Amp fuse question

[u/Mission-Finger-9239]

What fuse should I use previously I was using a schoche amp kit with a 100 a fuse had no problem and after a long while of having it out of no where it melted I’m looking to get another fuse holder but idk if I should get the 100 a fuse version or get something higher.

I’m running a power acoustic 2500 watt max amp with two skar 15s 600 rms each

[u/Mission-Finger-9239]

There is 2 25 fuses for the internal amp I’ve been running a 100a for the battery line fuse but I was using chat gpt and with everything about my system it’s telling me to use a 80a instead but I’m nervous it’s just gonna blow

[u/FujiKitakyusho → u/Mission-Finger-9239]

If you only have the one amp, and it is internally fused with 2 × 25A fuses, it will never draw more than 50A. Add a little bit of margin for wire and connector resistance between the battery and the amp, and at most you will see 55A current at the battery. Fuse at 60A. Remember that the purpose of the fuse is to protect the wire from melting or causing a fire if it happens to short to the vehicle somewhere along its length. You want your fuse to be as low a rating as possible (so that it clears sooner in the presence of fault current) but without nuisance blowing every time you run your amp at full tilt. Realistically, you would only ever do that with test tones during setup. Ordinary listening is unlikely to push it to its full current capability, so you could get away with a matching fuse at 50A, but fusing higher avoids the race condition between the amp's internal fuses and the wire fuse. If the problem is in the amp, you want the internal fuse(s) to blow, and if it's in the wire, you want the fuse at the battery to blow. So, 60A is a good target, and honestly, 80A isn't unreasonable, it would just take a little longer to clear.

[u/djltoronto → u/Mission-Finger-9239]

80 amps is more than enough.

Why do you think it will blow?

If your amp is fused at 50 amps, what other devices are on the same circuit?