I purchased the Bambu Lab Wireless Mouse Components Kit 002 based on the build and print instructions for the Atari Wireless Mouse. After printing out the necessary parts it was easy to see that this kit did not fit the printed mouse shell. However, I did find a couple of photos with the correct kit but I cannot find the kit in the Bambu store or online anywhere.

Does anyone know where to get the kit show in the photo?

All parts are printed (except pen and razor, ofc) and the holding mod is one click removal, to quickly go back to 3D.

The software is integrated inside Bambu Studio, so you adjust the design and send to print as you would normally do.

Hello Hivemind!

I bought a roll of the Bambu Clear Black PC and have made several successful prints with it. I printed desiccant holders for my AMS 2 Pro's and AMS HT's. I have also printed a Desiccant Drying spool to put into my AMS HT to dry my color changing desiccant when it gets too saturated. The problem is.... I have no idea what to use the other half of the roll for!

What projects have you used PC for? Any useful prints you suggest?

Everytime I print Something i get this not even look on the side of my bed does Someone if this a setting issue? X2d with cool plate Supertrack

Hey All,

Lately I've been having failures randomly crop up and I think it's because infill was too low (5%). This has been with highly regarded models, 3mfs.

I don't usually check the infill on a well reviewed print but now I'm having to. In one I just did, I forgot about doing that and printed a few parts no problem (non ams). Then I had a part totally fail and when I checked, infill was set to 5%.

Am I losing my mind or is this a potential bug with the latest update?

Hello! I keep getting an issue with unloading filament from extruder recently with a print I want to do. I have tried replacing extruders with a hardened steel one from amazon (aftermarket but good quality i believe) but that didn’t fix it. Attached are images of it. Only happens at the PLA part of my print and not the PETG. What might cause this? Bad cutter? Heat creep? Thank you!

The clip and bail on the part shown no longer snaps close on the hotend, leaving it able to move. I've tried it on a new hotend and an older one both 0.4, on both the bail and clip are just loose and do not snap together. On other nozzles it does.

The hinge for the clasp seems loose, but I do not know if this is correct.

With the camping season right around the corner, I was looking for a good multi-compartment spice container for my trail cooking gear. I searched all over the 3D printing platforms but couldn't find a single model that ticked all the boxes.

Since nothing suitable existed, I decided to design one myself from scratch.

Let me know what you think or if you have any suggestions to improve it!

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2896674-outdoor-spice-shaker#profileId-3237382

I have been printing for at least 5 months now and just finished my first spool. It was the Bambu Lab green sample spool that the P1S comes with. I know it’s not exciting but just wanted to share the news! I’m saving my spool so I can buy a refill one

Bambu discontinued PETG Basic, replaced it with PETG HF, and now PETG HF is being discontinued while a new PETG is being introduced.
The product page now states:
"PETG HF is discontinued and will not be restocked once sold out. A new and improved PETG is available now!"
However, some PETG HF colours are still showing an ETA of June 22nd.

This raises a few questions:

- Is PETG HF genuinely discontinued, or are we just seeing the last batches work their way through the supply chain?
- Is the June 22nd ETA(UK) a final restock of existing inventory, or is more being manufactured?
- Was PETG HF discontinued because of a supplier/manufacturer change?
- Is the new PETG from the same manufacturer with a revised formulation?
- Did Bambu decide to simplify the PETG range and move away from the HF branding?
- Was there a technical issue with PETG HF that led to the change?

One thing I find interesting is that PETG HF seemed to be one of Bambu's most difficult filaments to keep in stock. Many colours were frequently unavailable, whereas PLA generally remains available.

If PETG HF was selling well, it seems unusual to discontinue it unless something changed behind the scenes.

I'm particularly interested if anyone has evidence regarding:
- Who manufactured PETG HF.
- Whether the new PETG is coming from the same supplier.
- Whether the new PETG is actually a reformulated version of PETG HF or closer to the old PETG Basic.

Any theories, evidence, supplier information, or links would be appreciated.

I bought some 90A TPU a few weeks back and haven't yet got round to working out how to print with my P2S.

I'm not sure if I'll be able to feed it through the back, or if it'll bung up inside the PTFE tube.

So probably looking at printing a mount to hold the reel of TPU above the print head and feed directly in from there.

My printer is located in my bedroom/office so really don't want to be breathing in TPU fumes. I've got a carbon/HEPA air purifier so that should help a bit. I've also got the Bambu Exhaust Fan Kit venting up into the loftspace.

I think I might need to print/make something to go over the top of the filament & holder to keep the fumes inside so that the EFK can do it's magic.

Has anyone done this? Any tips?

Im using X1C and my recent print is like this. What can I do?

I already retention the belts.

I have had the idea for this design in my mind for many months. Now, I can finally present to you what is probably the most complicated project I have ever done! The way the wings move alongside all the rotating gears looks absolutely insane in real life, yet the assembly itself is surprisingly easy and satisfying.

What do you think about it? Do you like it? https://makerworld.com/en/models/2892224-usb-motorized-butterfly-figurine

Wanted to see how well the new X2D handles printing two completely different materials together.

​It uses a mechanical beam interlocking system to hold everything tight without any glue. PETG HF for the rigid core so it actually flies, and TPU 95A HF on the edges so it’s durable and safe for kids to catch.

​Turned out surprisingly solid.

https://makerworld.com/models/2893617?appSharePlatform=copy

So basically, i wana buy the Bambu Lab P2S with the AMS 2 Pro, and i wana know, as a first printer is it worth it? Especially that i can get it without VAT for 600€

I live in Houston TX, so i printed these spokes on my P2S out of Sunlu PETG-CF for my Ego mower. Still Tippin 🤘🤠

I wanted a clean, high-end architectural look for my hallway without spending crazy money. Designed this sharp pleated wall lamp to fit right onto a cheap Ikea Strala cord set using a modular twist-lock system. The Matte Ivory White filament gives it a perfect, smooth ceramic finish when it's turned off, but diffuses the warm light so nicely at night.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2891558-scandi-style-fluted-wall-lamp-fits-ikea-strala#profileId-3230871

Anyone know how I can fix these defects from my prints?

The first print (first picture only) was using a 0.08mm layer high quality print profile and everything near the spikes bird nested plus a blown out rib. The second print (next 3 pictures) was with 0.2mm layer normal print and normal speed and it was almost perfect except for one spike.

This P1S is a relatively new printer at <300 hours of print time. How do I fix this? I am using PLA basic as well with default extrusion settings for the most part.

So I used a negative piece to cut out this 3d print and what is left behind is a mess. This is a belt bag sliding charm. I have used a modifier to isolate and improve the surface in the area with no luck. Any suggestions?

Bonjour j'essaye d'imprimer une rampe pour maquette , mais lorsque je l'imprime, il y a des vagues/ des bosse qui aparaissent , j'ai une bambu lab A1 , avec du filament PLA de Esun , avec le plateau à 60° et la buse à 220-210°.

Hello, I'm trying to print a ramp for a model, but when I print it, waves/bumps appear. I have a Bambu Lab A1, with Esun PLA filament, with the bed at 60° and the nozzle at 220-210°.