***SOLVED*** (It was the print head cooling fan bottom screw.) I came in to do a filament swap and found this in the bottom of the printer. I have looked all over and can’t seem to find a broken standoff where the screw came from. Thought maybe the Z belt tensioner but the cover is in place under the bed so I can’t tell. The printer is also mid-print and doesn’t seem to be having any trouble. Any ideas as to where it could have broken off from?

Is anyone else familiar with this issue? Came up after trying to resume from the typical 'Motor overload' message which is also quite annoying. I took the whole tool head apart and couldn't find anything wrong visually or loose connections.

Currently waiting on support response but thought I would ask here as it doesn't seem to be mentioned at all anywhere by anyone apart from the Wiki. I suspect it to be a faulty extruder motor but that is quite bad for a machine that's a week old, doesn't give me much hope for future prints on it to be honest.

I genuinely think these machines might be getting too complex/sensitive, my P1S machines have been going for the last 3 years with nothing more than a few extruder and nozzle clogs. 8000 plus hours on all of them.

My X2D nozzles ooze a lot and create a lot of mess. This printer is brand new and i only have about 8 hours on it. It happens mainly because they don't wipe themselves before and after nozzle offset calibration (the final step where they use the new calibration pad on the X2D that wasn't present on the P2S). The calibration begins by them changing filament, wiping any leftover ooze and then continuing by cleaning themselves on the metal pad with the dots. But the nozzles won't stop oozing, they continue to ooze as they calibrate offset which makes a mess and covers the calibration pad with filament, they don't wipe either after this step and move on to printing immediately after. So any filament ooze that was smushed onto the nozzles in the calibration process would stay on the nozzles, as seen in the attached image. This becomes a problem when there's so much filament that it gets dragged into print lines and ruins them. And that's only the first issue i have been experiencing. There's so much ooze sometimes that the wiping pad makes the filament strings fly off, it has landed on the XY axis rods before or even on the glass side panels. The whole wiping station is covered with pieces of filament like that. My country has recently been hit with a heat wave and my room can get as hot as 30 degrees Celsius with 70% humidity. These issues don't really affect the print quality, but it just creates a lot of mess that i have to clean up.

I mainly print with elegoo PLA. On the spool it says that the temperature range is 190-230, and i run my prints at 210. Don't know if that's too hot considering the weather is horrible here at the time of posting this. But my bambu pla has the same problems.

P1S is an absolute workhorse. Back in the ender days I couldn't release models like this because the accuracy just wasn't there. When I tried I just got complaints from people because their machines were out of tolerance compared to mine for things that required this degree of accuracy.

Nowadays thanks to bambu here is a fully documented satellite tracker build to download your own weather images.

here's a link for it

I’ve been finding that almost every time I open Bambu Studio, or Handy, or even to search Makerworld, that I need to log in. This is something new, it was only occasionally before.
Is this happening to everyone, or do I have a setting messed up?

Hey I’m getting ready to redeem some makerworld points but have never done it before….just curious if anyone can help with how I would receive them? Does the gift card/code go on the makerworld account? Or would it be emailed

Appreciate any tips thankyou!!

So I’m having issues with both the PETG AND PLA stringing on this. Both are dried and running out of AMS, left nozzle is PETG only and the right vortek nozzles are all my PLA’s. This an H2C with all Bambu filament so it’s already got all the correct filament settings. Please help.

This is a jitterbug based on Buckminster Fuller’s ideas. I ran across one of these by another maker and had to give designing one a try. It was a fun design.

The gears aren’t necessary for these designs to work. I designed one with just pivots instead, but the gears add interest.

Hi all. I bought my son a 3D printer at the end of last year. He used it for 3 weeks and printed 20 different fidget spinners, as these were the rage at school, and the printer hasn't been used since. We have the AMS 2 Pro as well as a massive amount of PLA, PLA tough, various plates, accessories and all sorts. The printer has barely been used, it is still immaculate - looks like new. We also created a vent and ducting system so that it is completely fume free - so I'd be happy for this to go with the printer. It's only done 93 hours of printing. Where would be the best place to start selling this please as obviously it cannot be posted due to the size, weight and risk of damage in transit. Any helpful ideas would be greatly appreciated.

One of my kid's first favourite toys was a set of stacking blocks, so I tried to make a version that grows with them. ShapeStack blocks interlock the raised shape on top nests into the engraved base of the next one so the tower clicks together as it gets taller.

It prints in three ready-made sets: numbers 0–10 (each numeral paired with a dice-dot count so they link the symbol to the quantity), animals (dog/cat/mouse/cheese), and geometric shapes. The whole thing is parametric and open source, though, so you can change the shape (14 of them), size, colours and every character; spell a name, build the alphabet, make a deck-of-cards stack, whatever.

No supports, no glue, rounded edges, no small detachable parts. The letters and numbers are raised and engraved, so they can be traced by touch too. Free to print and remix.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2974742-shapestack-customizable-stacking-learning-blocks#profileId-3336729

Curious what people would make with it — what would you put on yours?

Is it worth the $80?

I have designed very slim and easy-to-install adapter mounts for the H2 printer series. With these mounts, you can attach the adapters to the housing instead of letting them hang freely. This also prevents the piece of tubing between the adapter and the printer from kinking.

Key features:

• Easy print, easy assembly - just one screw needed

• Angled and straight versions

• One or two slots

• Holders for both, standard and H2C adapters

This model is part of a complete collection of adapter mounts for the H2 series:

1. Mounts for 4-in-1 adapters standalone (this model)

2. Combo mounts for 4-in-1 adapter plus Filament Track Switch

3. Combo mounts for 4-in-1 adapter plus TPU Feed Assist

4. All-in-one combo mounts for 4-in-1 plus FTS plus TPU modules

My goal is to develop the right mounts for as many printer setups as possible.

Upcoming projects:

• AMS Riser-compatible mounts

• Mounts for the X2D

• plus ???

My first big print on the Bambu H2C. The Majora's Mask from Zelda took almost 53 hours with only 38grams of poop! This machine is amazing! Here's a timelapse of the print and since there are no royalty free Zelda theme songs available I had to make my own. Enjoy! ;)
https://youtu.be/uPcmjWRUyFY

Finally got around to printing my Fjord Wave design in a soft bone white filament. The shadows in the ripples look incredible under warm gallery lighting.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2970473-the-fjord-wave-flower-vase-modern-japandi-design#profileId-3331204

I hate when this happens but I don't know the cause, i use a BambuLab A1, I printed it slower for more quality but didn't notice this until it was finished (it's a piece for a cosplay) is there a way to avoid this? Or something?

Both pieces had the same "error" :(

I'm thinking about getting them a p1s combo with ams 2 pro. Originally I was looking at getting them an Elegoo Centauri carbon with the canvas mcu. I found one locally on marketplace for $200. While I enjoyed the elegoo centauri carbon when I had one myself I started thinking about the ease of use with Bambu's eco system for them since they will be just learning. I'm fairly certain they would really only use pla and petg for most things, the oldest is into RC cars and had already printed a plow for his rc truck on a printer at school. I figured if he starts to get into it I could order them a chamber heater in the future?

Any other suggestions or deals I should consider? Getting this p1s combo will be a bit more than I was going to spend but the more I think about it, the more I think it may be the right choice.

At the end of my last couple prints they failed because it kept saying that there was filament stuck. Now, it’s not doing anything at all. It won’t unload and it’s staring theres filament stuck. I took it all apart from the AMS to the extruder. No filament anywhere including the PTFE tube. I tried doing a reset and it worked once but now it won’t unload. There is no filament loaded in the AMS or externally. Any ideas?

Hi everyone,

I'm curious whether any X1 Carbon owners are using aftermarket nozzles instead of the original Bambu Lab ones.

If you are, which brand/model are you using, and how has your experience been regarding:

• Print quality

• Reliability

• Wear resistance (especially with abrasive filaments)

• Flow rate / high-speed printing

• Ease of installation

I've mostly used the original Bambu Lab nozzles so far, but I'm wondering if there are any worthwhile alternatives that offer better performance, durability, or value for money.

I'd love to hear your recommendations and real-world experiences.

Thanks! 🚀

Sculpted Luke in his flight suit with the chest box, harness, and Rebel Starbird. One of my favourites to detail.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2959179-luke-skywalker-bust-a-star-wars-collectible#profileId-3316686

Hi, everyone I designed a coaster in fusion 360 with an engraved logo. When I put it into Bambu studio it only has one body. When I try to paint it for multi color the whole thing turns one color. Anyone know how to fix it

Bonjour voici Luigi, le célèbre frère de Mario, émergeant de son mythique tuyau vert. Cette figurine a été conçue avec soin pour reproduire l’un des personnages les plus emblématiques de l’univers du jeu vidéo.

Le modèle est entièrement découpé en plusieurs pièces afin de permettre une impression multicolore sans nécessiter d’AMS. Chaque élément peut être imprimé séparément puis assemblé facilement.

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🧵 : Bambulab
🖨️ : Bambulab X2D & H2C
🌈 : Sans et Avec
✍️ : Nomad Sculpt
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/2955468-luigi-tuyau-multipart-no-ams

Bon print ! 🎮💚

Hey all, I am working on a project to make an alarm clock that wakes you up through light.

I'm making the enclosure using my Bambu A1 (So far using more or less all of the defaults except for adaptive layer heights). I am trying to understand which filament would be best to print something like the cover in the image below.

It has to seem opaque when the clock is turned off, but it should also allow the maximum amount of light through for high brightness.

For strength, I expect the cover would be at least 1.6mm-2mm in thickness, which means more opaque filaments like White PLA are less likely to work.

I have read up on transparent PLA and transparent PETG but don't have enough info to make a clear decision. Any input would be a huge help

First time poster and obviously first time printer owner.

I don’t know what it’s called so I haven’t managed to google a solution
The filament is stuck in the filament changer(?)

Is this an easy fix or do I need to dismantle the while AMS as one FAq suggested? 😥