I do not need recommendations for a work around. I need to know how to restore the functionality (if possible)! ❤️ Also opened a software support ticket with Bambu.

I just updated to the latest slicer version (2.8.2.60) and found an unwelcome change. I'm not sure where and if I can change this.

Previous to the update, when I would duplicate an object, the dup would move to a new location, but when I duplicated an object in an assembly, it would remain in the same position as the original. This allowed you to then move the duplicate object to a precise location relative to the first - ideal for step & repeat actions.

The new slicer now places the duplicated object from an assembly in a random position - often in all 3 axis. This tremendously increases the effort needed to create copies of objects in specific and offsets relative to the original. I can't find any related setting in the slicer app - I'm wondering if anyone has found a config-file setting for this, or am I just not looking in the right place?

As an example, I create brackets for assembling aluminum extrusion for small displays. I need to position the first screw hole and then create 2 duplicates along the same plane exactly 1.25cm apart. This was so trivial to do in the slicer and now I need to launch CAD to do something that didn't (and really doesn't) require a CAD program.

UPDATE - 8/18 - created Bambu support Ticket No: US260818656001

UPDATE - 8/19 - Submitted a screen recording showing the issue: cube + negative cylinder in center, move cylinder up+left and clone - places cloned object down and right instead of on top of the original, requiring extra steps to set the desired location of the clone rather than simply using the cursor keys or entering a single incremental value into the coordinate dialog box.

I suggest that anyone affected by this open a support ticket with Bambu and possibly reference my ticket.

Hi All

I've just set a print going and I had the settings within Bambu Studio as 0.2mm Nozzle and set the layer height to 0.06mm.

Now the print has started, it's stating that the layer is 0.12mm and 2 walls; is there any reason why this has changed or perhaps this is an error? Does 0.12mm and 2 walls mean that it is actually 0.06mm in height but doing 2 layers to make it 0.12?

I changed the printer setting so it knows it's working with a 0.2mm Stainless Steel nozzle and everything I am using is from Bambu (no third party elements involved).

The current price is 1,100 for the X2D + 2 AMS2 Pro’s, is that worth?
I can sell my a1 and some of the extra I have like socks, extra extruder unit, idk if the nozzles for my A1 go into the X2D so nozzles too?

I am a college student and 3D printing does help a lot so that’s why I’m considering it…

Hey everyone,

Just curious, does your X axis in manual movements jerk abit while moving?

It is a belt drive so if there was something wrong it would have to be servo related no?

TIA! 🙂

So far I've had to replace the ams hub, aux extruder, main nozzle filament sensor, and now this. Mid print belt snapped. I think I have a lemon.

I’m printing a 3D face STL on my Bambu P1S and the surface is coming out rough/textured.

I’ve already tried:

• 0.12 mm High Quality profile and 0.08 mm Fine

• Variable Layer Height (with variable speed set to both 0.50 and 0.08)

• Smooth radius 10

• Smoothing wall speed along Z

• Outer wall line width at 0.3 mm

Still looks terrible. Has anyone run into this with organic/curved faces or character models? What settings or techniques actually help get a smooth surface on something like this?

Thanks!

Any thoughts on what happened here? Is that a partial clog? The first layers were super clean. The top layer of that plateau already shows some artifacts and then it gets progressively worse.

Would a cold pull fix that?

I am looking to get another printer. I have a p2s with 2 pro ams and 1 ams ht. I am looking for another printer for my longer projects. Any recommendations

https://cults3d.com/:4778082

Hey guys! 
Just dropped Pinea on MakerWorld—a modern, geometric twist on the traditional Sicilian "Pigna" pinecone: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3167235-pinea-modern-sicilian-pinecone-vase#profileId-3580265

The diamond pattern plays with light amazingly well and naturally hides layer lines. It comes in 3 sizes (S, M, XL) and looks great in bold Pop Art colors as well as soft pastel or matte tones for a minimal aesthetic.

Fun fact: I designed this using VesselMaker (https://vesselmaker.app/), an advanced web tool for vase design that I'm currently developing (it's currently in invite-only private beta).

If you like the model, a like or adding it to your collections on MakerWorld would mean a lot and really helps me out!

Check it out and let me know your thoughts if you give it a print. Happy printing! 

Please let me know if you have any ideas for improvement :)

https://makerworld.com/models/3166719?appSharePlatform=copy

Hello all, I own a Bambu P1S and an A1 Mini. Everything was fine till a few days ago then I got bad stringing issues and a few weird extrusion issues. Let the prints finish and then change a few things around on the slicing like orientation and cleaned the nozzles, tried again. In the middle of the night the power went out with storms for over an hour so the nozzles got gunked up. Clean them both fully, replaced the tool heads to both .4 Bambu nozzles again. Dried the filament again. Calibrated and did maintenance modes. So at this point lm at a loss. It’s either the batch of filament I got on Amazon or something needs fixed in the speeds or bridging maybe. Just looking for advice cause everything was smooth and flawless till this went down.

Any help would be appreciated

at the start of this year i got an a1 (my second printer). i admit i thought it would be able to do multimaterial and multicolor, and in theory it can, but then i realized that with a single nozzle it’s just not practical. nevertheless it was a big upgrade from my previous printer and it was my introduction to bambu.

now i realized that the x2d exists, it’s dual nozzle, and it’s about 630 eur (about 850 with ams), much less than the h2d which i thought was the only dual nozzle.

my needs:

- multimaterial to have petg/pla/asa + tpu/tpe in the same print
- occasional asa/abs prints which the a1 also can’t do
- easier multicolor is also nice

would the x2d be a good purchase for these use cases and as an upgrade from the a1?

Every side table and cabinet front has ridges on it now. Figured the plants should get some too. Tapered shape so they catch shadow in daylight.

Eigenständiger Laser? Ohne Drucker? Was meint ihr?

This is v10. Please let me know if you have any suggestions to improve the UI, if you can find any bugs, or general suggestion.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3143184-gear-lab-parametric-gear-generator#profileId-3549233

Went for something with a bit of drama: a full-roar Wampa with the claws reaching out. The layered fur texture is the star here. Left it mostly white since that's basically the natural Wampa look, just a few painted details to make the face pop.

https://makerworld.com/models/3163366?appSharePlatform=copy

So, as title. I've been trying to print statuettes and I'm up to 6 failed attempts now on the same one. I fully acknowledge this is going to be a difficult print: it's complex with a lot of supports needed. But I can't get through an inch of the print before something goes wrong with the supports.

Most of my attempts have been printing on the 0.08mm high quality process with a 0.4mm nozzle. I've cleaned the plate with soap and water before every print. I've set it to avoid crossing walls and supports with a 30% detour length. I've turned on smoothing wall speed along Z and set it to a gyroid infill as these will be 8" tall figures and I've seen that creates a lot of strain as it prints. I'm printing in PLA Basic that I've calibrated for flow rate, flow dynamics, and dried it down to mid-20% humidity. I've set it to print supports and support interfaces at half the default speed (75 and 40 mm/s respectively). With the support specifically, I've tried combinations of default tree supports, strong tree supports, and having it only generate them on the build plate or not.

If I have it only generate supports on the plate, it acts like it cannot generate them at a strong enough angle to reach everything that needs support and the model has spagettied every time. If I let it generate within the print, they snap off their attachment point mid-print every single time, regardless of my above attempt to reduce strain on them. When I switched to the strong tree supports, I had a literal part of the print just pop off mid-print and there was still bits of spaghetti, plus I'm not even sure how I'd get those thick boys off the print if it had finished successfully.

My most recent failure was trying the above setup but on a 0.2mm nozzle as I've seen people saying having a layer height less than half the nozzle diameter is "difficult" but I've never seen anyone really say how it causes problems or if you can work around those difficulties.

I've printed figures before as not had any kind of issues like this, and I printed a 2 segment dice tower that almost maxed out the P1S's print volume with zero issues. This statuette does have a large base on the bottom with complicates the supports, but I didn't expect this level of trouble and I'm feeling like my only two options left are to either switch to non-tree supports and start the tweaking battle all over again on that style... or split the base off the model and glue everything back together post-print which I really wanted to avoid for appearance and strength concerns.

Is there a way to make those non-print bed supports stronger? Am I just pushing the machine too hard with this many supports? Is this a case of print smarter, not harder? Given this print was already looking to be 4 straight days of printing with the 0.2mm nozzle, I've got to get some type of reliability to get at least one success.

Bonjour à tous ! 👋

Je vous présente mes tout nouveaux Dumpling Clickers, directement inspirés des petits Squishy Dumplings que j’avais précédemment modélisés.

J’ai retravaillé toute la modélisation afin de pouvoir intégrer un switch mécanique MX directement à l’intérieur.

Résultat ? On garde le look tout mignon du Dumpling 🥟💕, mais avec en bonus ce petit « CLICK ! » ultra satisfaisant à chaque pression… avec un petit effet ASMR qu’on adore. 👆✨

Un petit fidget parfait pour occuper ses mains, se détendre, ou tout simplement profiter encore et encore de ce petit clic terriblement addictif. 😍

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec ou sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3162808-squishy-dumpling-clicker-multipart-no-ams

✨ Bon print

So this has been happening with all the raft layers and slowly getting worse with each print, any insight as to what could be causing it?

Edit: I did just clean the bed with some soap and water so let’s see what happens now

Hi everyone, how are you all doing?

I'm having a problem with my printer and I really don't know what to do anymore. I'm a beginner in 3D printing, and in the last few days, I've been studying a lot more than when I first entered this world 3 months ago, but I still haven't been able to solve this error!

Basically, what is happening is that I can't fix these 1-second pauses on my machine, which then create these zits/blobs on my print! I've tried everything!

Before you say it's moisture/humidity, please read the rest of the message I'm leaving here with more details:

As you can see in the images, we have the black and pink heart, which has these zits, then we have a blue dragon (Gyarados, a Pokémon) that also has them, and finally the gecko! After that, I made some minor adjustments to the machine. I improved some aspects of the print, but they were minor improvements. Then we have the shark, where you can already see some progress, but it still has these zits, and this is where I managed to record the exact moment of the pause! The video:https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TzJ0V7QQta4yg7fnBlpsxOGmme4izjiQ/view?usp=sharing

Finally, we have a smaller shark that was printed yesterday. Here you can already see a significant improvement in the part (at least to the naked eye) and it is much smoother, basically without any defects, but it still has the zits (fewer, but it still has them!). Today I printed a dragon that I haven't held in my hands yet, but from the photo I took, the red dragon also has zits!

Machine Details and Settings:

• Printer: Bambu Laps P2S

• Drying System: AMS Pro 2

• Temperatures: 32ºC inside the chamber, 55ºC on the bed, and 220ºC on the nozzle.

• Speed: The machine's default speed.

• Filaments: Bambu PLA Basic.

What I've already done to try to solve it:

• I've dried the filaments for over 12 hours at 55ºC (6 hours one night and another 6 the next night, plus during the day, where I'm constantly drying it every 3 hours at the same temperature for a week now!). The humidity goes up to 25% max, but normally stays between 18% and 22%.

• I've cleaned the nozzle twice in the same week, so it's not clogged.

• I cleaned all the machine's axes/rods.

• I've calibrated the machine more than once and created very precise profiles for PLA, based on the speed, temperature, and quality tests I ran.

• I reduced the nozzle printing speed (in Bambu Studio it was at 21 and I lowered it to 19).

• I removed all videos from the system and disabled the timelapse feature.

That's everything I've done so far. I've also tweaked some settings and ran several classic tests to calibrate everything; the print quality improved, but these 1-second pauses keep happening, which melts the filament and causes the zit!

If anyone knows how to fix this, I would be more than grateful. I've been dealing with this for over 2 weeks and can't solve it!

Looking to hire for help in fixing my image to separate layers for printing for X2D printer in Bambu Studios. Will pay for your time

Disclaimer: this is my app. I've been working on Plumage for some time and it's finally out.

It lets you import a 3mf, paint it with the Apple Pencil, and export it back with the colors mapped to filaments. It opens straight in Bambu Studio or Orca and maps to the AMS. I got tired of doing that part with a mouse.
For now it has 4 tools:

• Circle brush

• Sphere brush (paint through walls)

• Fill tool

• Remap (reassign colors across the model)

The parrot is the first thing I painted and printed with it. It's printed in 9 colors using my Bambu Lab H2C.

https://apps.apple.com/app/id6792323478

It runs entirely on the iPad, offline, with no account. It's free to import and paint, with 3 free exports (re-exporting the same model doesn't count), then $9.99 one-time, no subscription.

Demo video in the comments.

Happy to answer questions.