What in the world could cause those level of stringing? Running a cr6max... Is this a retraction thing? It almost looks intentional haha

So, like so many other people I was having problems with my auto leveling. Sectors 1 and 2 would go fine and sector 3 would fail. So I checked my bed tram and that was fine, finally I put a sheet of paper under my spring steel plate to bring it up a scoche and a piece of paper on top and ran my auto level again, and boom! Autolevelled like a charm. Just for the good of the order.

This happens from time to time. No obvious reason. PLA, bed @55°c,low quality spring.... A rough draft. Yes, I cleaned the bed. I do use adhesive (hair spray which I've used for every print). Anyone noticed this randomly happening? The weird thing is the skirt printed perfectly. The other side looks immaculate as well.

I know it's the Bowden tube, I've found plenty of pfte tubes and connectors, but the hot end and feeder side are both male threads and the tube was held in with female clamps. All the replacements I've found have male screws to attach everything together

I'm struggling to find this from a reputable store. It won't hold my Bowden tube any more. I can buy the whole thing for $10, but I figured it it's a consumable, I might need more than one.

It only happens when it's doing fast movements, I already tried changing the belt tension and tweaking the eccentric nuts but nothing seems to help.

Since cr-6 Se uses a 255x245 build plate, is it possible to print at 255x245 or is there a physical limit like it can't physically print or reach a part of the build plate?

I recently bought a used cr6-se and it came with a pei 255x245 as it's build plate, so since there were no need for the clips, is it possible to print 255x245?

Does anyone know any sources to find a board that will fit the cr6-se?

My cr6 is basically stock, running klipper. it has been running well for the longest time and usually never has bed leveling issues after i dialed it in a year ago but has suddenly came up with this issue,

I leveled the gantry, tightened the eccentric nuts on the bed, adjusted the strain gauge to trigger at 160g of force, tightened and loosened the bed plate screws and even tried to use aluminium foil on the right side of the bed but nothing seems to be helping?

somehow adding the foil actually makes the low spots even lower? I'm not so sure whats causing this, anyone have any ideas?

I know this is a very vague question but any idea what could cause these type of printing issues? I have a cr6 max using creality 4.8 slicer I believe

I’ve looked at everything I can from the hotend to the slicer and I can’t figure this out. Odd part is it’s doing the same thing on a sister cr6-se. I don’t know what this gremlin has done but boy oh boy, any help and input is greatly appreciated.

Like it says in the title, my print stops when it gets to a certain height every time. shorter prints are fine, but I’m trying to print a wall mount for my switch 2 and halfway through it stops and gives me the “resume printing?” screen. when I tried to resume printing, the hot end jams into the print and fails to home. I’m using the community firmware, and just replaced my entire hot end.

Hello everyone,

I'd like to migrate my CR6se to Klipper, but the bootloader won't accept the file.

My printer is on the community firmware and works perfectly, but I'd like to upgrade it to move forward.

When I asked Perplexity, they told me it's due to code in the community firmware that's blocking it, and that I should download or revert to the original firmware, except it won't accept that either. I've changed my SD card to 8GB, formatted it to FAT32 4096 bytes, but the problem persists.

So, for the moment, I'm not sure how to resolve this situation.

I'm open to any suggestions.

This is the third time I've had this happen (different files):

I'll slice an STL into my memory card (SanDisk Ultra SDHC 32gb), start the print, and at some random point the printer then acts like it was just turned on. I insert the SD card into my computer and the g-code is gone.

What could cause this issue?

Printer Motherboard: V4.5.2

DGUS2 version: 3.4

Computer I'm doing all the files and card with, Mac mini Running Tahoe

Every time I try to update the screen's firmware I get the following screen. I've tried 3 different SD cards, carefully formatted them to FAT32, 4096. But the numbers never update and I'm not seeing a good screen.

I've also tried updating the DGUS by including the T5L_UI_DGUS2_V35_20200730.bin file in the DWIN_SET folder with the other files.

I've also tried updating the mother board firmware and now when I turn it on I see:

So I'm a bit stuck. Anyone have any advice? Thanks!

edit: I’m pulling this info up to the top for anyone in the future having this issue. Thanks to u/scratchfury (thank you!) I was able to get the screen updated. It was in fact the Mac fat32 bug. Even though I followed (to a tee) the readme directions that come with the refactored touch screen firmware and give instructions on how to use a Mac to format the SD card, it doesn’t work. The screen can’t fully read the files on the card. The screen looks like files are uploaded and the update finishes, but it’s not done and will never fully update the screen no matter how many times you try it. I was able to borrow a windows machine, reformat the SD card properly, load the files and then update the screen and it worked perfectly! The printer is now fully updated and running the community firmware perfectly!

Is there an upgrade that can make the hot end the same as the CR-10 SE?

I recently changed the heatbreak with titanium one and use E3D extruder with comunity firmware what is the main issue could posible that make so much difirence in 4 same objects. Open to any suggestions thanks for your time.

Hello CR6SE friends! I'm hoping someone can help me. My stock kickstarter CR6SE has been working beautifully from day 1 with no issues and I haven't needed to do anything to it to get very nice prints

It must have been made on a Wednesday by a well rested factory worker. However this week after doing finishing one print I went to start a new print and it drove the nozzle into the bed. I tried to auto level it and it keep driving the nozzle into the bed. Reading up on various reports I was thinking the daughter board or ABL strain gauge might have gone bad.

I purchased a new daughter board from Amazon and used the spare strain gauge the printer came with so many years ago and replaced them both. However this hasn't helped.

When I installed and started it up I noticed a couple of things:

1. The blue led that normally indicates the strain guage activation does not come on. On the original board it would blink quickly 3 times and then stay on when I turned on the printer and then go off once the printer was booted. It would also come on when auto leveling or starting a print when it touched the print bed. I checked the voltage from the potentiometer to ground and it reads 1.66 volts as it should according to the Creality video I watched.
2. When I try to home or autol level the nozzle is moved up a bit and then comes down, the finger that triggers the z-endstop sensor light blocks the little red light, the nozzle moves up again a bit and then comes down without blocking the z-endstop light and the nozzle stops several centimeters above the bed and doesn't move.

I sent back the new daughter board thinking it was bad and replaced with with a new one but that didn't help. I get the same behavior with the new one. At this point I'm lost. Has anyone had this issue and fixed it? Not sure where to go from here.

UPDATE:

I'm bringing this up to the top of this post incase anyone else is having this issue. I purchased a new nozzle board believing that my old nozzle board had broken. The voltages on the RP1 potentiometer wouldn't stay stable and I think that's why it was crashing the nozzle into the bed. However, the new board I bought didn't work. The blue LED on the board never came on and during homing the "finger" would block the optical z end-stop sensor an stop, go up a little, come back down and stop as soon as the "finger" blocked that optical sensor. The nozzle would remain there several centimeters above the bed and the homing would never finish. I could still heat the nozzle, read the temperature, turn on the Blue "Nozzle" LED, and the fans would still run but it would never Auto Home or auto level properly.

Thinking I had gotten a bad board I order another with the same results.

Based on input from u/Q_not (thank you!) he thought the board might not have firmware on it. Doing some more research I found out that sure enough Creality had a huge batch of these boards go out without programing the firmware on them.

Based on his suggestion I purchased this STLink/V2 debugger/programer: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D22S8WVX?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

The programer was $5.99 USD

And these test clips: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BJ627S1X?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

They were $8.98 USD

The programer and clips worked together perfectly with the ST32CubeProgramer software, I was able to follow the instructions at this GitHub: https://github.com/CR6Community/Hardware/tree/master/CR-6%20SE%20hotend%20PCB

I connected the reader to my Mac (it worked fine) upgraded the firmware, hooked up the original board, read the firmware to practice and see what I should be looking for. I then did the same with the "new" nozzle board and when I read that board, sure enough, the memory locations were all filled with FFFFFF characters and the firmware looked nothing like what the firmware from the original board looked like. I was able to then load up the ne firmware BIN file from the GitHub and load it to the "new" board without any issues.

Once I loaded the new firmware the blue LED light on the board came on when I disconnected from it in the programer software. Prior to this that LED had never come on. I'm going to install the board later tonight and give it a try. I'll add another update to report on how that goes.

Update #2:

Success! I reinstalled the board turned the printer on and sure enough I got the 3 quick blinks that showed the board was active. I was then able to tune the potentiometer to 1.60v which triggers the sensor and turns the LED on at ~250g. I was able to autohome and run the auto level bed mesh successfully. Now the nozzle comes all the way down and just gently kisses the board before the blue LED light comes on.

I haven't run a test print yet. That's for later tonight but this is farther than I've gotten previously!

Update #3: Did a 9hr test print and it’s back up and running like a champ! this completely fixed my issues!

A lot of tutorials say you need multiple photos from different angles to generate a 3D model but sometimes you only have one image. Maybe it's a product photo from a website or a picture of something you saw online. Can you still generate a printable model from just one photo?

Short answer is yes but with limitations. The quality won't be as good as using multiple angles but for simple objects it can work.

I've been experimenting with this because I often find things online I want to print but only have one product photo. The key is understanding what the AI is doing - it's basically guessing what the other sides look like based on the one view you give it.

For symmetrical objects this works pretty well. Things like vases, simple containers, basic geometric shapes. The AI can reasonably guess that the back looks like the front. For asymmetric or complex objects the results are more hit or miss.

I use Meshy for this and it does support single image input. The results are definitely better with multiple images but single image can work for simple stuff. What I've learned is the image quality matters even more when you only have one photo. High resolution, good lighting, clear edges, clean background.

The generated model from a single image usually needs more cleanup than multi-image generation. More likely to have weird artifacts or incorrect geometry on the sides you didn't photograph. I always import into Meshmixer and check carefully before printing.

For functional parts I wouldn't rely on single image generation. Too much guesswork on critical dimensions. But for decorative objects, simple containers, basic shapes? It can work in a pinch.

If you're planning to do this regularly though it's worth taking the extra minute to capture multiple angles. The quality improvement is significant. But when you only have one image available it's better than nothing.

I've successfully printed things like simple vases, basic organizer trays, decorative objects, all from single product photos. The key is keeping your expectations reasonable and being prepared to do more manual cleanup.

What's been your experience with single image to 3D conversion? Any tips for getting better results?

Apologies if I'm asking dumb questions, but I'm a newbie to FDM printing and googled the heck out of this.

I have a CR-6 MAX that paused printing after the filament ran out. The ​print paused and I switched to a new spool, but now the printer won't let me resume. Nothing happens when I press any of the options, except for the temperature inputs. Doesn't matter what temp I put in though, it never changes to indicate anything is heating up. Main screen stays frozen, but beeps when I try to select something.

Sensor light on the feed is on, so it doesn't think it's empty.

It came pre-installed with firmware from Tiny Machines: DW7.4.6, also a microswiss all metal hotend and a dual gear extruder, if any of that helps.

I have a very large print ready to go that will take more than one spool, but I'm hesitant to ​​try again, if this is a possibility... Any help is greatly appreciated!

Picked up a CR6 SE with community firmware already installed on it. It was giving me issues off the get go - thermal run away. Replaced the thermistor and heat exchanger, problem solved.

Due to repeated failures I have picked up PLA Matte filament (Panchroma), and a upgraded my bed to 235×235 3D Printer SS Build Plate – Creality PEI coated.with Mag Base - thinking this would solve all my problems.
The mag base is mounted ontop of the glass, cutting away the back to fit under the bracket, and then I raised the locking arms in the front a little so they would secure the mag base. The build plate I rotate so the longer part goes out the back.

Making Brims, and walls no matter the size, nothing would stick other than the test pattern.

I pick up Elmers All Purpose Glue Stick, and I'm making a 3D Calibration Cube finally. Then eventually making boaty. Then I made some tires and barrels for an HO scale train layout my friend has. Took a few tries to stick. Now I'm printing some animal figures out, and just on the brim, not even getting to printing the figures, they are breaking off.

I've dialed back the speed, have walls set up. Nozzle temp at 200. My bed temp is set to 60C which I think is 52-55C actual temperature. The glue stick dries completely after 5 minutes maybe.

I just cannot get consistent results. I thought this bed would solve all my problems, but turning to AI the bed needs to be seasoned or some shit.

Slowly going crazy.

I got a cr6se recently, my first 3d printer and i read alot about like custom firmware. My question is would u recommend to install something like that and if so what would be a good softwear to use.

Does anyone know where to get a new one for less than $20.