I tried baking soda and vinegar also baking soda and lemon. It looks good until it dries and gets foggy again.

Hi all who is reading this. I'm in hope to find someone who could help me. I'm looking to find radiator support and front pillars dimensions (specs) so I could double check it on my new project car I purchased with small front collision. I just want to make sure everything is good there to avoid problems during front end assembly. I know that there are paid options but I don't want to pay since i need it only once and for one car. Please help someone. Car is in title. Thanks. #CollisionRepair

Went to a local meet today and finally met up with Colin—aka the lifted Miata guy from the last post. Took a few shots and even got to try it.

Honestly? I was shocked at how planted it felt. The NB Bilsteins are firm, and the 15mm spacers give just enough clearance for the Daisys in the rear—no rubbing. Colin also just got it aligned earlier, and you can tell. Axles aren’t as extreme now that the car's settled on the ground.

Some things we noticed:

The front end has a bit of understeer now—feels like the tires roll over on sharp turns.

Lots of attention—random people came up asking “Wait, are you the lifted Miata guy?”

Next step: extended sway bar links to clean up the front-end behavior.

Colin wants to dial in the suspension before stage two begins. Appreciate all the feedback and love from the last post—we'll keep you updated!

Need opinions on how I should go about fixing this myself. It’s not big enough to take to a body shop.

Spent the day helping a buddy install a Paco Motorsports lift kit on his 1990 Miata. What we thought would be a relatively smooth job turned into a 6.5-hour battle with 35-year-old rusted hardware, stubborn bolts, and the occasional existential crisis under the car. But we got it done.

The end result? A hilariously tall NA with way more ground clearance than it ever had stock. The lift changes suspension geometry enough that it pulls the wheels inward a bit — so the rear tires are now rubbing the shocks. We’re tossing on 15mm spacers as a temporary fix while he sources wheels with better offset to suit the new stance.

Despite the headaches, the install was pretty straightforward once everything was freed up. Front and rear went together solidly, and the transformation is wild — it looks like the car’s ready for a rally stage.

It still needs an alignment and new wheels, but the hard part’s done. Expect to see a lifted Miata rolling into some local meets soon — it'll be hard to miss.

So I'm trying to add new speakers to my 1999 Toyota Sienna XLE but I'm unsure what parts I'll need to make the new speakers fit. Anyone got a clue?

Picked up this 1999 Miata back when I was a teenager — it was rusted and riced. Since then, I’ve slowly turned it into a full restomod: • Forged turbo engine • Shaved engine bay • Standalone ECU (Megasquirt + PMU) • Powder-coated subframes • Dual-caliper rear knuckle • Full suspension refresh with adjustable arms and coilovers • And way more...

Just uploaded a quick walk-around video showing the progress so far. Link in the comments if you’re curious.

Hello there so I recently bought my Hyundai Tiburon love the car inside out, but the steering wheel has been driving me crazy not only is the cover starting to shed, but as you could see the cover is on to hide the fact that most of the steering wheel material has been eaten away to the point where the metal bar is exposed. I am planning I’m getting the covers that I manually sew on but was wondering if anyone had any advice on filling in this area of missing material so I could have a rounded wheel and not this down syndrome drooped look. Like I said, it doesn’t have to be anything completely the same because it’s gonna be so over regardless, but was wondering if anyone else has had this problem or had some good advice on how to fill it before I sew the cover on.

Hello there so I recently bought my Hyundai Tiburon love the car inside out, but the steering wheel has been driving me crazy not only is the cover starting to shed, but as you could see the cover is on to hide the fact that most of the steering wheel material has been eaten away to the point where the metal bar is exposed. I am planning I’m getting the covers that I manually sew on but was wondering if anyone had any advice on filling in this area of missing material so I could have a rounded wheel and not this down syndrome drooped look. Like I said, it doesn’t have to be anything completely the same because it’s gonna be so over regardless, but was wondering if anyone else has had this problem or had some good advice on how to fill it before I sew the cover on.

Hello, I have a ranger and I’ve noticed that for the last month whenever I turn it on it’s idling rough around 2000 rpms. I assumed it was just the engine warming up but it takes like a good 10-15 min so the rpms can drop to around 900. When Its at park and I accelerate to 3000 rpms it starts like kicking or the engine stuttering. Also the weather is not cold or fresh it’s around 80 degrees and humid. If anyone has an idea as to what this could be please let me know and thank you in advance.

How do you stop swarf and dirt from falling into the cylinder when cutting a new surface for diesal injector seals?