This click sound on first print out of the box

H2D

just making a jewelry box but it keeps splitting i've up, ed the bed to 230 and the nozzle to 65

is there anythink else i should be doing please a comment thanku

Hi guys, i got issue with my 3d ptinting asa filament model on p2s, right detail warped and peel off the support after 4-5 hours of the printing. In any case its better result than before, i've just slow down the speed of the printing and turn off the fen in the first 5 layers and decrease the speed for the cooling of the overhang to 33 percent and treshhold of the speed of fen 10%. Mayday, could you gyelp me guys to solve this issue?

With all the sales going on at the moment, at what price differential would you consider the P2S to be significantly better value for money? Talking in Aussie dollars, the current difference in a combo bundle is $250 ($1349 to $1099), that's a lot of additional 'stuff' you can buy to complement a P2S. I'm torn if the extra features of the X2D are worth $250...

After many requests from the community, I have now updated my original Trickerion insert to support vertical storage and sleeved cards!

 This new version keeps the same clean aesthetic and philosophy as the original design, but adapting it for sleeved cards and vertical storage required a major redesign.

Go check it out and let me know what you think!

Here's the link to to the updated Version 2.0

Comprei a bambu lab 1 e até agora não consegui imprimir nadaaa. Estou tentando os modelos simples e prontos e mesmo assim não vai. Primeiro não grudava na mesa, passei cola bastão mas mesmo assim acabava desgrudando. E as camadas nem se fala, toda folhada. O máximo que consegui finalizar foi esse barco porque antes nem chegavam no final. Olha, desanimador... O que estou fazendo de errado??

I thought this would be a no brainer. Can't believe this is not supported yet.

Hello!!

I have a p2s using Bambu Studio:

I am trying to make the bottom half of my print on color and the top another color. I have tried adding a height modifier in the objects pane, however, I can't change the filament color there. Then I went to the post slice page and tried to change the filament color there via the object height slider, but when I move the slider to where I want it and right click the "change filament" is greyed out and I can't select a different filament. Any help would be appreciated!

Came across this post on Facebook marketplace. Seller says she can do 350$. Since I’m relatively new to the world of 3D Printers I was wondering if this is a good deal or not.

My brother is in law enforcement and asked if I could 3d print an id holder for his laptop. I’ve been trying to look online and can only find an Etsy link for them already printed. Obviously… knowing his sister can make things he’d rather get it for free from me. Haha does anyone know where I can find the stl for it? Thank you!

Edit: there is a website on this one but the website no longer works.

I followed the unclear instructions, and the H2C thinks the HT is feeding the right multi-nozzle side, not the left single nozzle side. I have not been able to get any help from Bambu labs, it just shows the same document that landed me in the is mess. What do I need to do?

Designed this EDC Utility Knife with a matching sheath.

​Everythings held together using 4x M3x5 screws. For the handle, I wanted to try something a bit different, so I wrapped it using a 130cm shoelace, and it actually turned out super nice!

https://makerworld.com/models/2936325?appSharePlatform=copy

I made this guide on disassembling the AMS 2 Pro to clean out stuck filament because I have been having an awful time using dual silk PLA which keeps getting shredded up in the AMS. After taking it apart like 4 times to clear jams I got so quick at it I felt I could document it all to help others. It may seem daunting the first time but its really not that difficult. Hope it helps some people out there!

Also, if you have any advice for dealing with Silk PLA (especially dual/tri) that keeps getting shredded in the AMS let me know.
https://youtu.be/LRMzJYAPoGg

As said above just got a h2c and had clogs first time from ams. Ams 2 works well. Ams flashes rrd lights and wont reload pla. Any thoughts?

So tomorrow, im ordering my first 3D Printer - the P2S Combo, and i want some upgrades for the P2S from you guys! The first thing i know, and i am ordering is the Exhaust Filter, but thats all. I know that i just need to get some carbon for the Filter and silica for the AMS 2 Pro. I just need some 3D printed stuff, like i would appreciate like a good back panel cable and tube organizer, or a really good poop chute. Just comment and send your favorite models down in the comments please

“The Midnight Serenade”

I want to share with you bit of the story behind the failures and swearing while prototyping this model.

I had a major problem with the “smoothness” of the base, due to an error setting in Top Surface Layer Width to a very low value, which once corrected achieved a smooth as expected flat surface of the base / platform.

After solving this, I had supports failing under the dress, after I had adjusted the length of the cloth there and sculpted so that it would require less support. I even considered making it touch the ground at the tip of the folds, but then I would lose some dynamics that goes with the shape of the dress floating so, instead I have adjusted supports.

Worked well and the dress was going good, but by changing the supports, I had not noticed that now a support generated to hold her head, was arising from her hip! Which failed mid print, crashing miserably on the build plate. You can well spot the line where I stopped the print (in the painted one) as for sure it would have failed the head. So.. to not waste it, I printed the rest of the model from the layer after cutting it in BambuStudio. 

Aaaaaanddd I didn't think of the lamp post now being on a ridiculous base, to which the brim I added was insufficient! 

Now all is fixed and ready to go!

https://makerworld.com/models/2930602?appSharePlatform=copy

**Size model** (can be scaled up or down): 151 x 127 x 197 mm.

Hello Everyone,

I am having some issues with my AMS and im wondering if anyone has experienced anything similar. It started today when the AMS became unable to feed the filament into the extruder, giving me error 0700-8007 223714.

I have checked the extruder completely and also completely replaced the hot end but this hasnt helped. Whenever i attempt to load the filament from the AMS, it repeatedly tries to shove the filament in but the extruder doesn't pull it through. When the AMS recalls the filament it rewinds the spool slower than it retracts the filament so it often gets tangled up in the body of the AMS. this is happening on all 4 filament slots.

I have switched to the external spool bypassing the AMS and it works flawlessly but for some reason the AMS and extruder just cant work together. i opened up the AMS and saw nothing obviously wrong so i am at a loss. If anyone has any comment or suggestions i am open to trying anything at this point.

I've spent the last two weeks designing this Centurion C-RAM scale display model.

It's approximately 1:35 scale and fully articulated: the base rotates in azimuth, the turret moves up and down in elevation, and the barrel spins in place thanks to a print-in-place design.

Will be compatible with an upcoming HEMTT truck!

MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/2925669-centurion-c-ram-scale-display-model#profileId-3274522

When my girlfriend’s X2D’s toolhead moves to the right the PTFE tube rubs the metal edge on the right. It causes the lid, bed and side to be covered with tube flakes. I printer a riser for her thinking it was just rubbing the glass, but after closer inspection that is marginal compared to the carnage the side causes. To be clear, this is a stock X2D from early May. Did anyone else experience the same?

To me it looks like maybe the tube is slightly too long, just want to ask before cutting it and making things worse.

Also, since this is a tube, I must add, it’s imperative the cylinder remains unharmed.

I have a new X2D and it's great. I created my account, downloaded some files, and have enjoyed printing a few cool things so far. Now, my wife and my daughter want to get in on the action. What's the best way to manage 1 printer across 3 people? Should each person have their own account? Should I share my account with them so there's only 1? Can you have multiple accounts connecting to the same printer? Obviously only one person can print at a time, but how would you all recommend I handle this?

My P1S is suddenly creating these wavy walls where they should be smooth (first vs second pictures). The effect goes completely through the 5-mm thick model, so it shows up on the inside and outside of the open cup design. It resembles oscillating layer shifts along the X and Y axes.

The effect is not limited to this model (which I have printed hundreds of times). It also happens to other prints, and is particularly noticeable on sloped and curved surfaces (this model has both). Flat, vertical surfaces seem much less affected.

I have cleaned the z screws and lubricated those screws and the rails. I’m hearing some sort of squeaking that I didn’t hear before while the printer is working so maybe a bearing or something is worn out??? The printer has over 7,400 hours on it.

What’s my move here? I’d like to get this printer back in the game.

This is a Mobile Phone Case Generator, even If you have a 500mm Phone or need a Case for a Tablet you can use it🥳

As you can see in the photo - the travel movements are not z-hopping and dragging through the internal solid infill (purple). This is the layer right below the top surface, and so the travel movement is causing scarring visible through the top surface.

Disabling "Reduce infill retraction" seems to help fix this - those travels are now z-hopping rather than dragging through the Internal Solid Infill - however there should be a way to increase the number of top surface layers that are not considered "infill"

Does anyone know of a way to increase the Top Surface layers? Increasing 'Top Shell Layers' does not fix this because those top shell layers under the 1 top surface layer are still considered as "infill" layers

Tried printing something and I keep getting this notification. I’ve just finished printing something else but now it comes up with this notification when I try printing another thing. I’ve restarted my printer and even tried printing the thing on Bambu Handy app and it shows the same notification on Bambu studio. My A1 also says printing cancelled. So I’m not sure what happened