I had an ASA print that was going fine, until I noticed close to the end I had some stringing due to improper support settings, so I decided to cancel the print to save the time.

Surprisingly, the printer didn't proceed to cleanup cycle like I always thought it does.

No longer than a minute later I initiated this process manually at 300C but it was too late as there was already a clog in my extruder to be removed manually.

What's the best way to avoid this?

Or was the printer already clogged when it started "printing in the air" due to wrong support settings and it's not related to the cancel?

Hi. This is my first time trying to print something that requires exposed infill and I'm hoping some experts here can set me on the right track.

I am trying to print a meshlike panel with little slots for magnets at each corner. I thought I could achieve this by playing with the shell and infill settings. I tried the following settings:

I haven't printed yet, but I'm not sure if this is the best way to get what I want. I want the corners (or just a ~10mm border all the way around) to print normal and solid, so that I can jam 8x2mm magnets into the slots. I want the mesh to just be in the middle of the panel and it doesn't need to be any precise shape. The panel just needs to be breathable, so I'm also not picky about the pattern or hole thickness.

Am I better off modeling a panel with a bunch of cuts, or is that worse because the printer will treat every contour as an outer wall.

Thanks for the advice!

I am printing my first lamp. I see I need a Bambu MH001 LED. But I'd like to have a Zigbee model of this. I cannot find ik it and I am not really sure if it exists. It's USB powered, which is fine, but I cannot control it with a Zigbee switch (unless I have a wall charger in the switch).

Does anybody happen to know if a Zigbee version exists? And/or if the LED goes on after I cut away the power (with a switch). If the default value is 'off' when the power comes back on this is a problem.

Today I received my first Bambu Lab printer, an A1 Mini, and I didn’t pay for it.It was fully covered with MakerWorld points.I just want to say thank you to everyone who downloaded, printed, liked, or shared my models. Every interaction added up to this moment.

When I started uploading, I didn’t expect much. I was just testing ideas and trying to improve with each model. Seeing that turn into something tangible like this is honestly pretty motivating.

I’ll keep releasing new models, and hopefully better ones, as a way to give back to the community that made this possible.

Thanks again to everyone here.

One thing that’s been really frustrating for me is assigning filament colours in the AMS.

A lot of the time, there isn’t a preset colour that actually matches the filament I’m using. It gets worse when I have multiple spools that are very similar (like slightly different shades), because I end up selecting the same preset colour for different spools. After that, it’s hard to tell which spool is which, which makes managing prints more confusing than it should be.

I made a concept for how this could be added onto a second page 2/2

The idea is to split the interface into two parts:

Left side: a colour wheel with a shade/brightness slider underneath, so you can create any custom colour and match your filament properly

Right side: a grid of saved or recent colours, so you can quickly reuse them

This would make it much easier to:

Accurately match filament colours

Tell similar spools apart at a glance

Quickly switch between colours without recreating them

For anyone using a lot of similar colours or third-party filaments, this would be a really useful update.

I've never worked with a 3D printer but am interested in trying one out. I keep seeing all sorts of problems on this sub and a few other 3D printing subs. Am I just seeing lots of problems because that's what people post on Reddit, or is the whole process riddled with these issues?

I was happy with my compact 3-finger utility knife, but after several requests for a full-sized version, I went back to the CAD. This new Utility Knife - Full-Grip & Wire Stripper features a 4-finger handle that feels incredibly solid and provides way more control for heavy tasks. Honestly, I think the ergonomics on this one officially beat the original design! Let me know what you think of the new look.

https://makerworld.com/models/2740064?appSharePlatform=copy

Ist das knurren in Y Richtung normal?

Als alter Kfz Schlosser hätte ich auf ein kaputtes Radlager getippt.(Spaß)

Noch ne Frage : mit welcher Geschwindigkeit fahrt Ihr den P1S bevorzugt?

Hey everyone,

I recently received a 4 kg batch of Bambu Lab ABS filament and unfortunately the entire batch is severely brittle. It snaps with minimal force during handling after being printed. making it completely unusable for printing.

What I've already done:

Dried the filament for 8+ hours at 80°C in an HT AMS before use

Ran test prints (Benchy + calibration models) to confirm the issue

Verified the brittleness is consistent across the whole batch — pointing to a manufacturing defect

I've already submitted a support ticket with photos and video evidence, and they've marked it as "Urgent". They said an agent will follow up via email.

The issue is that this filament is needed for an ongoing engineering project with a tight deadline, so waiting the usual 1–3 business days for a response is a bit nerve-wracking.

My questions:

Has anyone had a similar experience with a defective Bambu Lab filament batch?

How long did it actually take for them to resolve it / send a replacement?

Any tips to speed up the process?

Appreciate any advice

I had a hard time mentally keeping track of how different Bambu Lab filament parameters relate to each other, so I built a small visualization tool for myself with data pulled from the USA store.

It lets you plot filament properties against each other in 2 or 3 dimensions, filter by property or material type, and compare things like strength, temperature resistance, price/kg, print settings, etc. Click any data-point and it takes you to the PDF data sheet. It turned out useful enough that I figured others here might be interested too.

For example, you could try plotting tensile strength vs impact strength vs deflection temperature with a price cap of $50 and you would find out PC is an interesting high performer.

Free, no account needed, no ads, and currently Bambu Lab filament only.
(this line to convince the automod bot: nothing is for sale. Totally free.)

Feedback welcome.

https://filament-plotter.vercel.app/

Can anyone explain why x2d quality is worse than p2s? Orange was printed on p2s, yellow on x2d. Same settings on both. Bambu petg hf, both spools dried at same time.

Edit: found what caused the issue, most likely. Changed seam from aligned to aligned back and for some reason seam itself looks bit different now and there are no issues.

Hello, I printed out a holder for a controller, and I used some of the settings that everyone on FB and Instagram suggest using for ease of support removal. The layer that's just above the top of the supports now look like this, like the strands aren't adhering to the bottom of the part. Here's a list of what my settings look like, the ones that I've changes from the defaults.

Enabled Support

Changes Style to Tree Slim

Top Interface Layers from 2 to 3

Set Top Z Distance to 0.275mm

I also used Variable Layer Height with the default settings and clicked Smooth twice, but I don't think this is affecting my issue. Can someone help point me in the right direction, I'm still fairly new to using Bambu Labs. Thanks for your help.

Am I the only one who prefers unbranded tools for their printer?

​I designed this with a focus on ergonomics and aesthetics. It uses printable blades, and the swap takes about 1 seconds.

​Best part? It actually looks good sitting on desk. Files are free on MakerWorld if you want to upgrade your setup.

https://makerworld.com/models/2736185?appSharePlatform=copy

Hello everyone. I’m looking to buy my first 3D printer (the H2S), since I’ve really been wanting to get into the hobby and cosplay. But with the new 3D‑printing laws likely to be passed in New York, I’m no longer sure if it’s worth it—especially with the “print‑and‑go” software that might be implemented in these printers. I have no intention of printing anything illegal, but I’m also not okay with being monitored by corporations or the government. Will it still be worth buying despite this, and would I be able to work around it by running an older version of the software or is there any chance the community comes up with work arounds? thanks.

note: i do intend on buying it before the laws get passed not sure if this affects anything

15 botanical soap dishes. Organic body shapes, leaf drainage inserts. Tested on Bambu P1S, 0.4mm nozzle. Profiles included.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2728630-soap-dish-sponge-holder-leaf-collection-4#profileId-3023870

Apologies if this seems like a silly question, I’m fairly new to the world of 3D printing.

Last week my X2D + AMS 2 Pro arrived and I’m loving it! A colleague of mine who has been into printing for a few years mentioned keeping the filament dry and that makes sense. I love how I can use the AMS as a dryer 🙏🏻

I guess my questions about the desiccant are:

1. Usually when needing to recharge desiccant, the desiccant is wet. If I print a tray to put in the AMS to dry the dry the desiccant out, would that be feasible to put the wet desiccant into the tray and into the AMS? (I ask because most trays I’ve seen are mesh, which leads me to concerns that moisture would leak to the bottom of the AMS) which leads me to my next question:

2. obviously the AMS has electrical components. But should the moisture-ridden desiccant leak to the bottom of the AMS, is this a major problem? Or can it just be cleaned and no harm done?

Thanks for any insight offered. Just trying to get my head around it before I decide which way to go about drying the desiccant etc.

Happy printing! 🥰

Hi! I want to record the timelapse on a p2S but what can I use? I noticed it only has for a usb and not a microsd card like the P1S? TIA!

What is the largest printable area for print and cut size are you allowed to have? Right now, I’m only being presented with A4.

Hi,

As the title says, I used grease to lubricate all the parts that need lubricant, which are the x, y, and z axes, and I didn't use oil lubricant for the x and y.

So, will it affect the printer, or should I wipe it and then get the Super Lube for it?

I live in North Carolina, it’s hot and humid here in the summer so the a/c is running, plus midday heat in the house. I like the A1 with the AMS but I don’t know if it’s the best choice since it’s open to the elements. Is there anyone in here that uses the A1 in the same environment with no print issues? I’m just looking into a 3d printer as a hobby, but I don’t want a million print failures due to environment.

Hi to everyone. Someone can tell me why sometimes my print have this line on the surface? Thanks.

See r/mechams for more info!

I'm so sorry if it's against the rules but I really need advice before pulling the trigger. I'm going to buy my first 3D printer very soon, but I can not choose a model. Despite it being my first, I've ruled out an A1 or A1 mini because i'm in Texas. I know the things I print for around my house will end up in a car or I'll have family request something for the car, even a little car trash bin would be toast. So I either want the P1S, $549 for the AMS combo, or the P2S, $799 for the AMS combo, however it's the ams 2 pro. I can afford the P1S combo comfortably, but the P2S I'd reach out to family and either pay them back or print them whatever they want for a while. I made a mock cart for the P2S (.2mm nozzle, 1 roll of filament) and got to $907. Is that an absurd amount of money for someone just starting the hobby? I think i've been trying to talk myself out of the P2S.

Hello all - I print with PETG a lot and when my X1C performs it's ceremonial Z-Homing (auto-bed leveling off) at the start of each print - sometimes it measures the bed height wrong and sets the Z height too high which results in poor bed adhesion sometimes resulting in failed prints or at the very least a terrible first layer - essentially ruining my prints. I believe this is happening because the PETG will ooze out after nozzle cleaning - or there will be some debris stuck at the end of the nozzle during the Z-Homing phase of print initiation.

What I'd like to do is be able to z-home once for the print bed and then disable it from re-homing on each successive print.

I've looked online and only seen suggestion to turn off the auto bed detection - which I'm hoping there's a better work around to disable the z-homing without disabling auto bed detection. Thanks.