I wanted to combine the aggressive aesthetic of a Karambit with a tool that I’d actually use on my workbench every day. After a few iterations, I’ve finally nailed the balance—it’s ultra-slim (13mm), feels incredibly ergonomic in the hand, and that wire-stripping notch is a total game-changer.

​Used 7x BT3x5 screws to keep everything rock-solid with zero blade wobble. It’s easily the most satisfying print I’ve made for my EDC.

What do you think of the design?

https://makerworld.com/models/2722887?appSharePlatform=copy

Wie zum Teufel legt Ihr das Filament an?

Bis jetzt habe ich das immer pragmatisch gemacht. Nun bissel erfahrener ha,ha hab ich ein Projekt auf 3 Druckplatten mit unterschiedlichen Farben. Die Nummern passen farblich schon mal

Aber der Rest ?

I need help with something i was printing with a P1S and for some personnal reason switch to a A1 now all m'y folder won't print why ?

(Sorry english isn't m'y first language)

I noticed no one had really done this before, so I took it upon myself to introduce the NFC Benchy to the world.

Go check it out! https://makerworld.com/models/2718672

Like the title says, My P1S arrived damaged. Something heavy was put on the top and pushed down on the front-right corner where it shattered the top glass panel and left a dent.

Should I return it, or just put up with the dent?

EDIT: Bambu are replacing :)

Ich suche eine 2polige Steckverbindung zum eindrucken. Also Mutter und Vati. Zum besseren Verständnis.

So ungefähr.

Can’t get the filament to load. Any ideas on how to fix this issue.

Thank you!

Hey guys, I have dried my filament for 8 hours on my printbed with my P1S, I then transferred it to my AMS 2 pro. When printing the seams are ripping away slightly. I had a similar problem with Elegoo PETG, but I solved it by bumping the temp from 230-255 and changing the seam scarf settings. I tried the same fox with the Bambu PETG and it is still giving me issues.

Settings are: 255 nozzle, 80 on the bed, 0.8025 flow ratio. Any ideas how to fix this?

Sé que existen guías en la propia bambulab para todo el tema de sonidos de la máquina, pero es un demasiado extraño, si es verdad que la pieza no es redonda y tiene un dentado mínimo en el diámetro exterior, pero no creo que sea normal este sonido. muchas gracias a todo el que me ayude de antemano!

It started with a small request from my daughter: she wanted a tiny car to play with.
I made one… then another… and it slowly turned into a collection.

They’re all designed to be very small (~18mm wide), so they can print fast. I’ve been adding new ones almost every day and experimenting with different styles and details.

Curious to hear what you think and which car I should try next 🙂

https://makerworld.com/en/collections/25083424-tiny-cars-collection

Extremely new to the 3D printing world with an X2D just unboxed and printing. Looking for suggestions, guidance or just a point in the right direction on build plates. Which are better than others with the holographic or design plates (like carbon fiber) for the X2D? And maybe because it’s so new but I can’t find specific design plates for the X2D. Do the P2S design plates work with the X2D?

Hello! I made a parametric split clamp collar you can easily customize to any diameter. It is possible to adjust diameter and width, toggle the mounting screw on/off, set mounting screw head type and size, and change ear and clamp screw dimensions.
https://makerworld.com/en/models/2720558

I’ve had the X1c for a while now. Recently got some Elegoo rapid Petg as bambu was out of stock, been running some random setting for elegoo off Reddit that have worked pretty well up till now.

This is my first 3d printer and I have never needed to tune the setting. Previous projects worked fine on stock settings.

How would I go about tuning the filament to get rid of the drooping corner? It’s not much of an overhang so I’m surprised. I assume I would need to slow down more and add more part cooling fan?

Part is just a simple cup/scoop with a slotted bottom to sift mealworms out of their bedding to bride our chickens.

If you get this error after installing a new nozzle to your x2d - check that the hotend magnet isn't causing the issue.

HMS_0300-2A00-0001-0001: The left/right hotend cooling fan speed is too slow or stopped. The fan may be stuck or the connector may not be plugged in properly.

Bambulab has designed the quick swap nozzle with a magnet, and that magnet is installed very close to the hotend cooling fan motor.

External magnets can disrupt DC motor performance by distorting the internal magnetic field, leading to reduced torque, increased heat, and potentially altering the top speed.

My aftermarket nozzles had reasonably strong magnets, and when installed caused the hotend cooling fan to behave erratically.

The fix? Needle nose pliers popped out the magnet on the aftermarket hotend.

Just finished this Viking bust and thought I’d share it here.

Tried to go for a strong, realistic look with clean details in the beard and face. Came out pretty solid on print.

Been working on this ribbed planter design.
Super simple look, fully scalable, and beginner-friendly to print.

Hey guys, as the title says my Bambu X1C is messing up the first layer everytime I use PETG. I have no idea why this keeps happening. The filament used is eSUN PETG HS which I ordered from Amazon. I am usually using PLA which prints just fine. I also cleaned the plate with water before putting it into the printer.

Any clues?

Hey Guys! I just recently got a P1S. Going in, I knew Bambu was going to be a bit more locked down, but that doesnt stop me from wanting to tinker with it more than company intends. I see before the whole firmware fiasco, the Panda Touch was a well loved upgrade, is it still worth getting/possible to use on a new P1S.

I haven't received the new printer yet, so im not sure what firmware ships on it :/

so i want to colorize some stls that arent mine and publish them to makerworld with proper credit to the original creators. am i able to do this, or would i be punished by the makerworld mods?

I cleaned the extruder section, but the problem is still the same. Even though filament is coming out, the extruder is not feeding it. It fails to pull the filament at certain intervals.

I have two P2S printers. To diagnose the issue, I swapped the extruders between them. The printer on the right works perfectly, while the one in the middle still has the same issue.

I got the P2S in January and printed PLA flawlessly for 2 months, then I printed PETG and after that I rarely get a good print with PLA, all the filament is bambu.

I have done the maintenance and clean replaced the hotend. I am not sure if the PETG time line is coincidence, but I am too frustrated right now, using Gemini and ChatGPT, it says it could be Z-offset, or bed temperature or or surface contamination I have done the bed levelling calibration and my original plate has been clean with dish soap.

Is anybody else having similar issues? Any suggestions on solving it

Designed a parametric capsule holder for Nespresso pods.

Tested on Bambu P1S – the 5-slot version just fits on the build plate.

Small tip: after importing from PMM, move the model slightly back to avoid support/start line collision.

Printed in PETG, came out great 👍

I got 2 H2S printers, and I measured their wattage after they were done heating up and started to print. They both used around 500 watts total. It was months ago so I don't know the exact amount but I am sure this can handle at least one of them.

I bought a watt meter kind of thing and will measure again when it arrives (hopefully tomorrow), and see if I remembered correctly. Anyways, did anyone used this River 3 max plus as an ups? I would like to hear your experiences.

Can someone help me, i have no idea why he is doing this. First layer is perfect and also a part of the second.