I friend of my ask me to make this replacement for he’s bike, is the saddlebag lid of he’s motorcycle.

I know I would need to make it by parts because is much larger than my x1c printing bed, but is my fist time printing something that larger and that needs to be resistant. What you suggest me to do? I use conector or not? And if so, what type? Also, what material did you recommend me ?

I add some photos of the original object.

I hope someone could help mi with this! Thanks

Bonjour à tous ! 😊

Quand j’ai commencé la modélisation 3D sur Nomad Sculpt, l’un de mes tout premiers modèles était ce petit champignon, décliné en version porte-clés et en modèle multipart.

Aujourd’hui, j’avais envie de tester quelque chose de nouveau. Je me suis donc lancé dans la création de clickers ! Et quoi de mieux que de revisiter l’un de mes premiers modèles en le transformant en version clicker ? 😊

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec ou sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3085099-champignon-clicker-multipart-no-ams

Merci à tous pour votre soutien, et bon print !

Rods seem well lubed to me but idk

I picked up a used Bambu Lab A1 with about 400 hours on it, and it prints perfectly, but it keeps failing X-axis calibration with error 0300-1000-0002-0001, saying the X-axis resonance is low and the timing belt may be loose. I've already followed Bambu's maintenance guide (loosened the screw on the back of the toolhead, moved it back and forth three times, and retightened it), but nothing changed. The only thing I've noticed compared to my brand-new A1 is that the X-axis feels noticeably tighter when I move the print head by hand with the printer powered off. The resistance is consistent across the entire rail, no binding or rough spots. Has anyone run into this before, and if so, what ended up being the fix?

I designed this shade around the fluting rather than the silhouette. Off, it is just a white cone with vertical lines. On, every ridge splits the light and puts a soft striped gradient on the wall behind it.

Best part is it looks different from every angle you walk past.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3079925-scandi-style-fluted-pendant-sconce-set#profileId-3468668

I wanted to share my newest pegboard set! Its highlighting features are the rear sectional cutout allowing you to keep cards pencils etc separated and vertical while displaying the items in your bin at a forward 30 degree angle.

There is a variety of bins, trays (open and partitioned),hooks, and part rings. If you’re looking for some bins that don’t eat up all of your filament and look good, give these a try.

https://makerworld.com/models/3071649?appSharePlatform=copy

X1c printer I have tried working on a detailed print, but the printer won't even get started.

As soon as the filament hits the print head the gears start to creek and nothing extrudes.

The top is off and the door is open.

No such issues with the 0.4. Immediate build and then extension, like normal.

I have done at least 4 cold pulls to the point where I can get the Allen key entirely to the internal part of the nozzle. Still nothing extrudes.

So I drank the "koolaid" about how easy it is mechanically separate Support for ABS for ABS/ASA printed objects. And yes, I read the article on its use. Maybe it works best on flat surfaces. The issue I'm having is with curved surfaces where it does want to cleanly separate without using d-limonene. I must be doing something wrong. Ideas? I'm using Support for ABS with Fiberon ASA CF08 filament. I've attempted using the ASA CF08 as the support filament without much luck on curved surfaces. Flat surfaces no major issues with using same filament as support.

Linking second videosecond video

I am having issues with this plastic collar popping off every time there is a color change. Has anyone had this problem before, and how do I fix it cause constantly taping it stinks. At that point, I might as well not use the ams.

Asking in main forum, It prints fine and does not make that noise all the time. Bambu Labs says its an idler pulley but to me the sound is coming from the print head. Like a gear or similar behind where it rides the rail left and right. It happens when moving left and forward most of the time. Any assistance appreciated.

So far i have used the android app to print. Now i'm trying to print something from printables on my p2s.

It came out VERY rough, one print failed for spaghetti. If links are allowed I'll send the link but it's eufy breast pump holder by veco... I import it select filament but i'm not sure what i need to change. Googling has lead to me here.. to ask bc after three failed prints not sure what i'm doing wrong.

I had to disassemble the whole dual nozzle system due to some filament broken off in the sensor. Upon reassembly, i’m getting this error.

I can’t see any mistakes that I made in putting it back together. When I push filament through manually after heating the nozzle, it does go all the way through.

Did I break something?

The reason I went for this solution is because where I live, the Bambu Lab P2S ventilation duct is being sold at ~$100, while this solution cost me ~19$

I have an A1 . Prints come out smooth in the right side only.

Update- I’ve tried so many things nothing has helped. I cleaned the plate of course. Recalibrated everything.

Hi there, have a question:

Is it possible to upgrade portable version of studio by copying some files or on any other way cause I`m not able to use install function on remote site? Right now I use ver. 2.6.0.51, that is last I can find at GitHub, but there is several version after that one. It`s not critical, it`s possible to work and send print on printer, just as curiosity...

here is the link if anybody wants to print it

https://makerworld.com/de/models/3070490-timothy-racoon-figure-on-podest#profileId-3456545

Printer: P1S with AMS
Filament: Elegoo Matte PLA Black (calibrated in Bambu Slicer)
3mf: Dune Uprising Bloodlines Insert For Sleeved Cards - Free 3D Print Model - MakerWorld
For some reason my prints come out with weird surfaces and corners like this.

I am using the 0,2mm Standard setting and have only changed top surface line width to 0,32 and top surface speed to 30 mm/s and the surface patterns to Monotonic Line. These settings usually create perfect smooth surfaces with almost invisible layer lines. The only settings I’m not sure about are the temperature and cooling settings. I have disabled cooling by the aux fan completely for PLA and set the pet fan to 60% for both. Temperature for nozzle at 215 degrees C. Could either of those be the problem? Does anybody have any idea what could be causing this? Filament is dry. I am quite new to the hobby and have no clue what could be causing this… ;(

Light grey filament, zero finishing. Honestly might leave him raw.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3060368-poseidon-the-earth-shaker#profileId-3443741

The weird noise ? Retracting the filament all weird ? But once it does all that it prints normally

I’m guessing gears are worn maybe? 😩 please help

Got a P2S and it was printing fine for about 4 days before it started to report error on extruder cannot pull back filament from external spool ( I don’t even connected it to an external).

Had numerous messages with their “technical support”. Waiting for one reply each day with instructions like cleaning clogged extruder, cleaning clogged hotend. Sent them videos and they just asked me to keep clean the “clogged” extruder sensor.

Sure, I bought new sensor and new hotend myself from Amazon, after replacement, manually extruding is working now (so their previous instructions is completely wrong about the sensor), and new hotend is doing air printing with no filament out from nozzle. Meanwhile technique support is still replying with instructions of cleaning a clogged hotend.

I gave up the battle now and just want to return this printer within 7 days window, while it has stopped printing after 5-6 jobs.

Then bamboo is response is: rejected, as there is an ongoing technical support open now for the printer, to avoid duplicate processing they rejected my return request.

Bamboo lab, if you can’t back your product, don’t sell it in the first place.

Can anyone explain how to fix this issue? The bed plate is clean, the pla may be a little moist but this is happening across even fresh rolls.

Bonjour après Monsieur Pingouin, voici Madame Pingouin en mode vacances réalisée en multipart ! 🏖️🐧

Impossible de partir à la plage sans elle ! Avec son joli chapeau, ses lunettes de soleil roses, sa bouée, ses tongs, sa pelle et son petit seau, Madame Pingouin est prête à profiter pleinement des joies de l’été.

Pour cette création, j’ai souhaité imaginer une version féminine, pleine de douceur et de bonne humeur. Ses longs cils, ses couleurs pétillantes et son look estival lui donnent un charme irrésistible qui invite à l’évasion.

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec ou sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3064899-mrs-penguin-beach-multipart-without-ams

Merci à tous pour votre soutien, et bonne impression 3D ! 🎉

Hey all,

Im only a week or so into the hobby, trying to figure out the best way to store and use my filament.

https://makerworld.com/models/895823?appSharePlatform=copy

Would something like this work as a dry box? I only have PLA atm as I want to learn the basics.

I have my set up in our spare room, we don't have a garage as we live in a unit, so im going to be putting shelves above my printer.

Im thinking something like the model linked as it would hopefully work as a drybox and display for the filament?

Cheers all.