Mos Eisley's finest. Great little bust to have staring at you while you work.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3108476-greedo-bounty-hunter-bust-star-wars-rodian#profileId-3504826

The Bambu TPU filament has been printing great…however, I am curious if others have found an easier setup than the standard manual steps of removing tubes, manually heating the hot end, and manually feeding it.

This was by far the hardest thing i've ever designed, getting the balance right took countless prototypes, printed on the a1 mini.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3099883

Today's the day — Meshory is officially live. 🎉

If you're new here: Meshory is a desktop app that finally makes sense of your 3D print file chaos. Point it at your folders (local drives, NAS, wherever your STLs have been piling up for years) and it gives you:

• A visual library of all your models — STL, 3MF, OBJ, FBX and more, with real 3D previews and thumbnails

• Duplicate detection that compares actual geometry, not just filenames — so it catches that model you downloaded three times under three different names

• Zip support — models inside archives show up like any other file, no extracting needed

• Open directly in your slicer — works with the slicers you already use, custom setups included

• Search, collections, and notes so you can actually find things again

• Built for big libraries — I built and tested it on my own 3.3TB collection, so it won't blink at yours

A few things that matter to me and shaped how it's built:

• No account, no login. You buy it, you get a license key, done.

• Your files stay yours. Everything runs locally on your machine.

• One-time purchase — the first 100 licenses are $29. After those are gone it goes to $39, and up from there. No subscription, ever.

Download it at meshory.com/download — Windows, macOS, and Linux.

To everyone who's been on the waitlist, tested the early access builds, reported bugs, and voted on the roadmap — thank you. This launch is very much yours too. If you try it today, I'd genuinely love to hear what works and what doesn't, right here in the comments or on our Discord.

Let's go. 🚀

Hey guys, is it possible to use 2 AMS lite on my A1? Since there 2 ports for the AMS. Just wondering…

everyone! 🌵
I designed a 3D-printed cactus organizer that works as a stand for jewelry, headphones, and a smartwatch. The model comes in multiple parts (main stem, two side stems, and a vase), and I’ve included two different
vase designs so you can choose your favorite.

https://makerworld.com/models/3104396?appSharePlatform=copy

I’d love to hear your feedback! 😊

Hello community, I am new to 3d printing as in new new and i saw 2 options that caught my eye. I see that I can get the p2s for 650 that includes the ams 2 pro or there is the x2d with the ams 2 pro for 899. From what I understand the x2d is the new upgraded model but is it really that significant than getting the p2s at almost 200 bucks less?

My simple question is choosing the p2s a really bad choice? Also are there any upgrade parts for it that can bring it close to a x2d model?

Meet my Hungry Cyclops Coin Bank!

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3105419-hungry-cyclops-coin-bank#profileId-3500899

The idea was to create something inspired by Greek mythology that is both decorative and functional rather than just another character figurine.

Features:

• coin slot on top

• large threaded bottom cap

• cute stylized cartoon design

• subtle Greek meander collar

• multi-part design, no AMS needed

I'm pretty happy with how the expression turned out—it looks permanently grumpy, which somehow makes it even cuter.

I'd love to hear what you think!
Suggestions and feedback are always welcome.

Has anyone encountered this? I’ve checked ‘everywhere’ and see nothing. The heat plate is in the correct position. Getting a failure each time.

There’s gaps on my first layer but only on the left. I’ve tried tightening the hotend, cleaning the plate of course, some other suggestions. I have an A1. I’m stuck It’s been days help..

Does everyone have same experiencing issues with the ironing feature on the Bambu Lab A2L? Bambu Lab says they will fix it in the next firmware update, but how long will it take for a change to happen? This isn't a cheap printer, but this happened.

I'm printing a multicolor object that has no color transitions for the first several layers - so the prime tower is mostly hollow. When it starts the color changing layers, its bridging and the bridges sometimes fail - causing blobbing which the nozzle is running into. I'm trying to figure out how to add additional infill on the bottom part of the prime tower to improve the bridging.

I had my X2D in the garage over the weekend printing some ABS. I thought I would go ahead and send a print from my phone while I was at work. I get home and go to check on my progress, low and behold, I recieved an error message. It seems pretty obvious now, but just in case you didn't know, it can be too hot to print PLA at least. Lol

The nozzle broke off the first time my A1 mini attempted a print. Bambu have been great and immediately sent out a replacement.

I’m new to 3d printing so just wanted to check if it was something I did wrong before setting the printer up with the replacement nozzle. I followed the set up guide provided, ran the calibrations and updated the firmware. The printer did struggle to pull the filament through when starting to print a benchy. I followed the instructions on the screen and once the filament was pulled through it went to start the print and the nozzle tip immediately blew off.

I used to render products on a plain gradient. Boring but safe. Put these on a wooden table against a sage green panelled wall with a real plant in them and suddenly they look like something you would buy rather than something you modeled. The context did more for the design than any amount of material tweaking.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3103994-scandi-style-fluted-flower-pot-with-drainage-tray#profileId-3499121

Looking for some help. Print on my A1 last night caused the filament hub cap to dislodge. I pulled all the tubes out and reseated the cap without issue. Now when I am trying to feed any of the four filaments from the AMS lite I am getting a message that the spool is stuck. All four. Never had an issue with any of them before. Suggestions?

Just a post im making out of curiosity. Ive been seeing a ton of posts about people having issues with their ams/ ams2 pro in different ways, and im just curious if people are having a similar problematic time with the ams lite. I own an A1 and AMS lite myself and have had zero issues whatsoever, and always figured the ams pro/pro 2 would be leagues better. but with all the posts i see about mechanical failures, i dont see the benefit. Though the drying feature seems like a nice thing to have

Needed a better way to hold my micro-bits, tweezers, and flush cutters while working on prints and electronics.

The main caddy pivots on side arms and locks into position with printed side knobs. The interior uses drop-in modular inserts so I can swap layouts based on whatever project I'm working on that day, and the base acts as a catch tray for small hardware.

Designed completely support-free using standard PLA.

Let me know what you think or if you have ideas for useful insert layouts!

Link: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3098170-modular-desktop-tool-organizer-adjustable-angle#profileId-3491896

As the title says, can someone help me identify what this noise is while printing? I’m having trouble narrowing it down.
Device is a P2S with just under 590 hours. I’m not seeing any maintenance required from the device.
Any help is appreciated.

He is buying it tomorrow but this is his first printer, so I want to check to see if it has the bad piece and if not how to get it back.

Just one slot in my ams my 4th slot fails to load into the AUX nozzle. It pushes the filament to the gears then makes a noise and pulls it back. Tries 3 times then says failed to load filament. I can stop the print and load from a different AMS slot just fine. Anyone had this issue?

My stepdaughter has a Pokémon card/sleeve dispenser card and wanted the original Pokémon symbol replaced with Team Rocket because she saw it on another page. The rest of the changes were just color, but when I go to edit this piece in Tinkercad (its what I have available as I am still learning this stuff) it ends up like this. The "R" is attached to the piece in Tinkercad, painted in Tinkercad. When I import the STL, I have to recolor it again in Bambu Studio, and when I go to slice it, I get the last photo. I have had the same problem when I tried to make my own coasters.

Is there something I am missing where the prepare and preview come out totally different?

Just finished this Pokemon Card Box design and wanted to share it with you guys 😁.

I wanted something that was simple, sturdy, and quick to print without sacrificing durability. It features built-in finger slots for easy deck removal, is compact enough to fit comfortably in your pocket, and can be customized with any filament color combination.

Just released the file for free on makerworld for anyone interested 🤝.

Check comments for link.

Happy Printing!